bananasmoothie

So I was messing around in a grass field and I still can't manage to skid. I just want to be able to do it for funzies. Is it because my gearing is way too high? I think I'm rocking a 48 crank and a 16t rear. I'm 120 lbs.

seau grateau

Gear down and harden up.

bananasmoothie

Thats what I figured. I'm assuming clipless pedals will help too once I get those on. I guess I'll order a 17 and 18 rear cog and see what I like.

willpay

do you have toe clips, or straps or clip ins? if your just putting your feet on the pedal unattached your only using half of your strength, plus your foot might just slip off. Use straps or clips, when you lock one foot, use your opposite foot and pull up. this will help to stop the back wheel. Also shift your weight forward and get out of your saddle. if your sitting down, all of your weight is on the back wheel making it harder to stop. Don't bike in a grass field, ride on cement or pavement.

Leukybear 

Step 1: proper foot retention, cog and lockring tightened down properly.
Step 2: Ballz to stem

bananasmoothie

Right now I have no foot retention system installed. I have spd style clipless pedals and shoes in my room, just no tools to install them yet. I was off the seat, not quite balls on stem. And I don't bike in grass usually, I just read to try skidding in grass since its easier than pavement.

Thanks for the replies everyone. Looks like I need to install my clipless pedals.

willpay

you don't need to go exactly balls to stem. That method is really extreme. (and sometimes painful). But the basic idea is to shift your weight forward by any amount. Keeping all your weight on your saddle (and thus your back wheel) only makes it harder. aWhat size tires are you riding? typically the skinnier the tire, the easier to skid. I ride 23's. Its easier to skid than my old 27's.

operigovoltou

lift the whole rear of the bicycle up.... learn to skip to my lou first


skidding does you no good qnyhow

jlafitte 

All of the above, plus hose down a section of sidewalk in front of your house and use that to practice

bones_mcbones

19 brah, more skid patches.

Also, wet grass.

Nagrom_

The second half of the first reply was the most correct.

fixied_gear_max

I got my first fixie; a Mercier Kilo TT a few weeks ago. I had the same problem you're having. The trick to it is you gotta lock your knees. Try skip stopping before skidding. Happy riding!

fixied_gear_max

O yeah, and if you don't have cages or straps, it's near impossible skidding without them. I would recommend Toshi double straps and All-City plastic cages. Go with the Larges if you're a size 9 or higher and an XL if you're 11 or higher.

gregjones

Yeah, that.

Scrodzilla

What's wrong with Toshis and AC doubles? I'm running that setup on my Leader and really like it.

johnnytheboy

it's a solid setup. what's so funny?

gregjones

Nothing.

sinikl

Part of this is a timing thing. you want to try to lock legs before you actually want them to lock. You should end up locking legs with your cranks more or less level (9 and 3 oclock) but need to start resisting sooner than that. For me, it worked to think "lock up" when my front foot (which would become the back foot) was around 5 oclock. Dominant leg back works best for most people. Pull up on the front foot, too, can't emphasize that enough.

The thing that's a b* is that if you "miss" and don't get it locked up, you better right away get back to pedaling or the bike is gonna throw you around a lot. Be willing to pedal if you miss.

What complicates it is having to move your body weight forward (at first, til you get more leg strength and can just pop off the saddle a bit to skid). All those movements (lock up, throw weight forward, did I get it, oh crap I have to keep pedaling nuts-to-stem??) is a real trick.

It really is true that the faster you go, the easier it is, but that puts a premium on being able to lock up at a higher cadence (tho on 48x16 you could be going "fast enough" on a slow cadence if you hump the stem). The faster you pedal, the sooner you have to think about locking up (say, 3 oclock on your future-back-foot, instead of 5)

It will eventually become second nature after a WHILE.

Learn to skip first, I cannot emphasize that enough if you are actually trying to slow down.

seau grateau

Can't believe how helpful the replies have been in this thread.

bmontgomery87

I've been riding for about 3 weeks and have had the same issue.
I'm 46:16. would going to 46:18 help with skidding and slowing down with my legs? I'm thinking it would also help with the last few miles of my commute that has a bit of an incline
(I'm still running a brake and don't really plan on stopping that, but I like being able to dictate speed with my legs.)

prooftheory

yup.

bmontgomery87

thank you. ordering a cog this weekend.

IAmSam

The problem with that combo is that it gives you very few skid patches - try 17t or 19t cog

fixied_gear_max

Part of this is a timing thing. you want to try to lock legs before you actually want them to lock. You should end up locking legs with your cranks more or less level (9 and 3 oclock) but need to start resisting sooner than that. For me, it worked to think "lock up" when my front foot (which would become the back foot) was around 5 oclock. Dominant leg back works best for most people. Pull up on the front foot, too, can't emphasize that enough.

SO RIGHT BRO

HK2K13

Most complete reply on this thread.