What gearing do you run when loaded?
#1
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What gearing do you run when loaded?
I have been buying some parts to get a new to me bike optimized for my size and am hoping to go on a 1 week tour through rural Quebec this fall.
It is a 1991 Miyata 1000 LT. The current gearing is front 28-44-50 (Biopace) and the rear has a 12-28 cassette. I was thinking that a 32 or 34 granny gear might be better for me if I get into any hills.(Plan on carrying about 30-35 pounds) . Hopefully the derailleur and shifters can handle that
ANy tips appreciated.
Here is a shot of the bike after adding new bars, pedals, stem,brake levers fenders and seat. I am really enjoying riding this bike as of now. (The cost is more than I anticipated when I started….but why stop now if you like it?)
It is a 1991 Miyata 1000 LT. The current gearing is front 28-44-50 (Biopace) and the rear has a 12-28 cassette. I was thinking that a 32 or 34 granny gear might be better for me if I get into any hills.(Plan on carrying about 30-35 pounds) . Hopefully the derailleur and shifters can handle that
ANy tips appreciated.
Here is a shot of the bike after adding new bars, pedals, stem,brake levers fenders and seat. I am really enjoying riding this bike as of now. (The cost is more than I anticipated when I started….but why stop now if you like it?)
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Looks like the cage on your derailleur is pretty long. Keep the chainrings you have and just put on a 11-32 cassette. That'll give you a low enough granny gear to climb anything.
#3
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Everyones different.
I couldn't tour on your gear range as having done it in my youth, I've worn out my knees.
Suggest you "consider" ditching the front chain-rings and cassette unless the land is perfectly flat where you ride.
I've always found low gears are much more important on a touring bike but YMMV.
Even with a cassette with 32 or 34T I'd be wanting a front granny of around 22 or 24T and a middle in the mid to low 30's.
But thats just me as I hate pushing my bike up hills and theres plenty of them where I ride.
I couldn't tour on your gear range as having done it in my youth, I've worn out my knees.
Suggest you "consider" ditching the front chain-rings and cassette unless the land is perfectly flat where you ride.
I've always found low gears are much more important on a touring bike but YMMV.
Even with a cassette with 32 or 34T I'd be wanting a front granny of around 22 or 24T and a middle in the mid to low 30's.
But thats just me as I hate pushing my bike up hills and theres plenty of them where I ride.
#4
Senior Member
suggest you load up your bags with groceries and then find some hills.
imagine you'll be fine on flats and coasting downhill, but uphill with
those gears and that load..........
for me.....biopace is just crazy, i'd switch to round rings.
the front is too big for loaded........i'd go with 22-32-44 or whatever
comes with a standard mtb setup.
the back is to small for loaded.......i'd go with a 32 or 34. don't matter
what the little cog is, 11 or 12, since i'd never use it anyways.
imagine you'll be fine on flats and coasting downhill, but uphill with
those gears and that load..........
for me.....biopace is just crazy, i'd switch to round rings.
the front is too big for loaded........i'd go with 22-32-44 or whatever
comes with a standard mtb setup.
the back is to small for loaded.......i'd go with a 32 or 34. don't matter
what the little cog is, 11 or 12, since i'd never use it anyways.
#5
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I think the OP is a bit late asking for advice. That bike is a 57cm and he is like 6'1" ??? That high stem is a death trap. IMO
Looks like them goofball LHTs. Great bike for the right size guy.
Otherwise a 32T rear would be fine, biopace I dunno. Chopping the high end 50T usually only gives you useless stupid duplicate ratios.
My Rohloff was 23 to 120 GI pushing 130 lbs. I was passing farm wagons, some dump trucks going uphill and Honda 150s going downhill. LOL I'll leave the 92 GI highs for the sisters of the poor.
Looks like them goofball LHTs. Great bike for the right size guy.
Otherwise a 32T rear would be fine, biopace I dunno. Chopping the high end 50T usually only gives you useless stupid duplicate ratios.
My Rohloff was 23 to 120 GI pushing 130 lbs. I was passing farm wagons, some dump trucks going uphill and Honda 150s going downhill. LOL I'll leave the 92 GI highs for the sisters of the poor.
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I'd just get on the bike and ride. You'll quickly figure out what feels right to you. Each person is different.
