Touring with Motobecane Fantom Cross Team Titanium Cyclocross Bike
04-17-18, 12:14 PM
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Touring with Motobecane Fantom Cross Team Titanium Cyclocross Bike
I am currently shopping for a light touring bike to do the Pacific Coast route from Seattle to San Francisco in August.
I have found a "used" 2017 Motobecane Fantom Cross Team Titanium Cyclocross bike in my size with mechanical disc brakes.
Q1) For all those with the same bike, how has your experience been touring with it? Pros and Cons.
Q2) Being Petite (5'-3" & 110 pounds), I will need to make some changes in order to get much lower gearing around 20" to climb mountain passes. The current setup is 11 speed Shimano Ultegra 6800 groupset with 46/36t crankset & 11/32t cassette. Any suggestions on changes to get the lowest gearing possible and still be economical in making these changes?
Would it be possible to change cassette to 11/42t with and extender like a Wolf Tooth Roadlink on the existing setup?
**Crankset SHIMANO, FC-6800, ULTEGRA DOUBLE HOLLOWTECH 2, FOR REAR 11- SPEED, 46X36T, Crank 170mm FOR 49-52CM
**Bottom Bracket Shimano Ultegra External Outboard 68mm
** Front Derailleur SHIMANO, FD-6800 ULTEGRA FOR FRONT DOUBLE & REAR 11-SPEED BAND TYPE(31.8MM)
** Rear Derailleur SHIMANO, RD-6800, ULTEGRA GS 11-SPEED, COMPATIBLE WITH LOW GEAR 28-32T FOR DOUBLE
**Shifters SHIMANO, ST-6800, ULTEGRA (22 gears total)
**Cassette/Freewheel SHIMANO CASSETTE, CS-6800, ULTEGRA, 11-S, 11-12-13-14-16-18-20-22-25-28-32T
**Chain SHIMANO CHAIN, CN-HG700-11, FOR 11-SPEED 110 LINKS
**Front Hub Thru-Axle Front, SEALED BEARINGS.POLISH ANODIZED BLK. 14G*32H, W/GRAVITY LASER-ETCHED
**Rear Hub SEALED BEARINGS.POLISH ANODIZED BLK. 14G*32H,135mm.W/GRAVITY LASER-ETCHED
**Spokes F/R:14/15G*32/32PCS S.S. XD BLACK , FRONT SPOKES / REAR
Q3) Has anyone actually done the gearing changes on this same bike to convert it to a light touring bike?
Q4) It only has braze-ons for a rear rack panniers and carbon fiber fork. Will rear panniers be adequate for camping, cooking, and clothing for riding in August for a month down the Pacific Coast? It would be mind 1st long touring trip. I'm a complete newbie on touring although I am an experienced road cyclist.
I like the idea of titanium because it is rides smooth, lighter than steel, and weather-proof.
Any suggestion or comments would be greatly appreciated.
I have found a "used" 2017 Motobecane Fantom Cross Team Titanium Cyclocross bike in my size with mechanical disc brakes.
Q1) For all those with the same bike, how has your experience been touring with it? Pros and Cons.
Q2) Being Petite (5'-3" & 110 pounds), I will need to make some changes in order to get much lower gearing around 20" to climb mountain passes. The current setup is 11 speed Shimano Ultegra 6800 groupset with 46/36t crankset & 11/32t cassette. Any suggestions on changes to get the lowest gearing possible and still be economical in making these changes?
Would it be possible to change cassette to 11/42t with and extender like a Wolf Tooth Roadlink on the existing setup?
**Crankset SHIMANO, FC-6800, ULTEGRA DOUBLE HOLLOWTECH 2, FOR REAR 11- SPEED, 46X36T, Crank 170mm FOR 49-52CM
**Bottom Bracket Shimano Ultegra External Outboard 68mm
** Front Derailleur SHIMANO, FD-6800 ULTEGRA FOR FRONT DOUBLE & REAR 11-SPEED BAND TYPE(31.8MM)
** Rear Derailleur SHIMANO, RD-6800, ULTEGRA GS 11-SPEED, COMPATIBLE WITH LOW GEAR 28-32T FOR DOUBLE
**Shifters SHIMANO, ST-6800, ULTEGRA (22 gears total)
**Cassette/Freewheel SHIMANO CASSETTE, CS-6800, ULTEGRA, 11-S, 11-12-13-14-16-18-20-22-25-28-32T
**Chain SHIMANO CHAIN, CN-HG700-11, FOR 11-SPEED 110 LINKS
**Front Hub Thru-Axle Front, SEALED BEARINGS.POLISH ANODIZED BLK. 14G*32H, W/GRAVITY LASER-ETCHED
**Rear Hub SEALED BEARINGS.POLISH ANODIZED BLK. 14G*32H,135mm.W/GRAVITY LASER-ETCHED
**Spokes F/R:14/15G*32/32PCS S.S. XD BLACK , FRONT SPOKES / REAR
Q3) Has anyone actually done the gearing changes on this same bike to convert it to a light touring bike?
