word

new drive trains are noisy sometimes...



This thread is ridiculous.

Awesome.

This response is ridiculous.

OP: Did you get the tire to re-seat properly? I recently purchased tires for my wife's new bike and on one of them, the tire was 'bent' (not sure the term, but the bead was warped a little). It took a little finagling, but I finally got it seated properly and inflated it and everything sort of settled into place. I also put new Gatorskins on my bike a couple of weeks ago and something wasn't quite right about it (seemed a little 'wobbly' when I spun the wheel, but I let it go as it was hot and late and I chalked it up to an irregular tire. I went out to ride the next morning and the tire had come unseated from the rim. You may do what was suggested a few posts ago and try to sort of massage the tire into place one more time. I did that with my wife's tire and the one of mine that came unseated and both are spinning nice and true and ride great.

I'm fairly new to bikes, but I have done a build from parts and just from my limited experience with tires in the last few weeks, I've found that re-working a tire can sometimes get it seated where it needs to be. Might just be a tiny bit off.

Best of luck. I love the build!

Not in my experience. And they shouldn't be. Brand new high quality components, specifically designed to mate one another should result in dead f'n silent operation.


A bicycle enthusiast just built his first bike using good bits. He is dissatisfied with a couple things and having a problem with couple other things. Other bike enthusiasts are attempting to help him troubleshoot the problems. Seems like a friendly thread that may result in a positive outcome for the OP to me.

Lol k

This isn't uncommon, particularly if you buy tyres over the internet and they're shipped to you folded up or twisted into a smaller space. As you've discovered, it's no biggie if you're willing to take the trouble to work around the 'problem'. You can also buy tyres with soft beads designed to be folded - these aren't any better quality but can have convenience advantages.

Sorry for the hijack. We can now go back to the OP's drivetrain :)

Possible chainline issues
 

Update:

So i've tried everything possible to reseat the tire. However it's a wire beaded tire and the velocity A23 rims are notorious for difficulties in seating tires. There are just some regions where the wire bead is STUCK in the middle of the rim. Thus I ordered a tire seating tool that should arrive today. I hope this will take care of the wobble issue.

Now on another note, while my chain is off, I decided to check one more time about the chainline. After many repetitions, I have come to the conclusion that my rear cog has a chainline of 42mm, but my crank is at 45mm.

Now this has me scratching my head, because of two reasons: my bottom bracket is 68mm, and so many people use the omniums. Is everyones chainline 3 mm off? Could this be causing the noise?

Lastly, the chainring of the omniums comes about 2 mm from hitting the chainstay, thus I don't see how it is even possible to have a 42mm chainline with this frame.

:(

Your bottom bracket is 68mm, everyone's is. Your bottom bracket spindle could be anything. Measure that, buy one 3mm shorter.

How many teeth is the chainring? Might be too large for that frame with a standard chainline.

I don't believe omniums have interchangeable spindles lol! It's a 48t chainring. There is no way to adjust the chainline with omniums (not supposed to use spacers) and setting it up as instructed there is plenty of clearance of the chainstay. What I am saying, is if I had a Sugino 75, for example, and it had a chainline of 42mm, I don't see how it would work because with the omniums at 45mm, they are about 2-3 mm away from the chainstay. Thus if you lost 3mm of chainline with a new crank/chainring, I would think it would hit the chainstay.

The GXP bottom bracket uses spacers between the frame and non drive side bearing cup to adjust chain line. They are typically included with truvativ cranksets utilizing GXP bottom brackets. I just built a wabi classic with omniums and had zero issues with chainline using no spacers. haven't measured my chainline, but I will when I get a chance and will post it.

They are? I've never had any trouble at all.

Take a look at how small 3mm is on a metric ruler. Are you really losing sleep over three millimeters?

This entire thread is stupid. Ride your bike.

I'm glad to know 3mm isn't an issue for a chainline, that is exactly what I wanted to know from an expert.

Thanks for the Nitto stem, it is amazing!

I know it's a hassle, but I would appreciate if you measured your chainline.

I thought the comedy nonstandard bottom brackets were a road bike disease.

Do you live under a rock ?

Au contraire, I installed both a 23mm and 25mm wire bead Pasela PT on a customer's A23 wheels a few days ago. They went on very easily.

In a stall.

Pretty much what I've found, too. I've got two sets of A23's and a variety of Pasela wire and folding bead tires (I'm kind of obsessed with the Pasela PT/TG) in various widths that have all fit very, very easily. I use two layers of our Velotape or a thin woven polyester cloth tape.

Well I retract my statement. For me it was insanely difficult. I suppose I have nothing to compare it to, since this is the first time i've ever installed a tire on a rim. But good lord, you guys must have hands of steel, able to wrestle alligators!

:D

Out of curiosity, what rim tape are you using? That can come into play.

For the record, my customer's wheels (which were built by me) were taped using 16mm Velox.

When I was researching the A23's I found forum post after forum post about people having issues with flats, trouble getting tires on, rim tape being too thick, etc etc... It was suggested to use this, which is very thin. On the second wheel, I used scotch strapping tape, 18mm. I didn't see any difference between the two wheels.

However, these tapes are somewhat 'tacky' and I wonder if that is preventing the bead from seating correctly.

Ok I have a question. When I installed my 25c, for the first bead I was able to get about 75% seated in the rim. The remaining part was SOOOOOO hard to get above the rim. I had to literally use a tire lever and push/force the bead over the rim little by little. It took 30-40 minutes of brute force. After I was like, "I just made this tire my *****" because it was so hard. How did you do it??

Talcum powder on the bead.