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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

Need info! plz help

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Old 01-08-14 | 01:06 AM
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Bikes: 29er mongoose ss & Raleigh technium

Need info! plz help

I have recently purchased a Raleigh tehnium. Its missing the front wheel. I'd really like to do a fixie conversion to it but am unsure of what to do and how to do it.. Also.. I need some opinions on where to order parts from.. I need help truly identifying the specifics of the bike.. Thanks In Advance.

If anyone can help with year,make,model,material, value, etc it would b awesome. Aslo post any lunks on fixoe conversions that might help
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Old 01-08-14 | 01:50 AM
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Based on the pics, I'd say the bike is mid-80's. I assume it has horizontal rear dropouts. Dropout spacing is probably 126mm. Should be easy to convert to fixed. Can't tell what crankset it has, but may be useable. The main thing is to acquire some wheels. It would be easier to purchase a rear wheel already set up for a fixed cog than try to re-dish the one you have. There are a lot on ebay to choose from. You have two choices for drivetrain parts (chain ring, chain, and cog): 3/32" or 1/8" width. 3/32 is basic road bike width, 1/8" is track. I have two fixed gear bikes, both with 1/8" (parts cost about the same, but are a little stronger and take longer to wear out). If the rear wheel comes with 120mm spacing, you may need to add spacers to make it fit your frame without putting stress on the rear triangle. This is VERY easy to do, and some wheel sellers will offer to include spacers if you put it in the notes. If you can use the crankset you already have (which is 3/32), remember that you can put a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" chainring, but not the other way around. SRAM PC-7x chain is 1/8" and comes with 3-piece master link. There are lots of others to choose from, but that's what I use. Another thing: keep at least one of your brakes, and if you buy new wheels, make sure you get some that have a braking surface (track wheels do NOT). It's a lot of info, but it's not all that complicated. I am sure there are people in your area who can help you. If there is a bike shop nearby, they can give you advice on what to do and how to do it. YouTube is a great resource, also. Good luck. Have fun. Stay safe.
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Old 01-08-14 | 07:28 AM
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Bikes: 1984 Bridgestone 400 1985Univega nouevo sport 650b conversion 1993b'stone RBT 1985 Schwinn Tempo

Go to the C&V forum, I believe there's someone there who can tell you about Techniums. My advice is get a front wheel, overhaul the bike and ride it as is. Why do you want a fixie other than it's just cool at the moment? I was once helping at a bike drive for a local charity, and some one brought in a Colnago that had been turned into a fixie, the cable guides and derailleur hanger had been filed or cut off, destroying most of its value. A Technium isn't a Colnago,but still why chop it up? Why not just buy a fixed gear bike.
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Old 01-08-14 | 07:58 AM
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Here's a Technium fixed gear. Since this picture was taken I've painted the rims yellow.

I built the wheels myself using a Surly flip/flop hub. This bike started life as a mountain bike with 130 mm rear spacing 700c X 28 mm tires just fit. A ordinary reach 105 caliper brake happened to fit the front perfectly.

I'm not a C&V kind of guy. Some people just don't "get" the urge to mod.
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Old 01-08-14 | 08:46 AM
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The default page to begin with a fixed-gear conversion is here.

Reliable on-line dealers
Gear Ratio

Last edited by prooftheory; 01-08-14 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 01-08-14 | 01:37 PM
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Old 01-08-14 | 01:47 PM
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Looks like maybe Suntour Omega components. Was on the low end of Suntour components. You can still use the brakes and crank. I dont see why not
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Old 01-08-14 | 01:53 PM
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Just out of curiosity where did you buy the bike? Have you popped by your local bike shop yet?
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Old 01-08-14 | 04:42 PM
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How'd you get a bike that's missing its front wheel?
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Old 01-08-14 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JeremyLC
How'd you get a bike that's missing its front wheel?


Hopefully not.
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Old 01-08-14 | 04:46 PM
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Since you're "missing" the front wheel, here's a good opportunity to get a new/ proper track wheelset here:

https://www.velomine.com/

Then get the other odds and ends such as chain, lockring, tires, inner tubes, cog, lockring here:

retro-gression.com

Pretty much the lowest prices on the net @ both those sites; doesn't hurt to check amazon & ebay too.^

You'll need 1/8ths chain & cog. If you plan to keep the original crank, get 19T.
700C wheels.
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Old 01-08-14 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Tvandel13
Need info! plz help
[info]Learn to spell. Use grammar. It helps readers to understand your posts and it doesn't annoy people who believe they shouldn't have to translate something before responding.[/info]
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Old 01-08-14 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Leukybear


Hopefully not.
I ****ing laughed soo hard.........
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Old 01-08-14 | 06:57 PM
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I did too. So loud my gf got mad.

More info... I bought it second hand from a guy inmy town. He said hr lost the wheel when he moved. No big deal. A wheel set at a site I checked out was about 85$ to answer other ?s. I'm not sire about converting. I'm mechanically inclined. And I wanted a challenge. And I prefer a fixie Because it forces me to work harder at getting places. And I apologize but what is c&v?

