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-   -   Fixed Cog Issue's (https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/854357-fixed-cog-issues.html)

fixedSprint 10-25-12 07:05 AM

Fixed Cog Issue's
 
Hello,

I recently purchased a fixed gear bike. I been having problems with the lock ring coming loose when trying to learn to skid to a stop. i was wondering if it is a faulty part issue, a install issue, or am i trying to hard to stop and the pressure i am forcing on the cog is breaking it loose. I have taken it back to the bike shop and they had tightened it down once before. They said bring it back if i am still having problems. Well it came loose a second time now, i am wondering if i should recommend using lock-tite? Or should i stop trying to so hard to stop, i have this preception that i need to force the pedals hard backwards to stop, or do i need to relax. I have even tried on grass and the cog still came loose. If i could get some ideas from u guys that would be great

Thank you

Bat56 10-25-12 07:08 AM

Your bike shop sucks apparently. I'm sorry.

You don't need loctite. You need lockring.

fixedSprint 10-25-12 07:10 AM

Do i need a new lockring? because the one i have sucks. I do have a lock ring though

Bat56 10-25-12 07:17 AM

Is this in fact a fixed gear hub, with the threads on the lockring reversed?

The lockring and cog should not be coming loose together. If you are superman you might be able to rip is all apart and strip it, but coming loose is odd.

fixedSprint 10-25-12 07:24 AM

Yes, the cog goes clockwise and the fix ring goes counter-clockwise. i feel the same way, i know i strong but i am not that strong. i thinking a faulty lock ring or possibly(hopefully not) a stripped hub?

markaitch 10-25-12 07:35 AM

invest a few bux - buy a chainwhip & lockring tool so that you can take care of this yourself...

Scrodzilla 10-25-12 07:36 AM

As Bat said, you bike shop sucks. The cog needs to be tightened properly before tightening the lockring.

Stop skidding and get it fixed before you ruin your hub (if you haven't already).

fixedSprint 10-25-12 07:52 AM

will do! thanks u guys. but i am trying to hard to skid or should it be easier. i promise not skid untill i am confindent that my cog is properly installed

ddeadserious 10-25-12 08:03 AM

plz promise not skid u hurt ur hub mayb

fixedSprint 10-25-12 08:13 AM

where do u guys recommend purchasing a chain whip tool?

Jared. 10-25-12 08:23 AM

Someplace other than the shop that can't tighten it down.

Any LBS should have said tools, or order online. There are a ton of reputable sites to order from.

spinerguy 10-25-12 11:09 AM

There's a bunch of Performance bikes stores all over town, I like these because they have most tools in stock without having to wait a week for backorders.

Make sure you buy 1/8" whip, the 3/32" looks identical but is meant for cassettes.

If I were you, I'd just rotafix the cog and possibly invest in a better locking and get done with it.

fixedSprint 10-25-12 12:25 PM


Originally Posted by spinerguy (Post 14879046)
There's a bunch of Performance bikes stores all over town, I like these because they have most tools in stock without having to wait a week for backorders.

Make sure you buy 1/8" whip, the 3/32" looks identical but is meant for cassettes.

If I were you, I'd just rotafix the cog and possibly invest in a better locking and get done with it.


Excuse my newb question, but is rotafix a cog brand name or a procedure that i should perform? Thanks

Nagrom_ 10-25-12 12:34 PM


Originally Posted by fixedSprint (Post 14879351)
Excuse my newb question, but is rotafix a cog brand name or a procedure that i should perform? Thanks

It is neither.

Bat56 10-25-12 12:43 PM

It's the brand name of a procedure.

Wendell F 10-25-12 12:54 PM


Originally Posted by fixedSprint (Post 14879351)
Excuse my newb question, but is rotafix a cog brand name or a procedure that i should perform? Thanks

Rotafix is a procedure. Look it up on the youtubes. Should you perform it? Maybe on the fly if you don't feel like carrying a chain hhwhip but it doesn't tighten the lock ring. Stop skidding, go to a bike shop that doesn't suck and make sure your hub isn't stripped. Then buy a chain whip and lock ring tool, learn to use them, tighten everything, ride uphill, tighten everything, rinse and repeat. I know all this from experience having hamfistedly tightened a cog and stripped my hub.

caloso 10-25-12 12:56 PM

Did anyone mention getting some brakes while you're at the shop?

carleton 10-25-12 01:00 PM

A dura ace lockring is around $10-15. Much cheaper than a new hub + labor or new wheel. Maybe try that first.

tgscordv6 10-25-12 01:17 PM

Are the threads stripped?

And which Chicago bike shop was this?

fixedSprint 10-25-12 01:24 PM


Originally Posted by Nagrom_ (Post 14879394)
It is neither.


I enjoy having a good sense of humor, thats to good.

fixedSprint 10-25-12 01:26 PM


Originally Posted by tgscordv6 (Post 14879562)
Are the threads stripped?

And which Chicago bike shop was this?


I won't name any names, but they have been pretty good to me.
Don't know yet if the threads stripped.

Scrodzilla 10-25-12 01:33 PM


Originally Posted by fixedSprint (Post 14879601)
I won't name any names, but they have been pretty good to me.

Yeah, sounds like it.

Bat56 10-25-12 02:51 PM


Originally Posted by fixedSprint (Post 14879601)
I won't name any names, but they have been pretty good to me.
Don't know yet if the threads stripped.

Confirm the latter to dispel the former.

fixedSprint 10-25-12 03:36 PM

Will let u guys knows

chas58 10-26-12 09:42 AM

Agree with the above comments.

Just so you know what is going on (assuming no damage to your hub mentioned above):
If the cog is not properly tightened on install, it will tighten itself up more as you ride it. When this happens the lock ring is no longer tight against the hub, allowing for the cog to tighten and loosen when you accelerate and brake. Eventually this will cause your lock ring to come loose (it already was loose, but it will become more noticeable) and will ruin the threads on your hub for the lock ring. At that point the hub is only good for the freewheel side (assuming you have a flip/flop)


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