Clipless mountain bike shoes and pedals, easy enough to walk in short distances, like around the grocery store. I'll change shoes though. Because it's so easy to un-velcro the bicycle shoes and slip on my crocs. The higher efficency of bicycle shoes are well worth the minor inconvience of changing shoes a few times a day.

This is what my shoes and cages look like.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=495552

All my bikes run old-school pedals with clips and straps, and for most riding I wear a pair of Shimano SPD-compatible shoes but with no cleats (for the stiffness). For touring usually I'll wear a pair of trekking/hiking shoes with a GoreTex liner instead.

Pedals I like and use include the SunTour XC-Pro (no longer made, and going for stupidly high prices on Ebay), MKS Urban Platform (one-sided, but with a nice, flat, supportive platform perfect for long rides), Velo Orange Touring Pedals (very light, nicely made, and supportive), and SR Low Fat MTP-126/127/129 pedals (similar design to the XC Pro, but not as high-end and still available at good prices on Ebay).

For clips I prefer the types shown in photos above by other posters, nylon with a two-part strap carrier (which is probably what the OP meant instead of a double strap setup, which is something racers used to use back in the pre-clipless days).

I wouldn't be too keen on the pedals shown by the OP, as they are more for racing/road biking than touring. The edges will start to dig in, especially on lightweight or running shoes, and they don't have much support.

For me it's not the weight of carrying a second pair of shoes, it's the space they take up. I'm planning a long trip now and have decided to switch to clips and straps instead of clipless pedals, which I've been riding for about six years now. If you only want a spare pair of shoes for walking to the restaurant from your motel, then probably any pair of light, compact camp shoes will work. I plan on doing some hiking and camping on this trip as well as cycling though, so I wanted shoes that could handle that, like some trail runners or light hikers. Once I began considering shoes like that, it didn't make sense to bring them in addition to cycling shoes.

I had been using Mavic Alpine shoes in my quest to find a walkable cycling shoe. These are pretty good, but as always, the more you get to the middle of the good for walking/good for cycling continuum, the worse they get at both things. For my short tours (ten days or less) around Japan, these shoes have been fine.

I have been using MKS Urban Platforms with clips and straps and they've been great. I mostly wear Nike Pre Montreal Racers with them. They have a really soft sole, so I'd be concerned about wearing them with a cage pedal, but they feel great on the MKS Urban Platforms. One other benefit of something like the Urban Platforms over cages is that you are more able to yank your foot out the back with straps tightened should you need to in an emergency.

All I can say is try it out close to home first. I can't stand wearing soft shoes with cage pedals. Running shoes are the worst. Even Vans are better. Traditional leather dress shoes work surprisingly well for pedaling, but you might not want to hike with them. Anyway, IMO you lose quite a bit of efficiency without cycling shoes, feels to me kind of like adding 15 lb to your gear. Is it really worth it?

My preference is to wear cycling shoes for riding, and bring along a pair of lightweight running shoes for any hiking. They basically weigh nothing, and for me they are an essential item.

Another compromise would be one of the more flexible MTB shoes. Some are pretty walkable for a short hike anyway.

Running shoes typically have wide heels that can rub your chainstays unless you ride pigeon-toed. I used to love Bata Bikers, but they aren’t made anymore. However, a company called Chrome does make cycling sneakers; some can even be SPD compatible. I got a pair of their boiled wool high-tops, which are great for cold weather.

For me I never felt like I lost all that much efficiency changing to sneakers with clips and straps, so it was a non issue, but I understand that everyone is different in what they are sensitive to and what they wish to prioritize.

Yeah, this is why I like the Nikes I've been using for riding. The sole is pretty narrow, so it doesn't hit anything during the pedal stroke. I have a bit of concern about finding good shoes for hiking that don't contact the bike during the pedal stroke.

