Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Touring
Reload this Page >

11-30 vs 11-34 Shimano 10 Speed - Would I notice a real difference on hills?

Search
Notices
Touring Have a dream to ride a bike across your state, across the country, or around the world? Self-contained or fully supported? Trade ideas, adventures, and more in our bicycle touring forum.

11-30 vs 11-34 Shimano 10 Speed - Would I notice a real difference on hills?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-18-15, 11:22 PM
  #1  
Fred E Fenders
Thread Starter
 
fthomas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Again! Philippines & S. California
Posts: 1,453

Bikes: Jamis Aurora Elite

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
11-30 vs 11-34 Shimano 10 Speed - Would I notice a real difference on hills?

I recently purchased a Jamis Aurora Elite. Like the bike and still need to work on some fit issues (the saddle is going to have to be changed) and am thinking of switching out the cassette to a 11-34 ten speed.

Will I see that much of a difference on hills?
__________________
F Thomas

"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving."
Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
fthomas is offline  
Old 09-18-15, 11:59 PM
  #2  
Non omnino gravis
 
DrIsotope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: SoCal, USA!
Posts: 8,553

Bikes: Nekobasu, Pandicorn, Lakitu

Mentioned: 119 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4905 Post(s)
Liked 1,731 Times in 958 Posts
I swapped out an 11-28 Ultegra in favor of an 11-32 XT, and yeah, there's a significant difference. I would have gone with an 11-34, but I didn't like the ratios in between compared to the 11-32 (the gear right below the 32 is a 28, so I know the feel.)
__________________
DrIsotope is offline  
Old 09-19-15, 12:40 AM
  #3  
Slow Rider
 
bwgride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Georgia, USA
Posts: 1,043
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Yes, especially up hill with a load. You can calculate distance traveled here

Bicycle gear inch calculator
bwgride is offline  
Old 09-19-15, 03:17 AM
  #4  
Banned.
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Uncertain
Posts: 8,651
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Yes, that's a difference of over 13%, it would be very noticeable. Personally I'm not a big fan of the gaps between the ratios on that cassette, but if you want more help at the bottom end that'll give you it.
chasm54 is offline  
Old 09-19-15, 07:22 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,207

Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.

Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3461 Post(s)
Liked 1,466 Times in 1,144 Posts
Will your rear derailleur take it?

If you do that, you might want to have a slightly longer chain. While your existing chain should work fine, if you ever accidentally shifted into your largest chainring and largest rear cog, that is when you might regret not having added a few links or replacing the chain.
Tourist in MSN is offline  
Old 09-19-15, 11:23 AM
  #6  
Miles to Go
 
timdow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 711

Bikes: 2022 Juiced Crosscurrent X, 2022 Fuji Touring, 1998 Schwinn Moab (drop bar conversion), 2010 LHT (Stolen)

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 151 Post(s)
Liked 145 Times in 95 Posts
Your derailleur is "medium cage" and is advertised to only shift up to a 32T cog, but I read that it will shift a 34T.

I don't understand why a bike of this type is fitted with a 30/39/50 crankset. After sorting out the cassette if you still find your gearing is too high for the load you want to carry, you may want to look into changing the small ring. Take a look at: 74 mm BCD Road and Mountain Bicycle Chainrings (Chainwheels) from Harris Cyclery .
timdow is offline  
Old 09-19-15, 11:41 AM
  #7  
Disco Infiltrator
 
Darth Lefty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,446

Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem

Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3126 Post(s)
Liked 2,105 Times in 1,369 Posts
Originally Posted by timdow
I don't understand why a bike of this type is fitted with a 30/39/50 crankset.
Shift ratios for two step gearing. I agree a lower granny would be nice.
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
Darth Lefty is offline  
Old 09-19-15, 11:44 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Atlanta, GA. USA
Posts: 3,804

Bikes: Surly Long Haul Disc Trucker

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1015 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Yes
Walter S is offline  
Old 09-19-15, 12:28 PM
  #9  
Miles to Go
 
timdow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 711

Bikes: 2022 Juiced Crosscurrent X, 2022 Fuji Touring, 1998 Schwinn Moab (drop bar conversion), 2010 LHT (Stolen)

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 151 Post(s)
Liked 145 Times in 95 Posts
Originally Posted by Darth Lefty
Shift ratios for two step gearing. I agree a lower granny would be nice.
So your saying that a 30/39/50 gives true half-step (two step) gearing? I didn't run it through a gear calculator....

Do we really care about 1/2 step with 30 gears anyway?
timdow is offline  
Old 09-19-15, 12:54 PM
  #10  
Fred E Fenders
Thread Starter
 
fthomas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Again! Philippines & S. California
Posts: 1,453

Bikes: Jamis Aurora Elite

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Change Chainring from 30 to 24 or 26 - Better and Cheaper Option?

