Proper chain length for a triple.
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,169
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
Proper chain length for a triple.
On my single bike with a double I always put the chain on the smallest front ring and smallest rear cog, 39/12, and take enough off so the upper pulley doesn't contact the chain.
With the triple on my Santana if I put it in the 30/12 , and yes I know not to use this combo, I could add a little more length to the what came from Santana.
What is YOUR method?
I think a little more length wouldn't hurt as long as there isn't any rubbing of the upper pulley or am I wrong.
First bike with a triple.
With the triple on my Santana if I put it in the 30/12 , and yes I know not to use this combo, I could add a little more length to the what came from Santana.
What is YOUR method?
I think a little more length wouldn't hurt as long as there isn't any rubbing of the upper pulley or am I wrong.
First bike with a triple.
#2
Displaced Southerner
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Webster, NY
Bikes: 1967 Peugeot UO-8, 1984 Torpado Beta, 1985 Trek 300, 1989 Dave Moulton Fuso FRX, '90s Hardrock x2, '90s Norco Pinnacle, Focus MB-350 IRO SSFGGB
I follow Sheldon's advice.
"The best technique for setting chain length is to thread the chain onto the large/large combination, without running it through the rear derailer. Mesh the two ends on to the large chainwheel so that they could be connected (outer link meets inner link), then make the chain one complete link (one inch) longer than that. In almost all cases, this will give the optimum length."
"The best technique for setting chain length is to thread the chain onto the large/large combination, without running it through the rear derailer. Mesh the two ends on to the large chainwheel so that they could be connected (outer link meets inner link), then make the chain one complete link (one inch) longer than that. In almost all cases, this will give the optimum length."
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 563
Likes: 0
From: London, UK
Bikes: Trek T200 plus enough others to fill a large shed
+1 for Sheldon.
Reason is that it matters little if the deraileur doesn't take up all the slack in the chain, but bad stuff happens if you try to stretch the chain. If this happens, either the wheel will pull sideways, the chainring will fold up or the deraileur / dropout will pop. For this reason it's a good idea to rigorously test the installation in all gears in the workstand and have more rather than less chain.
Reason is that it matters little if the deraileur doesn't take up all the slack in the chain, but bad stuff happens if you try to stretch the chain. If this happens, either the wheel will pull sideways, the chainring will fold up or the deraileur / dropout will pop. For this reason it's a good idea to rigorously test the installation in all gears in the workstand and have more rather than less chain.
#4
Always use the big / big combination, through the derailleur or as described on Sheldon's web site.
Bad things happen when there's not enough chain to go around the big /big combination and tandems invariably end up crossed-up in the big / big combination. We've had to unlock a few locked-up drive trains on new tandems where the bike shop short-changed the chain. Thankfully, these tandems had self-extracting crank bolts that allowed us to pull the drive side crankset, albeit in an ugly way.
The little / little is of little consequence since it's basically an un-useable gear combination for a variety of reasons, e.g., chain drag on the derailleur and chain chatter on the middle ring all begin about mid-way down the cassette.
Bad things happen when there's not enough chain to go around the big /big combination and tandems invariably end up crossed-up in the big / big combination. We've had to unlock a few locked-up drive trains on new tandems where the bike shop short-changed the chain. Thankfully, these tandems had self-extracting crank bolts that allowed us to pull the drive side crankset, albeit in an ugly way.
The little / little is of little consequence since it's basically an un-useable gear combination for a variety of reasons, e.g., chain drag on the derailleur and chain chatter on the middle ring all begin about mid-way down the cassette.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 287
Likes: 5
From: (BOS + PVD)/2
I use Big-Big and always run it through the pulleys. Then just pull until it is minimal, and go 1 longer. If it doesn't work on small-small after that, then your derailleur doesn't have enough takeup. And I agree with TG that tandems seem to be attracted to bad combinations, but I am getting better at anticipating when we really are going to need the next smaller chainring, and try to get into it before we run out of cogs on the back.
#6
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 702
Likes: 1
From: Grand Prairie, TX
One advantage of the Shimano Flight Deck computer is the graphic gear display, which might help you keep from considering a shift into the large-large combination, because you will know when you are on the adjacent cog.





