Tire size vs gearing
#1
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From: Boston, MA
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
Tire size vs gearing
I'm in the process of planning a singlespeed build, and one of the dilemmas I'm having is which tires to use, and how they affect the gearing. My goal is 73 gear inches. According to the gearing calculator I've been playing with, I can get near-identical gearing with 700x32 tires and 46x17t, and 700x37 tires and 48x18t.
Tire sizing standards seem to be a bit fluid, and I'm trying to wrap my head around the relationships between the different nominal sizes - specifically, the Schwalbe Marathons, which have "700x35C" printed on them, but also have "37-622" molded into the sidewall. From asking around, I've gathered that the inflated width on a 20mm rim is just under 35mm (which is great to know for fender/frame clearance), but what about the height, for determining gearing?
The ultimate question, though, is this: All else being equal (tire brand/model, rim size, frame, gearing, etc.), would you rather ride the bigger tires or the smaller ones, and why?
In this case, it'll be used for all-purpose riding around the Boston area, primarily on paved surfaces with varying degrees of roughness. My main bike is a geared Bianchi Volpe with 32s, and I have no complaints about those, but I'm looking at frames that allow for larger tires, and am wondering if it's worth taking advantage of this extra clearance.
Tire sizing standards seem to be a bit fluid, and I'm trying to wrap my head around the relationships between the different nominal sizes - specifically, the Schwalbe Marathons, which have "700x35C" printed on them, but also have "37-622" molded into the sidewall. From asking around, I've gathered that the inflated width on a 20mm rim is just under 35mm (which is great to know for fender/frame clearance), but what about the height, for determining gearing?
The ultimate question, though, is this: All else being equal (tire brand/model, rim size, frame, gearing, etc.), would you rather ride the bigger tires or the smaller ones, and why?
In this case, it'll be used for all-purpose riding around the Boston area, primarily on paved surfaces with varying degrees of roughness. My main bike is a geared Bianchi Volpe with 32s, and I have no complaints about those, but I'm looking at frames that allow for larger tires, and am wondering if it's worth taking advantage of this extra clearance.
#5
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For me, for regular road riding, assuming the same tire; anything above 28 is too heavy and the extra volume is generally a waste since I don't perceive any added comfort above 28.
So I guess you could tab me as in the 32 column? I'm also not convinced you should be using tire width to fine tune gearing as I don't find that a reliable or useful indicator. I'd recommend just using the nominal size (27 inch) and staying consistent with that measurement across gearing calculations.
So I guess you could tab me as in the 32 column? I'm also not convinced you should be using tire width to fine tune gearing as I don't find that a reliable or useful indicator. I'd recommend just using the nominal size (27 inch) and staying consistent with that measurement across gearing calculations.
#6
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First, the only thing you care about for gearing calculations is the diameter or circumference, not the width.
Tires are random as heck when it comes to their labeled size vs their true size. Profiles vary too. I have Schwalbe Kojaks that are labeled 700x35. They barely measure 32mm wide, but are a true 35mm tall. I have some Specialized tires that are the opposite. They are labeled as 700x45 and they measure a full true 45mm wide, but are only 40mm tall.
Personally, I can feel a big difference with every significant increase or decrease in size. If the bike is just for putting/cruising around, bigger is better IMO. Lots more comfort, especially on rough surfaces. If you are going to be riding quick, and care about weight, keep them as small as your confort level can tolerate.
If you look around, you can find large volume tires that are pretty light too.
Tires are random as heck when it comes to their labeled size vs their true size. Profiles vary too. I have Schwalbe Kojaks that are labeled 700x35. They barely measure 32mm wide, but are a true 35mm tall. I have some Specialized tires that are the opposite. They are labeled as 700x45 and they measure a full true 45mm wide, but are only 40mm tall.
Personally, I can feel a big difference with every significant increase or decrease in size. If the bike is just for putting/cruising around, bigger is better IMO. Lots more comfort, especially on rough surfaces. If you are going to be riding quick, and care about weight, keep them as small as your confort level can tolerate.
If you look around, you can find large volume tires that are pretty light too.
#7
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Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
First, the only thing you care about for gearing calculations is the diameter or circumference, not the width.
Tires are random as heck when it comes to their labeled size vs their true size. Profiles vary too. I have Schwalbe Kojaks that are labeled 700x35. They barely measure 32mm wide, but are a true 35mm tall. I have some Specialized tires that are the opposite. They are labeled as 700x45 and they measure a full true 45mm wide, but are only 40mm tall.
