Decent Steel Bars
#1
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From: USA
Bikes: 1987 Schwinn High Sierra, 1991 GT Tachyon, 1999 Bike Friday Air Friday, 1986 Bridgestone MB-2, 1995 Trek 970 SHX, One One Inbred, 1986 Specialized Rockhopper Jr., 1987 Schwinn Sierra, (formerly owned): 1995 Cannondale R800C, 1988 Schwinn High Sierra
Decent Steel Bars
Hello,
I pull rather hard on my handlebars, and on the bikes I ride a lot the aluminum bars will often develop a creaking/light popping sound when under a load (both flat bars and bullhorns). I've been looking for steel bar options in the trekking bar/dirt drop realm, but haven't seen many. $50 or less would be ideal. I don't really care about light weight here, I'm just looking for something strong with a good fatigue life. Does anybody have any suggestions? I have access to machining and metalworking facilities, so I could make/modify my own if I really wanted to, but getting everything symmetrical would be difficult, and it would take a lot of time.
Thanks,
HopHornbeam
I pull rather hard on my handlebars, and on the bikes I ride a lot the aluminum bars will often develop a creaking/light popping sound when under a load (both flat bars and bullhorns). I've been looking for steel bar options in the trekking bar/dirt drop realm, but haven't seen many. $50 or less would be ideal. I don't really care about light weight here, I'm just looking for something strong with a good fatigue life. Does anybody have any suggestions? I have access to machining and metalworking facilities, so I could make/modify my own if I really wanted to, but getting everything symmetrical would be difficult, and it would take a lot of time.
Thanks,
HopHornbeam
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Thailand..........currently Nakhon Ricefield, moving to the beach soon.
Bikes: inferior steel....alas....noodly aluminium assploded
how 'bout some used/ebay motorcycle bars?
i believe they have the same OD as aluminum bicycle bars,
so's you can still use your mtb brakes and shifters.
ID will be a bit larger, so inserts may need a spacer thingy.
i believe they have the same OD as aluminum bicycle bars,
so's you can still use your mtb brakes and shifters.
ID will be a bit larger, so inserts may need a spacer thingy.
#3
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Montreal Canada
Given that riders much stronger than us use aluminum and cf bars all the time, I would suggest getting all of your bike parts checked for tightness and that things are in proper condition. Stem bolts of all kinds etc
Unseen diagnosing is of course impossible, but you may have a preexisting problem with your bike.
Around here, cheap heavy steel straight bars will be found in any used bike shop, if they haven't recycled them.
sprint away!
Unseen diagnosing is of course impossible, but you may have a preexisting problem with your bike.
Around here, cheap heavy steel straight bars will be found in any used bike shop, if they haven't recycled them.
sprint away!
#4
The creaking could easily be from corrosion in the bar/stem interface. I sweat a lot and dump water on my head when it's really hot. Several times my road bike had creaking as a result of corrosion. Cleaned up that area. Creaking gone.
#5
Overdoing projects

Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Rotterdam, former republic of the Netherlands
Bikes: Batavus Randonneur GL, Gazelle Orange Excellent, Gazelle Super Licht, Gazelle Grand Tourist, Gazelle Lausanne, Gazelle Tandem, Koga-Miyata SilverAce, Koga-Miyata WorldTraveller
Ergotec has a number of steel and even stainless steel handlebar models and they offer Safety level ratings for each model. That being said, all of their Level 5/6 models are aluminum mountain bike models.
I have mounted an inverted Stuttgarter handlebar in stainless steel, as it is close to an inverted North Road handlebar, on my girlfriend's bike and they seem to hold up just fine.
You could also consider switching to a different stem like a Nitto V4 stem with two clamps.
I have mounted an inverted Stuttgarter handlebar in stainless steel, as it is close to an inverted North Road handlebar, on my girlfriend's bike and they seem to hold up just fine.
You could also consider switching to a different stem like a Nitto V4 stem with two clamps.
#6
QR-disc must die!!!
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Shenandoah Valley, Northern Virginia.
