My first build (newb)
#1
My first build (newb)
#3
Look through this: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/510358-Fixed-Gear-Single-Speed-Start-Here! first and then come back for specific questions. As for rust see here first: https://bit.ly/14GtS8R
#4
Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Easy conversion: pull the derailleurs (you have semi-horizontal dropouts), swap on a single speed (BMX) freewheel and chain, and pick which sprocket you want. I'd suggest swapping out the rear axle with one that can accept track nuts. Otherwise you'll want to stuff the axle as far as possible into the dropout and clamp the QR down hard.
For the rust, it depends on how bad it is (pictures might help). If it isn't wide spread, I'd probably get a cheap ($10-$15) quart of touch up paint matched by a local store. Sand the area down (you have thick tubing) and carefully blend it in with a small brush. If the rust is all over the place, it isn't really worth trying to save. The Varsity, Collegiate, and Continental were not exceptional bikes to start with, and time has not done anything for them. Still, I think they are interesting pieces of American cycling history, made in Chicago by a unique manufacturing process ("electro-forging").
Don't start making hipster cuts on that frame (removing the cable stays). Chances are you'll either find out SS is not for you or you'll get hooked and want something lighter and nicer riding. Either way, the Schwinn makes a better novelty 10 speed than a serious SS/FG bike. Most of the components are at least decent quality - those not made in the US are Japanese or Swiss, no Chinese crap.
Bottom line: don't drop serious money into it, just make it safe and have fun.
For the rust, it depends on how bad it is (pictures might help). If it isn't wide spread, I'd probably get a cheap ($10-$15) quart of touch up paint matched by a local store. Sand the area down (you have thick tubing) and carefully blend it in with a small brush. If the rust is all over the place, it isn't really worth trying to save. The Varsity, Collegiate, and Continental were not exceptional bikes to start with, and time has not done anything for them. Still, I think they are interesting pieces of American cycling history, made in Chicago by a unique manufacturing process ("electro-forging").
Don't start making hipster cuts on that frame (removing the cable stays). Chances are you'll either find out SS is not for you or you'll get hooked and want something lighter and nicer riding. Either way, the Schwinn makes a better novelty 10 speed than a serious SS/FG bike. Most of the components are at least decent quality - those not made in the US are Japanese or Swiss, no Chinese crap.
Bottom line: don't drop serious money into it, just make it safe and have fun.
#5
Easy conversion: pull the derailleurs (you have semi-horizontal dropouts), swap on a single speed (BMX) freewheel and chain, and pick which sprocket you want. I'd suggest swapping out the rear axle with one that can accept track nuts. Otherwise you'll want to stuff the axle as far as possible into the dropout and clamp the QR down hard.
For the rust, it depends on how bad it is (pictures might help). If it isn't wide spread, I'd probably get a cheap ($10-$15) quart of touch up paint matched by a local store. Sand the area down (you have thick tubing) and carefully blend it in with a small brush. If the rust is all over the place, it isn't really worth trying to save. The Varsity, Collegiate, and Continental were not exceptional bikes to start with, and time has not done anything for them. Still, I think they are interesting pieces of American cycling history, made in Chicago by a unique manufacturing process ("electro-forging").
Don't start making hipster cuts on that frame (removing the cable stays). Chances are you'll either find out SS is not for you or you'll get hooked and want something lighter and nicer riding. Either way, the Schwinn makes a better novelty 10 speed than a serious SS/FG bike. Most of the components are at least decent quality - those not made in the US are Japanese or Swiss, no Chinese crap.
Bottom line: don't drop serious money into it, just make it safe and have fun.
For the rust, it depends on how bad it is (pictures might help). If it isn't wide spread, I'd probably get a cheap ($10-$15) quart of touch up paint matched by a local store. Sand the area down (you have thick tubing) and carefully blend it in with a small brush. If the rust is all over the place, it isn't really worth trying to save. The Varsity, Collegiate, and Continental were not exceptional bikes to start with, and time has not done anything for them. Still, I think they are interesting pieces of American cycling history, made in Chicago by a unique manufacturing process ("electro-forging").
Don't start making hipster cuts on that frame (removing the cable stays). Chances are you'll either find out SS is not for you or you'll get hooked and want something lighter and nicer riding. Either way, the Schwinn makes a better novelty 10 speed than a serious SS/FG bike. Most of the components are at least decent quality - those not made in the US are Japanese or Swiss, no Chinese crap.
Bottom line: don't drop serious money into it, just make it safe and have fun.
#6
Depending on how cheap of CL deals you can find in your area, I'd say new wheels are the easiest way to go, lacing a new hub+ spokes + labor is going to cost about the same as you can find a generic normal set of wheels.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,828
Likes: 2
From: West Georgia
Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter
#10
gregjones is right. Depending on how stuck it is the process can last a while and you need to just keep at it.
#11
Grumpy Old Bugga
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,229
Likes: 9
From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Bikes: Hillbrick, Malvern Star Oppy S2, Europa (R.I.P.)
I don't know the Schwinn Varsity (never got them here) so I might be well wide of the mark, but sometimes, when you pull all the heavy components off a cheap bike, you're left with a pretty reasonable frame.
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: born in DC, . . . . . . . . . . . raised in MD, living in the OC. . .
Bikes: TREK 2300 carbon Frame|-&-|LEADER 735T
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,828
Likes: 2
From: West Georgia
Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter
#14
Full Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 330
Likes: 10
From: Pepperell MA
Bikes: 2014 Specialized Allez, Trek Farley, Trek Crockett, Deluxe Team dirt jump BMX, SE Draft, S&M ATF, S&M L.A.M.F., S&M PBR, BSD TrailOrPark, SE Vans PK Ripper
Good buy though for $20. It's pretty much a bullet proof frame but like everyone is saying build it on the cheap. You can get a BMX crankset that will fit if you want the 3 piece look or just stick with a one peice. If the wheels are not overly rusty or out of true just keep them and put new tires,tubes, and a single speed freewheel on them.
#15
Your cog is slipping.



Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
Likes: 100
From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
But yeah, those frames weigh a metric **** ton.
#16
Yeah crazy heavy even after removing some of the stuff. It's like the down stem is stick in the fork from being there for so many yeaRs. Trying to keep it cheap as possible so I can go on short rides with my girlfriend on her cruiser cause she loves the outdoors. Plenty of flat trails. What do you guys think of me repainting the frame. I like to do everything my self unless i need someone else who knows a lot about bikes. can I use the same sprocket ?
#17
Idk why they are upside down its cause I'm on my iPad but I just finished my conversion to single speed. Just got new tires, tube, and chain. Just ordered new bar tape. Its Just my commuter and I love it so far even though its kind of heavy. Had no idea what I was doing but learned through videos and just doing it. It's smooth and does the job
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