I think you are starting to see the forest instead of the trees. A swaying rack is most likely do to the rack then the attachment method. Let me also state that I think the carrying capacity of your rack is highly over rated. I suspect that someone at Axiom looked at the specifications and thought "kilograms" instead of pounds. A 70 lb limit makes much more sense than a 154 lb limit does. Tubus Cargo racks which use a similar diameter tube but in steel only rates their carrying capacity at 88 lb (40 kg). Your rack is a thin walled, small diameter tubular aluminum rack and aluminum isn't nearly as stiff as people think. In this application, it is going to be quite flexible.

I would actually suggest a Tubus rack of some flavor. I've been using a Tubus Cargo for about 15 years and it is a good solid platform. Tubus can be expensive here in the US but I've found Rose Bikes out of Germany sells them for damnably cheap. The Cargo is 70 Euro ($78). The shipping rate is quite reasonable as is the shipping time.

I would also suggest you get the Tubus version of the P-clamp. They are a lot easier to use then P-clamps and a lot more stable.

Have you used the Tubus clamp? It looks effective, but it also looks like it would wear the paint off the seat stay in a hurry. I didn't see anyone mention that in the reviews, though.

Yes, but I do still have the issue of what should be the right bolts (if it is a common fitting) not fitting snugly in the available holes. I don't disagree, the rack itself is of concern to me, but I don't like just leaving the other issue alone. Putting weight on a rack on a screw that isn't snug in a hole is going to eventually continue to be problematic, no matter how tight I wrench it down on the dropout.

Anyways, I'll take a look at the Tubus for next time!

Yes. I've used them on 4 bikes.






I've used them for both the upper and lower mounts on the first two bikes (the mountain bikes) and for the upper mount on the second two bikes. Here's a close up on the upper mount on the orange Salsa



The mounts don't move like P-clamps can and they come with a friction tape to protect the frame. You do need to measure the diameter of your tube, however. You can see a spacer in the Salsa picture because I got clamps that were too small. They are much simpler to install than P-clamps as well. With the double bolt, you can mount the clamp to the frame and then mount the rack to the adapter and then tighten everything up easily.

I've found P-clamps to be difficult because you have to hold everything together and then try to thread the nut onto a bolt. It helps to have 14 hands

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I did strip out one 5mm threaded eyelet and had to tap it out to 6mm. A clean hole won't be any different from a threaded hole except that you can't strip out the threads. The resistance to wobbling doesn't come from the fit of the bolt in the hole. Were that the case, the hole and threads would get mangled up. No, the resistance to movement comes from the friction between the rack or fender mount and the bike part which has the eyelets. That's the reason that bolts have to be tight and stay tight: to create enough friction to prevent movement. The bolt just needs to be large enough to have enough thread area so that it can be tightened to an adequate torque to prevent movement. It doesn't need to fit tightly in the hole, though that would be better because then the bolt would be larger.

[MENTION=199355]RichSPK[/MENTION] your 85 Raleigh was not threaded, I think. Mine isn't, at least the fronts aren't.

I use front and rear Old Man Mountain racks. Bolt on model. I have threaded eyelets on the dropouts. I add a lock washer and bolt on back and I use blue Locktite on the threads. No problems there. I use P clamps on the seat stays instead of the eyelets. It makes a sturdier install. They are not the lightest racks available but they work well for me and I can't imagine them breaking under any circumstances other than a nasty crash.