Can't skid
#1
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Joined: Sep 2013
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Can't skid
So I was messing around in a grass field and I still can't manage to skid. I just want to be able to do it for funzies. Is it because my gearing is way too high? I think I'm rocking a 48 crank and a 16t rear. I'm 120 lbs.
#4
do you have toe clips, or straps or clip ins? if your just putting your feet on the pedal unattached your only using half of your strength, plus your foot might just slip off. Use straps or clips, when you lock one foot, use your opposite foot and pull up. this will help to stop the back wheel. Also shift your weight forward and get out of your saddle. if your sitting down, all of your weight is on the back wheel making it harder to stop. Don't bike in a grass field, ride on cement or pavement.
#6
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do you have toe clips, or straps or clip ins? if your just putting your feet on the pedal unattached your only using half of your strength, plus your foot might just slip off. Use straps or clips, when you lock one foot, use your opposite foot and pull up. this will help to stop the back wheel. Also shift your weight forward and get out of your saddle. if your sitting down, all of your weight is on the back wheel making it harder to stop. Don't bike in a grass field, ride on cement or pavement.
Thanks for the replies everyone. Looks like I need to install my clipless pedals.
#7
you don't need to go exactly balls to stem. That method is really extreme. (and sometimes painful). But the basic idea is to shift your weight forward by any amount. Keeping all your weight on your saddle (and thus your back wheel) only makes it harder. aWhat size tires are you riding? typically the skinnier the tire, the easier to skid. I ride 23's. Its easier to skid than my old 27's.
#10
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From: Winnipeg
Bikes: Fiori Fixie powder blue w/ granny bars
#12
n00b... im getting better
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: minneapolis
Bikes: Mercier Kilo TT, Fuji Sports 12 (vintage), Fuji-Fixie conversion, WTP bmx
I got my first fixie; a Mercier Kilo TT a few weeks ago. I had the same problem you're having. The trick to it is you gotta lock your knees. Try skip stopping before skidding. Happy riding!
#13
n00b... im getting better
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: minneapolis
Bikes: Mercier Kilo TT, Fuji Sports 12 (vintage), Fuji-Fixie conversion, WTP bmx
O yeah, and if you don't have cages or straps, it's near impossible skidding without them. I would recommend Toshi double straps and All-City plastic cages. Go with the Larges if you're a size 9 or higher and an XL if you're 11 or higher.
#18
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From: Durham NC
Bikes: Kilo TT, Felt z85, Kona Unit 2-9, 90s Schwinn 9.3 with Noleen fork
Part of this is a timing thing. you want to try to lock legs before you actually want them to lock. You should end up locking legs with your cranks more or less level (9 and 3 oclock) but need to start resisting sooner than that. For me, it worked to think "lock up" when my front foot (which would become the back foot) was around 5 oclock. Dominant leg back works best for most people. Pull up on the front foot, too, can't emphasize that enough.
The thing that's a b* is that if you "miss" and don't get it locked up, you better right away get back to pedaling or the bike is gonna throw you around a lot. Be willing to pedal if you miss.
What complicates it is having to move your body weight forward (at first, til you get more leg strength and can just pop off the saddle a bit to skid). All those movements (lock up, throw weight forward, did I get it, oh crap I have to keep pedaling nuts-to-stem??) is a real trick.
It really is true that the faster you go, the easier it is, but that puts a premium on being able to lock up at a higher cadence (tho on 48x16 you could be going "fast enough" on a slow cadence if you hump the stem). The faster you pedal, the sooner you have to think about locking up (say, 3 oclock on your future-back-foot, instead of 5)
It will eventually become second nature after a WHILE.
Learn to skip first, I cannot emphasize that enough if you are actually trying to slow down.
The thing that's a b* is that if you "miss" and don't get it locked up, you better right away get back to pedaling or the bike is gonna throw you around a lot. Be willing to pedal if you miss.