Load your bike up and see how it feels. What kinds of hills do you have planned?
For me: (28-44-50) (12-28) would be way too low gearing for all but the most extreme riding.
But, I suppose it never hurts to have a couple "escape gears".
One other thing. That looks like one of the basic Blackburn racks. Great, sturdy racks. However, at least the old style panniers tend to get a little floppy on the rear which can be problematic. Just make sure your panniers aren't hitting the spokes.
Load your bike up and see how it feels. What kinds of hills do you have planned?
For me: (28-44-50) (12-28) would be way too low gearing for all but the most extreme riding.
But, I suppose it never hurts to have a couple "escape gears".
One other thing. That looks like one of the basic Blackburn racks. Great, sturdy racks. However, at least the old style panniers tend to get a little floppy on the rear which can be problematic. Just make sure your panniers aren't hitting the spokes.
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44/34/24 x 11-32 driving 26x1.75" or 26 x 2.0" tires. Might go fatter for an upcoming tour.
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That's not true for everyone. You're talking about a 28 running on a 32. That's not much of a low gear. I rode across the country in '97 when I was super fit (at the time I did the local training races and I rode sub 5 hour centuries) and that wasn't low enough. I carried reasonably light weight gear and thought that the gearing was not quite low enough.
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Here is the thread, https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...nversions.html
Last edited by bikemig; 09-14-15 at 06:49 AM.
#11
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I have been buying some parts to get a new to me bike optimized for my size and am hoping to go on a 1 week tour through rural Quebec this fall.
It is a 1991 Miyata 1000 LT. The current gearing is front 28-44-50 (Biopace) and the rear has a 12-28 cassette. I was thinking that a 32 or 34 granny gear might be better for me if I get into any hills.(Plan on carrying about 30-35 pounds) . Hopefully the derailleur and shifters can handle that
ANy tips appreciated.
Here is a shot of the bike after adding new bars, pedals, stem,brake levers fenders and seat. I am really enjoying riding this bike as of now. (The cost is more than I anticipated when I started….but why stop now if you like it?)
It is a 1991 Miyata 1000 LT. The current gearing is front 28-44-50 (Biopace) and the rear has a 12-28 cassette. I was thinking that a 32 or 34 granny gear might be better for me if I get into any hills.(Plan on carrying about 30-35 pounds) . Hopefully the derailleur and shifters can handle that
ANy tips appreciated.
Here is a shot of the bike after adding new bars, pedals, stem,brake levers fenders and seat. I am really enjoying riding this bike as of now. (The cost is more than I anticipated when I started….but why stop now if you like it?)
The biggest pay off in terms of gearing is changing out the chainrings or the crank but that's expensive.
With your current crank, you can drop to a 24 up front but the problem is that you will want to change the middle ring as well to get some evenly spaced gears. Changing 2 chainrings isn't cheap and will probably run you around $60 or so. The 24 tooth inner should be steel not aluminum and 74 bcd steel chain rings are typically not cheap. The outer rings are 110 bcd and may run you around $30 or so per ring, perhaps less if you shop around.
The biopace rings are fine but you may not want to mix round with biopace which means that you will need to change all 3 rings which is expensive.
The other option is to get a deore trekking crank with 44-32-22 rings. I currently am running a crankset with a 44-32-22 rings and 11-28 on the back (8 speed) on a touring bike with 26 inch wheels. My low is right around 20 inches and that's pretty good.
My vote is to go for a trekking crank rather than swap out all 3 rings on your existing crank.
Last edited by bikemig; 09-14-15 at 07:14 AM.
#12
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Is the rural area of Quebec flat, mountainous, or rolling hills?
Thatll make a big difference on if you need to change gearing. 28-32 gearing may work fine if you are riding mostly flat roads with small gradual elevation changes.
Thatll make a big difference on if you need to change gearing. 28-32 gearing may work fine if you are riding mostly flat roads with small gradual elevation changes.
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That's not true for everyone. You're talking about a 28 running on a 32. That's not much of a low gear. I rode across the country in '97 when I was super fit (at the time I did the local training races and I rode sub 5 hour centuries) and that wasn't low enough. I carried reasonably light weight gear and thought that the gearing was not quite low enough.
28x32 is pretty darn low. How much lower would you go?
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I would drop in a 42-32-22 crankset to begin with. That is the biggest bang for your buck.
