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Wheel upgrade - suggestions?

Old 01-13-24, 03:40 PM
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Wheel upgrade - suggestions?

Currently have a 36 spoke disc wheels w/DT 535 rims and DT540 hubs. Looking to lighten things up a bit. Captain & stoker weight in the 290ish area, bike is a Cannondale T2, call it ~30ish pounds without wheels currently (I'm working on getting lighter parts).

Drivetrain is 10spd Shimano but I will be upgrading that to something modern (11 or 12spd, am working thru that logistic now--which of course influences hub choice).

Riding terrain is generally pancake flat (SWFL). Any suggestions on wheel choice appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 01-13-24, 07:37 PM
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If you're riding on a "pancake flat terrain", lighter wheels aren't really going to do much for you. Maybe a little faster acceleration at best. If you want a faster ride, I'd focus on rolling resistance (better tires and tubes), aerodynamics (riding position, handlebars, clothing), and drivetrain friction (wax instead of bottled lube, maybe a timing belt instead of a chain). That said, I totally understand the itch to upgrade wheels and other components, even if it's not entirely logical! Everyone loves cool gear. Mel at Tandems East makes some really nice carbon wheels for different team weights that'll definitely scratch that itch.

If you want to sell your old cranks, please PM me. Thanks!

Cheers,
Toby
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Old 01-14-24, 08:41 AM
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Thanks and will do re: Gossamer's. I'm working on the logistics of possibly converting it to SRAM 11 spd etap with a 34x34 as the granny gear (if needed). The biggest hill 'round here is literally a bridge, so I don't need a triple.

Originally Posted by TobyGadd
If you're riding on a "pancake flat terrain", lighter wheels aren't really going to do much for you. Maybe a little faster acceleration at best. If you want a faster ride, I'd focus on rolling resistance (better tires and tubes), aerodynamics (riding position, handlebars, clothing), and drivetrain friction (wax instead of bottled lube, maybe a timing belt instead of a chain). That said, I totally understand the itch to upgrade wheels and other components, even if it's not entirely logical! Everyone loves cool gear. Mel at Tandems East makes some really nice carbon wheels for different team weights that'll definitely scratch that itch.

If you want to sell your old cranks, please PM me. Thanks!

Cheers,
Toby
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Old 01-14-24, 08:44 AM
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Take a look at Spinergy wheels, available from House of Tandems. We have been very pleased with ours on our CoMo.
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Old 01-14-24, 09:48 AM
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^^ Thanks! Nice website. Just shot 'em a note about GX and FCC 32's.
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Old 01-21-24, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Artmo
Take a look at Spinergy wheels, available from House of Tandems. We have been very pleased with ours on our CoMo.
+1 on the Spinergy’s from HoT. Light weight and rock solid.
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Old 01-22-24, 05:46 PM
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Lightbicycle.com.

65mm deep carbon rims. Still will be reasonably light, and fast on the flats
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Old 01-23-24, 06:28 AM
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Thx. Am familiar with them, Farsports, etc.

Wasn't sure if those types of wheels would be strong enough for tandem use, via xtra weight & xtra torque as consideration.

I've sheared a pair of hub flanges once, and that really sucked....

Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
Lightbicycle.com.

65mm deep carbon rims. Still will be reasonably light, and fast on the flats
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Old 01-23-24, 09:47 AM
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We have a set of Lightbicycle wheels on our Dragonfly. With a team weight of 340lbs, we’ve been riding them for 3 years with zero problems.

one nice thing about Lightbicycle is that you can completely customize your wheel. We went with 28 spokes, and the heavy duty rim option, which adds about 100 grams to the weight of the wheel set, but also adds strength.

If you go with a deep section rim like the 65 mm, the standard rims are already going to be pretty stiff, so depending on your team weight, and riding style ( some people,are harder on wheels than others) you might not need the extra heavy duty rims. I spec’d them for a little peace of mind, at a relatively low weight penalty.