Personally, I can feel a big difference with every significant increase or decrease in size. If the bike is just for putting/cruising around, bigger is better IMO. Lots more comfort, especially on rough surfaces. If you are going to be riding quick, and care about weight, keep them as small as your confort level can tolerate.
If you look around, you can find large volume tires that are pretty light too.
Tires are random as heck when it comes to their labeled size vs their true size. Profiles vary too. I have Schwalbe Kojaks that are labeled 700x35. They barely measure 32mm wide, but are a true 35mm tall. I have some Specialized tires that are the opposite. They are labeled as 700x45 and they measure a full true 45mm wide, but are only 40mm tall.
Personally, I can feel a big difference with every significant increase or decrease in size. If the bike is just for putting/cruising around, bigger is better IMO. Lots more comfort, especially on rough surfaces. If you are going to be riding quick, and care about weight, keep them as small as your confort level can tolerate.
If you look around, you can find large volume tires that are pretty light too.
#8
I'm in the process of planning a singlespeed build, and one of the dilemmas I'm having is which tires to use, and how they affect the gearing. My goal is 73 gear inches. According to the gearing calculator I've been playing with, I can get near-identical gearing with 700x32 tires and 46x17t, and 700x37 tires and 48x18t.
Tire sizing standards seem to be a bit fluid, and I'm trying to wrap my head around the relationships between the different nominal sizes - specifically, the Schwalbe Marathons, which have "700x35C" printed on them, but also have "37-622" molded into the sidewall. From asking around, I've gathered that the inflated width on a 20mm rim is just under 35mm (which is great to know for fender/frame clearance), but what about the height, for determining gearing?
The ultimate question, though, is this: All else being equal (tire brand/model, rim size, frame, gearing, etc.), would you rather ride the bigger tires or the smaller ones, and why?
In this case, it'll be used for all-purpose riding around the Boston area, primarily on paved surfaces with varying degrees of roughness. My main bike is a geared Bianchi Volpe with 32s, and I have no complaints about those, but I'm looking at frames that allow for larger tires, and am wondering if it's worth taking advantage of this extra clearance.
Tire sizing standards seem to be a bit fluid, and I'm trying to wrap my head around the relationships between the different nominal sizes - specifically, the Schwalbe Marathons, which have "700x35C" printed on them, but also have "37-622" molded into the sidewall. From asking around, I've gathered that the inflated width on a 20mm rim is just under 35mm (which is great to know for fender/frame clearance), but what about the height, for determining gearing?
The ultimate question, though, is this: All else being equal (tire brand/model, rim size, frame, gearing, etc.), would you rather ride the bigger tires or the smaller ones, and why?
In this case, it'll be used for all-purpose riding around the Boston area, primarily on paved surfaces with varying degrees of roughness. My main bike is a geared Bianchi Volpe with 32s, and I have no complaints about those, but I'm looking at frames that allow for larger tires, and am wondering if it's worth taking advantage of this extra clearance.
32's I guess?
#9
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From: Boston, MA
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
When you switched tires, did you do anything about the gearing? Reducing tire size means reducing overall wheel size, which lowers your gearing a little (from 72.23 to 71.18 gear inches), with the same chainring/cog ratio...meaning, you'd theoretically be quicker off the line. What I want to know is, with the same effective gearing, what do people think of the difference in tire size?
#11
When you switched tires, did you do anything about the gearing? Reducing tire size means reducing overall wheel size, which lowers your gearing a little (from 72.23 to 71.18 gear inches), with the same chainring/cog ratio...meaning, you'd theoretically be quicker off the line. What I want to know is, with the same effective gearing, what do people think of the difference in tire size?
#12
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From: Boston, MA
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
I can't ride the bike until I have it, and I can't have it until I have the build specs worked out!
#13
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Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
I tend to pick tire size and gearing independently. The only time the tire directly impacts the gearing is when I install the studded tires on the fixed-gear and drop the gearing in order to avoid a heart attack.
Last edited by ThermionicScott; 01-15-15 at 05:03 PM.
#14
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Would you guess, then, that the 35 Marathon, which gives both numbers, is 35 wide by 37 tall? I tend to ride as hard and fast as conditions allow, but I also have bikes equipped with rear racks, full fenders, one with a drum brake and 3-speed hubs, so I'm not really what you'd call a weight weenie.
1. Buy the tires that you dig, or that you want to try based on whatever critera.
2. Mount the tires.
3. Measure the tire's ACTUAL circumference.
4. Based on the ACTUAL tire size, select the sprockets that will give you your desired gearing.
You'll never know if you like the tire until you try it anyway. I've had tires with "killer specs" that felt crappy. And I've had tires the "weighed a ton" but felt lively, agile and fast. In fact' the heaviest tires I have on a bike, with the THICKEST and stiffest sidewalls feels the most compliant AND the fastest. I have no idea why. And the cheapest crappiest tires I own out GRIP my expensive slicks by a wide margin. Dunno.
