lacing brooks saddle
05-12-16, 12:38 AM
#1
commu*ist spy
Thread Starter
lacing brooks saddle
has anyone done this? has it proven to be helpful? my brooks is starting to squeak at the metal/leather interface in the nose of the saddle, because the leather acts like a trampoline whenever my butt bounces. proofide hasn't helped, but I know this can be mitigated if I can alleviate the trampoline effect by lacing the sides of the saddle. My intuition tells me that by doing this, the longevity of the saddle will be improved, because the leather flexes much less.
so has anyone done this? how did you do it? how much did it help?
so has anyone done this? how did you do it? how much did it help?
05-12-16, 03:00 AM
#2
Senior Member
I did this just a couple of weeks ago and I'm very happy with the result. I loved my Brooks right out of the box... and then it gradually got more and more uncomfortable as it broke in. I have the special edition with the big copper rivets on the back, and as the leather broke into my butt shape, the rivets seemed to become more pronounced and I ended up with nowhere comfortable to sit on it. I noticed the skirt was flaring out a bit too, so I decided to lace them together to bring the shape back closer to how it was out of the box. I think I have achieved that, and I'm much happier with how it feels now.
I'd spring for a Cambium, but the price is absurd and I can't convince myself to do it when my B17 is still in such good condition (aside from the sag).
I'd spring for a Cambium, but the price is absurd and I can't convince myself to do it when my B17 is still in such good condition (aside from the sag).
05-12-16, 06:16 AM
#3
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,807
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 566 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1886 Post(s)
Liked 476 Times
in
295 Posts
Three points!
First, if the nose hardware is squeaking, tighten the nut a little bit. Just a little; only enough to keep it from moving around.
Second, please, take it easy with the Proofide! I've seen a lot of saddles that were killed with Proofide, and only a few that died for lack of it.
Third.... Lacing the skirts makes a fundamental change to the way the saddle supports your weight. Normally, with a leather saddle like Brooks or the many others, downward pressure on the top causes the whole thing to sag, which causes the skirts to spread out. You'll see this if you press down on the top of it with your hand. But while you're sitting on it and pedaling, the skirts can't spread out very much because your thighs are there. The effect is to spread pressure a bit; your thighs hold the saddle in, and your weight is spread out over the whole saddle, even including the sides. If you lace the skirts, they won't spread out, so now your weight will be concentrated on the top of the saddle. Furthermore, since the top can't sag, it will be much harder, and it will be harder on a specific part of your body.
As I say, lacing the skirts makes a fundamental, architectural change to the saddle. It makes it from one kind of a saddle into another kind of saddle. That's not to say it's a bad thing; Brooks has offered a 'Swallow' model for many years, which has the skirts cut away and connected together with a metal plate riveted on. They can be pretty unforgiving! If that's what you want, by all means, go for it. My guess, however, is that it isn't what you want.
First, if the nose hardware is squeaking, tighten the nut a little bit. Just a little; only enough to keep it from moving around.
Second, please, take it easy with the Proofide! I've seen a lot of saddles that were killed with Proofide, and only a few that died for lack of it.
Third.... Lacing the skirts makes a fundamental change to the way the saddle supports your weight. Normally, with a leather saddle like Brooks or the many others, downward pressure on the top causes the whole thing to sag, which causes the skirts to spread out. You'll see this if you press down on the top of it with your hand. But while you're sitting on it and pedaling, the skirts can't spread out very much because your thighs are there. The effect is to spread pressure a bit; your thighs hold the saddle in, and your weight is spread out over the whole saddle, even including the sides. If you lace the skirts, they won't spread out, so now your weight will be concentrated on the top of the saddle. Furthermore, since the top can't sag, it will be much harder, and it will be harder on a specific part of your body.
As I say, lacing the skirts makes a fundamental, architectural change to the saddle. It makes it from one kind of a saddle into another kind of saddle. That's not to say it's a bad thing; Brooks has offered a 'Swallow' model for many years, which has the skirts cut away and connected together with a metal plate riveted on. They can be pretty unforgiving! If that's what you want, by all means, go for it. My guess, however, is that it isn't what you want.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
05-12-16, 07:44 AM
#4
Banned
People do , B17 basic ( a tourists bike , not mine,) has some skirt flare, another 17, Imperial another ship ahead, has been laced.