If you want to go further, drop in a 14-32 or 13-34 cassette depending on what your rear derailleur can handle.
This would get you down around the 16-17 gear inch range.
If you want to go further, drop in a 14-32 or 13-34 cassette depending on what your rear derailleur can handle.
This would get you down around the 16-17 gear inch range.
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I'm also older and I want to be kind to my knees. A 28 running on a 32 gives you a 23.6 inch low gear. The OP has a 110/74 bcd crank so he can run a 24 tooth inner giving him a 20.3 inch low gear. That's a significant drop.
I'm building up a bike to do a lot of touring out in the Pacific NW and that's probably what I will end up using (a steel 24 tooth inner running on a 32 in the rear).
#16
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Rohloff .. 16: 38, 26" wheel , 16:53 20" wheel ..
My derailleur bike 50:13 , to a 24:34 . 622-35 tire-wheels.
My derailleur bike 50:13 , to a 24:34 . 622-35 tire-wheels.
#17
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DonValley (I assume you are from TO)
I will start off by saying that it is very common to get comments like "oh, that gearing is fine" etc etc.
I would urge you to consider the number of comments here that strongly suggest lower gearing, vs those saying it is fine. Its the same in bike stores, it is very common for young, fit guys in their 20s that know it all to tell you a bikes gearing is "fine" for touring, I've seen it for 30 years, often in bike stores this view is also from folks who havent toured loaded either, so just take these views with a grain of salt.
So yes, I am in the "you want to lower the gearing" camp and back it up with lots of experience.
I have a touring bike from almost exactly the same year as this bike, toured on it a lot. 7 speeds, but with a 50/40/28 and a 13-30 that gave about 25 gear inches.
gear inches is a term that gives you an exact black and white number of your gearing, a gear inch calculator like this:
Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator
will give you a g.i. number for each of your gears, fill in the appropriate stuff, wheel size, tire size, change the doohicky to "gear inches" , put in your crank and cassette numbers and you will get a chart of your bikes exact gearing in gear inches. Make a screen shot, save it and print it for reference.
My first tour fully loaded in 90 or 91 I had too much stuff, probably 50lbs, I had the stock 28 granny and 30 rear, this gave that bike 25 gear inches.
The steep hills were murder, no fun, so I learned a lesson.
I changed the 28 granny to a 24t and brought the gear inches down to 21.4 Voila, made all the difference in the world plus I took less weight next time and did many trips with that bike with 21.4 gear inches and it worked very well.
As mentioned by others, you will have to load up your panniers and see how it goes with your gearing.
Easiest change as mentioned is to put on a 24t granny, but then the jump to 44 mid is really too much. My old 24t to 40t jump was a lot too, so to repeat what others said, if you change out the granny to a 24 and the mid ring to a 36 or whatever, the cost would and probably will be more than buying a new deore 44/32/22.
The only issue with doing this entire crank change is to find out is if your existing axel length will work with a 44/32/22 crank, you should get an answer at good bike store for a specific crank and your bike, they will need to see your bike to give you an answer. If not, you'd have to change the bottom bracket/axle and there will be a cost to that also, so get the quotes from a few stores (more than one cuz you can get wrong answers easily) so perhaps just changing the mid and granny rings would be cheaper.
I know that 13-30 cassettes are still made in 7 speed, but you could look into what is available that goes up to 32 or 34, but again, as mentioned, you'd have to get a proper knowledgable answer to if your rear derailleur can handle more than 30.
I'd start with asking for chainring prices, dont go fancy, just go with cheapest, will be fine. Just remember, ask for 110/74 bcd chainrings, this is the bolt pattern of your crank. You will see with internet searches that some of these are pricey, search and search again, and ask at a well established bike stores that have been around a while with experienced parts guys or mechanics.
finally, Im from Montreal, where are you planning to ride?
For carrying 35lbs or so, the old adage of having a touring bike with gearing of about 20-100 gear inches works very well, this is what my experience has shown me. Even with a mountain crank 42 or 44/32/22 you will get nice low gears AND perfectly useable gears for the vast majority of riding at 15-25kph that we do most of the day.
bottom line is that with lower gearing, you will enjoy your touring experience, and depending on your age and fitness, your knees and everything will enjoy it much much more also.