Originally Posted by Tourist in MSN
Will your rear derailleur take it?

If you do that, you might want to have a slightly longer chain. While your existing chain should work fine, if you ever accidentally shifted into your largest chainring and largest rear cog, that is when you might regret not having added a few links or replacing the chain.
The bike has a Shimano 105 RD-5700-GS Long Derailleur. The alternative is to go with a smaller front chainring - 30 down to 24 or 26. That would be the least expensive way I think and would give the same results. Is there a negative to this I might be missing?
__________________
F Thomas

"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving."
Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
fthomas is offline  
Old 09-19-15, 12:55 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
robow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,872
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 598 Post(s)
Liked 283 Times in 194 Posts
Originally Posted by timdow

Do we really care about 1/2 step with 30 gears anyway?
You may or may not since you really only have 14 different gear ratios without the overlap between chainrings with that 3x10 configuration and an 11-34 cassette.
robow is offline  
Old 09-19-15, 01:08 PM
  #12  
Banned.
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Uncertain
Posts: 8,651
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by fthomas
The bike has a Shimano 105 RD-5700-GS Long Derailleur. The alternative is to go with a smaller front chainring - 30 down to 24 or 26. That would be the least expensive way I think and would give the same results. Is there a negative to this I might be missing?
39 to 24 is a very big drop. You might be better off just putting on a 48/36/24 chainset and be done with it.
chasm54 is offline  
Old 09-19-15, 01:20 PM
  #13  
just another gosling
 
Carbonfiberboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,534

Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004

Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3889 Post(s)
Liked 1,938 Times in 1,383 Posts
Originally Posted by fthomas
The bike has a Shimano 105 RD-5700-GS Long Derailleur. The alternative is to go with a smaller front chainring - 30 down to 24 or 26. That would be the least expensive way I think and would give the same results. Is there a negative to this I might be missing?
I ride 2 bikes with 52-39-26 triples. One is our tandem which we use for both sport and touring. It has a 12-34 cassette. The other is my light climbing bike, which has an 11-25 cassette. The 26 is there for different purposes on the two bikes, but they both shift well. I use an N-gear chain catcher on both bikes.
Carbonfiberboy is online now  
Old 09-19-15, 01:42 PM
  #14  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
have 3 50-40-24 triples a 52-42-26, and a 48-36-22. friction shifting all of them .
fietsbob is offline  
Old 09-19-15, 02:41 PM
  #15  
Disco Infiltrator
 
Darth Lefty's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,446

Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem

Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3126 Post(s)
Liked 2,105 Times in 1,369 Posts
Originally Posted by timdow
So your saying that a 30/39/50 gives true half-step (two step) gearing? I didn't run it through a gear calculator....

Do we really care about 1/2 step with 30 gears anyway?
No, 2-step. One shift on the front is equal to two on the rear. Many gears overlap, but the shifts are nicely spaced. Works very well with indexing - pull one trigger for one step up, pull both triggers for two down + one up = one down.

Some MTB setups take this even further where the 1-2 front shift is matched to big jumps at the bottom of the cassette and the 2-3 front shift is matched to smaller jumps at the top of the cassette. I have my MTB-tug set up this way and I like it a lot.

Half-step is where one shift on the front is equal to half on the rear. This is great with 5-speed touring freewheels that have huge shifts but I don't see the point with cassettes or indexing.
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
Darth Lefty is offline  
Old 09-19-15, 02:49 PM
  #16  
Banned.
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Uncertain
Posts: 8,651
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Darth Lefty
No, 2-step. One shift on the front is equal to two on the rear. Many gears overlap, but the shifts are nicely spaced. Works very well with indexing - pull one trigger for one step up, pull both triggers for two down + one up = one down.
Yes. I have this set-up on a road bike and like it a lot, both for this reason and because the 30 inner ring allows a decent climbng gear while keeping nice tight ratios at the back. But I'd want something lower for loaded touring.
chasm54 is offline  
Old 09-19-15, 06:15 PM
  #17  
Fred E Fenders
Thread Starter
 
fthomas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Again! Philippines & S. California
Posts: 1,453

Bikes: Jamis Aurora Elite

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by chasm54
39 to 24 is a very big drop. You might be better off just putting on a 48/36/24 chainset and be done with it.
Sorry I don't get this one. The bike has a small chain ring of 30, so dropping to 24 is a bit more than going to a 11-34 from a 11-30. Both would be my preference if my RD and finances would handle it.

I have only been able to find the Shimano instructions for the 105 RD-5700-A, which even with a long cage only handles 11-30. Wish I had put a little more thought into it when I bought the bike and had the changes made at that time.

