What separates one fixed gear bicycle from another?
#1
What separates one fixed gear bicycle from another?
Okay, so I know this is kind of a broad question - but I'd like to hear your guys opinions on this...
Obviously the quality of the materials and components is what separates a $200 fixie from (lets say)a $2500 - but to what extent? How much is the actual performance of the bicycle effected. In terms of everyday street use?(commuting, excessive, pleasure)
Aesthetics aside - What are the "biggest" things to do right when considering building a bike. If you were going to do a conversion, or order everything separately and build it yourself - what are the things that you wouldn't skimp out or go cheap on?
Quality hub + wheelset? Steel frame? Both come to mind as the 2 majors on a platform as basic as a fixed gear bicycle.
The reason I ask is - I've been riding around on my fixed gear for about a year an a half now - and it's completely rekindled my love of being on a bike. Now I find myself wanting to tinker more and more and maybe even take on a conversion project. I'm trying to get some insight on what things are the most important to you guys to get right ride quality. I find it particularly interesting for fixed gear bikes because there is such a limited amount of main parts involved with them. What are the areas where you can make the most "bang for your buck" performance upgrades?
My knowledge is very limited(before owning what many of you would consider a crappy fixed gear, I hadn't ridden in a decade and before that it was wal*mart Mongoose BMX'ers ) but I'm surprised how much of a difference a nice set of properly inflated tires makes. Aside from that I just try to not ride bikes that are a lot nicer than mine so I wont realize what I'm missing out on.
Obviously the quality of the materials and components is what separates a $200 fixie from (lets say)a $2500 - but to what extent? How much is the actual performance of the bicycle effected. In terms of everyday street use?(commuting, excessive, pleasure)
Aesthetics aside - What are the "biggest" things to do right when considering building a bike. If you were going to do a conversion, or order everything separately and build it yourself - what are the things that you wouldn't skimp out or go cheap on?
Quality hub + wheelset? Steel frame? Both come to mind as the 2 majors on a platform as basic as a fixed gear bicycle.
The reason I ask is - I've been riding around on my fixed gear for about a year an a half now - and it's completely rekindled my love of being on a bike. Now I find myself wanting to tinker more and more and maybe even take on a conversion project. I'm trying to get some insight on what things are the most important to you guys to get right ride quality. I find it particularly interesting for fixed gear bikes because there is such a limited amount of main parts involved with them. What are the areas where you can make the most "bang for your buck" performance upgrades?
My knowledge is very limited(before owning what many of you would consider a crappy fixed gear, I hadn't ridden in a decade and before that it was wal*mart Mongoose BMX'ers ) but I'm surprised how much of a difference a nice set of properly inflated tires makes. Aside from that I just try to not ride bikes that are a lot nicer than mine so I wont realize what I'm missing out on.
Last edited by SSbalt; 02-26-13 at 11:39 PM.
#2
in order from most to least important in terms of ride quality(for me at least, most will agree more or less):
1. saddle
2. wheelset
3. tires
4. bars/pedals (in terms of comfort)
5. frame
6. everything else doesn't matter
1. saddle
2. wheelset
3. tires
4. bars/pedals (in terms of comfort)
5. frame
6. everything else doesn't matter
#3
Makes sense to me... My ass hates every saddle I've tried thus far... Guess I should lay off the cheap ones.
#4
Grumpy Old Bugga
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,229
Likes: 9
From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Bikes: Hillbrick, Malvern Star Oppy S2, Europa (R.I.P.)
The components are important but how the whole bike tugs at your heart is the most important.
#5
Grumpy Old Bugga
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,229
Likes: 9
From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Bikes: Hillbrick, Malvern Star Oppy S2, Europa (R.I.P.)
#6
#7
Also, great thread, SSbalt! Along with the link to the fit calculator, this post could help a lot of noobs if it turns into a good conversation.
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
From: Durham NC
Bikes: Kilo TT, Felt z85, Kona Unit 2-9, 90s Schwinn 9.3 with Noleen fork
Maybe if I had a quill stem I would entertain the idea - wouldn't look right on my current steed. I have to lock my bike up in some questionable areas and I don't want anybody ripping my seat off. I'm going for more of that beater "not worth sawing the U-lock off to steal me" aesthetic