Q4) It only has braze-ons for a rear rack panniers and carbon fiber fork. Will rear panniers be adequate for camping, cooking, and clothing for riding in August for a month down the Pacific Coast? It would be mind 1st long touring trip. I'm a complete newbie on touring although I am an experienced road cyclist.
I like the idea of titanium because it is rides smooth, lighter than steel, and weather-proof.
Any suggestion or comments would be greatly appreciated.
04-17-18, 12:23 PM
#2
Banned
#1, I dont have the bike you chose, but I can suggest how to keep some of the light weight you paid to get.
#2, I toured for decades on a triple crank , my low a 24:34.. high a 50:13
now with 11 or 12t cogs on cassette, a 46 30 double should be considered (Velo Orange imports, )
I have no input on the trendy 1 by with a huge range, on a rather costly cassette.. it's your money* ..
Extra Wheel bike trailer.. Put a 2nd front wheel in it so all 3 use same tires and tubes..
then you put your panniers (or the ones they supply) on it rather than your bike..
Extrawheel | Bike Trailer
we see people using the 1 wheel BoB trailer with road bikes, it weighs a bit more, but the 1 bag makes for easy packing..
Or look for bikepacking bags, they don't need bike racks .. the 2 can be combined ..
staying in B&B , hostels , motels, and hotels means you wont need camping and cooking gear..
Your money*, spend it on bike gear or just save it for trip expenses , you pick..
...
#2, I toured for decades on a triple crank , my low a 24:34.. high a 50:13
now with 11 or 12t cogs on cassette, a 46 30 double should be considered (Velo Orange imports, )
I have no input on the trendy 1 by with a huge range, on a rather costly cassette.. it's your money* ..
Extra Wheel bike trailer.. Put a 2nd front wheel in it so all 3 use same tires and tubes..
then you put your panniers (or the ones they supply) on it rather than your bike..
Extrawheel | Bike Trailer
we see people using the 1 wheel BoB trailer with road bikes, it weighs a bit more, but the 1 bag makes for easy packing..
Or look for bikepacking bags, they don't need bike racks .. the 2 can be combined ..
staying in B&B , hostels , motels, and hotels means you wont need camping and cooking gear..
Your money*, spend it on bike gear or just save it for trip expenses , you pick..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 04-17-18 at 12:50 PM.
04-17-18, 06:21 PM
#3
Senior Member
I’ve had great success with the Wolftooth Tanpan. Compact double crankset, 11-42 and a long cage RD.
04-18-18, 06:29 AM
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There are many 46/30 cranks to choose from now...basically everyone other than the Big 3 (Shimano/SRAM/Campag) sells one....FSA, White Industries, IRD, Sugino, Easton I believe, Rotor...
The problem/annoyance with the gigantic-range cassettes....the gear spacing is as wide as it gets.
The problem with touring on a CX bike...is that it is a CX bike. The geometry is very aggressive for a tourer, people do do it however. As you already noticed...they tend not to have any provisions for fenders and seldom even racks.
The problem/annoyance with the gigantic-range cassettes....the gear spacing is as wide as it gets.
The problem with touring on a CX bike...is that it is a CX bike. The geometry is very aggressive for a tourer, people do do it however. As you already noticed...they tend not to have any provisions for fenders and seldom even racks.
04-18-18, 07:28 AM
#5
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Personally, I’d plan more than a month to do that trip and enjoy yourself. I went up around the Olympic peninsula in WA and down to SF. I think we did it in 6 weeks or something like that. I’d Highly recommend doing the Peninsula. It was my favorite part of the trip. There’s a reason it’s often on the lists of the most beautiful places in the world.
As for the bike, if it were me, I’d do the giant rear cog thing you mentioned and keep the double in the front. You might well need a new long cage derailer. As for gear, if you can, I’d drop the money in a new fork. I know Columbus, and I think a couple others, make carbon forks with mid-blade bosses for mounting racks. Check with someone knowledgeable to make sure it won’t mess up your geometry. I know it’ll change it, but will it change it too much/in a bad way? Then use front low rider racks. This is where you want your weight on a long road tour like that. Try to find the recent thread about front vs. rear loading. I bet a nice Ti cross bike with bags front and rear with light weight gear will make a sweet touring rig. Look into the Arkel Dry Lights (they spell it all ******** to try to seem cool or something, but I don’t remember how) for use as rear panniers. They weight around a pound and are completely waterproof. They aren’t huge, which you want for rear bags imo, but I assume you’re going with compact ultra-light backpacking gear given your needs for light weight, etc. That’s the way I prefer to tour also. Get yourself a nice inflatable pad(Klimit is both nice and cheap), compact bag, and tent if you don’t already have those. Between those items and a light bike, you’re most of the way to a nice light, compact touring set-up.