I have 2 Team Pros, decades of use... mine does not need that..
I have 2 Team Pros, decades of use... mine does not need that..
05-12-16, 10:42 AM
#5
Senior Member
My experience is very similar to what @DanBell described only I have the standard steel rivets on my B-17. I like to ride on the rear of the saddle and the sag was forcing me to point the nose quite high to prevent my butt from sliding forward off of my preferred sweet spot on the saddle. I tightened the bolt a bit and then laced it. Big improvement and I can now position it with just a minor up tilt and I have 2 older Brooks that will get the same treatment soon.
I've logged 100+ miles since I laced it a few weeks ago and the the true test will come on a 2 week tour later this month.
I've logged 100+ miles since I laced it a few weeks ago and the the true test will come on a 2 week tour later this month.
__________________
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride - JFK
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride - JFK
05-12-16, 01:22 PM
#6
commu*ist spy
Thread Starter
oh, I thought proofide was supposed to help. I suppose you can have too much of a good thing... how much is too much? I've had it maybe 6 months, and have done 2 applications, one for preventative measures, and the second one a couple of days ago, to address the creaking.
about changing the saddle's flexing skirt, can't you just remove the laces if the saddle doesn't work out as it should? what if you loosen the laces a little, to introduce some flex?
what laces have you guys used? I'm thinking I'll mark the holes, and use a drill for the holes, and maybe tie it up with a spare shoe lace.
about changing the saddle's flexing skirt, can't you just remove the laces if the saddle doesn't work out as it should? what if you loosen the laces a little, to introduce some flex?
what laces have you guys used? I'm thinking I'll mark the holes, and use a drill for the holes, and maybe tie it up with a spare shoe lace.
05-12-16, 02:00 PM
#7
-
Originally Posted by rhm
Three points!
First, if the nose hardware is squeaking, tighten the nut a little bit. Just a little; only enough to keep it from moving around.
Second, please, take it easy with the Proofide! I've seen a lot of saddles that were killed with Proofide, and only a few that died for lack of it.
Third.... Lacing the skirts makes a fundamental change to the way the saddle supports your weight. Normally, with a leather saddle like Brooks or the many others, downward pressure on the top causes the whole thing to sag, which causes the skirts to spread out. You'll see this if you press down on the top of it with your hand. But while you're sitting on it and pedaling, the skirts can't spread out very much because your thighs are there. The effect is to spread pressure a bit; your thighs hold the saddle in, and your weight is spread out over the whole saddle, even including the sides. If you lace the skirts, they won't spread out, so now your weight will be concentrated on the top of the saddle. Furthermore, since the top can't sag, it will be much harder, and it will be harder on a specific part of your body.
First, if the nose hardware is squeaking, tighten the nut a little bit. Just a little; only enough to keep it from moving around.
Second, please, take it easy with the Proofide! I've seen a lot of saddles that were killed with Proofide, and only a few that died for lack of it.
Third.... Lacing the skirts makes a fundamental change to the way the saddle supports your weight. Normally, with a leather saddle like Brooks or the many others, downward pressure on the top causes the whole thing to sag, which causes the skirts to spread out. You'll see this if you press down on the top of it with your hand. But while you're sitting on it and pedaling, the skirts can't spread out very much because your thighs are there. The effect is to spread pressure a bit; your thighs hold the saddle in, and your weight is spread out over the whole saddle, even including the sides. If you lace the skirts, they won't spread out, so now your weight will be concentrated on the top of the saddle. Furthermore, since the top can't sag, it will be much harder, and it will be harder on a specific part of your body.
WRT to lacing, I find a laced B17 is still a pretty bouncy, forgiving saddle relative to modern plastic saddles.
Originally Posted by spectastic
so has anyone done this? how did you do it? how much did it help?
