TRP Spyre mechanical brake = bee's knees?
03-25-13, 04:13 PM
#26
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From experience, the 160mm style caliper perch, chainstay mounted is best in many ways. There is less weight, there is less lateral flex, chainstays are stronger than a dropout. All except the less weight make the brakes work better.
As for the cable run, if the bike does have an acceptable route, such as a diagonal frame tube, the alignment is pretty much perfect with the shortest cable route possible.
As evidence to compare, we have experience with three tandems with disc brakes. A Fandango 29 off-road tandem, a Ventana 26 full suspension off-road tandem andour Co-Motion Roadster with front and rear disc brakes.
The Co-Motion stops very well, but has obvious frame flex and torquing of the LS dropout. Not that I have seriously tried, but on dry pavement I am not convinced the Co-motion can skid the rear tire. It may but might be enough stress to damage the dropout with the leverage provided by the perch and radius of the brake. The caliper is mounted similar to the Calfee and is without any bracing.
The Ventana also stops well, it also has visible chainstay and dropout flex. There is no means to flex the seatstay or entire frame since the brake caliper is dropout mounted on the lower suspension arm (swingarm). This bike sees very heavy braking in all forms of terrain, some low grip other times high grip. It is not uncommon to be on the brakes so hard to have them lock up or induce brake chatter in hacked entries to corners.
The best tandem disc brakes on a tandem we have owned that were cable operated were on the Fandango. Alex did a very good job of placing the caliper on the LS chainstay. The mounting perch is based on a 160 series mount but designed for a 203 rotor. Once installed, this brake is rock solid in feel and can easily skid the big 2.35 rear tire on asphalt.
In this teams experience it does make a difference.
PK
As for the cable run, if the bike does have an acceptable route, such as a diagonal frame tube, the alignment is pretty much perfect with the shortest cable route possible.
As evidence to compare, we have experience with three tandems with disc brakes. A Fandango 29 off-road tandem, a Ventana 26 full suspension off-road tandem andour Co-Motion Roadster with front and rear disc brakes.
The Co-Motion stops very well, but has obvious frame flex and torquing of the LS dropout. Not that I have seriously tried, but on dry pavement I am not convinced the Co-motion can skid the rear tire. It may but might be enough stress to damage the dropout with the leverage provided by the perch and radius of the brake. The caliper is mounted similar to the Calfee and is without any bracing.
The Ventana also stops well, it also has visible chainstay and dropout flex. There is no means to flex the seatstay or entire frame since the brake caliper is dropout mounted on the lower suspension arm (swingarm). This bike sees very heavy braking in all forms of terrain, some low grip other times high grip. It is not uncommon to be on the brakes so hard to have them lock up or induce brake chatter in hacked entries to corners.
The best tandem disc brakes on a tandem we have owned that were cable operated were on the Fandango. Alex did a very good job of placing the caliper on the LS chainstay. The mounting perch is based on a 160 series mount but designed for a 203 rotor. Once installed, this brake is rock solid in feel and can easily skid the big 2.35 rear tire on asphalt.
In this teams experience it does make a difference.
PK
05-08-13, 11:45 PM
#27
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The TRP Spyre, and Spyre SLC are now listed (but 'Out of Stock') at the TRP website, in a new category of Road Disc. This hopefully means that availability is imminent.
The cable-actuated HY/RD hydraulic apparently has lots of power. An early adopter volunteer is needed to determine if a tandem will make the reservoir fluid boil.
That lid on the reservoir looks like a version with aluminum cooling fins could be used.
The cable-actuated HY/RD hydraulic apparently has lots of power. An early adopter volunteer is needed to determine if a tandem will make the reservoir fluid boil.
That lid on the reservoir looks like a version with aluminum cooling fins could be used.
