Need info! plz help
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Bikes: 29er mongoose ss & Raleigh technium
Need info! plz help
I have recently purchased a Raleigh tehnium. Its missing the front wheel. I'd really like to do a fixie conversion to it but am unsure of what to do and how to do it.. Also.. I need some opinions on where to order parts from.. I need help truly identifying the specifics of the bike.. Thanks In Advance. 
If anyone can help with year,make,model,material, value, etc it would b awesome. Aslo post any lunks on fixoe conversions that might help

If anyone can help with year,make,model,material, value, etc it would b awesome. Aslo post any lunks on fixoe conversions that might help
#2
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 7
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From: CA, USA
Bikes: Lemond, Kestrel, Pedal Force, Simonetti, Gunnar Caylor, Bike Friday, etc
Based on the pics, I'd say the bike is mid-80's. I assume it has horizontal rear dropouts. Dropout spacing is probably 126mm. Should be easy to convert to fixed. Can't tell what crankset it has, but may be useable. The main thing is to acquire some wheels. It would be easier to purchase a rear wheel already set up for a fixed cog than try to re-dish the one you have. There are a lot on ebay to choose from. You have two choices for drivetrain parts (chain ring, chain, and cog): 3/32" or 1/8" width. 3/32 is basic road bike width, 1/8" is track. I have two fixed gear bikes, both with 1/8" (parts cost about the same, but are a little stronger and take longer to wear out). If the rear wheel comes with 120mm spacing, you may need to add spacers to make it fit your frame without putting stress on the rear triangle. This is VERY easy to do, and some wheel sellers will offer to include spacers if you put it in the notes. If you can use the crankset you already have (which is 3/32), remember that you can put a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" chainring, but not the other way around. SRAM PC-7x chain is 1/8" and comes with 3-piece master link. There are lots of others to choose from, but that's what I use. Another thing: keep at least one of your brakes, and if you buy new wheels, make sure you get some that have a braking surface (track wheels do NOT). It's a lot of info, but it's not all that complicated. I am sure there are people in your area who can help you. If there is a bike shop nearby, they can give you advice on what to do and how to do it. YouTube is a great resource, also. Good luck. Have fun. Stay safe.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,025
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From: Boston area
Bikes: 1984 Bridgestone 400 1985Univega nouevo sport 650b conversion 1993b'stone RBT 1985 Schwinn Tempo
Go to the C&V forum, I believe there's someone there who can tell you about Techniums. My advice is get a front wheel, overhaul the bike and ride it as is. Why do you want a fixie other than it's just cool at the moment? I was once helping at a bike drive for a local charity, and some one brought in a Colnago that had been turned into a fixie, the cable guides and derailleur hanger had been filed or cut off, destroying most of its value. A Technium isn't a Colnago,but still why chop it up? Why not just buy a fixed gear bike.
#4
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Here's a Technium fixed gear. Since this picture was taken I've painted the rims yellow.
I built the wheels myself using a Surly flip/flop hub. This bike started life as a mountain bike with 130 mm rear spacing 700c X 28 mm tires just fit. A ordinary reach 105 caliper brake happened to fit the front perfectly.
I'm not a C&V kind of guy. Some people just don't "get" the urge to mod.
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#5
Last edited by prooftheory; 01-08-14 at 02:12 PM.
#6
Have bike, will travel
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Lake Geneva, WI
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
Moved to S&F from General
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When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
#11
THE STUFFED


Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,671
Likes: 21
From: San Francisco, CA
Bikes: R. Sachs Simplicity; EAI Bareknuckle; Madone SLR9 Gen 8
Since you're "missing" the front wheel, here's a good opportunity to get a new/ proper track wheelset here:
https://www.velomine.com/
Then get the other odds and ends such as chain, lockring, tires, inner tubes, cog, lockring here:
retro-gression.com
Pretty much the lowest prices on the net @ both those sites; doesn't hurt to check amazon & ebay too.^
You'll need 1/8ths chain & cog. If you plan to keep the original crank, get 19T.
700C wheels.
https://www.velomine.com/
Then get the other odds and ends such as chain, lockring, tires, inner tubes, cog, lockring here:
retro-gression.com
Pretty much the lowest prices on the net @ both those sites; doesn't hurt to check amazon & ebay too.^
You'll need 1/8ths chain & cog. If you plan to keep the original crank, get 19T.
700C wheels.
#12
Grumpy Old Bugga
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,229
Likes: 9
From: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Bikes: Hillbrick, Malvern Star Oppy S2, Europa (R.I.P.)
#14
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Bikes: 29er mongoose ss & Raleigh technium
I did too. So loud my gf got mad.
More info... I bought it second hand from a guy inmy town. He said hr lost the wheel when he moved. No big deal. A wheel set at a site I checked out was about 85$ to answer other ?s. I'm not sire about converting. I'm mechanically inclined. And I wanted a challenge. And I prefer a fixie Because it forces me to work harder at getting places. And I apologize but what is c&v?
Biketourist60 thank you for the detailed info. And thank you to everyone else to the info provided
More info... I bought it second hand from a guy inmy town. He said hr lost the wheel when he moved. No big deal. A wheel set at a site I checked out was about 85$ to answer other ?s. I'm not sire about converting. I'm mechanically inclined. And I wanted a challenge. And I prefer a fixie Because it forces me to work harder at getting places. And I apologize but what is c&v?