Last edited by SquidPuppet; 01-15-15 at 05:16 PM.
#16
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From: Boston, MA
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#18
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From: dEnVeR
Bikes: CENTURION / LOOK / Bianchi
Yes -- these people are like top tiered pro race teams where stuff like this is crucial but I doubt you are on a team like this simply because.. You wouldnt be asking us jokers these questions 
So really, don't stress out so much about the difference between a 73 gear ratio with 28c vs 32c tires etc.. Yes, there will be a difference -- will you notice it? Probably not. So just pick some good tires -- get a good deal and go ride!

So really, don't stress out so much about the difference between a 73 gear ratio with 28c vs 32c tires etc.. Yes, there will be a difference -- will you notice it? Probably not. So just pick some good tires -- get a good deal and go ride!
#19
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From: Boston, MA
Bikes: Bianchi Volpe, ANT 3-speed roadster, New Albion Privateer singlespeed, Raleigh One Way singlespeed, Raleigh Professional "retro roadie" rebuild, 198? Fuji(?) franken-5-speed, 1937 Raleigh Tourist, 1952 Raleigh Sports, 1966 Raleigh Sports step-through
Let me see if I can rephrase my original question in simpler terms...because you're right, I'm not on a team, nor am I any sort of racer, but I know what I like for singlespeed gearing, and I'm trying to decide the best way to achieve it with a custom build around a stock frame.
In general, if all else was equal, would you rather run the larger or smaller version of the same brand and model of tire, each filled to its optimal pressure? Would there be a noticeable difference in handling? Would the larger one feel squishier and slower on paved roads? Would the larger size and lower pressure smooth out the rough spots and stay on the road, while the smaller one bounces around?
That's the sort of thing I want to know. As it happens, the gearing I like for singlespeed lands almost halfway between two of my most frequently-used gears on my Volpe, but I originally achieved it using different chainring and cog, and wheel sizes than what's available on that bike. So I could always just do the simple thing and use the same chainring size, and the cog halfway between the two in question. Actually, that looks like it may even give me my comfortable singlespeed gearing (within a probably-acceptable margin of error) regardless of which of the two tire sizes I choose.
In general, if all else was equal, would you rather run the larger or smaller version of the same brand and model of tire, each filled to its optimal pressure? Would there be a noticeable difference in handling? Would the larger one feel squishier and slower on paved roads? Would the larger size and lower pressure smooth out the rough spots and stay on the road, while the smaller one bounces around?
That's the sort of thing I want to know. As it happens, the gearing I like for singlespeed lands almost halfway between two of my most frequently-used gears on my Volpe, but I originally achieved it using different chainring and cog, and wheel sizes than what's available on that bike. So I could always just do the simple thing and use the same chainring size, and the cog halfway between the two in question. Actually, that looks like it may even give me my comfortable singlespeed gearing (within a probably-acceptable margin of error) regardless of which of the two tire sizes I choose.
#21
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From: dEnVeR
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Will a 32c tire even clear your frame? Lots of fixed gear frames don't have the clearance for tires that big generally.. I think 25-28c should probably be just fine for bombing around Boston -- I've got 25c on most of my bikes for riding here in SF, my road bike has 23c's though. The handling is good, ride isnt squishy but not crazy stiff either. I've always been told that Boston streets are crazy bad so based on THAT I'd probably rock 28c's!
#22
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Will a 32c tire even clear your frame? Lots of fixed gear frames don't have the clearance for tires that big generally.. I think 25-28c should probably be just fine for bombing around Boston -- I've got 25c on most of my bikes for riding here in SF, my road bike has 23c's though. The handling is good, ride isnt squishy but not crazy stiff either. I've always been told that Boston streets are crazy bad so based on THAT I'd probably rock 28c's!
Edit, just for the record: freewheel single, not fixed.
#23
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#24
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Would there be a noticeable difference in handling?
Would the larger one feel squishier and slower on paved roads?
Would the larger size and lower pressure smooth out the rough spots and stay on the road, while the smaller one bounces around?
#25
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This is the tire I am putting on the Townie I am building.
700 x 45mm Gumwall. 100% Slick....no tread. It's gunna slolom like glue.
Specialized Bicycle Components
700 x 45mm Gumwall. 100% Slick....no tread. It's gunna slolom like glue.

Specialized Bicycle Components



