how much does your touring bike weigh?
09-26-15, 09:30 PM
#151
Senior Member
Re taking apart a sealed square taper, neat idea and sounds like a good project to try some day. Was it hard to disassemble? It's too bad I didn't keep the old one from my old rock hopper a few years ago when I put in a new one. It still turned rather smoothly, but felt kinda dry so to speak, but I didn't really give it a second glance with any thought of dismantling.
I realise diff models will have diff details, but what tool did you use to take it apart? Did you have to whack the crap out of it and or damage part of it to access the innards?
I realise diff models will have diff details, but what tool did you use to take it apart? Did you have to whack the crap out of it and or damage part of it to access the innards?
09-26-15, 09:41 PM
#152
Senior Member
Re taking apart a sealed square taper, neat idea and sounds like a good project to try some day. Was it hard to disassemble? It's too bad I didn't keep the old one from my old rock hopper a few years ago when I put in a new one. It still turned rather smoothly, but felt kinda dry so to speak, but I didn't really give it a second glance with any thought of dismantling.
I realise diff models will have diff details, but what tool did you use to take it apart? Did you have to whack the crap out of it and or damage part of it to access the innards?
I realise diff models will have diff details, but what tool did you use to take it apart? Did you have to whack the crap out of it and or damage part of it to access the innards?
If you do remove a bearing, putting it back on shouldn't be an issue, but you do need to make sure you press/drift on the inner race with a piece of metal pipe or a long socket of suitable size.
I didn't pay absolute attention to cleaning up the BB on Machka's bike, but the work sure did improve its spinnability and eliminated a rather serious creaking noise.
Of course, we are way off topic here.
09-26-15, 10:12 PM
#154
Senior Member
tends to crack and cause a clicking sound.
you can* replace the cup with an alloy one that comes with a VP or TANGE bb.
(*is possible with the versions available here. your kilometerage may vary.)
visit dentist. buy pack of disposable single-use dental tools. two-ended
pick is most useful, as is the little mirror.
Last edited by saddlesores; 09-26-15 at 10:19 PM. Reason: my baloney has a first name..........
09-27-15, 01:02 PM
#155
Senior Member
Rowan, yes, very much off topic, but still interesting. Will come back to this one day when and if I ever try it.
Sores, the one I did that to did have a plastic other side bit, but not cracked. The creak was probably just from gritty interface with the threads on the other side, so when cleaned out and liberally greased, and retorqued back in at a good tightness, it went away. Replaced with a new one at some point later just because it had been in there for so long anyway, made sense to do. The new one (I think a un-55) has a metal bit on that side, but in any case, that side doesnt need to be tightened much, but probably tougher in general, especially if it ever loosens a bit before you notice.
Sores, the one I did that to did have a plastic other side bit, but not cracked. The creak was probably just from gritty interface with the threads on the other side, so when cleaned out and liberally greased, and retorqued back in at a good tightness, it went away. Replaced with a new one at some point later just because it had been in there for so long anyway, made sense to do. The new one (I think a un-55) has a metal bit on that side, but in any case, that side doesnt need to be tightened much, but probably tougher in general, especially if it ever loosens a bit before you notice.
09-28-15, 09:14 AM
#156
Clark W. Griswold
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shimano using some cheaper parts on the cartridge bb's, the threaded cup is plastic.
tends to crack and cause a clicking sound.
you can* replace the cup with an alloy one that comes with a VP or TANGE bb.
(*is possible with the versions available here. your kilometerage may vary.)
visit dentist. buy pack of disposable single-use dental tools. two-ended
pick is most useful, as is the little mirror.
tends to crack and cause a clicking sound.
you can* replace the cup with an alloy one that comes with a VP or TANGE bb.
(*is possible with the versions available here. your kilometerage may vary.)
visit dentist. buy pack of disposable single-use dental tools. two-ended
pick is most useful, as is the little mirror.