05-09-13, 12:33 AM
#28
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We are going to be an early adopter volunteer. I talked to Trp yesterday and they expect the brakes in by the end of the week and we are set to get a Hy/Rd. I was initially interested in the Spyre but after talking to them went with the hydraulic version. As we seem to be hard on brakes with the large steep descents we do so we will be good test dummies. We have melted Avids on Mt. Ventoux and melted the cable adjuster on a Bengal on Arthurs pass in New Zealand, we know how to get them hot. ( to be fair so did most other teams on these rides with us.) We are experienced with hydraulic brakes on our mountain tandems and love the power and modulation so if we can duplicate that on the road tandem it would be awesome. Supposedly the composite pistons don't transmit the heat which will help the fluid temps. The pads are interchangeable with Shimano pads and are semimetallic. I will be using a two piece Hope rotor as they seem to be rather impervious to warping. I am anxious to hear how the carbon rotors are working.
05-09-13, 07:15 PM
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I saw the TRP mechanicals this weekend. I liked what I saw but did not test ride them. It will be interesting to see if the hope two piece vented rotor will fit in them. I have been using the hope vented front and rear and have not melted anything on the Aavid bb7 since I went to the disc both front and back. I did melt parts when I only had the disc in back. I put the disc on the front before a trip to France last year and had no problems on the much feared Mt. Ventoux. In the past I was putting new pads on the rear disc every 1000-1200 miles, have not replaced front or rear pads since going to front and rear disc set up prior to the Mt Ventoux trip. I am thinking of going to a non vented two piece hope disc in the rear as it is not seeing any where near the heat build up it did when I had the standard caliper brake in front. I will occasionally get some rub out of the rear disc and I am thinking a thinner disc and the TRP will be less finicky. I have been amazed at the improvement in braking and durability since putting the disc up front, we now do downhills on the tandem that I am reluctant to do on a single.
05-09-13, 07:18 PM
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I'll take three: one for the tandem and two for the Volagi!. The Volagi stops just fine, but the Avid disc brake pads tend to rattle and interfere with the zen of the ride.
05-09-13, 08:39 PM
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First on-road reviews not so favorable: https://www.cyclingnews.com/features/...st-ride-review
Any worry about using the carbon-armed version, what with melting problems on BB7's? After all, "carbon" is just reinforced plastic ("CFRP" - Carbon Fiber Reinforced Polymer). It's one thing to melt the adjuster knob, quite another to melt the actuation arm...
Any worry about using the carbon-armed version, what with melting problems on BB7's? After all, "carbon" is just reinforced plastic ("CFRP" - Carbon Fiber Reinforced Polymer). It's one thing to melt the adjuster knob, quite another to melt the actuation arm...
05-10-13, 04:26 AM
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If they are a composite piston that doesn't transmit much heat, it must be staying in the disc instead. It doesn't magically disappear.
05-10-13, 08:08 AM
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Is that a bad thing? As long as the disc is able to dissipate the heat without warping, that is better the melting plastic pieces on the caliper or boiling fluid.
05-10-13, 11:09 PM
#37
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It is quiet, has good modulation, and seems to handle heat quite well. It is very civilized. The only problem is that with my Avid BB7 and organic pads it has neither grab nor power. The Highway 9 descent is never above 7%, and it wouldn't bring us to a stop without assistance from the front rim caliper (it wasn't as strong as my ee brake caliper on a carbon rim). I reckon it has only 50% of the power of the Shimano ICE.
For tandems, it might only be useful as a weight weenie measure as one rotor for tandems on gentle terrain wherein two disc brakes are overkill. It might be okay as an ultralight drag brake, as it does handles heat well, and does slow you down. But it is not a brake as in something to brings you to an abrupt halt.
Switching over to the Shimano ICE was soooo nice. Real braking power that dissipates heat. The ICE's power is great on keeping the stoker from wigging out on descents. An occasional twinge on the brake demonstrates to the stoker that things are under powerful control, she is not accelerating headlong to destruction. 89 more grams than the Kettle, but it allowed us to go so much faster with confidence.