Bikes: '99 Trek 520, '20 Kona Sutra (FOR SALE 48cm), '21 Simon-Bikes mini-velo and a chromoly-framed folding bicycle with drop-bars and V-brakes, that rolls even while folded.
Are there any drop-bars in cro-mo?
#8
As above, it's sort of a crazy assumption that you are so singularly strong that you can cause a problem with your bars that nobody else has. I guarantee that the problem is one of assembly or cleanliness and not your overwhelming strength.
#9
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Joined: Aug 2019
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From: Vermont
Bikes: Bruce Gordon Rock and Road
Creaking would mean movement, to me. If it is a crack, it probably would have propagated by now. Thus, I am persuaded to agree with Indy that something is loose. If the stem is steel and the handlebar aluminum, there is likely to be corrosion between them. Perhaps if you disassemble, clean and reassemble (with anti-seize compound) the creaking will disappear.
Good luck
Good luck
#10
Thread Starter
Newbie

Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 24
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From: USA
Bikes: 1987 Schwinn High Sierra, 1991 GT Tachyon, 1999 Bike Friday Air Friday, 1986 Bridgestone MB-2, 1995 Trek 970 SHX, One One Inbred, 1986 Specialized Rockhopper Jr., 1987 Schwinn Sierra, (formerly owned): 1995 Cannondale R800C, 1988 Schwinn High Sierra
Stems are definitely not loose: the bolts are tight almost to the point of stripping. I suppose that it could be corrosion, but I dont think thats the problem. Either way, Im not looking for a diagnosis, I just wanted to see if there were any decent steel bar options as far as dirt drops and trekking bars go. Really I just like steel better.
#11
Some track racers use steel bars, but I think they have a different geometry in general, like, aren't intended for brake levers or riding anywhere but the drops.
https://www.velodrome.shop/sprint-bars/deda-velocita-chrome-sprint-bars/
Upon looking at theat website, though, it seems that the vast majority of bars they sell for track riding are aluminum. You do you, though.
https://www.velodrome.shop/sprint-bars/deda-velocita-chrome-sprint-bars/
Upon looking at theat website, though, it seems that the vast majority of bars they sell for track riding are aluminum. You do you, though.
#12
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Montreal Canada
There is no down side to you disassembling it all and checking all the surfaces and bolts and greasing. Heck I've snapped seat post bolts from over tightening and I'm a skinny little bugger and not strong. You easily could have a bolt or two that is suspect.
bottom line is that with bikes or cars or whatever, creaking and popping is a sign of loose stuff or metal fatigue.
hell I've had an old car with creaking that I ignored until one of the steering rods broke while driving and pesto, turned out wheel and screeching to a halt.
you don't a want to screw around with a bicycle front end failure, but hey, it's your face.
and even if you are right, you will have to disassemble anyway to put on new bars.
good luck, but it ain't luck, it's proper inspection and assessment, no matter the outcome.
bottom line is that with bikes or cars or whatever, creaking and popping is a sign of loose stuff or metal fatigue.
hell I've had an old car with creaking that I ignored until one of the steering rods broke while driving and pesto, turned out wheel and screeching to a halt.
you don't a want to screw around with a bicycle front end failure, but hey, it's your face.
and even if you are right, you will have to disassemble anyway to put on new bars.
good luck, but it ain't luck, it's proper inspection and assessment, no matter the outcome.
#13
I don't know about modern steel drop or trekking bars (you just have to google search I guess) but you could use some basic steel flat bars with basic steel bar ends. Cheap if not a bit heavy. You could use a set of older steel dropbars from a 1970's era bike and even spread them a bit to create some flair but they have a smaller central stem diameter. I did that for a 1969 Gitane rebuild.
FWIW, although you don't want a diagnosis, someone else with the same issue might. The creaking is from dry metal flexing against dry metal. The same sound sometimes comes from a crank set. Take it apart, add a little bearing grease, and it should go away. Super tightening doesn't work. The little bit of grease won't make your bars fall out.

FWIW, although you don't want a diagnosis, someone else with the same issue might. The creaking is from dry metal flexing against dry metal. The same sound sometimes comes from a crank set. Take it apart, add a little bearing grease, and it should go away. Super tightening doesn't work. The little bit of grease won't make your bars fall out.