09-28-15, 10:11 AM
#157
Senior Member
We actually recently installed a UN-55 and it was alloy cups though we had ordered it a the year before so maybe things have changed for the worst. Though none of the stuff I have seen via our distro or online shops has changed so I doubt they switched. The UN-26 is plastic for sure.
09-28-15, 10:16 AM
#158
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I know they're more expensive but these higher end square taper bottom brackets available from IRD, sure solved my bottom bracket creaking.
QB-55 Quad Bottom Bracket
QB-75 Quad Bottom Bracket
QB-55 Quad Bottom Bracket
QB-75 Quad Bottom Bracket
09-28-15, 11:54 AM
#159
commu*ist spy
Thread Starter
I've got the weight difference between the steel and carbon framesets...
carbon frame + fork: 1800 g
steel frame + fork: 4400 g
steel fork: 1390 g
carbon fork: 490 g
that's a 6.6 lb frame and a 3 lb fork........
carbon frame + fork: 1800 g
steel frame + fork: 4400 g
steel fork: 1390 g
carbon fork: 490 g
that's a 6.6 lb frame and a 3 lb fork........
Last edited by spectastic; 09-28-15 at 12:01 PM.
09-28-15, 09:35 PM
#161
Clark W. Griswold
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I know they're more expensive but these higher end square taper bottom brackets available from IRD, sure solved my bottom bracket creaking.
QB-55 Quad Bottom Bracket
QB-75 Quad Bottom Bracket
QB-55 Quad Bottom Bracket
QB-75 Quad Bottom Bracket
I plan on getting probably a QB-75 for a 1x hybrid I am looking to build up in the nearish future from some parts bin stuff and a dream.
09-28-15, 09:44 PM
#162
Senior Member
plastic cup was a few years ago. is shimano still going plastic? not sure, as i'm trying
to move away from shimano. their stuff (available here) has become total crap. could
be local stuff is made in third rate indonesian sweet shops. but who knows.
most recently.........plastic bb cups, replaced with VP or tange. 2 sets of pod shifters
lose shiftie-clickies, replace with microshift. 2 '73 chains lose side plates, replace
with kmc.
shimano (for me) is quickly becoming one of your crazy uncle's stories....."back when
i was young, we had to cycle uphill to school both ways in the snow.....nekkit!........"
to move away from shimano. their stuff (available here) has become total crap. could
be local stuff is made in third rate indonesian sweet shops. but who knows.
most recently.........plastic bb cups, replaced with VP or tange. 2 sets of pod shifters
lose shiftie-clickies, replace with microshift. 2 '73 chains lose side plates, replace
with kmc.
shimano (for me) is quickly becoming one of your crazy uncle's stories....."back when
i was young, we had to cycle uphill to school both ways in the snow.....nekkit!........"
09-28-15, 09:56 PM
#163
Senior Member
Re square taper vs outboard, s.t is heavier, but maybe because I'm a light guy and not strong, but I've had excellent life out of square taper. I realise it depends on which models. This summer I met a guy touring on a recent to touring bike with outboard bb, doing know which one, but he had had three or four times where the external bearings went bad. I realise too with those which specific ones and how they are put in is a factor, but he had diff shops change them out and still had recurring problems in low low mileage situations.
I guess I am taking my experience of 10 years of commuting on the same bb with no issues at all, but I see no issue with starting with a good quality square taper for a future tourer, unless of course it comes with external and then I'll see how it goes.
I guess I am taking my experience of 10 years of commuting on the same bb with no issues at all, but I see no issue with starting with a good quality square taper for a future tourer, unless of course it comes with external and then I'll see how it goes.
09-29-15, 10:53 AM
#164
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LOL! My Trek 520 unloaded weighs 36 pounds with a rear rack only and 3 empty water bottles. Fill bottles, add handlebar bag, TT bag, rear trunk, first aid kit, minor tools, extra tube and repair kit, and I'm pushing 48 pounds! Holy crap. Nearly 20 pounds heavier than some of the others I just finished with doing a supported cross Canada tour with. Little wonder why I was so slow on the up hills, hahaha!
