jonc123

This is a 26" bike with a Tubus Cargo Evo on the back.

I am thinking of changing out my rear cantilever brake for V-Brakes so I can move my bags forward some. Maybe. The position of the bags do not really bother me and the heavier items I try to keep up front. I've done some homework. If I keep my Canti brake levers, I need travel agents to work with the V's. Looks like it would be cheaper to just buy new levers such as these:

TEKTRO RL520

I've heard good things about these levers, the levers on my cantis right now are Tektros. The price seems good.

I've tried to look at some pictures of LHTs but can't find very good ones of a rear V-brake. The ones I do see, it looks like they still might stick out past the seatstays and rub on the rear of the bags. On second thought it looks like the rack would keep the bags out far enough and off the brakes, I assume.

Many different types of V-Brakes are mentioned as good ones, what would be some nice quality V-Brakes?

I assume most would switch out the front to a V-Brake also or would it not look goofy with two types of brakes? I figured the levers would look close enough..

Doug64

When getting advice on this it might be good to know that the Tubus Cargo Evo is narrower than the Older Tubus Cargo racks. This is true in the 700c models, and I assume it is also true in th 26".

I put Avid Single Digit 7 V-brakes on my wife's touring bike. They really work well. She wanted STI shifters so I used Travel Agents, and have not had any problems. While her bike frame is only 47 cm it has 700c wheels, so I can't help on the clearance issue.

jonc123

Just looking at the bike sitting here, it looks like the rack is far enough out, it even clears the long brake pad nut by at least 1/2".

Looks like folks like the Avid Single Digit 7 V-brakes. Would the arm on the Cargo Evo coming off the seatstay interfere with the cable or anything?

Tourist in MSN

I am not sure what your cantilevers are but if they are something like the Tektro CR720s that stick pretty far out, you might instead switch to the Avid Oryx. The Oryx are not known for good braking performance but I find that the Nashbar copy of them is adequate. Some report that Koolstop Salmon pads overcome the weak braking.

I use a travel agent on a V brake on one of my bikes, quite happy with it. I got the one with a cable adjusting screw. Since you would only have to use one, this is not too expensive.

Or, shift your panniers back another half inch or inch. Ortliebs are easy to adjust.

Changing brake levers, which often means bar tape can take a lot of time and expense.

fietsbob

Move the bag hooks forward in the slot in the upper bag mounting rail. that will sift the bag rearward,
to not touch the brake calipers.

then move the lower hook so that the position will not shift.

I use the Ortlieb back rollers on a Tubus Logo Rear rack.

Magura HS33 rim brakes on V Brake Posts .. a well proven German Product.

cyccommute 

Before you go throwing the baby out with the bath water, you can adjust the position of the Ortlieb bags. On older ones, there was a screw that could be loosened and the hooks could be moved back of forth. The newer models have a lever system that makes the adjustment easier. Here's the instructions for the newer model. Look at panels E and F. I would think that one stop to the front should be enough to get you plenty of clearance.

LlamaBikes

Also consider mini-v brakes. Looks like your setup could fit them no problems.

79pmooney

First, does the bag actually interfere with the brake operation when it is full? If it doesn't and you have no sharp edges on the brakes abrading the bags, I wouldn't even sweat it. If there are issues, I would move the bag fasteners forward just enough so there aren't. I have a similar setup but I find heel strike limits how far forward I can go with the bags and the brake isn't an issue. Now I do not use the large rear bags but instead my original Ortleib fronts as rears now.

Try riding your setup as is. See if brake rub is an issue, If not, forget it. It will take a long, long time for a little rub to do anything to those bags. When it becomes an issue, contact an Ortleib rep. I am sure there is a permanent repair you can do for the black cloth on the sides of the bags like there is for the yellow rubberized front panel I had to repair after I stuck a knife through it. Do make sure you don't have sharp cable ends or brake shoe holder edges hitting the bag. (Perhaps a quick filing of the holder edges with a fine file if they are sharp.)

This is a rear brake. I would be a lot more concerned if it were a front.

Another possible solution: Let the rub happen. But first Barge cement on a chafing patch. Perhaps some really tough, slippery outdoor cloth/sheeting. If you could get your hands on the old Mylar and figure out how to get it to stay in place, you would have a very low friction surface that would allow real rub for years or decades. Again, you might call an Ortleib rep for ideas. Nothing to lose and it could be fun.

Ben

jonc123

The bags do not interfere with the brake at all when the bags are full, I have them adjusted just short of touching the brake. I really have no complaints, but everything I have read points to the fact that your rear load should be over the rear axle or as close to it as you can get. I'm not really having any problems, so maybe I don't need a solution! If it was cheap enough, I would do it.

Tourist in MSN: Yes the ones I have are the 720's and stick out quite a bit. It looks like a new set of brake levers are almost as cheap as the travel agent, but if I just do the rear brake it might be cheaper than brake levers.

fietsbob & cyccommute: Already done that, the bags are solid and do not move at all, just thinking of moving the whole bag forward over the axle. Great bags!

