Team Fab

Poor quality cables and housing could cause mushy as well.

You did not state if this was on a tandem or single. Long cable for rear of a tandem will not feel as good as a single.

LelandJT

It looks like the Spyre was intended to be used with the modern higher end Shimano levers that pull a little more cable than standard road levers.

ct-vt-trekker

Earlier this spring I installed a TRP Spyre on the rear of our 2008 Trek T1000 tandem. The bike has Shimano Tiagra 9sp 4503 brifters so these are the older type STI that pull less cable. The brakes are fantastic and there is plenty of pull. I did use very high quality compression less housing, although there is little housing in my install, about a foot in the back with less than 2 feet in the front. No helper spring needed as the brake return spring is plenty strong. I used the Jagwire sport pads as mentioned in this thread. Very happy with these brakes, thanks everyone for the suggestions!

B1KE

What's the verdict on Spyre vs Avid Bb5/BB7?

I currently have Avid BB5s and want to upgrade to Spyres. What sort of improved stopping power/modulation/level feel should I expect?

Do I really need compression less housing with Spyres as well? Currently I'm running Jagwire CEX cables.

twocicle

Spyre is an improvement, but not a massive one. Braking power slightly better, slightly lighter, and no plastic dials to melt. If you don't mind a few extra grams, the HyRd will deliver a lot more power.

Compressionless housing is always a plus with wire actuated brakes, but I never found it necessary to use when only handlebar and seatstay runs are required. If running housing the full length (lever to rear caliper), then I'd say yes, do compressionless for sure.

The Jagwire "superslick stainless" brake wire is quite good and available in long, tandem lengths. On our coupled tandem, I ended up using 2 single bike lengths of really stiff Shimano PTFE coated wire (the type provided with Shimano 11spd levers), joined with a DaVinci cable coupler.

B1KE

I ended up getting the Spyres but they feel very weak/mushy, even my Avid BB5s felt more responsive. Any idea what could be wrong?

dwmckee

Do you have them installed with good compression less housing?

twocicle

Since you just recently got the Spyre over the last couple days, obviously they are brand new. Did you perform a routine to bed in the pads, or just go ride?

B1KE

Yes I did, Ive done over 100km with them since. They feel like my avid bb5s when the pads are completely worn out. The modulation is really weak and the power increase is not linear. I will be returning these and going back to avid bb5s or bb7s

twocicle

Well, I did have the BB7 before and the Spyre worked noticeably better for us. Installs are never exactly the same, so I really can't say. Sorry.

B1KE

I know what you mean. If it helps I'm running shimano tiagra levers but Ive been experiencing alot of similar symptoms as to the poster in this thread.

TRP Spyre: meh...

I really want to like these brakes because I love the look of them but beyond looks power and modulation and feel are most important to me. Any advice on what I can do to make it work?

I e mailed Spyre and they recommended changing pads but that's a weak response as I'm not gonna spend extra money to further upgrade a brake set that was already supposed to be an upgrade.

twocicle

When you switched out the BB7 calipers, did you also switch out the Avid caliper adapter bracket? Avid adapters are a different height than standard due to the allowance for the CPS washers, etc. If you are still using the Avid adapters, then your pad height is probably not correct and not sitting fully within the rotor's braking surface area (would be too low with the Avid brackets).

You can try to clean pads or scuff them up, but personally I wouldn't bother going that route. Changing out the shipped TRP resin pads for a set of new standard Shimano resin pads is a good test. I never felt the need to go with sintered (metal) pads, but some people do use those for maximum bite and longer pad wear. Some of that choice determination is governed by riding style... near constant usage, or quick & hard. Resin pads tend not to hold up under constant braking.

BTW, I've long gone from the solid steel Avid rotors to types that have a separate brake surface and spider (ie: Shimano ICE XT rotor or Hope V2 floating rotor).

B1KE

I didn't use an adapter when I had the Avids and an adapter came with my Spyres but I didn't use it. I'm riding a 2014 Specialized Secteur Elite if that helps. Should I be using the adapter?

I also feel the modulation is really weak and not linear on the Spyres like it is on the avids, no matter how I adjust them. I have a feeling these are going back to be returned and I will be going back to Avids.

twocicle

I assumed you had a tandem which usually have a much larger rotor size, hence caliper adapters are needed for that.