I'd check out PowerGrip soft toe straps that work w/o a toe clip (cage). Haven't tried 'em but they get good reviews. Formerly used toe-clips/straps & those can prevent using bulkier shoes which is esp bad in winter. But apparently PowerGrips easily allow bulky shoes, ie trainers, winter boots etc. I would have thought there were plenty of clipless bike/walking shoes that could also be used in the cold though. Clipless shoes can include a higher toe box, allowing, perhaps, for thick winter socks.

I find the lighter the running shoe, the narrower the heel. One's with more cushioning can rub the crankarm (don't know about the chainstay though, you'd have to have pretty huge feet...)

I see your point, packing my light hiking shoes in the panniers is an inconvenience due to shape, they pack rather poorly.

But, I tour with a friend that on trips where we have had a few consecutive days of rain, he is looking for a drug store to buy stuff for his feet. He always uses one pair of shoes and once they are soaked, he starts having foot problems. One trip we had to sit in a campsite for a day while his feet recovered.

I have used my light hiking/trail running shoes on the first dry day after several wet days to ride all day long without problems. They are Merrill Moab shoes with a goretex liner in them. (I mentioned these shoes in post number 7 above.) Their soles are stiff enough that they work well all day on the bike on platform pedals. That way my bike shoes can be strapped outside my bags and get a chance to dry out after getting soaked. If necessary I will wear flip flops in a wet campsite to make sure that I do not get both pair of shoes soaked.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=496587

I use pedals that have SPD cleats on one side, platform on the other, thus I can ride with either pair of shoes.

I use flat, pinned pedals and Keen sandals for touring. For cooler rides I use low insulated hiking boots.

I'm getting ready to try these on my MKS Lambdas Superiors (quick release), along with a Goretex Alta zero drop/wide toe box shoe for hiking/biking the Sierra-Cascades ACA route next summer. A second pair of shoes takes up a lot of space.

http://harriscyclery.net/product/mks...edal-9-16-3065.
https://www.altrarunning.com/men/lonepeakneoshell

The Lambdas have a very wide platform that makes up for a little flex in the shoe.

each time in my riding history that I went from regular running shoes (very flexible, caused arch discomfort) to stiffer soled bike shoes (but still with leather clips) to early spd mtn bike type shoes (around 91 or 92) to much better and stiffer spd mtn bike shoes---each time my foot comfort increased, as well as efficiency. So for me it doesnt make sense to ride in a shoe that isnt very stiff and fits me really well (fit is not a factor here comparing biking or non biking shoes, more the stiffness).

sure, taking an extra pair of shoes takes up room, but I for one cannot wait to get out of my bike shoes, and into something else at the end of the day after a shower. Sandals are my choice, just to let the poor old toes to air out after being scrunched all day and pushing against a pedal or two.

The only time I could see non spd shoes as being prefereable would be if you knew you'd be walking a bike a lot, but even then I'd lean to stiff soled feet simply cuz of the riding factor of it being better--and considering the hours pedalling vs walking in those shoes, to me its an easy decision.

Toe clips can be fitted to just about any pedal that accepts bolt-on relectors. If you also want straps the M324 lacks the ideal strap attachment points. The Wellgo WPD-95B appears to have the attachment points for straps.

I've fitted my bicycle with MKS Touring Lite pedals and metal toe-clips with dual straps. I've been riding around with them the last couple days and think we'll become best friends :). It's taking some getting used to. Slipping my 2nd foot into the clip is awkward - especially with the big hiking boots I wore the first day. It's getting easier now and I can again manage to do it without looking down sometimes.

I remember when I switched to clipless years ago, I felt very awkward at first and when coming to a stop would look for something to lean against rather than clip-out. Now going back to toe-clips my feet have forgotten how to ride again and it's a similar feeling.

My foot keeps wanting to twist-out when I stop if I'm not thinking about it.

But I feel so liberated to ride in normal shoes. I've been riding around lately in running shoes. I can tell I need a stiffer sole for longer rides. What's a good shoe to look for? A hiking shoe with gortex liner? I just have some big winter hiking boots and some running shoes right now. I want to buy a stiff-soled shoe that will be good in warm weather primarily but a range of weather conditions (including rain) in general.