I'll keep my Kettle, as Kettle is introducing SiCCC pads that apparently have better grab. I'll wait until I can get the Shimano pads for the TRP Spyre instead of Avid BB7. I'll give it another try then, but on rolling terrain and not a big descent. I figure that I can use the Kettle as part of a weight weenie set up for Low Key Hill Climbs (and for a scale pic on the What does your tandem weigh? thread).
If the SiCCC pads help part of the way, maybe the power-endowed TRP Hy/Rd could take it the rest of the way to being nearly okay.
05-16-13, 12:19 PM
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Talked to TRP today and they are still awaiting shipment of the new brakes from the factory in Taiwan. It appears they will not be available for a couple of weeks still.
05-16-13, 02:04 PM
#39
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Theres a web video, bench testing the Hy-Rd, repeatedly the brakes were set
till the disc was hot enough to give off a dull red glow, then released and this repeated..
said there was no fading..
The key, as described, is making the piston from an insulating material,
so as to not transfer so much heat to the fluid.
TRP contact address had me say : can you just sell a black one or a polished one
and not play Mix and match with the black reservoir cover on the polished one ,
and the polished cover on the black one ..
I'd prefer is just sit there in Black and not bring attention to itself. ..
till the disc was hot enough to give off a dull red glow, then released and this repeated..
said there was no fading..
The key, as described, is making the piston from an insulating material,
so as to not transfer so much heat to the fluid.
TRP contact address had me say : can you just sell a black one or a polished one
and not play Mix and match with the black reservoir cover on the polished one ,
and the polished cover on the black one ..
I'd prefer is just sit there in Black and not bring attention to itself. ..
05-20-13, 03:29 PM
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05-20-13, 10:11 PM
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This is exactly what I ordered:
Shimano Disc Brake Rotor RT-86 6-Bolt 203mm
(When you order bike stuff from Amazon, it doesn't show in the credit card bill so clearly as a bike purchase, to keep the stoker from wigging out).
Shimano Disc Brake Rotor RT-86 6-Bolt 203mm
(When you order bike stuff from Amazon, it doesn't show in the credit card bill so clearly as a bike purchase, to keep the stoker from wigging out).
05-21-13, 11:33 AM
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This is exactly what I ordered:
Shimano Disc Brake Rotor RT-86 6-Bolt 203mm
(When you order bike stuff from Amazon, it doesn't show in the credit card bill so clearly as a bike purchase, to keep the stoker from wigging out).
Shimano Disc Brake Rotor RT-86 6-Bolt 203mm
(When you order bike stuff from Amazon, it doesn't show in the credit card bill so clearly as a bike purchase, to keep the stoker from wigging out).
05-21-13, 11:52 AM
#43
Clipless in Coeur d'Alene
Well, I took an early adopter one for the team with the Kettle SiCCC-SFL Rotor. It is light, and it looks nice.
It is quiet, has good modulation, and seems to handle heat quite well. It is very civilized. The only problem is that with my Avid BB7 and organic pads it has neither grab nor power. The Highway 9 descent is never above 7%, and it wouldn't bring us to a stop without assistance from the front rim caliper (it wasn't as strong as my ee brake caliper on a carbon rim). I reckon it has only 50% of the power of the Shimano ICE.
For tandems, it might only be useful as a weight weenie measure as one rotor for tandems on gentle terrain wherein two disc brakes are overkill. It might be okay as an ultralight drag brake, as it does handles heat well, and does slow you down. But it is not a brake as in something to brings you to an abrupt halt.
Switching over to the Shimano ICE was soooo nice. Real braking power that dissipates heat. The ICE's power is great on keeping the stoker from wigging out on descents. An occasional twinge on the brake demonstrates to the stoker that things are under powerful control, she is not accelerating headlong to destruction. 89 more grams than the Kettle, but it allowed us to go so much faster with confidence.
I'll keep my Kettle, as Kettle is introducing SiCCC pads that apparently have better grab. I'll wait until I can get the Shimano pads for the TRP Spyre instead of Avid BB7. I'll give it another try then, but on rolling terrain and not a big descent. I figure that I can use the Kettle as part of a weight weenie set up for Low Key Hill Climbs (and for a scale pic on the What does your tandem weigh? thread).