As for the bike, if it were me, I’d do the giant rear cog thing you mentioned and keep the double in the front. You might well need a new long cage derailer. As for gear, if you can, I’d drop the money in a new fork. I know Columbus, and I think a couple others, make carbon forks with mid-blade bosses for mounting racks. Check with someone knowledgeable to make sure it won’t mess up your geometry. I know it’ll change it, but will it change it too much/in a bad way? Then use front low rider racks. This is where you want your weight on a long road tour like that. Try to find the recent thread about front vs. rear loading. I bet a nice Ti cross bike with bags front and rear with light weight gear will make a sweet touring rig. Look into the Arkel Dry Lights (they spell it all ******** to try to seem cool or something, but I don’t remember how) for use as rear panniers. They weight around a pound and are completely waterproof. They aren’t huge, which you want for rear bags imo, but I assume you’re going with compact ultra-light backpacking gear given your needs for light weight, etc. That’s the way I prefer to tour also. Get yourself a nice inflatable pad(Klimit is both nice and cheap), compact bag, and tent if you don’t already have those. Between those items and a light bike, you’re most of the way to a nice light, compact touring set-up.
04-18-18, 07:36 AM
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Personally, I’d plan more than a month to do that trip and enjoy yourself. I went up around the Olympic peninsula in WA and down to SF. I think we did it in 6 weeks or something like that. I’d Highly recommend doing the Peninsula. It was my favorite part of the trip. There’s a reason it’s often on the lists of the most beautiful places in the world.
As for the bike, if it were me, I’d do the giant rear cog thing you mentioned and keep the double in the front. You might well need a new long cage derailer. As for gear, if you can, I’d drop the money in a new fork. I know Columbus, and I think a couple others, make carbon forks with mid-blade bosses for mounting racks. Check with someone knowledgeable to make sure it won’t mess up your geometry. I know it’ll change it, but will it change it too much/in a bad way? Then use front low rider racks. This is where you want your weight on a long road tour like that. Try to find the recent thread about front vs. rear loading. I bet a nice Ti cross bike with bags front and rear with light weight gear will make a sweet touring rig. Look into the Arkel Dry Lights (they spell it all ******** to try to seem cool or something, but I don’t remember how) for use as rear panniers. They weight around a pound and are completely waterproof. They aren’t huge, which you want for rear bags imo, but I assume you’re going with compact ultra-light backpacking gear given your needs for light weight, etc. That’s the way I prefer to tour also. Get yourself a nice inflatable pad(Klimit is both nice and cheap), compact bag, and tent if you don’t already have those. Between those items and a light bike, you’re most of the way to a nice light, compact touring set-up.
As for the bike, if it were me, I’d do the giant rear cog thing you mentioned and keep the double in the front. You might well need a new long cage derailer. As for gear, if you can, I’d drop the money in a new fork. I know Columbus, and I think a couple others, make carbon forks with mid-blade bosses for mounting racks. Check with someone knowledgeable to make sure it won’t mess up your geometry. I know it’ll change it, but will it change it too much/in a bad way? Then use front low rider racks. This is where you want your weight on a long road tour like that. Try to find the recent thread about front vs. rear loading. I bet a nice Ti cross bike with bags front and rear with light weight gear will make a sweet touring rig. Look into the Arkel Dry Lights (they spell it all ******** to try to seem cool or something, but I don’t remember how) for use as rear panniers. They weight around a pound and are completely waterproof. They aren’t huge, which you want for rear bags imo, but I assume you’re going with compact ultra-light backpacking gear given your needs for light weight, etc. That’s the way I prefer to tour also. Get yourself a nice inflatable pad(Klimit is both nice and cheap), compact bag, and tent if you don’t already have those. Between those items and a light bike, you’re most of the way to a nice light, compact touring set-up.
I can only think of 3 carbon-forks for thru-axle disc-brake with rack points:
-Fyxation
-Rodeo Labs
-Niner
I do not believe the frame the OP is interested in will work with Rodeo;s/Niner's, as BD looks to be using old-school 1-1/8" straight bore headtube and therefore steers...and the Rodeo and Niner are tapered steer...the Fyxation OTOH would probably work.
https://www.fyxation.com/products/ca...adventure-fork
04-18-18, 07:59 AM
#7
Senior Member
Ah. Didn’t realize it was through-axle. In that case I personally would recommend a new fork and front wheel with a standard skewer front axle for a touring set-up. Putting on a dynohub would be ideal, since you know you Always have lights and can charge devices, but that’s not keeping things the lowest budget possible... Who knows who might have a replacement in stock for the current wheel if something happens on the road. That could be a trip ender, or at very least a major hassle and leave you getting a bus to the nearest town with a shop that has the parts. I’d put that as by far the biggest downfall of the bike. Personally, I wouldn’t even tour on it. I’d replace it. At least the coast tour is an easy one and one with the least worry about bike failures.
