Timing Chain for Cannondale Tandem
#1
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Timing Chain for Cannondale Tandem
I have a really simple question that I cannot seem to find the answer to. We just purchased a 2006 Cannondale tandem, Ultregra 9 speed. I was doing some maintenance and found the timing chain has a broken link. I took it out and the chain is now too short even with the adjustment all the way back. I cannot figure out what chain to purchase to replace it. Is it a 9 speed? or something else.
I have spent a long time looking on line and nothing makes sense to me.
I have spent a long time looking on line and nothing makes sense to me.
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On a timing chain it does not matter what sort/brand of chain your use.
You have 2 solutions:
1: Buy 2 new chains of your brand/price choice. Takes roughly 1 1/2 chains to replace a cross over chain.
2: if you have rotated the eccentric all the way and you are still short a link, buy a quick link that will work on that brand chain.
You have 2 solutions:
1: Buy 2 new chains of your brand/price choice. Takes roughly 1 1/2 chains to replace a cross over chain.
2: if you have rotated the eccentric all the way and you are still short a link, buy a quick link that will work on that brand chain.
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Ok. That makes sense. I can buy a link, it is just short. But, is it a 9 speed chain or 8 speed? I have seen both referenced.
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Take cross over chain to bike shop, they should be able to tell you and sell you appropriate link(s).
Usually there's a brand name or symbol and perhaps some numbers that will give them a clue.
Good luck and pedal on!
Rudy and Kay/zonatandem
Usually there's a brand name or symbol and perhaps some numbers that will give them a clue.
Good luck and pedal on!
Rudy and Kay/zonatandem
#5
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If you have a broken link I would replace the timing chain. Chances are it is stretched and will continue to wear the timing chainrings. It is unlikely that a bike shop will sell you a few links, let alone have a new chain that is compatible. (I would not mix chain links unless joining them with quick links)
If you are set on keeping the chain, at least have the bike shop measure it for stretch. If it is stretched, replace it, or it will cost you much more down the road.
As for your original question, it is likely that the chainrings are consistent with the technology of the era your bike was built. 2006 was in the 9-10 speed era, so an 8 or 9 speed chain should be fine. The difference between an 8 and 9 speed chain is link width. This is important with regards to the spacing between the rear cluster cogs. The timing rings don't have adjacent rings and width is not a concern.
Enjoy your new bike!
If you are set on keeping the chain, at least have the bike shop measure it for stretch. If it is stretched, replace it, or it will cost you much more down the road.
As for your original question, it is likely that the chainrings are consistent with the technology of the era your bike was built. 2006 was in the 9-10 speed era, so an 8 or 9 speed chain should be fine. The difference between an 8 and 9 speed chain is link width. This is important with regards to the spacing between the rear cluster cogs. The timing rings don't have adjacent rings and width is not a concern.
Enjoy your new bike!
Last edited by Alcanbrad; 05-17-15 at 04:54 AM.
#6
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Chains are cheap. Chainrings are expensive. Running a stretched out chain will destroy your chainrings. Replace the chain. I use this for timing chain: KMC Z51 Chain 6/7/8 Speed 1/2" x 3/32" Brown. Cost: $6.77 each.
Edit: You need two chains to replace a timing chain.
Edit: You need two chains to replace a timing chain.
Last edited by WheelsNT; 05-17-15 at 12:52 PM.
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Chains are cheap. Chainrings are expensive. Running a stretched out chain will destroy your chainrings. Replace the chain. I use this for timing chain: KMC Z51 Chain 6/7/8 Speed 1/2" x 3/32" Brown. Cost: $6.77 each.
Edit: You need two chains to replace a timing chain.
Edit: You need two chains to replace a timing chain.
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Thanks to all responses, I have checked the stretch and it is fine. I have the tool to check it with. I think that replacing the chain will be the prudent thing to do anyway.
Thanks again...
Thanks again...
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Before installing a Gates Belt, I used to install a 9 speed chain to be compatible with our drive chain, so i wouldn't have to bring along two different size quick links and spare chain links with us.
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That makes sense.
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Just as an extension to the "use the same sync chain and drive chain" philosophy. If you are going to use two quick links anyway, make sure the long part of your sync chain is the same length as your drive chain. That way if you mess up a shift or get chain-suck and bend your drive chain, you can replace it with the segment from the sync chain. That way you can either run on stoker power, or since sync chains are more forgiving you might be able to use the bent chain in the sync, at least to save you a walk.
Cheers,
Cameron
Cheers,
Cameron
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Have had to run a couple times on 'stoker power' only when we broke cross over chain close to home.
Have gotten 20,000 miles on cross over chains and chainrings
Keep 'em clean + eccentric adjusted properly.
Have gotten 20,000 miles on cross over chains and chainrings
Keep 'em clean + eccentric adjusted properly.
#13
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I don't get too picky on timing chains. On occasion I've even used the cheap 7 or 8 speed ones available at Walmart. Most of the timing rings I have will work with them just fine.
For a while on our triplet we had three timing chains, plus one drive chain. (Two regular timing chains and a third one for the stokid kit.) That $$$ adds up quickly - also the weight. I weighed all the chains once and was fairly shocked how much they weighed (something like 2.5-3 pounds or so).
For a while on our triplet we had three timing chains, plus one drive chain. (Two regular timing chains and a third one for the stokid kit.) That $$$ adds up quickly - also the weight. I weighed all the chains once and was fairly shocked how much they weighed (something like 2.5-3 pounds or so).