Biketourist60 thank you for the detailed info. And thank you to everyone else to the info provided
#16
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Bikes: 29er mongoose ss & Raleigh technium
Europa, I'm sorry about the title to my first post. I am new to this sort of thing. And I'm very used to using shorthand. I will do my best to not let it happen again. Thanks for letting me know.
#17
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Bikes: 29er mongoose ss & Raleigh technium
#18
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Bikes: 29er mongoose ss & Raleigh technium
You'll need 1/8ths chain & cog. If you plan to keep the original crank, get 19T.
700C wheels.[/QUOTE]
With a 19t wheel gear what would my max estimated speed be if I left the original crankset on the bike? And how would that work if its a double or triple gear crank?
700C wheels.[/QUOTE]
With a 19t wheel gear what would my max estimated speed be if I left the original crankset on the bike? And how would that work if its a double or triple gear crank?
#19
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
Bikes: 29er mongoose ss & Raleigh technium
Based on the pics, I'd say the bike is mid-80's. I assume it has horizontal rear dropouts. Dropout spacing is probably 126mm. Should be easy to convert to fixed. Can't tell what crankset it has, but may be useable. The main thing is to acquire some wheels. It would be easier to purchase a rear wheel already set up for a fixed cog than try to re-dish the one you have. There are a lot on ebay to choose from. You have two choices for drivetrain parts (chain ring, chain, and cog): 3/32" or 1/8" width. 3/32 is basic road bike width, 1/8" is track. I have two fixed gear bikes, both with 1/8" (parts cost about the same, but are a little stronger and take longer to wear out). If the rear wheel comes with 120mm spacing, you may need to add spacers to make it fit your frame without putting stress on the rear triangle. This is VERY easy to do, and some wheel sellers will offer to include spacers if you put it in the notes. If you can use the crankset you already have (which is 3/32), remember that you can put a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" chainring, but not the other way around. SRAM PC-7x chain is 1/8" and comes with 3-piece master link. There are lots of others to choose from, but that's what I use. Another thing: keep at least one of your brakes, and if you buy new wheels, make sure you get some that have a braking surface (track wheels do NOT). It's a lot of info, but it's not all that complicated. I am sure there are people in your area who can help you. If there is a bike shop nearby, they can give you advice on what to do and how to do it. YouTube is a great resource, also. Good luck. Have fun. Stay safe.
#20
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 476
Likes: 1
From: NYC
Bikes: Schwinn World Sport Jamis Ventura
#21
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,584
Likes: 107
From: Scranton, PA, USA
Bikes: '77 Centurion "Pro Tour"; '67 Carlton "The Flyer"; 1984 Ross MTB (stored at parents' house)
The Technium was an aluminum tubed bike (main triangle only, I think) bonded to steel lugs with some kind of glue.
I'm not exactly sure about cold-setting a frame like this, so I'd measure the rear spacing carefully and get a wheelset whose over locknut dimension (OLD) matches that of the frame.
The inner chainring is probably something like 42 teeth. That'll match up pretty good with a 16T cog or thereabouts.
I'm not exactly sure about cold-setting a frame like this, so I'd measure the rear spacing carefully and get a wheelset whose over locknut dimension (OLD) matches that of the frame.
The inner chainring is probably something like 42 teeth. That'll match up pretty good with a 16T cog or thereabouts.
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,090
Likes: 14
From: Upstate NY
Bikes: CAAD 12, ROS 9+, and some others
I got wheels, cog, and crankset from one of my local bike shops for around $200. Conversion is pretty easy. The dropouts may be an issue depending on how vertical or horizontal they are. On my conversion frame they we're almost horizontal so tensioning the chain wasn't a problem. Bringing the bike to the shop I could fit the wheels to the frame before I bought them, no surprises.
#24
Zip tie Karen
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 7,005
Likes: 1,546
From: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100
Tvandel13,
The Techniums that I've seen have been well made, good riding low-mid level bikes. Yours should do fine as a conversion. One word...chainline.
Do a google search on chainline and make certain that you both understand and have the proper tools to measure and calculate your chainline. I agree that the inner position on your double crankset is the starting point. You may wind up replacing the chainrings and using shorter chainring bolts, but keeping that crankarms/spider.
Measure your rear dropout inner-to-inner spacing carefully, using a digital caliper (a wise investment).
Keep your brakeset, but replace all cabling and pads. Go for koolstop salmon or equivalent pads - these will help with wet weather braking.
Velomine is a good source for budget wheels, make certain of your rear hub dimensions prior to placing the order. They will include the 3mm spacers for you if you specify.
Should be a terrific conversion and a great rider.
The Techniums that I've seen have been well made, good riding low-mid level bikes. Yours should do fine as a conversion. One word...chainline.
Do a google search on chainline and make certain that you both understand and have the proper tools to measure and calculate your chainline. I agree that the inner position on your double crankset is the starting point. You may wind up replacing the chainrings and using shorter chainring bolts, but keeping that crankarms/spider.
Measure your rear dropout inner-to-inner spacing carefully, using a digital caliper (a wise investment).
Keep your brakeset, but replace all cabling and pads. Go for koolstop salmon or equivalent pads - these will help with wet weather braking.
Velomine is a good source for budget wheels, make certain of your rear hub dimensions prior to placing the order. They will include the 3mm spacers for you if you specify.
Should be a terrific conversion and a great rider.