04-19-18, 12:47 AM
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I like the idea of the Wolftooth Tanpan. I didn't even know there were such things that makes Shimano 10 and 11 speed road shifters work with 10 and 11 speed mountain bike rear derailleurs!
Would you have a specific recommendations on the 11/42 cassette and LR derailleur? Brand, make, model?
What do you think of the Shimano SLX M7000 11 Speed 11-42t Cassette? ChainReactionCycle has it for only $56. I'm a newb when it comes to components especially mountain bike parts.
Did you install these parts yourself? If so, was it easy to do?
There's a community bike shop that we can pay to use the shop and tools. If it's not too difficult of a task, I would love to learn and do it myself. I'm all about self-reliance. ;0)
04-19-18, 01:24 AM
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3Speed:
Thank you for the compliment regarding the beauty of the west coast! I am from the Pacific NW and lived in SF for 10 years so I completely agree that it is magical.
I'm not quite clear on my understanding as to why you're suggesting a new fork? Why is it important to have the load in the front instead of the back? Since I'm only 108 pounds and I'm thinking that my panniers with rack will be about 30 lbs total, the combine weight of 140 lbs or so is still less than the weight of your typical male rider. Would that still be an issue regarding weight distribution on the bike?
Thanks for the suggestion on the Arkel Dry Lights!!! I really like the idea of those and how much lighter they are then the Ortlieb Back Roller Panniers. You just saved me 3 lbs. The Arket Dry Lights are simply kayaking dry bags with straps to attach to a bike.
Based on my experience with backcountry backpacking, I enjoy those trips so much more when I go ultralight. I'm guessing it will be the same with touring on a bike. I rather do with less and yet still be self sufficient but not be a lug mule.
I'm glad to hear the coast tour is an easy one since it'll be my first touring trip. I like to work up to the Northern Tier across America eventually and maybe then, I be able to upgrade to the dynohub that you suggested.
Thank you for the compliment regarding the beauty of the west coast! I am from the Pacific NW and lived in SF for 10 years so I completely agree that it is magical.
I'm not quite clear on my understanding as to why you're suggesting a new fork? Why is it important to have the load in the front instead of the back? Since I'm only 108 pounds and I'm thinking that my panniers with rack will be about 30 lbs total, the combine weight of 140 lbs or so is still less than the weight of your typical male rider. Would that still be an issue regarding weight distribution on the bike?
Thanks for the suggestion on the Arkel Dry Lights!!! I really like the idea of those and how much lighter they are then the Ortlieb Back Roller Panniers. You just saved me 3 lbs. The Arket Dry Lights are simply kayaking dry bags with straps to attach to a bike.
Based on my experience with backcountry backpacking, I enjoy those trips so much more when I go ultralight. I'm guessing it will be the same with touring on a bike. I rather do with less and yet still be self sufficient but not be a lug mule.
I'm glad to hear the coast tour is an easy one since it'll be my first touring trip. I like to work up to the Northern Tier across America eventually and maybe then, I be able to upgrade to the dynohub that you suggested.
Last edited by dmeans2anend; 04-19-18 at 01:29 AM.
04-19-18, 03:49 AM
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https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/1140550-carrying-cargo-front-paniers-versus-rear.html
This is why I say what I do about the front racks. It’s not just a weight thing(though that is a factor), but more so a matter of handling. You can get an adaptor to attach a rack to your fork even if the fork doesn’t have the mounts for it. Anyone you see with a mountain of gear on the rear is 99% likely to have the opposite mindset as you - They’re usually the type that don’t care about weight, handling, or speed, and are touring with a different mindset. Of course there’s nothing wrong with that, but it’s likely not what you will want from what I’ve gathered. Personally, I’d say go ahead and do the coast tour with the current fork and front wheel due to the fact that they’re expensive to replace and you can’t get too stranded riding the west coast. If you decide to do something that will leave you in more remote places like riding across the country, I’d recommend replacing the fork and front wheel with more common parts. The parts on your bike may not be easy to replace if they fail on tour. That could at best cause you to have to wait for shipping of parts ordered online. At worst, it could end your trip or hold you up enough that you can’t complete a trip and have to come home before the final destination.
