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Avid BB7 issues

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Old 01-08-13 | 11:56 AM
  #26  
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Bikes: Volagi, daVinci Joint Venture

Originally Posted by ahultin
Ok,
Used 180 grit sandpaper to try and resurface the pad then tried to re-bed them. Put another 25 miles on it and the front brakes still scream/grind like a banshee. I am going to install the ICE rotor on the front for now (only have one set of new avid pads) and see how it goes.

On a similar note, since the cannondale is setup for disc/v-brake would it be prudent/is it possible to add a stoker controlled V-brake
When you install the ICE rotor you'll need to clip off most of the "foot" on the inboard pad since it will otherwise hit the rotor mounting arms. Not a big deal as you can still use a pair of needle-nose pliers to extract the pad when necessary.

One additional note: I've bought a set of the new Avid HSX rotors for my Volagi which should offer improved performance over the stock Avid rotors. This might also be an option for a tandem. Didn't go with the ICE rotors on the Volgai since the available diameter is a bit greater regarding a new mounting bracket. Actually, the stock Volagi brakes are fine, but you can never have enough braking on a steep, long downhill.
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Old 01-08-13 | 01:41 PM
  #27  
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Bikes: 2006 Co-Motion Roadster (Flat Bars, Discs, Carbon Fork), Some 1/2 bikes and a couple of KTM's

Good point on ensuring the brake pads are fully seated into the clips. If not, there is no telling what sounds or problems will arise. It takes a pretty good effort to get the pads to snap into the clips and engage properly.

Don't overthink this. For us, we run oem Avid metallic BB pads on the road, off-road we are now running EBC HH. The EBC pads squeak and squeal a lot, but stop well and do seem to get trashed in one wet ride. OEM pads have stopped well for us, seldom squeal or sqeak but are crap in the wet. Almost as if the pads dissolve.

FWIW, we beat the crap out of brakes off-road, maybe not long descents but high speed to near stops on our training grounds. Let's say the oem brakes off-road have screamed for mercy, but always stop.

If the pads or disc are wet you will get shudder. If the caliper shifted and / or is able to flex the mount iit can shudder or make all kinds of noises and vibrations.

I no longer run spherical washers on the Co-Motion, need to convert the Ventana when time permits. Over time, my experience is the calipers will move on the spherical mounts even when tightened properly.

Also, on your low time bike, have the spokes brought back to spec as far as tension, loose spokes and discs will do odd things too.

PK
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Old 01-09-13 | 10:03 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ahultin
Used 180 grit sandpaper to try and resurface the pad then tried to re-bed them. Put another 25 miles on it and the front brakes still scream/grind like a banshee.
What did you use to clean the rotor and how did you go about bedding-in the new the pads, i.e., did you just ride the bike and use the brakes or did you cycle the brakes per Avid's Pad break-in instructions?

It typically takes about 20 - 30 successive moderate to hard stops from 12 - 20 mph to bed-in the pads to the rotors and re-burnish the brake pad surfaces such that full brake force is achieved while brake squeal subsides. Then again, if the rotor were really cooked it could take some deep cleaning with brake cleaner to get them shaped back up to where they can be re-seasoned, or they may be toast even though they don't look that bad.

Keep us posted.
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Old 01-09-13 | 10:46 PM
  #29  
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From: Bonsall, Ca

Bikes: 2003 Cannondale Jekyll 1000, 2014 Fuji Finest 1.5 (wife), 2008 Fuji Finest 1.0 (Daughter), 2012 Fuji Cross 2.0 (son), 2011 Cannondale Road Tandem 2

I cleaned the rotor with alcohol and bedded following this from the avid sight
Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed, then firmly apply the
brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat approximately
twenty times.
2 Accelerate the bike to a faster speed. Then very firmly apply
the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat
approximately ten times.
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Old 01-09-13 | 10:53 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ahultin
I cleaned the rotor with alcohol and bedded following this from the avid site...
Interesting...

So, have you fitted the ICE rotors, etc., or is that a project for this weekend?
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Old 01-09-13 | 11:28 PM
  #31  
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From: Bonsall, Ca

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I may attempt to squeeze the install into my day tomorrow, if not it will be Sunday
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Old 01-10-13 | 06:02 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ahultin
I may attempt to squeeze the install into my day tomorrow, if not it will be Sunday
One last thing to consider if you haven't already done so and before pulling off the old pads & rotor would be checking the torque on both the caliper and rotor bolts. It's a long-shot, but under the premise of never leave a stone un-turned.
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Old 01-10-13 | 10:08 AM
  #33  
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Bikes: Tandems: Calfee Dragonfly S&S, Ventana ECDM mtb; Singles: Specialized Tarmac SL4 S-Works, Specialized Stumpjumper Pro, etal.

Otherwise concerning your front disc squeal... perhaps it is a resonance issue with the fork in the mix. I have no idea how you would resolve that other than trying out different rotors/calipers. Maybe swap the front/back calipers as a quick test.

Last edited by twocicle; 01-10-13 at 05:38 PM. Reason: found #26 already mentioned clipping the inner pad tab when using the ICE rotor.
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Old 01-10-13 | 02:12 PM
  #34  
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Started to install the ICE rotor today but the install instructions show a fixing washer which was not included in mine. It also shows the bolts as having a flat "shoulder" for which to be retained by the tightening plate. The bolts included in mine are standard round head torx

Back to the shop
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Old 01-10-13 | 05:43 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ahultin
Started to install the ICE rotor today but the install instructions show a fixing washer which was not included in mine. It also shows the bolts as having a flat "shoulder" for which to be retained by the tightening plate. The bolts included in mine are standard round head torx

Back to the shop
Correct, you will need the 6-square headed bolts, the 6-sided washer plate, and 3 of the proprietary "dog-bone" shaped washers. All should have come with your ICE rotor if it was packaged in the OEM Shimano box.

Last edited by twocicle; 01-23-13 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 01-21-13 | 10:28 AM
  #36  
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From: Bonsall, Ca

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Got the new rotor/pads bedded in and all seems to be working well with no more grinding noise. Have not tested them on another good size hill yet but hoping to today.
As an aside note, i did speak to shimano and the v2 version of the ice rotor no longer comes with the 6 sided washer plate as they are including a new screw that locks to the chainlink looking washers.
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