Make 6 holes on each side 1cm apart about 1cm up from skirt. The holes should be located opposite each other as if you're drilling a hole from one side of the saddle to the other, 90 degrees to the rails. If they're off a little it's no big deal. Don't use the "Brooks Champion Standard" stamped areas as a guide, as Brooks seems to just eyeball these locations without measuring - mine were offset by 1cm. Use whatever string you like for lacing, but be aware the larger the string diameter the more likely it will rub you or abrade your clothing.
B17's skirts splay outwards in the area behind the center of saddle (lengthwise) back to a point where movement is increasingly restricted by the outermost rivets. The holes and string which control the skirt need to be located in this area. Tying from the center of the saddle forwards does very little to control skirt spread. So start drilling holes about center of saddle length and move rearwards with subsequent holes.
I used an electric drill and 1/16" bit to make my holes, because I own these tools and was unwilling to buy a leather punch set for this one job, although they'd work better (neater holes) but it hardly matters. When lacing the saddle, the string does not have to be taut to keep skirts from splaying. If you tighten string too much you'll pull the sides inwards so that the skirts may interfere with saddle mounting, or the string may be abraded by vertical movement against sharp edges of the seat post clamp mechanism.
You can do this whole job without removing saddle from bike if careful, however I removed mine so as to prevent drill bit, saddle rail and/or seat post damage.
WRT results of lacing, for most users I suspect it is definite improvement if the saddle has sagged a lot from use, or lost it's structure as a result of accidental of intentional leather softening. Lacing is basically a method to extend the life of a Brooks saddle once it is already sorta ruined.
I've never loved the B17. It's hard as a board when new and slippery as snot. Once it breaks-in it works good for a while, then it starts sagging too much for my comfort, and begins to put more pressure on the soft bits (perineum). B17 will sag much more than any decent "plastic" saddle, such that it makes it difficult to shift forwards or backwards a bit to temporarily relieve pressure points, or change hand positions on drop bar. This is a highly contentious subject, so I'll just conclude with YMMV.
05-12-16, 02:15 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Cambridge UK
Posts: 1,704
Bikes: Trek Emonda SL6 .... Miyata One Thousand
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 63 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 28 Times
in
21 Posts
I have an old Brooks B15 Champion narrow fitted on my daily commuter. I bought it approx 6 weeks ago
I only paid £10 for it from a LBS and it was in a sorry state. I have given 2 really good coats of Proofhide (top and bottom) and use the Giles Berthout Proofhide ....
It has come back to life and is comfortable. It has holes on the side, but no lacing. The leather is thick (this is the old 'proper' Brooks saddle), and no squeeking anywhere
so, proofhide works (I have been very generous with my applications) ...
I only paid £10 for it from a LBS and it was in a sorry state. I have given 2 really good coats of Proofhide (top and bottom) and use the Giles Berthout Proofhide ....
It has come back to life and is comfortable. It has holes on the side, but no lacing. The leather is thick (this is the old 'proper' Brooks saddle), and no squeeking anywhere
so, proofhide works (I have been very generous with my applications) ...
05-12-16, 10:29 PM
#9
commu*ist spy
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by seeker333
Very good points, second in particular. Probably 10X more B17s ruined by leather treatment than those ever helped by it. Do you think Proofide is actually Brooks' strategy for ensuring repeat saddle sales?
WRT to lacing, I find a laced B17 is still a pretty bouncy, forgiving saddle relative to modern plastic saddles.
I did it after I had given up on B17 in it's original state, in evaluative stages. First I treated the leather specifically to soften, which takes away the wooden hardness but also greatly compromises the whole support structure of the saddle. After a few hundred miles I then laced B17 to regain some of the support.
Make 6 holes on each side 1cm apart about 1cm up from skirt. The holes should be located opposite each other as if you're drilling a hole from one side of the saddle to the other, 90 degrees to the rails. If they're off a little it's no big deal. Don't use the "Brooks Champion Standard" stamped areas as a guide, as Brooks seems to just eyeball these locations without measuring - mine were offset by 1cm. Use whatever string you like for lacing, but be aware the larger the string diameter the more likely it will rub you or abrade your clothing.
