I haven't been able to locate the torque specs for the bolts on the rear-rack that came installed on my Novara - Safari. Can anyone help?

Does anyone apply a torque wrench to their rear rack? I sure don't. Just tighten and go.

Would you actually haul a torque wrench with you on tour?

Probably a generic value for an M5 bolt would apply. Since I never used a torque wrench on an M5 bolt, I can't help. Try Google search.

I recommend blue loctite (or similar) on all rack bolts by the way.

The only bolts on a bike that I use my torque wrench on are my crank arm bolts on a square taper bottom bracket. Other fittings I go by feel.

I use a bungee from the top leading edge of the rack to the seat post. A nice insurance policy that is not too weight costly.

Go pretty tight. Ive never seen a particular number.

Being that it's a weight bearing part, specified to carry a specified weight, I'd expect a recommend torque value to be given. If need me I'll just make it up as I go along as suggested.

Folks don't take torque wrenches on tour but it'd still be interesting to check on all the bike bolts to see how hand-tightening stacks up.

For me the biggest issue in keeping rack etc bolts tight is having good tools that minimize risk of rounding out the caps. I bought some German-made Bondhus & Wera Allen keys & screwdrivers that seem to fit better than cheapos so theoretically will allow more torque.

I see some endorsements for Vibra-Tite VC3 thread compound, supposedly it still works after disassembly/reassembly whereas blue Loctite I think needs to be reapplied.

Any favorite M5 bolts? Seems logical to get a good spec for the minimal extra cost.

Thanks for the info. I'll look into those tools. Of course I'm not asking about torque specs for while out on tour, but rather for my per-check prior to departure.

Depends. If it's on a steel bike I'll use the "until my long allen key bends a bit when I hold it by the end." If it's an aluminum bike I go a bit less. Carbon I'll get the torque wrench out and try to find a number, but I don't have carbon bikes so...

Apply grease and use a nylock bolt on the other end? If there is room, I get a longer bolt, make it go through the rack bolt hole, and put a nut on the other side. None have come loose.

One Guy included a Klicker Pre set Torque socket.., for 5x.8mm bolts (like the 6 holding on Discs)

He had a Fancy Carbon Bike He was to Tour On, down the OR Cal Coast.


IDK Why The OP cannot just call REI?





./.

I ended up going to 5 ft. lbs. and it seems good. I may still try REI for the info. I had a ride planned for first thing this morning, so I had no time to.

I use a torque wrench for a lot of things when doing maintenance at home, but have not used them for rack bolts.

I have a little different system than most, but it works for me:
-I don't use locktight on any of my bolts.
-I apply a thin coating of grease to all my bolts. I believe a clean, lubricated bolt can be installed tighter than a dirty, gummed up with locktight bolt using the same force. Initial installations using locktight are different, but once the locktight dries on the threads reinstallation is a different story.
-Bolts are tightened to torque specs, or in the case of rack bolts, until they are "snug".
-"Snugness" varies depending if the steel bolt is going into an aluminum or steel frame/fork.
-On tours rack bolts are checked about every 3 to 7 days. this is the interval that I usually do cleaning and preventative maintenance on tours.

I've never had a bolt problem.