Last edited by Happy Feet; 02-26-20 at 07:38 AM.
#14
I am sure there are decent steel bars available (I used to have a set of Tioga cromo steel bars that were literally tough as nails, but that was 25 years ago), but the suggestion to grab just any steel bars is a poor one - most steel handlebars are specced on less expensive bikes because they are cheap, not because they are strong. In fact, most cheap bikes, if actually ridden, will develop what I call 'Sad Bar Syndrome' - where the ends of the bars gradually bend down to make the front of the bike look like a frowny face. Have a close look the next time you see a Huffy locked up somewhere to see what I mean - it happens to almost all of them. Also the clamped segments in the middle of steel bars found on cheap bikes are prone to crush damage when clamped, but this is probably as much to do with the cheaply made stems as the bars.
#15
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Montreal Canada
FWIW, although you don't want a diagnosis, someone else with the same issue might. The creaking is from dry metal flexing against dry metal. The same sound sometimes comes from a crank set. Take it apart, add a little bearing grease, and it should go away. Super tightening doesn't work. The little bit of grease won't make your bars fall out.
Spindle turned fine, not rough, so removed bb, cleaned out the sandy gunk in threads, greased with thick anti seize grease and voila, a few more years out of the bb and nice and quiet immediately.
Ymmv
#16
OP is misdiagnosing the source of the noise coming from the bar/stem interfaces. It's called crystal twinning and is benign. Several of my bikes make those twinning-related noises in humid weather but not in dry weather. Widespread phenomenon, nothing to worry about.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crystal_twinning
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crystal_twinning
#17
And I will just have to assume people will use their due diligence and not pick crappy bars if they go that route. I can't provide a comprehensive shopping guide with every post. The flats in my second pic above are from an entry level commuter e bike. They will never fail from regular use.
Don't mean to be snippy but I took the time and effort to respond to the OP and don't appreciate having that called a poor suggestion because of some vague reference to bike boom era noodlly bars. Chrome rims sucked too - in case anyone needed reminding of the obvious.
Last edited by Happy Feet; 02-26-20 at 11:02 AM.
#18
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Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 1,060
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If you find motorbike bars are a shape you are happy with, they are normally strong. As mentioned, the ends should be the same diameter (just check to be sure). The middle section where it bolts to the stem may need a spacer, depending on what size the opening in your stem is.
#19
I'll maintain that it's a good one, because the problem isn't that his current bars are weak. The problem is the metal is creaking because it's dry.
And I will just have to assume people will use their due diligence and not pick crappy bars if they go that route. I can't provide a comprehensive shopping guide with every post. The flats in my second pic above are from an entry level commuter e bike. They will never fail from regular use.
Don't mean to be snippy but I took the time and effort to respond to the OP and don't appreciate having that called a poor suggestion because of some vague reference to bike boom era noodlly bars. Chrome rims sucked too - in case anyone needed reminding of the obvious.
And I will just have to assume people will use their due diligence and not pick crappy bars if they go that route. I can't provide a comprehensive shopping guide with every post. The flats in my second pic above are from an entry level commuter e bike. They will never fail from regular use.
Don't mean to be snippy but I took the time and effort to respond to the OP and don't appreciate having that called a poor suggestion because of some vague reference to bike boom era noodlly bars. Chrome rims sucked too - in case anyone needed reminding of the obvious.
Your exact suggestion was 'basic steel flat bars' with bar ends. The steel flat bars that come on Huffys and Murrays, the only steel flat bars I know of that would be easy to obtain, are not 'bike boom' steel bars, they are, unfortunately, still being made. The time and effort you spend to make recommendations are wasted if the recommendations are so poor, or so easily misunderstood that they could lead to a person getting what I think of as 'basic steel flat bars'.
There was good advice elsewhere in your comment, but the part about basic steel flat bars was bad advice, at least without a link or advice on how to find some that are not BSO crap, if such bars are available..
#20
Your suggestion implied that 'basic steel flat bars' are easy to come by and 'cheap', and your response to me was that one should know not to get crappy ones... well I am not aware of any non-crappy steel flat bars that would be easy to source, as you implied.
