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Schwinn Continental to fixed

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Schwinn Continental to fixed

Old 03-12-05 | 11:20 AM
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Schwinn Continental to fixed

hi need help. i just called on a bike for sale in the paper, its Schwinn Continental the guy want 60$ for
what i need to know is, will this work as a good conversion bike or should i keep shoping?
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Old 03-12-05 | 11:32 AM
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Bikes: Crust Romanceur, VO Polyvalent, Surly Steamroller, others?

What year? Assuming its one of the old Chicago Schwinn Continentals, its probably electroforged steel and weighs more than your car. If you don't mind weight, these are bombproof frames.
You also probably have to decide on whether or not you want to deal with a 1-pc crank (assuming it has one).
I would try to get a picture of the bike, or at least find out the year. You can do this to the month of manufacture if you have the serial number.
I had a 79 continental, heavy, tough, rode like a cadillac. Great commuter or beater frame.
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Old 03-12-05 | 11:35 AM
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the dude didnt know the year, i think im might go take a look maybe take a pic. thanx for your help
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Old 03-12-05 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ryan_c
What year? Assuming its one of the old Chicago Schwinn Continentals, its probably electroforged steel and weighs more than your car. If you don't mind weight, these are bombproof frames.
You also probably have to decide on whether or not you want to deal with a 1-pc crank (assuming it has one).
I would try to get a picture of the bike, or at least find out the year. You can do this to the month of manufacture if you have the serial number.
I had a 79 continental, heavy, tough, rode like a cadillac. Great commuter or beater frame.
Yeah, but it probably has a brazed on kickstand...! Can't find that on an Italian bike.

IMHO, the frameset is the only stuff worth keeping- and at that, it is heavy- from a relatively cheap 10-speed. You'll have so much upgrading, that you might be better off looking for a frameset for the same price. If you have no use for the wheels, bars, stem, post, it might not be worth it.

The year could really dictate whether or not it is worth it.

I picked up a Prologue frameset with headset for about the same cost. It is much lighter and has much better drop outs. Of course, I had wheels, post, bars, etc... already. It also had modern specs- 126 rear, normal BB threading, 700c wheels, etc.


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Old 03-12-05 | 11:56 AM
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cool thanx its almost time for the local police auction ,maybe ill wait
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Old 03-12-05 | 12:17 PM
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Bikes: Crust Romanceur, VO Polyvalent, Surly Steamroller, others?

Yeah, I would wait. Especially for $60. I got mine for $20 as a complete bike (although missing tires and with a bent spoke) at the local co-op. For $60 you should be able to find some decent lugged steel.
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Old 03-12-05 | 12:28 PM
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Bikes: 2005 Rocky Mountain ETSX, Surly Crosscheck, 2000 Enduro Expert (sold), 1999 Rockhopper, 1984 Trek 520 (STOLEN-but recovered!), $7 rigid MTB from a police auction (broken, then stolen)

"Schwinn...specialists in bikes with gears!"



Cool ad
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Old 03-12-05 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by enduro
"Schwinn...specialists in bikes with gears!"



Cool ad
Best of all, you can bake a pie in their huge spoke guards
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Old 03-12-05 | 01:20 PM
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ok well if im on the subject, what should i look for?
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Old 03-12-05 | 01:32 PM
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My suggestion: look at the lugs and drop outs. A nice frame will also have a tubing sticker, like Tange, Reynolds etc. If the drop outs are stamped (not forged), it is a cheap frame, probably made of gaspipe.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_dr-z.html (see drop outs)

Long, cast drop outs... and a top tube that fits. Many older frames were a bit taller than modern bikes, so you might find you have a little less standover. As long as my boys clear the TT, I only care about the TT distance.

If the frame has been stripped, it is nice to find one with a headset (if it is any good) and seatpost bolt (like a real one- not a hardware store special). If you need a brake or too, it is handy to still have the sleeves intact. Those details aren't deal breakers, but they can be a headache if they are missing.

Finally, when looking for something "vintage" it helps to have a serviceable fork. Depending on your frame size, it can be difficult finding a threaded fork that fits (these aren't the one-size fits all threadless forks of today)- and buying a used fork can cost as much as the frame.

That's my two cents.

I prefer a 126 rear spacing- since both my fixed gears have that and can share wheels. These frames are also the newest, and can generally be found in better shape. I also like 700C wheels... it is easier finding deals on tires and tubes in this size. Its your call what you want to do with a crank and crankset. I prefer using a new cheapo Shimano sealed square taper mtn bike BB, scrounging for a 130 BCD crank, and using a 3/32 road drivetrain. I like to be able to interchange parts between my bikes- mixing and matching cogs and rings.

Last edited by filtersweep; 03-12-05 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 03-12-05 | 02:23 PM
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thanx ,and so the search begins
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