So I got my Kilo TT. Assembly was easy until I got to the brake cable. I have a rear break. I assume I'll just have to cut and adjust the length. Am I right? The other issue is that the "braces" that are supposed to hold the cable against the frame is too small. They don't fit on the top tube but fit on the seat tube.

Go to your lbs, get a longer recessed but so that you can your break up front.
that will be safer, and you won't have to put those stupid clips on your bike.

brake

Dunno what clips you've got for the cables but if you can't make them work, just use zip ties (you might know them as cable ties).

Set up and adjust your brake, THEN cut the excess cable, leaving about 2". Crimp on one of them cable end covers to stop the cable unraveling - you can get then from a bike shop and cost stuff all, don't panic if you have to buy a packet of them, that way you'll be tempted to always use one.

BTW, as mentioned above, it's BRAKE and yes, people care.

rear brake is highly overrated. (if your riding fixed)

So move the rear brakes to the front? Are rear brakes dangerous on a fixie?

yes, reer bikes are fixed on dangerously

Wrong.

Yea I was thinking what if you are going down hill and lose your pedal grips? A front brake would be a really bad idea at that moment.

No, but not having a front brake on any bike is very dangerous.

So I noticed moving the brake to the front would require me to have a longer "recessed bolt"? Is that what's it called and where can I find one?

Well, first you have to see if the brake caliper mounting bolt is long enough to pass through the front of the fork crown so that the recessed nut can reach it. If it doesn't, then you will need to buy a front brake caliper that has a longer pivot bolt. If the rear brake pivot is long enough, then you need to get a longer recessed nut at you lbs or online such as here >>> https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...71&category=34

Thanks, so if I was to only have one brake it's best to have it as the front right? But optimally it would be best to have both brakes right?

The front brake provides up to 80% of the total stopping power when braking to the maximum. If you are riding with a fixed cog and you have proper foot retention and you learn how to backpedal when stopping, then a rear brake becomes redundant, but it doesn't hurt to have one. The argument against having a rear brake when riding fixed is that it's easier to lock up the rear wheel with a brake than by backpedalling and once you lock up the rear wheel and start to skid the bike slows down less and becomes more difficult to control. If you don't plan on back pedalling or using foot retention, then by all means keep a rear brake on it.

yes, two brakes is best in general, but most fixed riders don't run a back brake IMO. i'm being gentle (for this forum) because a lot of others are taking the piss cos they've been there, done that. two brakes'd be great, but if you are riding it fixed, not singlespeed freewheel (in which case you NEED two brakes), you can "leg brake" the back wheel, but you still want a front brake. if this is your first fixed-gear, you won't be putting much energy into leg-braking, because it feels funny.... which is why maybe having two brakes is a good idea. once you get it(resisting the pedals, hopefully with foot retention so you can pull on the front foot), you can get by with just a front brake. to run the supplied back brake up front, you will likely need a longer sleeve nut to grab the stud on the caliper. hope this helps.

Thanks guys. I kept the rear brakes since I do not have a larger recessed to switch it out to the front. I just went for a test ride and noticed some things and would like to ask for your inputs.

1. My wrist began to hurt when I grabbed the straight part immediately in front of me (mainly because that's where I installed my brakes) The problem went away when I shift my hands slightly to the side so it's more of a side grip.
2. My upper back aches from just 10 minutes of riding. Could this just be because I'm new to biking?
3. I had a lot of trouble getting my foot into the buckle (I was wearing Sperrys).
4. Using the pedal to brake was difficult for quick stops. You guys mentioned foot retention, is that pulling back on the pedal against the buckle rather than trying to pedal backwards?
5. When I feet are in the buckles and I lose balance, the buckles become really dangerous =(

We need to see you on the bike to get an idea of how the fit is.
Time and practice.

Had to upload from cellphone so kinda small. I can't take a pic of myself on it until much later. I went by the heel rule. My leg is straight when I push down with heel and slightly bent when pushing forward with the balls of my feet. Also my feet barely touch the floor. Will try to post a picture with me on it later.

Sounds like the saddle is at a good height - you won't be able to put your feet on the ground while sitting on the saddle, maybe pointed toes.

While it's true that a properly set up bike shouldn't hurt, your body has to get used to cycling and that process does hurt so in the early days, it can be hard to tell if something is hurting because of poor setup, poor components or poor fitness, sometimes a combination, sometimes all three. Best tip is to make friends with your lbs and ask them because bike fitting can only be effectively done in person.

I think we need to talk about that cable routing.

Should I give it more space in the front?

Try reading this,
https://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html
then do it again.

2. Probably.

3. the single strap attach point on the toe clips will make the straps into a triangle, not oval, shape. that is hard to get into. to say nothing of the fixed gear inherent "flip the pedal and get in, but only when the pedal is at a point in the pedal stroke that will let you" nature.

5. yes, you need to learn to get out of the straps probably moreso than how to get in.

4. yes, quick stops will be very very hard. you can modulate your speed by resisting (called "pace pedaling" or "leg braking") but it takes leg strength and bike control (probably more important) to do one of these (youtube em):
-skip (hop the back wheel, lock legs while wheel is in air, so you get a second of locked wheel to slow you down)
-skid (what it sounds like) or
-"whip" skid (get the back wheel out of line with the front)

...to shed speed.

GET A FRONT BRAKE for safety, and then practice practice practice and you can do some of the other fixed gear "brakeless" or "sorta brakeless" techniques (I have front brake, I really don't like to use it, but I sure as hell do if I have to.)

you will find that descending a hill after climbing a hill will turn your legs into jelly, because you have to spin out those same tired muscles down the hill as up, so you may be compleeeetely unable to do any kind of leg braking. this is why you want a rim brake.


this is all part of why I got a fixed gear (new skills to learn) but it takes time. look at it as a challenge.

Thanks for the detailed explanations. I think I will keep my rear brakes for now. I'm not entirely comfortable with pedal braking yet and still depend on the brakes. I think having front brakes right away will make the learning process harder.

Also I took really long setting up the cable because it and its housing was really hard to cut. Any suggestions on a good wire cutter or another option?

You need to get a front brake and learn how to use it before ending up having an accident because you can't stop fast enough with the rear brake only.

Wire cutters are not meant for cutting cable housing or even brake cable. You need something like this:


Unfortunately, they are quite pricey, so I'd recommend you just have you LBS do it. At the same time, have them install a front brake.