Front rack for touring + commuting
#27
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Yes, but it looks like it will take a pretty long spacer to get enough clearance between the braze on eyelet and where the rack attachment will clear the fork. The round part of the fork is too close to the eyelet (and the eyelet is on the inner side, recessed) to allow the rack to attach with a simple hex bolt. Seems like it should be much more straightforward than that.
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Bikes: Peugeot: AO-8 1973, PA-10 1971, PR-10 1973, Sante 1988; Masi Gran Criterium 1975, Stevenson Tourer 1980, Stevenson Criterium 1981, Schwinn Paramount 1972, Rodriguez 2006, Gitane Federal ~1975, Holdsworth Pro, Follis 172 ~1973, Bianchi '62
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Yes, but it looks like it will take a pretty long spacer to get enough clearance between the braze on eyelet and where the rack attachment will clear the fork. The round part of the fork is too close to the eyelet (and the eyelet is on the inner side, recessed) to allow the rack to attach with a simple hex bolt. Seems like it should be much more straightforward than that.
Another option for you is to use p-clamps. These are rubber coated metal clamps with an eyelet at the ends. You wrap it around the fork legs and bolt the rack using the eyelets. Here's a picture of one of my old Peugeots using p-clamps to hold the rear rack to the seat stays:
If you get properly sized clamps they will not move.
Oh, I should add that I needed to put a spacer on that front rack mount because I had the same problem as you did.
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I have the Surly rack and its pretty good. They used to be a lot cheaper. Super sturdy, but that also means super heavy. Sometimes I go places where I carry a lot of water, but if I just was commuting I would def. go aluminum. In fact, if I had to buy again I'd probably just go aluminum racks.