B17's skirts splay outwards in the area behind the center of saddle (lengthwise) back to a point where movement is increasingly restricted by the outermost rivets. The holes and string which control the skirt need to be located in this area. Tying from the center of the saddle forwards does very little to control skirt spread. So start drilling holes about center of saddle length and move rearwards with subsequent holes.
I used an electric drill and 1/16" bit to make my holes, because I own these tools and was unwilling to buy a leather punch set for this one job, although they'd work better (neater holes) but it hardly matters. When lacing the saddle, the string does not have to be taut to keep skirts from splaying. If you tighten string too much you'll pull the sides inwards so that the skirts may interfere with saddle mounting, or the string may be abraded by vertical movement against sharp edges of the seat post clamp mechanism.
You can do this whole job without removing saddle from bike if careful, however I removed mine so as to prevent drill bit, saddle rail and/or seat post damage.
WRT results of lacing, for most users I suspect it is definite improvement if the saddle has sagged a lot from use, or lost it's structure as a result of accidental of intentional leather softening. Lacing is basically a method to extend the life of a Brooks saddle once it is already sorta ruined.
I've never loved the B17. It's hard as a board when new and slippery as snot. Once it breaks-in it works good for a while, then it starts sagging too much for my comfort, and begins to put more pressure on the soft bits (perineum). B17 will sag much more than any decent "plastic" saddle, such that it makes it difficult to shift forwards or backwards a bit to temporarily relieve pressure points, or change hand positions on drop bar. This is a highly contentious subject, so I'll just conclude with YMMV.
WRT to lacing, I find a laced B17 is still a pretty bouncy, forgiving saddle relative to modern plastic saddles.
I did it after I had given up on B17 in it's original state, in evaluative stages. First I treated the leather specifically to soften, which takes away the wooden hardness but also greatly compromises the whole support structure of the saddle. After a few hundred miles I then laced B17 to regain some of the support.
Make 6 holes on each side 1cm apart about 1cm up from skirt. The holes should be located opposite each other as if you're drilling a hole from one side of the saddle to the other, 90 degrees to the rails. If they're off a little it's no big deal. Don't use the "Brooks Champion Standard" stamped areas as a guide, as Brooks seems to just eyeball these locations without measuring - mine were offset by 1cm. Use whatever string you like for lacing, but be aware the larger the string diameter the more likely it will rub you or abrade your clothing.
B17's skirts splay outwards in the area behind the center of saddle (lengthwise) back to a point where movement is increasingly restricted by the outermost rivets. The holes and string which control the skirt need to be located in this area. Tying from the center of the saddle forwards does very little to control skirt spread. So start drilling holes about center of saddle length and move rearwards with subsequent holes.
I used an electric drill and 1/16" bit to make my holes, because I own these tools and was unwilling to buy a leather punch set for this one job, although they'd work better (neater holes) but it hardly matters. When lacing the saddle, the string does not have to be taut to keep skirts from splaying. If you tighten string too much you'll pull the sides inwards so that the skirts may interfere with saddle mounting, or the string may be abraded by vertical movement against sharp edges of the seat post clamp mechanism.
You can do this whole job without removing saddle from bike if careful, however I removed mine so as to prevent drill bit, saddle rail and/or seat post damage.
WRT results of lacing, for most users I suspect it is definite improvement if the saddle has sagged a lot from use, or lost it's structure as a result of accidental of intentional leather softening. Lacing is basically a method to extend the life of a Brooks saddle once it is already sorta ruined.
I've never loved the B17. It's hard as a board when new and slippery as snot. Once it breaks-in it works good for a while, then it starts sagging too much for my comfort, and begins to put more pressure on the soft bits (perineum). B17 will sag much more than any decent "plastic" saddle, such that it makes it difficult to shift forwards or backwards a bit to temporarily relieve pressure points, or change hand positions on drop bar. This is a highly contentious subject, so I'll just conclude with YMMV.
