Is there a certain type of torque wrench I need if I have a carbon seatpost, saddle rails, and drop bars? I'm having my lbs install the components but will probably want to adjust on my own after some riding. Can anyone recommend anything?

Something small like the Park TW-5, which goes to 15 Nm. Beam type wrenches are easier for home use because you don't have to think about them going out of calibration as much as click type wrenches.

https://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-m...p-00931423000P

If the lowest rating is above 5Nm, I don't think a torque wrench is necessary for a few adjustments. Just don't be paranoid about making sure it's tight enough, and don't tighten it as much as you can with the long arm of the hex key.

I don't think a whole torque wrench is necessary just because you own a few carbon components. The Ritchey Torque Key is a great piece to have though.

A lot of people don't have a good feel for proper torque. I've seen quite a few customers with cracked/crushed handlebars and seatposts from over-tightening. This is obviously more of a problem with super-light crap, like my co-workers Crank Bros. seatpost that snapped in half while riding. I recommend using a torque wrench.

I borrowed a 30-150 inch pound wrench last week and ended up buying one because I realized I have a tendency to under-torque things that look a little fragile. I've always had the Craftsmen 75 ft lb beam wrench for the heavy stuff, but never had anything lighter for the small stuff. A 30-150 inlb, made in the USA, Sturtevant Richmont, pro quality wrench set me back about $150.

https://www.westernbikeworks.com/prod...-torque-wrench


These come in 4 5 and 6 nm. Pick and choose the ones you need to torque your components. Cheaper than a variable torque wrench set but in the long run a decent wrench may make sense for you.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=60766

Love mine! Best value IMO, it comes with Hex keys 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10 and T25 torx and the range is awesome 2-14Nm.

This big dummy crushed a carbon seatpost by not using a torque wrench. And I certainly know better. I bought a small one that goes down to 5 nm from Harbor Freight. I already have a torx and allen bit set so that didn't cost extra.

I highly recommend getting some Tacx Carbon Prep (AKA Tacx Dynamic Carbon Bicycle Assembly Compound) available at LBSs or Amazon. It prevents the carbon parts from sticking and also keeps things like seatposts from slipping.

Like me. I never would have guessed how little tightening would be required for a stem or seatpost clamp.

My thinking is if I'm able to afford Thomson stuff, why wouldn't I make the investment to torque it correctly? Cycling can easily be a rich man's game, that's just a fact.

I've only used cheapo Harbor Freight torque wrenches (on sale most of the time for under $20). No mishaps to-date. One I use most frequently is rated 20-200 in/lbs.

I work on bikes, and this wrench has served me very well. (It's the same as Pedro's)

https://www.pro-bikegear.com/publish/content/pro_2010/nl/en/index/products/tools/diverse_tools.-productCode-PR100340.html

Thanks for all the suggestions. Ill probably go with a cheaper one as I don't see myself using it very often; maybe the park tw1 or 2....

That said, where can I find the torque limit for the seatpost? I know for the saddle rails it is 3.5Nm from reading the provided instructions, but can't find any info on the post. Would that be found from the seatpost specs or from the frames seat tube? It's a super pista if that makes any difference.

Thanks again.

Usually its on the clamp.

For you guys in doubt. PRO = Shimano

Same here. Better than nothing, and cheap Get a GOOD set of 3/8" hex drivers (no ball end, get square end) and a 1/4" to 3/8" adaptor

Nah, they do that regardless of tourque.

I opted for a Mariposa... just under 2 bills but very precise and calibration is free for the life of the tool. People pay me to fix their bicycles and not to break them so for this and liability issues torque wrenches are essential, especially with carbon fibre parts.

It is small enough that it can be carried quite easily in a pocket

Free calibration is a sweet deal. First I've hear of any tool manufactures doing that.

I second this! We have these in the shop, and I keep one in my bag. It's great. The only downside is no ratcheting head, but it does keep the head a lot smaller.