Lower gearing is a win-win, no downside.
If you are from Montreal, get back to me here and I can suggest good stores to go to.
I will start off by saying that it is very common to get comments like "oh, that gearing is fine" etc etc.
I would urge you to consider the number of comments here that strongly suggest lower gearing, vs those saying it is fine. Its the same in bike stores, it is very common for young, fit guys in their 20s that know it all to tell you a bikes gearing is "fine" for touring, I've seen it for 30 years, often in bike stores this view is also from folks who havent toured loaded either, so just take these views with a grain of salt.
So yes, I am in the "you want to lower the gearing" camp and back it up with lots of experience.
I have a touring bike from almost exactly the same year as this bike, toured on it a lot. 7 speeds, but with a 50/40/28 and a 13-30 that gave about 25 gear inches.
gear inches is a term that gives you an exact black and white number of your gearing, a gear inch calculator like this:
Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator
will give you a g.i. number for each of your gears, fill in the appropriate stuff, wheel size, tire size, change the doohicky to "gear inches" , put in your crank and cassette numbers and you will get a chart of your bikes exact gearing in gear inches. Make a screen shot, save it and print it for reference.
My first tour fully loaded in 90 or 91 I had too much stuff, probably 50lbs, I had the stock 28 granny and 30 rear, this gave that bike 25 gear inches.
The steep hills were murder, no fun, so I learned a lesson.
I changed the 28 granny to a 24t and brought the gear inches down to 21.4 Voila, made all the difference in the world plus I took less weight next time and did many trips with that bike with 21.4 gear inches and it worked very well.
As mentioned by others, you will have to load up your panniers and see how it goes with your gearing.
Easiest change as mentioned is to put on a 24t granny, but then the jump to 44 mid is really too much. My old 24t to 40t jump was a lot too, so to repeat what others said, if you change out the granny to a 24 and the mid ring to a 36 or whatever, the cost would and probably will be more than buying a new deore 44/32/22.
The only issue with doing this entire crank change is to find out is if your existing axel length will work with a 44/32/22 crank, you should get an answer at good bike store for a specific crank and your bike, they will need to see your bike to give you an answer. If not, you'd have to change the bottom bracket/axle and there will be a cost to that also, so get the quotes from a few stores (more than one cuz you can get wrong answers easily) so perhaps just changing the mid and granny rings would be cheaper.
I know that 13-30 cassettes are still made in 7 speed, but you could look into what is available that goes up to 32 or 34, but again, as mentioned, you'd have to get a proper knowledgable answer to if your rear derailleur can handle more than 30.
I'd start with asking for chainring prices, dont go fancy, just go with cheapest, will be fine. Just remember, ask for 110/74 bcd chainrings, this is the bolt pattern of your crank. You will see with internet searches that some of these are pricey, search and search again, and ask at a well established bike stores that have been around a while with experienced parts guys or mechanics.
finally, Im from Montreal, where are you planning to ride?
For carrying 35lbs or so, the old adage of having a touring bike with gearing of about 20-100 gear inches works very well, this is what my experience has shown me. Even with a mountain crank 42 or 44/32/22 you will get nice low gears AND perfectly useable gears for the vast majority of riding at 15-25kph that we do most of the day.
bottom line is that with lower gearing, you will enjoy your touring experience, and depending on your age and fitness, your knees and everything will enjoy it much much more also.
Lower gearing is a win-win, no downside.
If you are from Montreal, get back to me here and I can suggest good stores to go to.
#18
Senior Member
ps, regarding your 44t mid ring being big, and about changing chainrings, you could also go to some bike co-ops or used bike places and the chances might be good to find a used 40t or smaller in good shape, as well as a 24t. You just wouldnt want to buy something pretty worn to begin with, but its worth looking, would be cheaper and there might be stuff out there.
my experience riding loaded with a 40 or 39t is that its ok, but with long inclines or headwinds, a smaller ring like a 36 is going to be better all around and a 36 specifically is one that you would be in for majority of riding.
There is a very good chance that changing both these rings would require no change in your front derailleur. It was no issue when I went from a 28 to a 24. I have recently changed a 30 granny to a 26t on more than one recent bikes with no issues, didnt have to touch a thing with the fds.
my experience riding loaded with a 40 or 39t is that its ok, but with long inclines or headwinds, a smaller ring like a 36 is going to be better all around and a 36 specifically is one that you would be in for majority of riding.