B1KE

I see I do not

B1KE

I'm thinking it might be the resin pads causing the poor modulation and mushy feel, anyone experience anything similar or have more tips on how to get them working optimally?

gracehowler

Resin pads do break in fast in my opinion. Takes us less than fifty miles
R

Team Fab

Are the disks dirty? Clean them with contact or disk brake cleaner just to make sure that is not the source.

You should have more power than the tires can handle in those brakes.

Air in lines is also very common, bleed them several times while a friend taps the lines and joints to loosen any bubbles.

B1KE

What are the pros/cons of adding the adapter to the spyre brakes? Would it improve break power/ level pull?

Sorry if it's a noob question as I'm a beginner.

B1KE

I set mine up with Tiagra levers and get a very mushy feel aswell. Thinking of swapping the pads or going back to Avids.

fietsbob

High leverage/MA will feel 'Mushy' because of the force multiplication of that Leverage..

oldacura

Sorry but I am very late to this discussion. We run rim brakes. We have tried an Arai rear drum but after a while found it unnecessary. On our "normal" rides, I rarely brake. If I'm braking, I didn't plan very well. When we have done big descents with lots of switchbacks (needing to scrub speed frequently), the rim brakes have worked pretty well. In some extreme cases, I became concerned about the rims getting hot and stopping to allow them to cool off. I really don't know if my concern was warranted - there was no indication of a problem.

So, for those who have elected to go with disc brakes, what are the reasons? From what I understand they are heavier, more expensive and more complex than rim brakes (correct?). For hydraulic disc brakes, there is a concern of boiling the fluid and the wheel cylinder - and possibly melting plastic parts. For a cable operated disc brake, one still has the long run of cable from the lever.

With all of these compromises, there must be significant benefits. Can someone enlighten me? Has anyone done an apples-to-apples comparison of rim -vs- disc brakes on a tandem: Similar bikes, similar teams, same descent? is this a solution looking for a problem?

joe@vwvortex

I think a lot depends on your riding style and team weight. Just like anything - the heavier it is or the faster it goes - the more braking power it will need to stop. When I first test rode tandems - I did a little comparison. I used the rear brake only on a hill - first caliper, then v-brake and then disc. The disc stopped in the shortest distance and had good feel. So I opted to buy my tandem with a rear disc and V-brakes in the front as front discs weren't widely available at the end of 2004. I subsequently went to front and rear discs and the stopping power is great and matches my riding style and the fact that we are a 350lb team. If we were a 200lb team riding and didn't do lots of high speed descents - I'm not entirely sure I'd need dual discs.

Carbonello

Wow, where to start. I will say I run rim brakes and occasionally will install my Arai drum brake if I plan to do a long twisting descent. Disk brakes are more powerful than rim brakes. Most people like the "modulation" as well. You should borrow a bike, even a Mt bike, to try them. Some teams are more comfortable keeping the speed low on descents so they brake more. As others have mentioned, technique plays a part, pumping the brakes can allow the brakes to cool but some teams feel better holding the brakes on for long periods. Next time you do that big descent with switchbacks, stop and feel your rims but be careful not to burn yourself.

oldacura

We are about a 290# team. We used to do a lot of big descents. Almost all of the paved mountain passes in Colorado. Less so recently. In my experience the big descents aren't as demanding as smaller steeper ones with many 180 degree switchbacks. Like the ones that have recommended 20 MPH speeds for cars. Then, we have to brake hard & frequently. This dumps a lot of heat into the brake whether it is a rim or a disc. On big descents with big sweeping curves, we can let the speeds get up to 40+ MPH and let wind drag do the braking. I realize that a disc can get much hotter than a rim without adverse consequences but the rim is a much higher volume of metal and it is moving through the air much faster. As I said above, there has been only one occasion when we were descending a steep road with tight switchbacks when I became concerned & stopped the bike to let the rims cool. After a few seconds I touched the rim briefly. It was hot but I didn't burn myself. I really don't know at what temp the tube or tire would start to fail.

My mountain bike has XTR hydraulic discs. My old mountain bike had V brakes. I think the discs work a bit better and modulate a bit better but I don't think of them as a game changer.

The reason for my interest is that we are considering a new tandem and trying to decide if discs are in order. Thanks.