Your exact suggestion was 'basic steel flat bars' with bar ends. The steel flat bars that come on Huffys and Murrays, the only steel flat bars I know of that would be easy to obtain, are not 'bike boom' steel bars, they are, unfortunately, still being made. The time and effort you spend to make recommendations are wasted if the recommendations are so poor, or so easily misunderstood that they could lead to a person getting what I think of as 'basic steel flat bars'.
There was good advice elsewhere in your comment, but the part about basic steel flat bars was bad advice, at least without a link or advice on how to find some that are not BSO crap, if such bars are available..
Your exact suggestion was 'basic steel flat bars' with bar ends. The steel flat bars that come on Huffys and Murrays, the only steel flat bars I know of that would be easy to obtain, are not 'bike boom' steel bars, they are, unfortunately, still being made. The time and effort you spend to make recommendations are wasted if the recommendations are so poor, or so easily misunderstood that they could lead to a person getting what I think of as 'basic steel flat bars'.
There was good advice elsewhere in your comment, but the part about basic steel flat bars was bad advice, at least without a link or advice on how to find some that are not BSO crap, if such bars are available..
I was trying not to be snippy but now you are just being ridiculously obtuse. Steel flat bars, like those commonly sold in mom and pop bike stores are multiple degrees stronger than are needed for the application. If you aren't well versed in parts and building bikes don't try to take someone who is to task.
Common sense tells us this because:
a. you don't hear of people routinely needing to go to the store to replace their bent handle bars and...
b. just don't hear of industry recalls for basic steel flat bars because of weakness.
But, you are welcome to try and find the lowest example of a bicycle possible and scour the interwebs trying to find a random picture somewhere of a flat bar that bent on a bike. Here's a starting place (though I suspect they are all fine): https://www.theatlantic.com/photo/20...cycles/556268/
Last edited by Happy Feet; 02-26-20 at 03:04 PM.
#22
Whatever. Keep digging your hole. You show your ignorance when you say: well I am not aware of any non-crappy steel flat bars that would be easy to source.
I was trying not to be snippy but now you are just being ridiculously obtuse. Steel flat bars, like those commonly sold in mom and pop bike stores are multiple degrees stronger than are needed for the application. If you aren't well versed in parts and building bikes don't try to take someone who is to task.
Common sense tells us this because:
a. you don't hear of people routinely needing to go to the store to replace their bent handle bars and...
b. just don't hear of industry recalls for basic steel flat bars because of weakness.
But, you are welcome to try and find the lowest example of a bicycle possible and scour the interwebs trying to find a random picture somewhere of a flat bar that bent on a bike. Here's a starting place (though I suspect they are all fine): https://www.theatlantic.com/photo/20...cycles/556268/
I was trying not to be snippy but now you are just being ridiculously obtuse. Steel flat bars, like those commonly sold in mom and pop bike stores are multiple degrees stronger than are needed for the application. If you aren't well versed in parts and building bikes don't try to take someone who is to task.
Common sense tells us this because:
a. you don't hear of people routinely needing to go to the store to replace their bent handle bars and...
b. just don't hear of industry recalls for basic steel flat bars because of weakness.
But, you are welcome to try and find the lowest example of a bicycle possible and scour the interwebs trying to find a random picture somewhere of a flat bar that bent on a bike. Here's a starting place (though I suspect they are all fine): https://www.theatlantic.com/photo/20...cycles/556268/
So these 'basic steel bars' you are talking about don't really exist, except maybe in your imagination, and possibly takeoffs from cheap bikes for the rare occasions that a person riding a Huffy actually gets their bike fixed instead of junking the whole thing, which is common and probably why you don't hear about the bars getting replaced - the rest of the bike is usually trashed by the time the person realizes their bars are messed up..
So it's not that your advice was 'bad', so much that is was 'wrong' and 'useless'.
#23
PS. Happy Feet I looked at a bunch of other sites and cannot find this 'basic steel handlebar'. Please provide a link to prove I am wrong.
#25







