Sram s100
#3
I have it, crank is decent, the bottom bracket is where my issues lie. the first one went to **** like 4 months after the install. Replaced it and the new one has been flawless since. The bb is also a lil on the heavy side too. If I could go back I'd go S300 for a lighter and probably more reliable bb design.
#5
Cranks are pretty much cranks. As long as the length is ok, the chainline isn't jacked, and there's nothing defective about your stock crankset, you aren't going to see a significant improvement going from one cheap crank to another. Stick with what you've got until you can affort something substantially better.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 926
Likes: 0
From: central Ohio
Bikes: Schwinn Madison, Windsor Dover
Cranks are pretty much cranks. As long as the length is ok, the chainline isn't jacked, and there's nothing defective about your stock crankset, you aren't going to see a significant improvement going from one cheap crank to another. Stick with what you've got until you can affort something substantially better.
#9
I would spend more than $80 if there was a good reason to. I mainly want something that feels solid and will last. My current set up is far from it.
The more money I can save, the more parts I can upgrade.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,948
Likes: 400
From: PHL
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
Buy nice or buy twice. Save a little more and get a substantial upgrade if the cranks really bother you. I use the S300s, and am highly satisfied with them.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
i have no experience with the s100 but i am having no problems with my s300's i paid 115 + shipping for them. They feel solid i havent had any issues with the BB that came with them. I am happy i spent the extra money for them.
#13
As for not feeling solid...how do you know it has anything to do with your cranks? What you could be describing could be related to a loose cog, poorly tensioned chain, poorly tensioned spokes, a flexy frame, flexy fork, among other things. Crank flex is generally minor compared to other areas in a bicycle that flex.
Furthermore, cheap cranks are cheap because they have a cruder finish and are made of more material, and are thus heavier than expensive cranks. You aren't likely to add stiffness by buying a lighter crankset.
#14
Cheep steel frames can flex in the bottom bracket area under load, and cheap chain rings will feel, for a lack of a better word, sloppy. Those two are much more likely to be your issue. Chainring is something that is an easy upgrade, that will feel much better right away. And if you combine that with a new BB you will feel great.
#16
Cheep steel frames can flex in the bottom bracket area under load, and cheap chain rings will feel, for a lack of a better word, sloppy. Those two are much more likely to be your issue. Chainring is something that is an easy upgrade, that will feel much better right away. And if you combine that with a new BB you will feel great.
#17
If the crank doesn't spin smoothly, then you need a new bottom bracket, not a new crank.
As for not feeling solid...how do you know it has anything to do with your cranks? What you could be describing could be related to a loose cog, poorly tensioned chain, poorly tensioned spokes, a flexy frame, flexy fork, among other things. Crank flex is generally minor compared to other areas in a bicycle that flex.
Furthermore, cheap cranks are cheap because they have a cruder finish and are made of more material, and are thus heavier than expensive cranks. You aren't likely to add stiffness by buying a lighter crankset.
As for not feeling solid...how do you know it has anything to do with your cranks? What you could be describing could be related to a loose cog, poorly tensioned chain, poorly tensioned spokes, a flexy frame, flexy fork, among other things. Crank flex is generally minor compared to other areas in a bicycle that flex.
Furthermore, cheap cranks are cheap because they have a cruder finish and are made of more material, and are thus heavier than expensive cranks. You aren't likely to add stiffness by buying a lighter crankset.
As in solid, I am speaking more to the quality than the flex. They seem very cheap. By cheap I mean they feel brittle compared to higher quality cranks.
The bike is about a month old. I started noticing problems around the crank/BB area about a week after I got it. Everything else feels fine elsewhere on the bike.
#18
We win all charity rides
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,369
Likes: 0
From: Central Michigan University/ GR, MI
Bikes: BMX, fixed gear
Last edited by Street rider; 09-06-12 at 10:47 AM.
#19
Banned
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 588
Likes: 1
From: A1A
btw...what kind of bike?
#20
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
For those saying "save up and buy once" "wait and buy a better model and not an entry level"...What would you suggest then? We have already heard about the 300, but besides that model what do others suggest besides the regular omniums that everybody has?
#21
We win all charity rides
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,369
Likes: 0
From: Central Michigan University/ GR, MI
Bikes: BMX, fixed gear
Dura Ace, Duh. What else is there?
#24
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,948
Likes: 400
From: PHL
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
Andel and their many rebrandings would be a good choice. IRD makes a nice affordable crank as well. Miche is on the higher end of the price bracket but also a nice crankset.
#25
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
My All City cranks have treated me great.