05-12-16, 11:37 PM
#10
tcarl
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 561
Bikes: Roark, Waterford 1100, 1987 Schwinn Paramount, Nishiki Professional, Bottecchia, 2 Scattantes, 3 Cannondale touring bikes, mtn. bike, cyclocross, hybrid, 1940's era Schwinn
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 27 Post(s)
Liked 9 Times
in
7 Posts
Originally Posted by spectastic
oh, I thought proofide was supposed to help. I suppose you can have too much of a good thing... how much is too much? I've had it maybe 6 months, and have done 2 applications, one for preventative measures, and the second one a couple of days ago, to address the creaking.
about changing the saddle's flexing skirt, can't you just remove the laces if the saddle doesn't work out as it should? what if you loosen the laces a little, to introduce some flex?
what laces have you guys used? I'm thinking I'll mark the holes, and use a drill for the holes, and maybe tie it up with a spare shoe lace.
about changing the saddle's flexing skirt, can't you just remove the laces if the saddle doesn't work out as it should? what if you loosen the laces a little, to introduce some flex?
what laces have you guys used? I'm thinking I'll mark the holes, and use a drill for the holes, and maybe tie it up with a spare shoe lace.
05-13-16, 10:17 AM
#11
Senior Member
I used a drill and some old left over cord from Rhode Gear leather handle bar wrap.
05-13-16, 04:56 PM
#12
Full Member
I would highly recommend lacing and older Brooks. I have two B-17's. The oldest accumulated over 30K miles before I notice serious issues. I had been tightening it an using Proofide but it eventually started to really sag. So, I did the lacing thing (mine uses eight holes) and never looked back. That saddle will go forever now with the added advantage of endless adjustability.
05-13-16, 05:53 PM
#13
commu*ist spy
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by tcarl
Too much Proofhide makes the saddle too soft. I'd stop right now.
05-20-16, 11:13 AM
#14
Senior Member
Originally Posted by spectastic
Noted. I did notice my saddle is much softer than first purchase. What's the best way to harden it back up? Bike shop suggests tension, but I already 3/4 turn,and don't want to overdo it
Good luck.
05-20-16, 11:59 AM
#15
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,807
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 566 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1886 Post(s)
Liked 476 Times
in
295 Posts
No, not tension. It won't help, and may lead to damage to the saddle.
To harden leather... well, in my experience, every time a saddle gets soaking wet and dries out again, it dries harder than before.
I'm not going to claim this is a good idea, but consider the following as a thought experiment. You could fill a bucket with clean water and dunk your saddle in it for a few hours, long enough to get really wet, then let it dry out again. If you do this, you will notice that the water has turned dark brown, suggesting that some soluble substance has been removed. Probably not good in the long run, but as I say, in my experience, the saddle subjected to this treatment will dry harder than it was before.
Baking the saddle for a half hour in your kitchen oven, at the lowest possible setting, for a half hour or so, will also tend to harden the leather.
Anything you do, to harden the leather, is basically speed-aging the leather. You are making it older; and the effect, whether it turns out to be good or not, cannot be undone.
To harden leather... well, in my experience, every time a saddle gets soaking wet and dries out again, it dries harder than before.
I'm not going to claim this is a good idea, but consider the following as a thought experiment. You could fill a bucket with clean water and dunk your saddle in it for a few hours, long enough to get really wet, then let it dry out again. If you do this, you will notice that the water has turned dark brown, suggesting that some soluble substance has been removed. Probably not good in the long run, but as I say, in my experience, the saddle subjected to this treatment will dry harder than it was before.
Baking the saddle for a half hour in your kitchen oven, at the lowest possible setting, for a half hour or so, will also tend to harden the leather.
Anything you do, to harden the leather, is basically speed-aging the leather. You are making it older; and the effect, whether it turns out to be good or not, cannot be undone.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
05-20-16, 10:53 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,150
Bikes: 2013 Surly Disc Trucker, 2004 Novara Randonee , old fixie , etc
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 671 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times
in
43 Posts
I laced a newish B17 Special to eliminate skirt flare; it flattened the top fore-aft just a bit; I suppose lacing makes more difference on an older saddle.