Hope this is a reminder for others that know the intended use of their bike, area(s) to be ridden and the stock gearing on the bike. I blew it on this one.
__________________
F Thomas

"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving."
Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
fthomas is offline  
Old 09-20-15, 04:34 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
gregjones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: West Georgia
Posts: 2,828

Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I had a 30t and went to a 34. Love it.....not for the granny low, but it keeps me on the middle ring for just the bit more that I needed. Small ring isn't used much without the trailer.
gregjones is offline  
Old 09-20-15, 04:59 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
Medic Zero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Vancouver,Washington
Posts: 2,280

Bikes: Old steel GT's, for touring and commuting

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
.

I definitely notice the difference between 11-32 and 11-34 on 8 and 9 speed set ups, particularly loaded (I haven't run a modern 10 speed). But my home turf is pretty hilly. My small rings on my triples are 22T, and 24T on a legacy crank and I still often wish for those extra 2 teeth, front or rear.

Last edited by Medic Zero; 09-20-15 at 07:26 PM. Reason: weird formatting
Medic Zero is offline  
Old 09-21-15, 09:25 AM
  #20  
Banned.
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Uncertain
Posts: 8,651
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by fthomas
Sorry I don't get this one. The bike has a small chain ring of 30, so dropping to 24 is a bit more than going to a 11-34 from a 11-30. Both would be my preference if my RD and finances would handle it.
I was referring to the big step down from a 39 middle ring to a 24 inner ring. My personal prefences would be to keep the rings slightly closer in size. YMMV, it's a matter of taste.
chasm54 is offline  
Old 09-21-15, 09:40 AM
  #21  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
once on the 24t I leave it there until i get to the pass and then up shift as I head down the other-side.

18 speed.. 3 by 6.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 09-21-15, 11:00 AM
  #22  
Miles to Go
 
timdow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 711

Bikes: 2022 Juiced Crosscurrent X, 2022 Fuji Touring, 1998 Schwinn Moab (drop bar conversion), 2010 LHT (Stolen)

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 151 Post(s)
Liked 145 Times in 95 Posts
Originally Posted by fthomas
Sorry I don't get this one. The bike has a small chain ring of 30, so dropping to 24 is a bit more than going to a 11-34 from a 11-30. Both would be my preference if my RD and finances would handle it.

I have only been able to find the Shimano instructions for the 105 RD-5700-A, which even with a long cage only handles 11-30. Wish I had put a little more thought into it when I bought the bike and had the changes made at that time.

Hope this is a reminder for others that know the intended use of their bike, area(s) to be ridden and the stock gearing on the bike. I blew it on this one.
My thinking is that you can't just change the rear "D" due to the incompatibility between road and mountain with 10 cog. The indexing on the bar end shifters would be incorrect... unless you can deal with friction only.

With 130/74mm I believe 38T is the smallest you can go for the middle ring, so probably not worth changing from 39T to 38T.

You can do the cog swap to 26T and see if you are satisfied, but you might might consider just shopping for a 110/74mm crankset. If you do the cog swap, an anti-chain suck device is highly recommended.


Here is some good reading regarding possibly getting the derailleur to shift a 32T : Downgearing Your Bike
timdow is offline  
Old 09-21-15, 12:34 PM
  #23  
Nigel
 
nfmisso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 2,991

Bikes: 1980s and 1990s steel: CyclePro, Nishiki, Schwinn, SR, Trek........

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 384 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
And another series of suggestions:

* M592 RD (9 speed mountain, works with 10 speed road shifters)
* 11-36 10 speed cassette (Shimano or SRAM - check which has more suitable spacing for you)
* 48-36-24 front rings. (or compromise, just 24 granny ring).
* new KMC chain.
nfmisso is offline  
Old 09-21-15, 12:58 PM
  #24  
Miles to Go
 
timdow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 711

Bikes: 2022 Juiced Crosscurrent X, 2022 Fuji Touring, 1998 Schwinn Moab (drop bar conversion), 2010 LHT (Stolen)

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 151 Post(s)
Liked 145 Times in 95 Posts
Originally Posted by nfmisso
And another series of suggestions:

* M592 RD (9 speed mountain, works with 10 speed road shifters)
* 11-36 10 speed cassette (Shimano or SRAM - check which has more suitable spacing for you)
* 48-36-24 front rings. (or compromise, just 24 granny ring).
* new KMC chain.
Do you think that will work? Will the 9-speed mountain RD shift the 10 cogs with tighter spacing?
timdow is offline  
Old 09-21-15, 01:29 PM
  #25  
Nigel
 
nfmisso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 2,991

Bikes: 1980s and 1990s steel: CyclePro, Nishiki, Schwinn, SR, Trek........

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 384 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by timdow
Do you think that will work? Will the 9-speed mountain RD shift the 10 cogs with tighter spacing?
It will, used by many people. Note: 9 speed MTB RD, with 10 speed road shifters. It will not work the other way around.

Read the reviews: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Deore-...&keywords=m592
nfmisso is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.