*new*guy

I totally agree with you on this. I've been turning wrenches for years but I still worry about stripping the bolts or having the hub side break apart from stress.

chrisgraham81

that kinda happened to me a couple days ago. I was tightening up my front wheel and the part of the hub that holds the inside of the fork drop out snaped into two peices.

the part im talking about is the next piece on the axle after the track nut. It makes contact with the fork and now that a major peice is missing riding fast is a bit scarier

riderx

Um, dude, it should go without saying, but get that fixed ASAP or don't ride it. Unless your dental insurance is paid up...

trackmaster

Yo check out the Level Hub @ www.bikeophile.com

vomitron

You know, I absolutely love the idea of the Level hub, and my buddy JimC knows the guy that runs that shindig, but my only issue with it is that it doesn't come in black.

I know that's a pretty trivial concern with a hub, and I flip-flopped (har har har) on the subject for a while, but I came to the conclusion that if I'm going to be shelling out double what most people spend on a hubset on a single rear hub, I should get the color that I want.

Maybe I should ask if they'll anodize it for me (or make me one unanodized so I can anodize it myself!)

mikorp

I have 2 bikes with paul hubs, but don't let phil know. i live in sf. i opted for the campy flange, and paul pulled it off, and phil failed. phils are sick, but it all comes down to bearings, and i think they are the same. both are stunning. if you don't want your wheels stolen, just get a miche or suzue disco.

marzio

frist off......yo think about how long phil been in the game of making hubs.....paul all good...PHIL are great.....all you you peolpe say is phil are tooo much money......you git what you pay for....they will take care of anything that you need...with there stuff.........bottom line you can eat at taco bell or you can eat at that great mexican food place.....mite cost more but worth it........

sloppy robot

textbook drunkpinion

auk

Git? Stop watching the Blue Collar Comedy Tour, it's speading.

*new*guy

figures. I was working on my bike a bit ago, and now the drive side of the axle body is stripped. I emailed paul to see if it's replaceable. I love the hubs but the allen bolt securing method is dumb for something that gets removed and installed as often as a rear wheel.

infestedguy1

does anyone know what the recommended torque values are for tightening the pauls or the phils axle bolts are, particularly the rear? after going through the ordeal with the lock nut on my pauls, i'm paranoid about stripping the axle now after reading this thread. its also making me reconsider getting the phils for a new wheelset. i always use a torque wrench when tightening the bolts, unless something happens on the road, and i usually only go on the pauls about 20 ft pounds. with traditional bolts and axle i go a little higher to 22 - 25 ft. pounds.

SSSasky

I ride brakeless IRO (well, I have a brake, but it only gets touched once every ten rides or so, and only in emergencies, like when ******* police officers cut me off intentionally). I skip a lot, no skidding really. No problems. I've had locktite on since day one.

creejoh

I am bumping this thread from waaay back, just to see if anyone has any more opinions in the past 4 years. I'm in the market for a new wheel build and Phil and Paul are what I am looking into. The LBS says Pauls are better (and lighter) than Phils, and I live in San Jose, so that is saying something to me since Phil Wood is local.

Does anyone have any experience with both?

Wil

I don't have any experience with Pauls, nor Phil Wood, hubs, but something that you might want to consider is that the Pauls hub has a 44mm chainline. Which may require you to perform a little bit of BB/crank magic to achieve a straight chainline.

https://www.paulcomp.com/highflangerear.html

dudezor

+1. Formula hubs do the job just fine if you aren't a noob who doesn't lock it down properly. As for Loctite on cogs/lockrings... fark that. That's just stupid.

Ken Cox

Paul hubs cost $289 with a black finish, weigh 468gm and support a 44mm chainline.

Phil hubs cost $402 with a black finish, weigh 514gm and support a 42mm chainline.

=====

The two millimeter chainline difference matters.

It can make the difference between a silent and a noisy chain.

I ride with a Phil bottom bracket, and so I can adjust out a 2mm difference; as can the rider with a Miche bottom bracket.

Mixing an matching cogs can also overcome the 2mm difference.