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upgrading brakes

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Old 03-04-16 | 12:57 PM
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Bikes: 2014 Fuji Touring

upgrading brakes

My 2013 Fuji Touring has Tektro cantilever brakes. They're working OK but it is very difficult to disengage the brake assembly to remove the tire. When the cable is properly tensioned I have to squeeze with both hands to get enough slack to get the cable loose, when I adjust to give myself some more slack the brakes have too much play in the levers. I'm a big guy so upgrading to better brakes is probably a good idea anyway. Can anyone make a suggestion for an upgrade?
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Old 03-04-16 | 01:03 PM
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What type of shifters and/or brake levers are you using as that is paramount as to your options? There are higher end canti's or depending on your shifters, you might consider V Brakes with travel agents or mini V's (but often you will experience the same problem that you have now with mini V's)
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Old 03-04-16 | 01:09 PM
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I have bar end shifters, not sure of the brake levers but I'll check.
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Old 03-04-16 | 01:10 PM
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While there may be better brakes out there, you shouldn't be having the problem that you're having with your Tektro cantis. I have Tektro Oryx brakes on my touring bike and I have no trouble removing the link wire and the brakes themselves work great. I assume that you have Tektro road levers as well...

Last edited by mantelclock; 03-04-16 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 03-04-16 | 01:30 PM
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Bikes: 1997 Rivendell Road Standard 650b conversion (tourer), 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10 (gravel/tour), 2013 Foundry Auger disc (CX/gravel), 2016 Cannondale Fat CAAD 2 (MTB/winter), 2011 Cannondale Flash 29er Lefty (trail MTB)

Does your brake lever have a quick release? For many, it's a cylinder that slides to one side or the other to permit extra cable travel.

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Old 03-04-16 | 01:49 PM
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Bikes: Surly LHT 26in 52cm 2008

Originally Posted by qandaappraisals
My 2013 Fuji Touring has Tektro cantilever brakes. They're working OK but it is very difficult to disengage the brake assembly to remove the tire. When the cable is properly tensioned I have to squeeze with both hands to get enough slack to get the cable loose, when I adjust to give myself some more slack the brakes have too much play in the levers. I'm a big guy so upgrading to better brakes is probably a good idea anyway. Can anyone make a suggestion for an upgrade?
look at TRP CX9 brake set and TRP CX8.4 brake set for short pull levers
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Old 03-04-16 | 07:23 PM
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Install inline barrel adjusters on your brake cables. They should provide enough adjustment to make it easier to remove[ the wheels. If you replace the brakes it is a good time to do it.

The barrel adjuster for my rear brake is visible. With the interrupter brake levers, I don't have enough room for one on the front brake.
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Old 03-04-16 | 07:43 PM
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Did you try moving the brake pads out more. Adjust the position of the pads on the cantis.
Cantilever Brake Service | Park Tool
I like cantilever brakes. Takes some effort to adjust them properly. Worth the extra trouble.

Waht about these
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...6&category=670
[h=4]Shimano BR-T780 XT V Brake[/h]

Last edited by chrisx; 03-04-16 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 03-04-16 | 07:44 PM
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I've got the Paul touring brakes and Shimano Dura-ace brake levers.The brakes were about 75 bucks a set. They're the best brakes I've ever had.
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Old 03-04-16 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Ramblin Man
I've got the Paul touring brakes and Shimano Dura-ace brake levers.The brakes were about 75 bucks a set. They're the best brakes I've ever had.
+1 on the Pauls. I run Touring cantis and neo cantis and they are great. Worked well with Campy Veloce Brifters and now work well with the Paul Canti-lever. The angle of the straddle wire makes a big difference in feel , good dissertation on that is here. SheldonBrown
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Old 03-05-16 | 08:11 PM
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Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter

I had the same complaints as the OP. I got two sets of Avid Single Digit 5 brakes (about as low end as you can get), new take offs, for $20 off eBarf. Put salmon KoolStop pads on the front and feel good to go. I can lock up front or rear brakes on dry pavement and control them in less desirable conditions to prevent lock up. If a wheel can be made to skid---that's more braking than you need----the trick it to have control to prevent it. Fade and failure down long steep grades is another matter. (Avid FR-5 levers.)

Very easy to adjust and no problems removing wheels.
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