This is why I say what I do about the front racks. It’s not just a weight thing(though that is a factor), but more so a matter of handling. You can get an adaptor to attach a rack to your fork even if the fork doesn’t have the mounts for it. Anyone you see with a mountain of gear on the rear is 99% likely to have the opposite mindset as you - They’re usually the type that don’t care about weight, handling, or speed, and are touring with a different mindset. Of course there’s nothing wrong with that, but it’s likely not what you will want from what I’ve gathered. Personally, I’d say go ahead and do the coast tour with the current fork and front wheel due to the fact that they’re expensive to replace and you can’t get too stranded riding the west coast. If you decide to do something that will leave you in more remote places like riding across the country, I’d recommend replacing the fork and front wheel with more common parts. The parts on your bike may not be easy to replace if they fail on tour. That could at best cause you to have to wait for shipping of parts ordered online. At worst, it could end your trip or hold you up enough that you can’t complete a trip and have to come home before the final destination.
04-19-18, 07:04 AM
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Thanks Alan.
I like the idea of the Wolftooth Tanpan. I didn't even know there were such things that makes Shimano 10 and 11 speed road shifters work with 10 and 11 speed mountain bike rear derailleurs!
Would you have a specific recommendations on the 11/42 cassette and LR derailleur? Brand, make, model?
What do you think of the Shimano SLX M7000 11 Speed 11-42t Cassette? ChainReactionCycle has it for only $56. I'm a newb when it comes to components especially mountain bike parts.
Did you install these parts yourself? If so, was it easy to do?
There's a community bike shop that we can pay to use the shop and tools. If it's not too difficult of a task, I would love to learn and do it myself. I'm all about self-reliance. ;0)
I like the idea of the Wolftooth Tanpan. I didn't even know there were such things that makes Shimano 10 and 11 speed road shifters work with 10 and 11 speed mountain bike rear derailleurs!
Would you have a specific recommendations on the 11/42 cassette and LR derailleur? Brand, make, model?
What do you think of the Shimano SLX M7000 11 Speed 11-42t Cassette? ChainReactionCycle has it for only $56. I'm a newb when it comes to components especially mountain bike parts.
Did you install these parts yourself? If so, was it easy to do?
There's a community bike shop that we can pay to use the shop and tools. If it's not too difficult of a task, I would love to learn and do it myself. I'm all about self-reliance. ;0)
04-19-18, 07:16 AM
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I suppose it depends on what your great deal is, pricewise.
As a petite person, if you though you could fit on a 43, this is a pretty screaming deal for $315, and would be pretty much ready to go without having to buy a bike and modify/upgrade parts: BikeIsland.com - Bicycle Parts, Accessories and Clothing at Affordable Prices with Free Shipping
Geometry: TOURING FRAME GEOMETRY
As to if rears are enough, if you pack incredibly lightly maybe, but I'd want front panniers too.
As a petite person, if you though you could fit on a 43, this is a pretty screaming deal for $315, and would be pretty much ready to go without having to buy a bike and modify/upgrade parts: BikeIsland.com - Bicycle Parts, Accessories and Clothing at Affordable Prices with Free Shipping
Geometry: TOURING FRAME GEOMETRY
As to if rears are enough, if you pack incredibly lightly maybe, but I'd want front panniers too.
04-20-18, 07:20 AM
#13
Senior Member
Thanks Alan.
I like the idea of the Wolftooth Tanpan. I didn't even know there were such things that makes Shimano 10 and 11 speed road shifters work with 10 and 11 speed mountain bike rear derailleurs!
Would you have a specific recommendations on the 11/42 cassette and LR derailleur? Brand, make, model?
What do you think of the Shimano SLX M7000 11 Speed 11-42t Cassette? ChainReactionCycle has it for only $56. I'm a newb when it comes to components especially mountain bike parts.
Did you install these parts yourself? If so, was it easy to do?
There's a community bike shop that we can pay to use the shop and tools. If it's not too difficult of a task, I would love to learn and do it myself. I'm all about self-reliance. ;0)
I like the idea of the Wolftooth Tanpan. I didn't even know there were such things that makes Shimano 10 and 11 speed road shifters work with 10 and 11 speed mountain bike rear derailleurs!
Would you have a specific recommendations on the 11/42 cassette and LR derailleur? Brand, make, model?
What do you think of the Shimano SLX M7000 11 Speed 11-42t Cassette? ChainReactionCycle has it for only $56. I'm a newb when it comes to components especially mountain bike parts.
Did you install these parts yourself? If so, was it easy to do?
There's a community bike shop that we can pay to use the shop and tools. If it's not too difficult of a task, I would love to learn and do it myself. I'm all about self-reliance. ;0)
04-20-18, 07:25 AM
#14
Senior Member
I suppose it depends on what your great deal is, pricewise.
As a petite person, if you though you could fit on a 43, this is a pretty screaming deal for $315, and would be pretty much ready to go without having to buy a bike and modify/upgrade parts: BikeIsland.com - Bicycle Parts, Accessories and Clothing at Affordable Prices with Free Shipping
Geometry: TOURING FRAME GEOMETRY
As to if rears are enough, if you pack incredibly lightly maybe, but I'd want front panniers too.