If the SiCCC pads help part of the way, maybe the power-endowed TRP Hy/Rd could take it the rest of the way to being nearly okay.
It is quiet, has good modulation, and seems to handle heat quite well. It is very civilized. The only problem is that with my Avid BB7 and organic pads it has neither grab nor power. The Highway 9 descent is never above 7%, and it wouldn't bring us to a stop without assistance from the front rim caliper (it wasn't as strong as my ee brake caliper on a carbon rim). I reckon it has only 50% of the power of the Shimano ICE.
For tandems, it might only be useful as a weight weenie measure as one rotor for tandems on gentle terrain wherein two disc brakes are overkill. It might be okay as an ultralight drag brake, as it does handles heat well, and does slow you down. But it is not a brake as in something to brings you to an abrupt halt.
Switching over to the Shimano ICE was soooo nice. Real braking power that dissipates heat. The ICE's power is great on keeping the stoker from wigging out on descents. An occasional twinge on the brake demonstrates to the stoker that things are under powerful control, she is not accelerating headlong to destruction. 89 more grams than the Kettle, but it allowed us to go so much faster with confidence.
I'll keep my Kettle, as Kettle is introducing SiCCC pads that apparently have better grab. I'll wait until I can get the Shimano pads for the TRP Spyre instead of Avid BB7. I'll give it another try then, but on rolling terrain and not a big descent. I figure that I can use the Kettle as part of a weight weenie set up for Low Key Hill Climbs (and for a scale pic on the What does your tandem weigh? thread).
If the SiCCC pads help part of the way, maybe the power-endowed TRP Hy/Rd could take it the rest of the way to being nearly okay.
If anyone has a Centerlock compatible hub, they should opt for the Saint ICE version, as that has the extra heat dissipation fins.
Last edited by twocicle; 05-21-13 at 12:14 PM.
05-21-13, 06:38 PM
#44
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The TRP brakes are now in stock. I have a Hy/Rd in black with a 203 mm rotor on the way and will give a test report in a few days .
05-21-13, 06:45 PM
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05-21-13, 08:38 PMakexpress
The TRP brakes are now in stock. I have a Hy/Rd in black with a 203 mm rotor on the way and will give a test report in a few days .
The TRP brakes are now in stock. I have a Hy/Rd in black with a 203 mm rotor on the way and will give a test report in a few days .
05-21-13, 07:00 PM
#46
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Yes. I had talked to Brice and Dave prior to the brakes arriving from the factory. I had told them I was going to use it on a tandem with a 203 and they told me they could bundle it that way. When they called me today about the availability I ordered it bundled that way and a spare set of pads. As I am a fan of two piece rotors I am going to try it first with my Hope V2 rotor. I may also try a Ice rotor for comparison.
05-22-13, 01:58 PM
#48
Clipless in Coeur d'Alene
05-22-13, 06:50 PM
#49
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At $50, the ICE rotor is about the best performance upgrade bang-for-buck that I can think of, in comparison to steel rotor. Its power, modulation and heat management greatly enhance descending confidence. The ICE moniker is apropos, as it keeps not only the brake, but so too the stoker, cool.
05-23-13, 11:35 AM
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Gee, I had thought the comment was about the Kettle rotor too. I was thinking it was bad enough to have taken the early adopter hit on the carbon rotor, but then to be scolded about it!
At $50, the ICE rotor is about the best performance upgrade bang-for-buck that I can think of, in comparison to steel rotor. Its power, modulation and heat management greatly enhance descending confidence. The ICE moniker is apropos, as it keeps not only the brake, but so too the stoker, cool.
At $50, the ICE rotor is about the best performance upgrade bang-for-buck that I can think of, in comparison to steel rotor. Its power, modulation and heat management greatly enhance descending confidence. The ICE moniker is apropos, as it keeps not only the brake, but so too the stoker, cool.