05-21-16, 03:42 AM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fife Scotland
Posts: 2,053
Bikes: Airnimal Chameleon; Ellis Briggs; Moulton TSR27 Moulton Esprit
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3255 Post(s)
Liked 817 Times
in
577 Posts
Everyone has an opinion on leather saddles and up to now I had promised myself I wouldn't comment on this subject...however...here goes.
In the "forming" process which shapes these saddles the natural oils are leached out of the leather...this is the reason that the saddle is so hard when new. Having no natural oils in the leather does allow the "breaking-in" process to happen as the leather fibres are now brittle which means that they can now break making the depressions caused by the rider's sit-bones.
The problem is that as they leather ages, being without the natural oils, it eventually crumbles and develops cracks. It is possible to slow/stop this by replacing the original oils with some product but whatever used should not over-soften the leather making the saddle useless. Proofide, at one time vetoed by Brooks from being applied to the underside of their saddles is now approved by them for this purpose....wrongly in my view as this will eventually over-soften the saddle. The reversal of the original advice only came about when the new company realised that their saddles in the US were ridden by riders who did not use mudguards.
As to a suitable product, again everyone has an answer and even Sheldon got this one wrong when he advised Neatsfoot oil.
Neatsfoot oil is organic in nature and attracts various types of fungus over time so should not be used. A modern product which may slightly soften (used with care) but which waterproofs and preserves is the answer, and today those working with leather would probably recommend "Hydrophane" or something very similar.
In the "forming" process which shapes these saddles the natural oils are leached out of the leather...this is the reason that the saddle is so hard when new. Having no natural oils in the leather does allow the "breaking-in" process to happen as the leather fibres are now brittle which means that they can now break making the depressions caused by the rider's sit-bones.
The problem is that as they leather ages, being without the natural oils, it eventually crumbles and develops cracks. It is possible to slow/stop this by replacing the original oils with some product but whatever used should not over-soften the leather making the saddle useless. Proofide, at one time vetoed by Brooks from being applied to the underside of their saddles is now approved by them for this purpose....wrongly in my view as this will eventually over-soften the saddle. The reversal of the original advice only came about when the new company realised that their saddles in the US were ridden by riders who did not use mudguards.
As to a suitable product, again everyone has an answer and even Sheldon got this one wrong when he advised Neatsfoot oil.
Neatsfoot oil is organic in nature and attracts various types of fungus over time so should not be used. A modern product which may slightly soften (used with care) but which waterproofs and preserves is the answer, and today those working with leather would probably recommend "Hydrophane" or something very similar.
__________________
"Reading maketh a full man; conference a ready man; and writing an exact man". Francis Bacon
"Reading maketh a full man; conference a ready man; and writing an exact man". Francis Bacon
05-21-16, 09:53 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,476
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 140 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
5 Posts
Had to lace my champion flyer, and hope that will get a few more miles out of it. One tip, do not use the stamping on the sides to line up the holes, as they are not even themselves.
I used a leather punch from my tack tools. It looks much better than a drilled hole. The leather I used was from a woven leather belt, it matches the saddle very well.
The leather on my flyer is substantially thinner than on the older leather saddles on my older bikes. It started to sag almost at once, with more stretch on one side than the other, as that side is slightly thinner than the other. When it hit the end of the adjustment after about two thousand miles(tightened only when it was about to hit the rails) I did the soak and slow heat thing. Brought it back to almost the original length. I then gave it a treatment of very dilute Lanolin to rehydrate it a bit. That was about a thousand miles ago, and it has developed a small crack on the side(the slightly thinner side)right on the rear rail.
A part of me just wants to keep the lemon brooks I bought new going as long as I can make it. Even with my experience restoring saddles and the like, there is not much else to do with it though.
I used a leather punch from my tack tools. It looks much better than a drilled hole. The leather I used was from a woven leather belt, it matches the saddle very well.