Now I don't have to prepare for every bike ride. If I get delivered to my cycle after leaving it somewhere I don't have to remember bringing riding shoes. I can go visit friends and family and go with them to a movie or something and go naturally on and off the bike without it being a special production.

I rode clipless for almost 30 years - partially influenced by a vision of the "right way" for a "serious cyclist" to ride. I'm still prone to wear cycle-specific clothing because I have a hard time regulating my temperature and sweat otherwise (to avoid quickly going from hot and sweaty to freezing). But I think I'm on toe-clips for good.

I think this will make it easier to keep my feet warm on cold rides. I don't have to wear a shoe that lets cold seep in thru a hole in the bottom.

Shimano make a great pair of Hiking SPD boots, the MT91. Grippy Vibram sole and all. Last tour I used a pair of 510 Cyclone boots, they didn't have enough tread for slippery stuff. I climbed a couple of volcanoes in them on that trip including one climb of 6000 vertical feet in a day. I can't see the problem in hiking in SPD shoes designed for hiking or walking. Good walking boots have the same attributes as good bike boots, a stiff sole with a strong rigid shank. Have a pair of flip flops for the camp and some Sealskinz socks for when the boots are wet after riding and you want to wear them around, like going out in the evening.

Before you go abandoning clipless entirely, have you tried long rides in regular running shoes? Have you ever ridden in running shoes and toeclips before? I have done both and found clips shoes to be far superior. On long rides, a soft shoe that is designed to absorb impact rather than serve as a pedaling platform bends in the wrong direction on each pedal stroke and start to cause pain just behind the ball of the foot where the cage on the pedal contacts the shoe. It's not that noticeable at 5 to 10 miles but at longer distances, it can be pure agony.

The other part of the issue is getting into toe clips with running shoes. First there is just the issue of flipping the pedal. If you've never ridden with toe clips, it's more difficult than clipless. It can be very challenging...and distracting...to get the toe clip flipped up when riding at slow speeds up a hill. Then there is the width of a running shoe. Running shoes are wider than typical bicycle shoes and you have to wiggle the shoe to get it into the toe clip...after you've flipped the pedal, of course.

You also need to consider the bottom of the shoe. If the shoe has a lot of "waffles", those are going to hang up on the pedal cage which is one more thing to deal with while trying to balance the bike, flip the pedal, steer down the road, and wiggle your foot into the clip. And all this is further complicated if you use dual straps since you have to get the shoe past a second strap.

Personally, I've never found a mountain bike shoe to be all that uncomfortable for walking around just about everywhere. I've done "hike-a-bike" on a few mountain bike tours when the terrain was too rugged to ride a loaded mountain bike over. Sometimes those hike-a-bike sections have been miles long.

But, if you want to go with toe-clips, I would suggest getting a bicycle touring shoe that is clipless ready but just don't remove the insert that usually covers the clipless bolt holes. Something like Shimano's Click'R shoes might be a good choice. They have a bit of grip on the toe so you could do mile hiking in them but they are still stiff enough for pedaling.

If you want to keep your feet warm in the cold, don't look to the shoe to do it. There are few "warm" bicycle shoes out there that aren't winter boots. Most bicycle shoes are designed for hot weather and have lots of ventilation. I know because I've looked all over for a pair. I have winter boots which are just too hot when the temperature is over 40°F and my summer shoes are too cold for below about 55°F. The easiest, and most flexible, solution is shoe covers. Shoe covers also work better on the touring shoes as opposed to mountain bike shoes. The lugs on the mountain bike shoes make getting into the shoe covers difficult.

Thanks. Looks like maybe you didn't read #46 . But thanks for the tip on the shoes. I might even live around town in toe clips and go touring clipless.

