Oh it's quite alright, I guess that's what I get for actually riding an $80 bike. I've been planning on replacing it anyways, this crankset is horrible.

The saddle is definitely solid. My butt is a little sore after spending all day in it, but for the price I think it's an excellent saddle, plus it's quite light too.

Not very related, but interestingly enough, I went to the mall and when I got back to my bike to unlock it I saw another fixed gear with the exact same bars and saddle as me a bike rack over.

Couldn't pass up this deal. Here's my beater...

I changed up the stem, pedals, and saddle (which I boofed the angle on). Took forever to de-sticker all the warning labels and then added some of my own.

Mine has a little play in the front hub bearing I can't get out but not noticeable when you ride.

Nice photos!

Is it parked in the middle of the bridge in the hope that someone will run over it?

I like the optical confusion of the kickstand (!) being UP.

No body trackstand.

That frame must be a lot lighter than the one I saw in my Target.

For a crankset to "jiggle a couple of centimeters" it would have to be falling off, but seeing as you say that it is apparent when you're trying to slow down, I wonder if the problem you're experiencing is in fact a loose lock ring and you are destroying the threading on your hub.

I like it! What's the saddle you've got on there?

On the wheel? Unless there's a hub around the BB that I don't know about, then no. I've seen the BB it's self jiggle, which is what's causing the crankset to jiggle. It's actually not moving that much at all, maybe a centimeter at most, but it does get amplified due to slack in my chain that it's causing.

Your BB shell is 6.8cm wide by just over 3cm diameter, and you say the BB is moving by about 1cm?

[QUOTE=Cappuccino;15371669]I like it! What's the saddle you've got on there?

Tioga Spyder

Can't find one under $119 in stores. Thanks a lot New Jersey

They're back to $120 up here too. Must have been a model year clearance without changing for the new year.

Unless you count the price of new tires and saddles and brakes as many have applied here to these bikes to make them safe and rideable. Then, a good used bike off Craigslist may be a viable option here.

To be honest, I don't know exactly what is moving on it, but it looks like the square taper thingie that's holding the crank arms. Also, the right crank arm is now moving about 2 mm. Not freely wiggling 2mm, but if I press down on it hard with one hand, it'll move about 2, but not any further.

Also, I tried a couple skids last week and my 3rd one the lockring popped off. I had someone at one of my LBS tighten it, so I know it was on there pretty well. I stuck a wrench in there and hammered it back on, but I've gotta get this figured out. No brakes, unreliable lockring, wiggly crankset, I'm riding a deathtrap right now. I'm not riding it on anything more then calm trails for now.

Does it have bearings in the BB? May be a QC issue. If there's any Q to C, that is.

Went on a ride today, didn't get half a mile before I tried a skid on a really gravely path, barely put any backpressure on my pedals and my lockring pops off. Went to a LBS and figured out the hub's pretty much toast. Time for a new rear wheel, I guess. Thanks Targetbama.

Also, asked about the wiggly crankset, the guy helping me told me it was prolly something with the bearings in the BB, so if I tighten the BB lockring it should be ok. Still wanna replace that crankset, I can see the crank arms bending a couple inches every time I put pressure on 'em.

As for a rear wheel, would a B43 laced to a Formula be good for hektik skidz?

I was trying to tell you something

Ah, I see.
Did you mean the jiggling was a problem with the lockring and not the crankset?

Because.

Um.

I could see the crankset jiggling when I had my bike flipped and upside down and moving the cog, not only when riding it, and my rear cog wasn't moving at all. I could feel it more while riding, but only because of the extra chainslack it and the maybe not-so-very-round-chainring caused.

Unless you're saying the jiggling crankset was destroying my hub.

Also, my lbs dude totally assured me it was my BB bearings, and not a very serious problem.

I was confused with your initial description of a couple of centimeters of play in the BB, this would not be rideable.
The BB play and the loose lockring are separate problems.
The dead zone between pedaling forwards and resisting is a classic symptom of a loose lockring and a very common problem for new fixed gear owners, many of whom find this out by trashing a hub.

If anyone still cares, I got the play/wiggle out of the chainring by tightening something in the BB, but now my damned crank arms are moving. Like, I can move the left crankarm and the right one will move along with it. They're moving around an inch or two, just back and forth, this is what I must've been the play I was feeling when I was slowing down. Oddly, the chainring isn't moving at all, so I'm assuming it's directly connected to the BB, while the crankarms are all by themselves having a party, wiggling around and making me feel uneasy.
My rear wheel's still trash, so I still need to get a new one of those, which really has me kinda of pissed off since I haven't ridden my bike in a while due to that.

I have no idea what you mean.

In addition to a new hub, you need a new BB. This "bargain" is getting less and less and bargain.

Oh, I was planning on changing the cranks out anyways, they're horrible. I just like complaining about bits on my bike. Also, I got this bike because I wanted a bike and not just because it was on sale. As for the hub, to hell with changing that out, why would I bother fixing a $10 wheel? I bought a new wheel today, double wall Alex Rims, and it still manages to be lighter then the single wall stock wheel.

they had two of these at goodwill the other day for $199 a piece..