LlamaBikes: I'll look into the mini V-Brakes.

jonc123

No rubbing or anything, I have the bags adjusted properly, they are just shy of touching the brake when loaded. Just thinking about moving the weight forward and closer to the axle. The bags are wonderful and it really hurt me to put the first mark on them, after that things were OK!

Moving the bags forward 2-3" wouldn't be a heel strike problem, I have plenty of room.

I think it would take a long time to rub a hole in them, the bags look tough!

fietsbob

Dont sweat the Perfect * and just ride the Perfectly Adequate .. like 'every one' already did.

[classic French Cyclo-Camping Tour bikes put the rear bags low and fully behind the rear Axle]

* Unless you want a New ,Super long rear End Bike justified .. like a Big Dummy for your Touring, OR,

Dump the rear bags entirely and Get a Trailer for all that stuff.

MassiveD

The cheap solution is just to get different cantis, then you change nothing. You can probably get a single for well under twenty, I have gottens sets for 15 from Nashbar, or ebay. If you want titanically improved stopping get a set of Pedersens, they will rock you world, way better than Vs. But you have to pick them up off ebay or something similar.

Brakes | Product Categories | Paul Component Engineering

If you look at their touring profile canti vs the neo retro, you can see the geometry variations available. It is very common in cyclo cross to run retros front and touring back. Of course there are cheap but good versions with similar geometries. While you can run anything in the rear, the front fork can be a different mater. I have had bad results with the retros on narrow road type forks, spacing up front seems to be more of an issue.

The Pedersens are very Akido like, they use your forward momentum to stop the bike, one has to be careful about what pads one uses, really sticky pads may lock them up, but that is ideal on a touring bike as cheap pads are more available, and longer lasting. Sintered pads are also super charged in this set-up.

jonc123

I do pretty good with the front & back rollers and can fit everything in them with spare room (which might be useful). I don't use any other smaller frame or handlebar bags and carry nothing on top of the rack.

Maybe someday down the road I'll try a trailer. Don't really need one for the cargo space, but I think it would be fun to do. Maybe.

fietsbob

Just Don't let the Quest for the theoretically perfect stop you from using the fine , what you already Have, as It is.

79pmooney

Also (in fun!) - that bag is behind you. What you don't see isn't an issue! While riding, you will forget the weight is 4 cm too far back, especially if you have put the heavy stuff in front. And you may be able to load your gear so the heaviest stuff in back is at the front of the bag.

Ben

jonc123

The Paul stuff looks really nice, just by looking at the picture the touring profile model would work.

jonc123

Thats exactly the way I pack except I try to keep most of the weight in the front rollers. The bike just seems to ride well that way. When I first put the bags on the fork rack I was unsure about it; thought the bike would not handle at all. I think moving some of the weight to the front has been a positive thing. In fact, don't even notice it there now.

Backpackers kind of pack the same way. Heavy items at the bottom of your pack and closer to your back.

mantelclock

With a bike as heavy as your Surly, I don't think that placement of your rear panniers makes any noticeable difference. I would stick with what you've got.

jonc123

^^You may have the right idea!

Tourist in MSN

I do not think anybody can get their weight centered over the rear axle, due to heel strike issues virtually everybody has their panniers farther back unless they are on a bike with absurdly long chainstays like a Big Dummy.

I think my bags are farther back than yours.



But you do not want them toooooooo far back, then the tail can have a tendency to wag the dog. So, set them as far forward as you can to avoid heel strike problems.

jonc123

They look pretty close. I'm sure that this won't be my last bike. I know a lot more now than I did 3 months ago, I would like to build a bike from the frame up someday with components of my choosing.

You cheated in the picture, you have a kickstand! Nice pic!

fthomas

As stated above:

Stick with what you have. The only down side would be if the brakes were rubbing and wearing a hole in your Ortliebs.

IF You decide to go with a compact canti be aware-They will work fine, but with the increased angles their stopping power is not quite the same and as the pads wear you will notice that they start to stop a lot less effectively.

jonc123

I'll probably stick with what I have, I have no complaints and the bike does ride well. Didn't know if I would get some improvement or not. The way I have the bags on now, the clips holding the bag on the rack are spread apart very far which makes it good and solid.

Whatever the pads they have on now, the stock tektros, they work pretty good. I may try the Kool Stops when they wear out.

Just by looking, looks like the Mountain model is mentioned a lot for the 720s.

Kool Stop

I have these brakes Tektro 720:

TEKTRO BRAKE SYSTEMS

MassiveD

I have paul neos, and just used them as a for instance because the pictures are available. They really are good, and work with just keys, but the reality is they don't stop better than the plastic housed pressed steel Shimanos I was using before. Pedersens on the other hand are so good they are illegal.

I guess this has been discussed, but if you have these kinds of problems there may be enough compromises in place that you will get heel strike when you try to solve the current problem.

MassiveD

Nashbar Cantilever Front and Rear Brakeset Avid Shorty 4 Cantilever Brake