https://www.retro-gression.com/catego...cogs-lockrings

I guess I should go with the All City cogs as they are built to be "quite", however does it really differ much from the others or am I just throwing money away?

if you want quiet, go EAI

and no you aren't throwing money away

Quiet comes from a lot of factors, a cog with one chain can be quiet, but throw on a different chain and it may be loud. But sound does not mean anything about quality. Just ask Chris King hubs.

The All-City cog is a very very nice cog. You will not be disappointed if you get one. I am a really big fan of the DA cogs, and they are a little cheaper. But you cannot get them in 18 or 19.

Sweet.

Can you please explain to me what I'm gaining over a cheaper cog? Am I only buying the EAI becuase of the noise, lasts longer, maybe lighter?

@Kayce:

What do you mean by, "throw on another and it may be loud"? 2 chains, what?

I have the basic steel cog there and it is quiet and does the job just fine

I ment a different brand of chain, hopefully the edit makes it more clear. The whole system has to work together to be quiet, and sound does not matter at all with quality.

Why are you so concerned that your drivetine be soundless?

I believe cheaper cogs have a greater chance of not beeing perfectly round, as for how quiet they are, my bike with a 19T EAI cog is a lot quieter then my bike with a 17T All-City cog, but one's 3/32 and the other's 1/8 and that might have something to do with how quiet it is.

Is that a bad thing? I'd rather hear the sounds of the city or nature as opposed to my bike.

Also, I have a KMC Z410 chain which, according to KMC and my LBS, is supposed to be quite.

One more question:

I have a few large washers laying around that could help me get a straight chain line. Do I really need to buy a spacer, or should the washers suffice?

Making a choice based on sound is like picking what you want to eat because it fits the plate. Sure it makes a difference, but there are lots of things to think of first.



Whoa, lets back up for a second now. What kind of wheel do you have? Why do you need spacers/ washers?

Quiet.

The 410 is a pretty regular chain noise wise, nothing special. I've found the SRAM PC-1 to be quieter on my All-City and EighthInch cogs.

Lubrication and wear seem to matter more though. After a few hundred miles and with appropriate lubrication your drive train should be silent anyway. Assuming all the parts are the same over the course of those few hundred miles.

I'm not putting sound first, but it is important to me.

I have an SRAM Omnium (48T AL-7075-T6 chainring) on my Fuji Track Pro (Non chain stay issue model) with Deep V's. I can't remember what cog I have now, but if I could move it out just a few mms, my chainline would be straight.

Noisy drivetrain is annoying. I can totally understand the desire for a silent drivetrain on ss/fg bike.

1. Don't put spacers behind your cog.

2. A chainline being off by two mm will matter just as much as your shoes being two mm bigger. Would you notice? No.

3. Ride your bike.

What? Isn't that where spacers are supposed to go?

It's off so much It's pretty noisy and the chain is rubbing against my current cog/chainring.

I'm also not the most familiar with metric. My chainline is off a bit over 1/10 an inch, maybe 1/15th.

There is no such thing as a fixed cog spacer.

Take a picture, or be really detailed in what you are talking about when you say "the chain is rubbing against my current cog/chainring"

Alright. I'm going out to dinner now, but I'll be back with a picture in a few hours.

Thanks for all the help!

You should also realize that your frame is just a damned noisy one and that it is never going to be silent.

This.

You *can* use a BB spacer behind your cog but this should only be done in the extremely rare situation of your cog itself being too thin for your lockring to make contact with it when everything is tightened properly. I've seen it once in my life - on a Formula hub/old Surly cog - where a 1mm spacer was needed to fill a gap and make everything work as it should.

BB spacers should not be used to adjust chainline.

I've had both the Z410 and Z710 Kool, and the Z710 was muuuuuch quieter.

Pics would be great. If your chainline is 1/10" off, then you need to move your chainring inward -- get a shorter bottom bracket, or move the chainring to the inside of the crank spider if you're using a double crank.

Another thought: did you put the cog on backward?

1/10" isn't something I'd ever worry about.

So its off between 2.5mm and 1.5mm...

dude, just ride the bike.

there's another thread going where a few guys got excited 'bout modding a crescent wrench into a low-cost lockring spanner that is just as effective as a high priced version that some want to sell here.

i can only hope the info to save money on cogs (which i consider to be a consumable) that i am about to offer receives as good a reception...

just so y'all are aware, i don't avoid potholes, i do bump curbs, & just a bit of stair & platform jumping, not to mention that i probably ride more miles than 90% of the posters here. i use cheap cogs & my drive train has been silent & trouble free with these...

https://www.amazon.com/REDLINE-Steel-.../dp/B001BY5KAE

https://www.cswestbikes.com/servlet/t...xed-cog/Detail

https://www.bikeworldusa.us/AVENIR-TR...B003BC3EAW.htm

couple weeks ago i found a relatively inexpensive surly cog in the tooth count i wanted for cheap & despite some recent attacks on surly cogs here, i went for it. so far, 400+mi & it works, my drivetrain is still silent & i could not be happier with it...



so op... i guess the point of my post is...yeah, cogs are different...some are more over-priced than others...

markaitch, that's absolutely ridiculous.

It was a pair of channel locks, not a crescent wrench.