As a petite person, if you though you could fit on a 43, this is a pretty screaming deal for $315, and would be pretty much ready to go without having to buy a bike and modify/upgrade parts: BikeIsland.com - Bicycle Parts, Accessories and Clothing at Affordable Prices with Free Shipping
Geometry: TOURING FRAME GEOMETRY
As to if rears are enough, if you pack incredibly lightly maybe, but I'd want front panniers too.
04-20-18, 01:54 PM
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This bike is 2017 model so I'm thinking that it is hyperglide since uniglide are made on older Shimano bikes.
Modern bikes have the hyperglide. Reference : Shelton Brown.
04-20-18, 02:39 PM
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Please clarify. I'm not sure what ultraglide freehub are? Do you mean difference between "hyperglide" and "uniglide" hub?
This bike is 2017 model so I'm thinking that it is hyperglide since uniglide are made on older Shimano bikes.
Modern bikes have the hyperglide. Reference : Shelton Brown.
This bike is 2017 model so I'm thinking that it is hyperglide since uniglide are made on older Shimano bikes.
Modern bikes have the hyperglide. Reference : Shelton Brown.
04-20-18, 03:27 PM
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I checked Shelton Brown's website regarding this and it states:
["Road" vs "Mountain" Hubs
There is no interchangeability issue between "Road" vs "Mountain" cassettes and hubs as long as the number of sprockets matches. Although "Road" and "Mountain" hubs are no different as far as cassette fitting is concerned, they are different in terms of overall spacing. "Road" hubs generally use 130 mm spacing, while "mountain" hubs are 135 mm.
"Mountain" hubs will likely be slightly better sealed against dirt and mud than "road" hubs, but this is rarely an issue in practice. The wider 135 mm spacing will generally result in a slightly stronger wheel due to reduced dishing of the spokes. ]
Checking on the specs of my bike, it shows for the rear hub : 14G*32H, 135mm.
Based on the 135mm, I think the existing hub is already designed to be compatible with the mountain hub spacing of 135mm and I'll be putting in Shimano XT M8000 Cassette and Rear DR so I'm thinking it should all work as long as I add the Wolftooth Tanpan as recommended by Alan as the ratio changing pulley between the Shimano road shifters and the Shimano Mountain rear DR.
Let me know if I'm still off track.... ??? Thanks!
04-20-18, 03:51 PM
#19
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Thanks for the suggestion. The Windsor Tourist is a streaming deal but isn't the titanium MB Fantom Cross bike that I like better for several reasons:
Pros:
* Lighter weight : Titanium vs. Steel -- oh she's a beauty
* Weather resistance -- titanium vs. steel (rusting.... )
* Better components - Shimano Ultegra & Shimano XT instead of Shimano Tiagra
* Has mechanical disc brakes instead of cantilever
Cons:
* Only rear rack braze-ons
* CX bike geometry instead of full touring geometry.
Ok.... tell why not.... please don't hold back because I really want to learn....
Pros:
* Lighter weight : Titanium vs. Steel -- oh she's a beauty
* Weather resistance -- titanium vs. steel (rusting.... )
* Better components - Shimano Ultegra & Shimano XT instead of Shimano Tiagra
* Has mechanical disc brakes instead of cantilever
Cons:
* Only rear rack braze-ons
* CX bike geometry instead of full touring geometry.
Ok.... tell why not.... please don't hold back because I really want to learn....
04-20-18, 03:56 PM
#20
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Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
I checked Shelton Brown's website regarding this and it states:
["Road" vs "Mountain" Hubs
There is no interchangeability issue between "Road" vs "Mountain" cassettes and hubs as long as the number of sprockets matches. Although "Road" and "Mountain" hubs are no different as far as cassette fitting is concerned, they are different in terms of overall spacing. "Road" hubs generally use 130 mm spacing, while "mountain" hubs are 135 mm.
"Mountain" hubs will likely be slightly better sealed against dirt and mud than "road" hubs, but this is rarely an issue in practice. The wider 135 mm spacing will generally result in a slightly stronger wheel due to reduced dishing of the spokes. ]
Checking on the specs of my bike, it shows for the rear hub : 14G*32H, 135mm.
Based on the 135mm, I think the existing hub is already designed to be compatible with the mountain hub spacing of 135mm and I'll be putting in Shimano XT M8000 Cassette and Rear DR so I'm thinking it should all work as long as I add the Wolftooth Tanpan as recommended by Alan as the ratio changing pulley between the Shimano road shifters and the Shimano Mountain rear DR.
Let me know if I'm still off track.... ??? Thanks!
I checked Shelton Brown's website regarding this and it states:
["Road" vs "Mountain" Hubs
There is no interchangeability issue between "Road" vs "Mountain" cassettes and hubs as long as the number of sprockets matches. Although "Road" and "Mountain" hubs are no different as far as cassette fitting is concerned, they are different in terms of overall spacing. "Road" hubs generally use 130 mm spacing, while "mountain" hubs are 135 mm.