09-29-15, 12:04 PM
#165
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ya, tubes can be weird, just last week I was putting in a new tube on my wifes bike and it had a hole in it from a creased area, like where it was folded up, that i suspect was there from the get go before I opened the package. Near the valve too so was useless pretty much--this was however a first, so I take that into account in terms of worrying about it again.
tires- well, I figure that going with tires that you have already used in the past helps, and then perhaps having ridden with the specific tires for a while before a trip is good, just so there are no weird issues going on already, but I do feel with tires that how you ride and what your ride over and how you ride over it is such a big factor.
If I am on paved roads, and avoid potholes, cracks or crevices just as I usually do, then chances are still in my favour in terms of how the tire is actually treated due to my riding style/avoidance of stuff style. I say all that, but am completely aware that all it can take is one bad move of riding loaded up against a sharp edge of a rut or something and damage can occur.
I tend though to go with my past experience of riding, and trust my instinct of how to ride, and perhaps naively hope for the best.
again, all this talk has certainly made me more aware of the decision to take a spare, of the various factors that would point to taking one as a wise thing to do.
tires- well, I figure that going with tires that you have already used in the past helps, and then perhaps having ridden with the specific tires for a while before a trip is good, just so there are no weird issues going on already, but I do feel with tires that how you ride and what your ride over and how you ride over it is such a big factor.
If I am on paved roads, and avoid potholes, cracks or crevices just as I usually do, then chances are still in my favour in terms of how the tire is actually treated due to my riding style/avoidance of stuff style. I say all that, but am completely aware that all it can take is one bad move of riding loaded up against a sharp edge of a rut or something and damage can occur.
I tend though to go with my past experience of riding, and trust my instinct of how to ride, and perhaps naively hope for the best.
again, all this talk has certainly made me more aware of the decision to take a spare, of the various factors that would point to taking one as a wise thing to do.
plastic cup was a few years ago. is shimano still going plastic? not sure, as i'm trying
to move away from shimano. their stuff (available here) has become total crap. could
be local stuff is made in third rate indonesian sweet shops. but who knows.
most recently.........plastic bb cups, replaced with VP or tange. 2 sets of pod shifters
lose shiftie-clickies, replace with microshift. 2 '73 chains lose side plates, replace
with kmc.
to move away from shimano. their stuff (available here) has become total crap. could
be local stuff is made in third rate indonesian sweet shops. but who knows.
most recently.........plastic bb cups, replaced with VP or tange. 2 sets of pod shifters
lose shiftie-clickies, replace with microshift. 2 '73 chains lose side plates, replace
with kmc.
10-01-15, 10:36 AM
#167
Senior Member
I figure that as the gear weight decreases a lighter bike choice makes more and more sense. I stopped using a "touring bike" when gear weight got below 20 pounds. The lighter more responsive bike made a big difference in the touring experience for me.
10-01-15, 02:34 PM
#169
Senior Member
I think that body weight choices are a separate issue that I really don't consider a touring specific decision. I choose my diet and exercise based on general fitness and well being and am not likely to modify it specifically because of bike touring. Gear and bike choices for touring on the other hand are specific to touring. So I am way more likely to make body weight choices based on my daily life than for some upcoming tour where I am likely to lose more weight than I want to if I am not careful. Since I tend to do other activities like trail running, mountain biking, hiking, and high pointing I don't see bike touring as being a major factor in diet and weight choices.
10-01-15, 08:15 PM
#170
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If you are going light weight - gear wise then a lighter bike will probably be up to the task. I remember riding once and thinking how great it would be if I just had a road bike and a credit card; I could cover a lot of distance.
But when you start adding camping gear etc... the advantages of a light weight bike have to be weighed against the ability to handle the load. In my mind, if I am already pushing 40+lb's down the road I would rather push 45 and know my bike won't fold in half than try to save 5lb's and worry all the time.
