Cannondale capo
#26
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 13
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From: Aurora IL
I've rode the bike once...... Haven't made any adjustments, I did quite a bit of research and the frame should fit me, the seats in the position of when I bought it stop jumping to conclusions that I'm not big enough for the frame. Also looked online its a 62cm frame which converts to 23.6 inches and that says inside of leg should be 91 cm which converts to 35.8 inseam which mine is 35
#27
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 13
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From: Aurora IL
Well instead of crying about "my frames screwed blah blah blah" I called up a buddy of mine who is a professional welder and he said he can weld aluminum. Gave him my frame 2 days later he welded it and said everything went really well the aluminum cooperated and he said it should be nearly as strong as it was new. Sure now my bike doesn't look as sleek but I really only care about function. I also repacked the crank bearings with grease and cleaned everything no more creaks and rides like a dream. I also spray painted over the welds and the paint blended really well. This is how you have a can do attitude instead of cry and be set back by a tiny crack in a frame.
Untitled by foundation982, on Flickr

Untitled by foundation982, on Flickr
Untitled by foundation982, on Flickr
Untitled by foundation982, on Flickr
#30
Cause that's the material that's making it structurally sound.
#32
It looks TIG welded and if it was welded correctly then the heat penetrated the material and created a bond all the way through and can be ground flat. I hope that bead isnt just sitting on top of the tube or the guy who welded it needs to go back to welding school
#33
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 53
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The advice isn't good, not to say it's sh****.
It's obvious, that singlespd neither went to welding school for the theoretical part, nor did he ever weld any aluminum alloys.
I recommend to weld some aluminum with TIG or MIG and get some hands-on experience before giving dangerous advice and talking about other's welding school.
Aluminum welds are almost always "softer" than the material before welding.
Cannondale uses 6061 for most of their frames.
Originally Posted by Wikipedia
6061 is highly weldable, for example using tungsten inert gas welding (TIG) or metal inert gas welding (MIG). Typically, after welding, the properties near the weld are those of 6061-O, a loss of strength of around 80%. The material can be re-heat-treated to restore -T4 or -T6 temper for the whole piece. After welding, the material can naturally age and restore some of its strength as well. Nevertheless, the Alcoa Structural Handbook recommends the design strength of the material adjacent to the weld to be taken as 11,000 psi without proper heat treatment after the weld.
#35
Don't do that! 
The advice isn't good, not to say it's sh****.
It's obvious, that singlespd neither went to welding school for the theoretical part, nor did he ever weld any aluminum alloys.
I recommend to weld some aluminum with TIG or MIG and get some hands-on experience before giving dangerous advice and talking about other's welding school.
Aluminum welds are almost always "softer" than the material before welding.
Cannondale uses 6061 for most of their frames.

The advice isn't good, not to say it's sh****.
It's obvious, that singlespd neither went to welding school for the theoretical part, nor did he ever weld any aluminum alloys.
I recommend to weld some aluminum with TIG or MIG and get some hands-on experience before giving dangerous advice and talking about other's welding school.
Aluminum welds are almost always "softer" than the material before welding.
Cannondale uses 6061 for most of their frames.
#36
I guess we should ask the OP if the guy who welded it knew how to fix bike frames and did he drill the crack on both ends to keep the material from cracking more. Did he then grind a valley along the crack for the filler rod to pool and penetrate and did the welder use the correct filler rod for the type of aluminum used in the frame? Was it heat treated? We dont know. If everything was done correctly then I dont see any reason why it cant be ground down. Its up to the OP to decide if he want to take a chance
#38
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Joined: Aug 2011
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I guess we should ask the OP if the guy who welded it knew how to fix bike frames and
- did he drill the crack on both ends to keep the material from cracking more.
- Did he then grind a valley along the crack for the filler rod to pool and penetrate
- and did the welder use the correct filler rod for the type of aluminum used in the frame?
- Was it heat treated? We dont know.
1. valid
2. frame tubing is only 0.085", not much to grind
3. if you want do to 4. then 4043 is pretty much your only choice
4. I know. And you could also know if you read the books. Heat treatment for T6 is one hour at 980F and another one at 500F.
How will the paint look after that?




Exactly!
It's up to you to learn the lesson and to stop giving dangerous advice.
#39
#40
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 64
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From: West Hartford, CT
Bikes: Windsor the Hour, Cannondale Capo, Cannondale Synapse Carbon, Cannondale Super X
Maybe you can get the crack welded, but what else is wrong with the bike? Got carbon forks? (I own a newer Capo which came with carbon forks.) You can't necessarily see damage to the forks. The frame crack makes the rest of the bike suspect. Creaky BB? I paid $250 for the frame with forks new. Buy a new frame and forks, take anything decent off the Capo you bought, and take your lumps.
#41
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 13
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From: Aurora IL
it was TIG welded, he told me he could grind it flat but it wouldn't be as strong. He said he got good penetration and it went a lot smoother than he anticipated. So I took his advice and told him I'd rather it be sturdy than look good.