The leather on my flyer is substantially thinner than on the older leather saddles on my older bikes. It started to sag almost at once, with more stretch on one side than the other, as that side is slightly thinner than the other. When it hit the end of the adjustment after about two thousand miles(tightened only when it was about to hit the rails) I did the soak and slow heat thing. Brought it back to almost the original length. I then gave it a treatment of very dilute Lanolin to rehydrate it a bit. That was about a thousand miles ago, and it has developed a small crack on the side(the slightly thinner side)right on the rear rail.
A part of me just wants to keep the lemon brooks I bought new going as long as I can make it. Even with my experience restoring saddles and the like, there is not much else to do with it though.
05-21-16, 07:55 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,150
Bikes: 2013 Surly Disc Trucker, 2004 Novara Randonee , old fixie , etc
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 671 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times
in
43 Posts
Originally Posted by onbike 1939
Proofide, at one time vetoed by Brooks from being applied to the underside of their saddles is now approved by them for this purpose....wrongly in my view as this will eventually over-soften the saddle. The reversal of the original advice only came about when the new company realised that their saddles in the US were ridden by riders who did not use mudguards.
10-01-16, 03:55 PM
#21
commu*ist spy
Thread Starter
just laced mine, finally.
accidentally punched two extra holes on the left side, the one on the nose due to stupidity, and the one in the back because I realized too late that it overlaps with the seat post
started out with 1/16" holes, and ended up with 1/8", but I think I could've got away with 3/32. oh well
no more sagging!
accidentally punched two extra holes on the left side, the one on the nose due to stupidity, and the one in the back because I realized too late that it overlaps with the seat post
started out with 1/16" holes, and ended up with 1/8", but I think I could've got away with 3/32. oh well
no more sagging!
Last edited by spectastic; 10-01-16 at 03:58 PM.
10-01-16, 04:05 PM
#22
Banned
DK about your too much of a Good thing . in 1974 I got my Brooks Pro, warmed it in the oven to about 100F
put a Tablespoon of Proofide in the up turned under side ,
the waxes melted at those temperatures and the leather soaked it up like a sponge ..
and rode upon it for Many Decades.
put a Tablespoon of Proofide in the up turned under side ,
the waxes melted at those temperatures and the leather soaked it up like a sponge ..
and rode upon it for Many Decades.
10-01-16, 05:45 PM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 947
Bikes: Litespeed Ultimate 2006, Litespeed Pisgah , Specialized Roubaix 2008, Trek Madone 2011
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
[QUOTE=spectastic;18760907]has anyone done this?
I laced my B-17 but for a different reason. The shirts of the saddle spread out and wear holes in my bibs and shorts very quickly.
Lacing put an end to the wear.
I laced my B-17 but for a different reason. The shirts of the saddle spread out and wear holes in my bibs and shorts very quickly.
Lacing put an end to the wear.
10-01-16, 06:51 PM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,150
Bikes: 2013 Surly Disc Trucker, 2004 Novara Randonee , old fixie , etc
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 671 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times
in
43 Posts
Saddle looks almost new apart from the lacing. I bought a Brooks Swift recently since the prev B-17 nose was still a touch too wide after lacing. Gotta put some miles in to see how the fit turns out.
10-01-16, 07:15 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,406
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1138 Post(s)
Liked 727 Times
in
388 Posts
This Brooks B17 Imperial comes pre-laced. I can't give much of an opinion yet with only 150 miles on it so far. I'm just showing it to illustrate the factory lacing. I have another leather saddle, a Selle Anitomica, that is back at the manufacturer getting laced. It is a free service by the company.
However, I've had 30 years experience on this Brooks Pro. In my experience with this saddle, I can say that dozens of applications of Proofide did not significantly soften the leather. Most of those treatments were applied with the aid of a hair dryer.
However, I've had 30 years experience on this Brooks Pro. In my experience with this saddle, I can say that dozens of applications of Proofide did not significantly soften the leather. Most of those treatments were applied with the aid of a hair dryer.
Last edited by Doug64; 10-02-16 at 12:24 PM.