10-01-15, 08:55 PM
#171
Senior Member
I think this is a fair point to consider.
If you are going light weight - gear wise then a lighter bike will probably be up to the task. I remember riding once and thinking how great it would be if I just had a road bike and a credit card; I could cover a lot of distance.
But when you start adding camping gear etc... the advantages of a light weight bike have to be weighed against the ability to handle the load. In my mind, if I am already pushing 40+lb's down the road I would rather push 45 and know my bike won't fold in half than try to save 5lb's and worry all the time.
If you are going light weight - gear wise then a lighter bike will probably be up to the task. I remember riding once and thinking how great it would be if I just had a road bike and a credit card; I could cover a lot of distance.
But when you start adding camping gear etc... the advantages of a light weight bike have to be weighed against the ability to handle the load. In my mind, if I am already pushing 40+lb's down the road I would rather push 45 and know my bike won't fold in half than try to save 5lb's and worry all the time.
10-01-15, 08:58 PM
#172
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I agree, I also didn't say 20lb's. But some bikes carry big loads and at that point I think worrying about bike weight has to be balanced against strength.
When you start trying to marry light weight with strength you tend to start seeing exotic materials that cost a lot, like CF and Ti. So, for a heavy load you go down that road, and the concerns surrounding field repairs, or stick to steel, which will weigh more for strength. When you look at steel you either opt for a strong modern platform such as touring/expedition grade bikes or cheaper older steel bikes that used good quality metal... but most of the time, those bikes weigh more.
I'm sure none of that is news to most people but that's what the weight issue breaks down to most of the time. People can have their opinions but they have to be weighed against the over arching decisions they make about a lot of different factors.
When you start trying to marry light weight with strength you tend to start seeing exotic materials that cost a lot, like CF and Ti. So, for a heavy load you go down that road, and the concerns surrounding field repairs, or stick to steel, which will weigh more for strength. When you look at steel you either opt for a strong modern platform such as touring/expedition grade bikes or cheaper older steel bikes that used good quality metal... but most of the time, those bikes weigh more.
I'm sure none of that is news to most people but that's what the weight issue breaks down to most of the time. People can have their opinions but they have to be weighed against the over arching decisions they make about a lot of different factors.
Last edited by Happy Feet; 10-01-15 at 09:26 PM.
10-01-15, 09:55 PM
#173
Senior Member
i had been firmly in the "it's a damn touring bike, dammit!
you're gonna load it down with gear anyway, what does it
matter how much the bike weighs" camp. but then i got
old. well.....older.
40km-long hills in 100-degree temperatures (and a riper
body!) convinced me to consider other viewpoints.
after the tour, rebuilt the bike with some minor changes:
front&rear rack, fork, pedals, rear rim, tire selection, bars.
no real difference in ride quality (other than change to
trekking bars), but managed to dump around 4kg. switch
to lighter shoes, lose 3kg body weight. wow! went for a
ride yesterday to the beach, cut 1/3 off my normal time,
think i'll need a seatbelt to keep the bike from squirting
out ahead of me! (i know, some of that is better condition
after long tour, riding a bike on flat terrain without gear)
you're gonna load it down with gear anyway, what does it
matter how much the bike weighs" camp. but then i got
old. well.....older.
40km-long hills in 100-degree temperatures (and a riper
body!) convinced me to consider other viewpoints.
after the tour, rebuilt the bike with some minor changes:
front&rear rack, fork, pedals, rear rim, tire selection, bars.
no real difference in ride quality (other than change to
trekking bars), but managed to dump around 4kg. switch
to lighter shoes, lose 3kg body weight. wow! went for a
ride yesterday to the beach, cut 1/3 off my normal time,
think i'll need a seatbelt to keep the bike from squirting
out ahead of me! (i know, some of that is better condition
after long tour, riding a bike on flat terrain without gear)