if it's the latter then they have tools with them, too, and you may as well go full china syndrome meltdown on locking it up, because they'll take your wheels and anything else they like with no issue.
#10
Brooks are just like any other saddle. If you dont find it comfortable within a fair "getting used to it" period then you should look for something else. Breaking in a leather saddle just makes a good saddle better.
#11
Grumpy Old Bugga
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,229
Likes: 9
From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Bikes: Hillbrick, Malvern Star Oppy S2, Europa (R.I.P.)
Spot on. There is a lot of rubbish posted about Brooks saddles on the internet. Yes, they can be hard out of the box but have you felt any of the modern saddles? All four Brooks that I've owned, 3x B17 and 1 B52, were comfortable out of the box and just kept getting better, just like a good quality pair of shoes. If you ride your bike more than 2km to the coffee shop, you won't even notice the break in period.
#12
Banned.
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,287
Likes: 837
Ever ridden an aluminum fork? Yuck.
#13
Get off my lawn!


Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 6,035
Likes: 119
From: The Garden State
Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman
+1 Several 17's, Flyer, Swift & Swallow........good outa the box, better with age.
#15
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,264
Likes: 15
1) Fit (had a beautiful lugged steel Italian conversion that didnt' fit and had to sell)
2) Tires (big difference in comfort and rolling resistance can make or break)
3) Drivetrain feel (a smooth drive train feels good no matter what level of components)
4) Wheelset (weight and smoothness)
5) Everything else
Saddle wise, I struggled with a Brooks for a year and ended up going back to a $20 WTB Rocket V that I remember liking on my mtn bike. Much better for me.
2) Tires (big difference in comfort and rolling resistance can make or break)
3) Drivetrain feel (a smooth drive train feels good no matter what level of components)
4) Wheelset (weight and smoothness)
5) Everything else
Saddle wise, I struggled with a Brooks for a year and ended up going back to a $20 WTB Rocket V that I remember liking on my mtn bike. Much better for me.
#18
Just smang it.
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,295
Likes: 1
From: Bellingham
Bikes: Felt F1X, Kilo WT, Dawes Deadeye
#20
Spot on. There is a lot of rubbish posted about Brooks saddles on the internet. Yes, they can be hard out of the box but have you felt any of the modern saddles? All four Brooks that I've owned, 3x B17 and 1 B52, were comfortable out of the box and just kept getting better, just like a good quality pair of shoes. If you ride your bike more than 2km to the coffee shop, you won't even notice the break in period.
#21
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
From: Hawthorne NJ
Bikes: Surly LHT, Wabi Special, All City Big Block, 1933 Iver Johnson Mobicycle, Giant TCR Advanced
I will agree that the saddle is the most important part of the bike. I love my brooks saddle.
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
From: VA -> IN
Bikes: ones with two wheels
i guess the single speed and fixed gear section is such a serious place, people must not dare utter responses that are not 100% serious.
#24
Still kicking.


Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 47
From: Annandale, New Jersey
Bikes: Bike Count: Rising.
Spot on. There is a lot of rubbish posted about Brooks saddles on the internet. Yes, they can be hard out of the box but have you felt any of the modern saddles? All four Brooks that I've owned, 3x B17 and 1 B52, were comfortable out of the box and just kept getting better, just like a good quality pair of shoes. If you ride your bike more than 2km to the coffee shop, you won't even notice the break in period.
The top three of my list is likely going to be a bit different from the rest.
1: Geometry/fit
2: Intended use
3: Ease of maintenance
4: Wheels
5: Headset
6: Saddle
7: Drivetrain
8: Crankset
9: Bottle Cages
I wouldn't consider tires to be in the running. Tires are easily replaceable outside of tubular. Outside of the custom build/highend track, they really won't come with a competent set of tires.
__________________
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
Appreciate the old bikes more than the new.
Last edited by Dannihilator; 02-27-13 at 10:44 PM.
#25