"Mountain" hubs will likely be slightly better sealed against dirt and mud than "road" hubs, but this is rarely an issue in practice. The wider 135 mm spacing will generally result in a slightly stronger wheel due to reduced dishing of the spokes. ]
Checking on the specs of my bike, it shows for the rear hub : 14G*32H, 135mm.
Based on the 135mm, I think the existing hub is already designed to be compatible with the mountain hub spacing of 135mm and I'll be putting in Shimano XT M8000 Cassette and Rear DR so I'm thinking it should all work as long as I add the Wolftooth Tanpan as recommended by Alan as the ratio changing pulley between the Shimano road shifters and the Shimano Mountain rear DR.
Let me know if I'm still off track.... ??? Thanks!
The 11s MTB cassette is designed to overhang the MTB freehub which is a bit less wide. Whereas the road isn't. So to use an MTB cassette on a road hub you'd need to shim it a skoche. Both have the same splines and lockring threading, but MTB is different than road in the overhang.
https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/11-speed-shimano-xt-cassette-on-11-speed-road-hub/
04-20-18, 05:05 PM
#21
Senior Member
Thanks for the suggestion. The Windsor Tourist is a streaming deal but isn't the titanium MB Fantom Cross bike that I like better for several reasons:
Pros:
* Lighter weight : Titanium vs. Steel -- oh she's a beauty
* Weather resistance -- titanium vs. steel (rusting.... )
* Better components - Shimano Ultegra & Shimano XT instead of Shimano Tiagra
* Has mechanical disc brakes instead of cantilever
Cons:
* Only rear rack braze-ons
* CX bike geometry instead of full touring geometry.
Ok.... tell why not.... please don't hold back because I really want to learn....
Pros:
* Lighter weight : Titanium vs. Steel -- oh she's a beauty
* Weather resistance -- titanium vs. steel (rusting.... )
* Better components - Shimano Ultegra & Shimano XT instead of Shimano Tiagra
* Has mechanical disc brakes instead of cantilever
Cons:
* Only rear rack braze-ons
* CX bike geometry instead of full touring geometry.
Ok.... tell why not.... please don't hold back because I really want to learn....
04-20-18, 10:56 PM
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When you installed the Wolftooth Tanpan, it states to install new shift cables.
a) Since the bike has 6800 road shifters but M8000 mountain derailleurs, do you have to use "road" shift cables, or "mountain" shift cables, or "universal road/mtn" shift cables? Or does it even matter.
I wish there was installation video. I read the Tanpan installation instruction by Wolftooth and wasn't quite clear on it all.
04-21-18, 03:18 PM
#23
Senior Member
Alan,
When you installed the Wolftooth Tanpan, it states to install new shift cables.
a) Since the bike has 6800 road shifters but M8000 mountain derailleurs, do you have to use "road" shift cables, or "mountain" shift cables, or "universal road/mtn" shift cables? Or does it even matter.
I wish there was installation video. I read the Tanpan installation instruction by Wolftooth and wasn't quite clear on it all.
When you installed the Wolftooth Tanpan, it states to install new shift cables.
a) Since the bike has 6800 road shifters but M8000 mountain derailleurs, do you have to use "road" shift cables, or "mountain" shift cables, or "universal road/mtn" shift cables? Or does it even matter.
I wish there was installation video. I read the Tanpan installation instruction by Wolftooth and wasn't quite clear on it all.
04-21-18, 06:04 PM
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I know Wolftooth recommends Jagwire Sport Slick Stainless Shifting Cables which are universal for mtn or road, and WT sells it on their website. I put Jagwire on my carbon road bike last year and love it.
However, when I looked at Shimano shift cable wires online, I noticed Shimano has two different products: one for "MTN" Shift cable and another completely separate box for "Road" shift cable which got me all confused.
I just thought they were the same too.
04-21-18, 10:08 PM
#25
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I am currently shopping for a light touring bike to do the Pacific Coast route from Seattle to San Francisco in August.
I have found a "used" 2017 Motobecane Fantom Cross Team Titanium Cyclocross bike in my size with mechanical disc brakes.
Q1) For all those with the same bike, how has your experience been touring with it? Pros and Cons.
Q2) Being Petite (5'-3" & 110 pounds), I will need to make some changes in order to get much lower gearing around 20" to climb mountain passes. The current setup is 11 speed Shimano Ultegra 6800 groupset with 46/36t crankset & 11/32t cassette. Any suggestions on changes to get the lowest gearing possible and still be economical in making these changes?
Would it be possible to change cassette to 11/42t with and extender like a Wolf Tooth Roadlink on the existing setup?