What complicates it is having to move your body weight forward (at first, til you get more leg strength and can just pop off the saddle a bit to skid). All those movements (lock up, throw weight forward, did I get it, oh crap I have to keep pedaling nuts-to-stem??) is a real trick.
It really is true that the faster you go, the easier it is, but that puts a premium on being able to lock up at a higher cadence (tho on 48x16 you could be going "fast enough" on a slow cadence if you hump the stem). The faster you pedal, the sooner you have to think about locking up (say, 3 oclock on your future-back-foot, instead of 5)
It will eventually become second nature after a WHILE.
Learn to skip first, I cannot emphasize that enough if you are actually trying to slow down.
#20
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From: Roanoke, Va
Bikes: 2013 leader 721. 2015 leader 725. 2012 fuji feather
I've been riding for about 3 weeks and have had the same issue.
I'm 46:16. would going to 46:18 help with skidding and slowing down with my legs? I'm thinking it would also help with the last few miles of my commute that has a bit of an incline
(I'm still running a brake and don't really plan on stopping that, but I like being able to dictate speed with my legs.)
I'm 46:16. would going to 46:18 help with skidding and slowing down with my legs? I'm thinking it would also help with the last few miles of my commute that has a bit of an incline
(I'm still running a brake and don't really plan on stopping that, but I like being able to dictate speed with my legs.)
#23
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#24
n00b... im getting better
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: minneapolis
Bikes: Mercier Kilo TT, Fuji Sports 12 (vintage), Fuji-Fixie conversion, WTP bmx
Part of this is a timing thing. you want to try to lock legs before you actually want them to lock. You should end up locking legs with your cranks more or less level (9 and 3 oclock) but need to start resisting sooner than that. For me, it worked to think "lock up" when my front foot (which would become the back foot) was around 5 oclock. Dominant leg back works best for most people. Pull up on the front foot, too, can't emphasize that enough.
SO RIGHT BRO
SO RIGHT BRO
#25
Part of this is a timing thing. you want to try to lock legs before you actually want them to lock. You should end up locking legs with your cranks more or less level (9 and 3 oclock) but need to start resisting sooner than that. For me, it worked to think "lock up" when my front foot (which would become the back foot) was around 5 oclock. Dominant leg back works best for most people. Pull up on the front foot, too, can't emphasize that enough.
The thing that's a b* is that if you "miss" and don't get it locked up, you better right away get back to pedaling or the bike is gonna throw you around a lot. Be willing to pedal if you miss.
What complicates it is having to move your body weight forward (at first, til you get more leg strength and can just pop off the saddle a bit to skid). All those movements (lock up, throw weight forward, did I get it, oh crap I have to keep pedaling nuts-to-stem??) is a real trick.
It really is true that the faster you go, the easier it is, but that puts a premium on being able to lock up at a higher cadence (tho on 48x16 you could be going "fast enough" on a slow cadence if you hump the stem). The faster you pedal, the sooner you have to think about locking up (say, 3 oclock on your future-back-foot, instead of 5)
It will eventually become second nature after a WHILE.
Learn to skip first, I cannot emphasize that enough if you are actually trying to slow down.
The thing that's a b* is that if you "miss" and don't get it locked up, you better right away get back to pedaling or the bike is gonna throw you around a lot. Be willing to pedal if you miss.
What complicates it is having to move your body weight forward (at first, til you get more leg strength and can just pop off the saddle a bit to skid). All those movements (lock up, throw weight forward, did I get it, oh crap I have to keep pedaling nuts-to-stem??) is a real trick.
It really is true that the faster you go, the easier it is, but that puts a premium on being able to lock up at a higher cadence (tho on 48x16 you could be going "fast enough" on a slow cadence if you hump the stem). The faster you pedal, the sooner you have to think about locking up (say, 3 oclock on your future-back-foot, instead of 5)
It will eventually become second nature after a WHILE.
Learn to skip first, I cannot emphasize that enough if you are actually trying to slow down.
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