Hi all,

LHT 26" 60cm and a brooks flyer are on the way. Butterfly handlebars, a rear rack and toeclipped pedals, v-brakes, Schwalbe marathon Plus,

I would love friction shifters on the downtube in my list have decided against it, please feel free to convince me I should go with it.

My budget for the whole bike (Frame and saddle included, thats €550 gone) is €1500.
My main problems are knowing which parts are suitable for a tour through europe, turkey, india china s.e. asia, and which parts are compatible.
Part Recomendations would be greatly appreciated. Please let me know if my stated budget for each part is unrealistic. The other parts such as stems seatposts etc all seem to be pretty self explanatory (if that aint too cocky for a beginner to say)

Complete wheels €150 ish Going to wheel builder seems pricey.
Crankset = Shimano Deore M590 3 x 9-fach
Bottom Bracket = Shimano UN-55, Square taper interface. 68 x 118mm
Front Derailleur = Shimano Sora FD-3503
Rear Derailleur = Shimano XT Schaltwerk RD-M771 (what length would I need?)
Cog or Cassette = Shimano Cassette HG50 9 11-32
Chain = KMC - X9-73 9-fach
Brakes = Shimano LX BR-T670
Brake Levers = Shimano LX BL-T670-B
Shifters = Shimano Deore M590

Ta in advance

AlbinoPanda

Friction shifting 9 speeds is certainly possible but I found it to be annoying when I was tried or it was rainy. If you want downtube shifters you can still get the 9 speed shimano ones from chain reaction cycles for a decent price, they have the friction mode if you need to use it in case of a bent derailleur or some other mechanical issue. I have a bike with downtubes and a bike with STI and I like them both fine but the integrated shifters are nicer when I'm riding harder and "racier" for lack of a better term.

The M590 crank won't work with a square taper bottom bracket, you don't need to buy a UN-55.

Trekking bars are well suited to a thumb shifter conversion with the 8 or 9 speed levers from bar end shifters ..
[2 different right levers for the cassette indexing.]



But, my bike with Trekking/butterfly Bars have a Rohloff Hub Grip shifter on them and Magura HS33 brakes .

I ride with friction shifters with 9s without problems.
I'm not sure if it is the shift gates or what, but I think the more gears, the easier it is to shift. Just about anywhere you put the shifter, it lands in a gear.

I'm not sure I'd ride with downtube shifters and flat MTB bars... (is that what you're putting on?) It just seems like an odd combo. With a road bike, you're already leaning forward, and it is easy to reach the downtube.

If you want simplicity, find some of those clamp-on thumb shifters (very cheap if you buy used).

I friction shift using Paul Thumbies on the bar tops, as that's where I am most of the time anyway. Note that this makes the handlebar real estate very tight. I had an arkel medium bag, the thumbies, cross brakes, a computer, and my iphone 6 (quadlock). No room for a light, so right now I've removed the handlebar bag and am using an Ortlieb trunk bag. Not quite as convenient, but close.

I just stacked 2 stems the bar bag mount on the lower, WB Bicycle Gallery: Robert Clark's Koga Miyata WTR

if you want more room for gadgets the lower stem can have a wider tubing piece in it.

"The M590 crank won't work with a square taper bottom bracket, you don't need to buy a UN-55."
Thanks for the heads up, saved me some trouble down the line right there

Yes that makes sense, I'll look into that.

What about just buying a groupset, I notice everyone seems to mix and match, but I would've thought that Deore groupset has been designed to work as a whole, why doesnoone go in for these?

I will say that I have fairly recently used downtube shifters on the bike I rode across the Southern Tier of the US and was very happy with them. That said I really don't understand why you would go with friction shifters. I have found that indexed shifters are easy to set up and work pretty flawlessly. I have been using them since the late 1980s and have not had the slightest bit of trouble with them. A friction mode as a fall back might be nice if you bend a derailleur or derailleur hanger.