**Crankset SHIMANO, FC-6800, ULTEGRA DOUBLE HOLLOWTECH 2, FOR REAR 11- SPEED, 46X36T, Crank 170mm FOR 49-52CM
**Bottom Bracket Shimano Ultegra External Outboard 68mm
** Front Derailleur SHIMANO, FD-6800 ULTEGRA FOR FRONT DOUBLE & REAR 11-SPEED BAND TYPE(31.8MM)
** Rear Derailleur SHIMANO, RD-6800, ULTEGRA GS 11-SPEED, COMPATIBLE WITH LOW GEAR 28-32T FOR DOUBLE
**Shifters SHIMANO, ST-6800, ULTEGRA (22 gears total)
**Cassette/Freewheel SHIMANO CASSETTE, CS-6800, ULTEGRA, 11-S, 11-12-13-14-16-18-20-22-25-28-32T
**Chain SHIMANO CHAIN, CN-HG700-11, FOR 11-SPEED 110 LINKS
**Front Hub Thru-Axle Front, SEALED BEARINGS.POLISH ANODIZED BLK. 14G*32H, W/GRAVITY LASER-ETCHED
**Rear Hub SEALED BEARINGS.POLISH ANODIZED BLK. 14G*32H,135mm.W/GRAVITY LASER-ETCHED
**Spokes F/R:14/15G*32/32PCS S.S. XD BLACK , FRONT SPOKES / REAR
Q3) Has anyone actually done the gearing changes on this same bike to convert it to a light touring bike?
Q4) It only has braze-ons for a rear rack panniers and carbon fiber fork. Will rear panniers be adequate for camping, cooking, and clothing for riding in August for a month down the Pacific Coast? It would be mind 1st long touring trip. I'm a complete newbie on touring although I am an experienced road cyclist.
I like the idea of titanium because it is rides smooth, lighter than steel, and weather-proof.
Any suggestion or comments would be greatly appreciated.
I have found a "used" 2017 Motobecane Fantom Cross Team Titanium Cyclocross bike in my size with mechanical disc brakes.
Q1) For all those with the same bike, how has your experience been touring with it? Pros and Cons.
Q2) Being Petite (5'-3" & 110 pounds), I will need to make some changes in order to get much lower gearing around 20" to climb mountain passes. The current setup is 11 speed Shimano Ultegra 6800 groupset with 46/36t crankset & 11/32t cassette. Any suggestions on changes to get the lowest gearing possible and still be economical in making these changes?
Would it be possible to change cassette to 11/42t with and extender like a Wolf Tooth Roadlink on the existing setup?
**Crankset SHIMANO, FC-6800, ULTEGRA DOUBLE HOLLOWTECH 2, FOR REAR 11- SPEED, 46X36T, Crank 170mm FOR 49-52CM
**Bottom Bracket Shimano Ultegra External Outboard 68mm
** Front Derailleur SHIMANO, FD-6800 ULTEGRA FOR FRONT DOUBLE & REAR 11-SPEED BAND TYPE(31.8MM)
** Rear Derailleur SHIMANO, RD-6800, ULTEGRA GS 11-SPEED, COMPATIBLE WITH LOW GEAR 28-32T FOR DOUBLE
**Shifters SHIMANO, ST-6800, ULTEGRA (22 gears total)
**Cassette/Freewheel SHIMANO CASSETTE, CS-6800, ULTEGRA, 11-S, 11-12-13-14-16-18-20-22-25-28-32T
**Chain SHIMANO CHAIN, CN-HG700-11, FOR 11-SPEED 110 LINKS
**Front Hub Thru-Axle Front, SEALED BEARINGS.POLISH ANODIZED BLK. 14G*32H, W/GRAVITY LASER-ETCHED
**Rear Hub SEALED BEARINGS.POLISH ANODIZED BLK. 14G*32H,135mm.W/GRAVITY LASER-ETCHED
**Spokes F/R:14/15G*32/32PCS S.S. XD BLACK , FRONT SPOKES / REAR
Q3) Has anyone actually done the gearing changes on this same bike to convert it to a light touring bike?
Q4) It only has braze-ons for a rear rack panniers and carbon fiber fork. Will rear panniers be adequate for camping, cooking, and clothing for riding in August for a month down the Pacific Coast? It would be mind 1st long touring trip. I'm a complete newbie on touring although I am an experienced road cyclist.
I like the idea of titanium because it is rides smooth, lighter than steel, and weather-proof.
Any suggestion or comments would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 2011 Motobecane Fantom Pro CX aluminum Ultegra drivetrain it has a carbon fiber fork, seat post and handlebars. I rode this bike on the Katy, GAP C&O , and Mickleson Trail in South Dakota. This was in 2017 the bike already had thousands of miles and after a few years was still up to the task however it was only loaded down with a seatpost bag and a frame bag and the extra weight of my backpack. So I’m not sure about the other equipment but I would be confident that the bike would be up to the task.