Just for sake of completeness, it's worth mentioning that once upon a time, touring cyclists used cleated cycling shoes with their toe clips and strap equipped pedals. Those that didn't use racing type shoes usually wore Bata bikers or Avocet touring shoes.

My point is that clips and straps were developed as part of a system that included cycling shoes. Nowadays, people think that toe clips and straps are so you can ride your bike with regular shoes, and that is true, but back before 'clipless' pedals, serious cyclists used cycling shoes for anything other the commuting and beer runs.

I guess the current Giro (rumble?) touring shoes would work with clips/straps even though they are spd compatible. Anyone using them with clips?

I used to use those Bata biker shoes + clips for 'round town biking & courier work. Bata shoes were very cheap & sole was grippy enough not to slip on metal pedals but smooth enough so that it didn't complicate pulling foot out of clip/strap.

@ Walter S--maybe something like Shimano XM7? It's not too heavy-looking, has Gore Tex etc. On the cold mornings one could add a 2nd pair of socks (wool etc) & remove as day warms up. Sometimes thick socks can complicate shoe fit though. BTW I'm surprised you were able to use (regular) hiking boots with toe clips. When I rode w/clips it was frustrating to use most street shoes let alone boots 'cause they wouldn't fit as far forward in the clip & thus foot-pedal position non-optimal.

I use the Specialized 2FO shoes for both my clip pedals (commuter and SS road bikes) and for my platform pedal MTBs. Nice stiff soles, but still comfortable to walk in, also a strap to hold down my shoelaces on top of the shoes (away from the chain rings).

+1. I wasn't convinced, so I made myself some straps that served the same purpose, and I liked them. I suspect the PowerGrip ones are better than my DIY ones (which broke after a couple hundred miles).

The steel SPD cleat, clipped into the steel and aluminum pedal, screwed into the aluminum crank arm, with a whole steel bike frame at the other end of it, is an enormous heat sink. In warm weather that's not an issue, but on recent rides I've been getting really cold feet despite pretty good insulation.

Re metal being cold, this makes sense. I commute as late as possible so ride a fair amount in temps down to freezing but only for an hour tops, so can very much see that using regular pedals and hiking type boots with a thick sole is going to be warmer for your feet being out all day just from the heat sink aspect.

Worth a try! Once read about somebody that made their own toe clips (to use boots) from steel cable or something, somehow they made it work.

A good cloth tape can help save the toes of your shoes if you use metal toeclips and don't use cleats. Wrap the tape around the area of the toeclip where the shoe will make contact. When properly set up with cleated shoes there's supposed to be about 1/8" of space between the toeclip and the toe of the shoe. The toeclip's main purpose is to hold the toestrap.

Wrapping the toeclipc also reduces the transfer of cold to your toes.

Cheers

Re cloth tape, I've wrapped my mtn bike brake levers with hockey tape for this exact reason. Good point

The ideal pedal for touring would probably be that flypaper pedal, it is only 4mm thick, and you stick to it almost as though riding in some binding system, but there is nothing. Unfortunately it is nor being adopted.


I use proper cycling sandals, and rat trap type pedals, I fabbed some metal sheet that goes over the top of the pedal so it does not dig in, Originally these pedals were designed to interface with metal cleats, not to have a knife edge bear on the sole of a casual shoe.

I use cages as well. I've worn a pair of Shimano MT34's on my last two tours and will wear them again this year. They were about $100 when I bought them but a Google search shows them for as low as $60 now. Fiberglass reinforced polyamide. EVA foam with nylon lining. They weigh 1lb 6oz for the pair. I've found I can walk and hike in them so they're my do everything shoe. They do have the clipless pedal deal built into them but I've never used it.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=498804

Put on a heavier pair of wool socks, or shoe covers! problem solved. !!! DUH!!!

How cold was it? I have seen that be a problem but not until it is pretty cold, like maybe single digits F or lower. The coldest I have seen on tour was probably 18 F but even then it warmed up pretty quickly once the sun was up, so for me the heat sink thing has never been an issue on tour.