Conversely, if you want a bullet proof wheel, 65 mm deep sectioned rims, heavy duty rim option, and 32 spoke would make n extremely strong wheel
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Old 01-23-24, 06:55 PM
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^^ Thanks for that. Super helpful to know. We're about the same--both riders and bike with current wheels.

I'm a huge fan of that type of wheel company ordering. I have a few sets from Farsports and they've been terrific. Have heard similar good things about Lighbicycle as well. Was going to get something from them, but for my specific build spec, the wider internal rim widths would not fit my older frames and Farsports was the only one that did. No such width issues exist with the T2 tandem, the fork crown is ginormous as is the rear triangle.
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Old 02-27-24, 08:30 PM
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Spokes don't weigh much.
Many rims may be true, but are they really round?
IMHO, the hubs will make more difference than anything else. Phil Woods are the best. White Industries are probably next, and DT Swiss come along after that. A good set of hubs on a hand built wheel will out run many/most when coasting downhill. That's my measure of wheel efficiency.
Not related or affiliated, but I have been running Joe Young Wheels on my road bike, touring bike, and Seven Tandem for over 20 years. Never an issue, never a failure. I'm sure there are others.
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Old 03-29-24, 03:44 AM
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Bear in mind our Cannondale came with a 145mm rear spacing, so of the shelf rear wheels will need some work.
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Old 03-30-24, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by JSNYC
Thanks and will do re: Gossamer's. I'm working on the logistics of possibly converting it to SRAM 11 spd etap with a 34x34 as the granny gear (if needed). The biggest hill 'round here is literally a bridge, so I don't need a triple.
Please keep us updated on the SRAM conversion. I'm thinking of it myself.

Cheers, Mike
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Old 04-02-24, 03:03 AM
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I recently changed from a triple chainset to a double, because the axle on our triple is longer than that of a double I bought two secondhand double chainsets from eBay and cut and welded the two axles to make them the same length as a tripple. It also meant that I went from a 48 38 28 130 BCD to a 48 33 110bcd. Our tandem came with 5mm of spacers on either side of the bottom bracket, and needs them because the Gates belt drive would rub the frame. I guess you could go narrower if you either converted to chaindrive and or spaced the crossover chainrings out further.
All this so we could run hydraulic brakes with standard brifters.
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Old 04-08-24, 06:20 AM
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Been movin' a little slow on that...and riding alot instead.

Also rethinking the double, as we've been using the 53 alot. Ripped down a hill the other day and pretty much spun out in the 12, stoker getting much more comfortable at speed. Maybe a mid-compact is the better way to go.

Originally Posted by PromptCritical
Please keep us updated on the SRAM conversion. I'm thinking of it myself.

Cheers, Mike
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Old 04-08-24, 06:24 AM
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what's your rear spacing on the tandem? and which model did you spec on lightbicycle?

Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
We have a set of Lightbicycle wheels on our Dragonfly. With a team weight of 340lbs, we’ve been riding them for 3 years with zero problems.

one nice thing about Lightbicycle is that you can completely customize your wheel. We went with 28 spokes, and the heavy duty rim option, which adds about 100 grams to the weight of the wheel set, but also adds strength.

If you go with a deep section rim like the 65 mm, the standard rims are already going to be pretty stiff, so depending on your team weight, and riding style ( some people,are harder on wheels than others) you might not need the extra heavy duty rims. I spec’d them for a little peace of mind, at a relatively low weight penalty.

Conversely, if you want a bullet proof wheel, 65 mm deep sectioned rims, heavy duty rim option, and 32 spoke would make n extremely strong wheel
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Old 04-10-24, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JSNYC
what's your rear spacing on the tandem? and which model did you spec on lightbicycle?

65mm 700c Falcon Rims. We did the custom build option to add 100 grams to the rims for extra strength. 28 spokes and DT 240 hubs.

our dropout spacing is 135mm.
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