It is your bike and you should use what you like, but when you say "Butterfly handlebars, a rear rack and toeclipped pedals, v-brakes, Schwalbe marathon Plus", other than the rear rack and v-brakes you seem to be specing the items that I specifically disliked when I used them.

this forum is not Everyone.. Most cyclists dont read this .. all you See is where you Look..

Not sure what that means, reads like some bar stool philosophy to me. All I meant was I haven't seen a single build (on this forum or anywhere else) in which a groupset is used, and was wondering why (or indeed if) that was the case.

Groupsets are great if everything in the groupset is exactly what you want and you can afford it. The fact of the matter is that's not the case for most people building their own rig.

Hi folks,

After lengthy research and a few tips above I have come up with this. It would be great of you could cast your eyes over it and let me know if there are any compatibility issues, or if I have spent too much at some parts, and too little on others....
The crankset I aint too chuffed about for instance

Bottom Bracket----- Shimano BB-UN55 Square Taper, 122 mm
Cranckset----- Shimano Acera FC-M391 with trouser guard, 22-32-44, 175mm, 3x9
Read Derailleur---- Shimano XT RD-M772-SGS, 9 speed
Front Derailleur----- Shimano Deore XT FD-M770 Top Swing, 28,6mm clamp
Bar End Shifter---- Shimano Dura Ace SL-SB77, 2-/3 speed front, 9 speed rear
Shift Cable--- Jagwire Universal Sport Shift XL kit
Cassette--- Shimano Alivio CS-HG400, 9 speed, 11-32
Chain-- Shimano CN-HG53


Headset---- Cane Creek 40 EC34
Stem--- Xtreme Pro Adjust-AH, 110mm, 25,4mm clamp
Spacers---- Xtreme Alu Tri Spacer, silver
Handlebar---- Nitto B-135 AA Randonneur, 450mm, 25,4mm clamp
Levers------ Tektro RL520 Drop Bar
Brakes------ Avid Single Digit 7 V-Brake
Brake Cable ------ Shimano Road Brake Cable Set with PTFE Inner Cable
Brake Cable Adjuster---- Shimano SM-CB70

Thanks in advance

Yeah, that crank is crappy, get one of these, they're cheap as.

wiggle.co.nz | Shimano FC-M590 Deore 9-Speed 48/36/26T Triple Chainset | Chainsets

wiggle.co.nz | Shimano FC-M590 Deore 9-Speed 44/32/22T Triple Chainset | Chainsets

wiggle.co.nz | Shimano XT M770 Hollowtech II Triple Chainset | Chainsets

A hollowtech II BB comes on and off with a $10 tool that can be a torqued up piece of clothing in a pinch. The crank comes off with an allen key and a $2 tool that weighs nothing and could be a bunch of sticks in a pinch.

I can totally see the merit of Square Taper for touring- but only if you're going to get something you definitely won't have to adjust- a better sealed BB (maybe even phil) with a very nice old crank and never have to touch it. ST is not the budget option IMO. Carrying a large adjustable wrench is not viable and not being able to fix your crank could be disastrous in some places.

You don't need to get cables, the DA levers come with them, ends prepped & ferrules installed (thanks shimano!) also a super cool 90s box with marbling effect. Also they're awesome quality, you will be pleased. Get a KMC chain- they're the best- they even make Shimano's chains. Also they have a quick link which makes things easier unlike the Shimano ones.

Hey thanks for the information that crank does look much better. Question though, won't you be needing a wrench in case a drive side spoke breaks and you need to remove the casette?

EDIT: Ah I just read about mini casette Locks. Do they work on every set up?

I think almost everyone would have the medium adjustable you'd need to take a cassette off, so just carrying the small cassette tool & borrowing a wrench on the road would be fine. You don't need a chain whip either. You can just wrap a towel or something around the cassette.

The large adjustable (+ a heavy BB lockring wrench + a pin spanner) for a square taper BB aren't household items, they would be harder to find.