There is a very good chance that changing both these rings would require no change in your front derailleur. It was no issue when I went from a 28 to a 24. I have recently changed a 30 granny to a 26t on more than one recent bikes with no issues, didnt have to touch a thing with the fds.
#19
Senior Member
...For carrying 35lbs or so, the old adage of having a touring bike with gearing of about 20-100 gear inches works very well, this is what my experience has shown me. Even with a mountain crank 42 or 44/32/22 you will get nice low gears AND perfectly useable gears for the vast majority of riding at 15-25kph that we do most of the day.
Brad
#20
Senior Member
I have an 87 miyata 1000 and I used a 48 36 24 setup on the front. It worked well a 13 34 freewheel it encouraged me to pack lighter too.
#21
Senior Member
DonValley, thought I'd attach these old gearing charts from my old bike very similar to your bike.
charts are with orig 28t granny, and then with 24t. Both with the 7 speed 13-30 and 28mm tires.
Slightly larger tires (32 or whatever) will bring the gear inch numbers up slightly.
the 21 g.i. that works for me on paved roads with reasonable gradients (maybe up to 15%) worked for me at 25 years old and at 50 years old with about 40lbs of stuff. I'm a skinny guy who doesnt mind climbing and have done a fair amount of it.
I've biked in areas with much steeper hills and would want lower than 19 g.i. that I have on another bike. Travelled in Latin America with about 25lbs or a bit more and 19.5 g.i. was at the limit on some of the really steep stuff, and there were the odd bonkers grades of 20%+ that I reckon that you'd want much lower, especially if you have more like 40lbs.
did these using the Sheldon Brown Gear Calculator I linked to.
charts are with orig 28t granny, and then with 24t. Both with the 7 speed 13-30 and 28mm tires.
Slightly larger tires (32 or whatever) will bring the gear inch numbers up slightly.
the 21 g.i. that works for me on paved roads with reasonable gradients (maybe up to 15%) worked for me at 25 years old and at 50 years old with about 40lbs of stuff. I'm a skinny guy who doesnt mind climbing and have done a fair amount of it.
I've biked in areas with much steeper hills and would want lower than 19 g.i. that I have on another bike. Travelled in Latin America with about 25lbs or a bit more and 19.5 g.i. was at the limit on some of the really steep stuff, and there were the odd bonkers grades of 20%+ that I reckon that you'd want much lower, especially if you have more like 40lbs.
did these using the Sheldon Brown Gear Calculator I linked to.
#22
Senior Member
Everyones different.
I couldn't tour on your gear range as having done it in my youth, I've worn out my knees.
Suggest you "consider" ditching the front chain-rings and cassette unless the land is perfectly flat where you ride.
I've always found low gears are much more important on a touring bike but YMMV.
Even with a cassette with 32 or 34T I'd be wanting a front granny of around 22 or 24T and a middle in the mid to low 30's.
But thats just me as I hate pushing my bike up hills and theres plenty of them where I ride.
I couldn't tour on your gear range as having done it in my youth, I've worn out my knees.
Suggest you "consider" ditching the front chain-rings and cassette unless the land is perfectly flat where you ride.
I've always found low gears are much more important on a touring bike but YMMV.
Even with a cassette with 32 or 34T I'd be wanting a front granny of around 22 or 24T and a middle in the mid to low 30's.
But thats just me as I hate pushing my bike up hills and theres plenty of them where I ride.
I never use the top gears and spend plenty of time in the lowest of my IGH hub.
Likely because I simply coast down hills taking in the view whilst trying to ignore the noisy clicking of my IHG.
I spin around the mid 90's rpm in most gears except really steep hills.
Last edited by rifraf; 09-14-15 at 12:12 PM.
#23
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this is my favorite gear calculator site:
HTML5 Gear Calculator
HTML5 Gear Calculator
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So long. Been nice knowing you BF.... to all the friends I've made here and in real life... its been great. But this place needs an enema.
So long. Been nice knowing you BF.... to all the friends I've made here and in real life... its been great. But this place needs an enema.
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#25
Senior Member
this is my favorite gear calculator site:
HTML5 Gear Calculator
HTML5 Gear Calculator
Thanks for the link