Biketourist60 thank you for the detailed info. And thank you to everyone else to the info provided
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Old 01-08-14 | 06:59 PM
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Ironwood. I would never chop anything up. Changing components is one thing but defacing the unit is an entirely different story.
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Old 01-08-14 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by europa
[info]Learn to spell. Use grammar. It helps readers to understand your posts and it doesn't annoy people who believe they shouldn't have to translate something before responding.[/info]
Europa, I'm sorry about the title to my first post. I am new to this sort of thing. And I'm very used to using shorthand. I will do my best to not let it happen again. Thanks for letting me know.
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Old 01-08-14 | 07:06 PM
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Bikes: 29er mongoose ss & Raleigh technium

Originally Posted by walrus1
Just out of curiosity where did you buy the bike? Have you popped by your local bike shop yet?
Not yet. Cold weather really keeps me in
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Old 01-08-14 | 07:15 PM
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You'll need 1/8ths chain & cog. If you plan to keep the original crank, get 19T.
700C wheels.[/QUOTE]

With a 19t wheel gear what would my max estimated speed be if I left the original crankset on the bike? And how would that work if its a double or triple gear crank?
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Old 01-08-14 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by biketourist60
Based on the pics, I'd say the bike is mid-80's. I assume it has horizontal rear dropouts. Dropout spacing is probably 126mm. Should be easy to convert to fixed. Can't tell what crankset it has, but may be useable. The main thing is to acquire some wheels. It would be easier to purchase a rear wheel already set up for a fixed cog than try to re-dish the one you have. There are a lot on ebay to choose from. You have two choices for drivetrain parts (chain ring, chain, and cog): 3/32" or 1/8" width. 3/32 is basic road bike width, 1/8" is track. I have two fixed gear bikes, both with 1/8" (parts cost about the same, but are a little stronger and take longer to wear out). If the rear wheel comes with 120mm spacing, you may need to add spacers to make it fit your frame without putting stress on the rear triangle. This is VERY easy to do, and some wheel sellers will offer to include spacers if you put it in the notes. If you can use the crankset you already have (which is 3/32), remember that you can put a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" chainring, but not the other way around. SRAM PC-7x chain is 1/8" and comes with 3-piece master link. There are lots of others to choose from, but that's what I use. Another thing: keep at least one of your brakes, and if you buy new wheels, make sure you get some that have a braking surface (track wheels do NOT). It's a lot of info, but it's not all that complicated. I am sure there are people in your area who can help you. If there is a bike shop nearby, they can give you advice on what to do and how to do it. YouTube is a great resource, also. Good luck. Have fun. Stay safe.
I'll try to get some good pics of the crankset this weekend. Hopefully that will help everyone help me.
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Old 01-08-14 | 08:26 PM
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[MENTION=363209]Tvandel13[/MENTION] Seriously, where did you buy it from? Also go out to your local LBS they'll be very helpful.

Originally Posted by Leukybear


Hopefully not.
I do wonder if it's a craigslist bike. In NYC and other areas stolen bikes are on CL.
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Old 01-08-14 | 09:46 PM
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The Technium was an aluminum tubed bike (main triangle only, I think) bonded to steel lugs with some kind of glue.

I'm not exactly sure about cold-setting a frame like this, so I'd measure the rear spacing carefully and get a wheelset whose over locknut dimension (OLD) matches that of the frame.

The inner chainring is probably something like 42 teeth. That'll match up pretty good with a 16T cog or thereabouts.
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Old 01-08-14 | 11:14 PM
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[MENTION=333003]walrus1[/MENTION] I did buy it on cl but I'm in Iowa.. So... Idk..
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Old 01-08-14 | 11:28 PM
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I got wheels, cog, and crankset from one of my local bike shops for around $200. Conversion is pretty easy. The dropouts may be an issue depending on how vertical or horizontal they are. On my conversion frame they we're almost horizontal so tensioning the chain wasn't a problem. Bringing the bike to the shop I could fit the wheels to the frame before I bought them, no surprises.
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Old 01-09-14 | 07:19 AM
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Tvandel13,
The Techniums that I've seen have been well made, good riding low-mid level bikes. Yours should do fine as a conversion. One word...chainline.

Do a google search on chainline and make certain that you both understand and have the proper tools to measure and calculate your chainline. I agree that the inner position on your double crankset is the starting point. You may wind up replacing the chainrings and using shorter chainring bolts, but keeping that crankarms/spider.

Measure your rear dropout inner-to-inner spacing carefully, using a digital caliper (a wise investment).

Keep your brakeset, but replace all cabling and pads. Go for koolstop salmon or equivalent pads - these will help with wet weather braking.

Velomine is a good source for budget wheels, make certain of your rear hub dimensions prior to placing the order. They will include the 3mm spacers for you if you specify.

Should be a terrific conversion and a great rider.
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Old 01-09-14 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Tvandel13
...And I apologize but what is c&v?

...
https://www.bikeforums.net/forumdispl...ic-amp-Vintage
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