How much can you "just get used to"?
#1
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 13
Likes: 15
From: Provo, Utah
Bikes: Trek 7.1 FX, Giant OCR3
How much can you "just get used to"?
I've been searching for a frame to make my new touring rig. I've built up, ridden, toured, and dismantled a couple bikes now. I have found a couple things I can't "just get used to": 1. A frame that is too small, 2. Weak brakes, 3. Narrow tire clearance. All three of these lessons came from my pet peeves about previous bikes I've built. Most recently, I thought I had solved all of these with a new frame. (It's an old police bike!) As it turns out, number 4 for me is a frame that is too big. I love this bike except for the fact that I can't stratle the bike without leaning to one side because the top tube is the same height as my inseam. It has caused me to crash with the bike in an emergency stop instead of hopping off to the side. Getting on and off is a pain and stopping at traffic lights is scary now. I've had it for about a month, put about 230 miles on it, and I'm pretty sure it's not something I can put up with any longer. I'm not looking for the PERFECT frame, but one that meets these standards and works with components I already have.
Am I just being picky?
What other things could you never get used to?

Am I just being picky?
What other things could you never get used to?

#3
bicycle tourist

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,636
Likes: 471
From: Austin, Texas, USA
Bikes: Trek 520, Lightfoot Ranger, Trek 4500
Bike fit is important because it needs to be comfortable for longer times in the saddle. A frame too large has never been an issue, but I'll pick a stem length and saddle height that makes sense.
Most every thing else I've worked out over time, e.g.
- setting up with low enough gearing to shift down for hills
- using sturdy wheels that will be reliable
- having racks to carry gear I want to carry
etc.
Most every thing else I've worked out over time, e.g.
- setting up with low enough gearing to shift down for hills
- using sturdy wheels that will be reliable
- having racks to carry gear I want to carry
etc.
#4
Senior Member



Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 12,760
Likes: 2,117
From: Madison, WI
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
I've been searching for a frame to make my new touring rig. I've built up, ridden, toured, and dismantled a couple bikes now. I have found a couple things I can't "just get used to": 1. A frame that is too small, 2. Weak brakes, 3. Narrow tire clearance. All three of these lessons came from my pet peeves about previous bikes I've built. Most recently, I thought I had solved all of these with a new frame. (It's an old police bike!) As it turns out, number 4 for me is a frame that is too big. I love this bike except for the fact that I can't stratle the bike without leaning to one side because the top tube is the same height as my inseam. It has caused me to crash with the bike in an emergency stop instead of hopping off to the side. Getting on and off is a pain and stopping at traffic lights is scary now. I've had it for about a month, put about 230 miles on it, and I'm pretty sure it's not something I can put up with any longer. I'm not looking for the PERFECT frame, but one that meets these standards and works with components I already have.
Am I just being picky?
What other things could you never get used to?

Am I just being picky?
What other things could you never get used to?

That front fork looks like it is for a larger wheel size. Are those 26 inch wheels? If that fork is for 700c wheels, perhaps the correct fork would be shorter and give you a lower top tube?
That said, I think every police bike I have seen had a suspension fork. If that frame was designed for a 100mm suspension seatpost, maybe they needed that extra tall fork to make the bike ride right if a solid fork was used instead of a suspension fork?
Just thinking out loud here. If you knew the bike model and year, you might be able to find out if that is the correct fork or it it used a suspension fork.
#5
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 641
Likes: 172
From: Tulsa, OK
Bikes: Co-Motion Americano Pinion P18; Co-Motion Americano Rohloff; Thorn Nomad MkII, Robert Beckman Skakkit (FOR SALE), Santana Tandem, ICE Adventure FS
More accurately, things I MUST have are a correctly sized frame, comfortable seat (for me a leather that has formed to my anatomy), very padded handlebar tops, and water bottles (hate a Camelbak on my back though this qualifies as never got used to).
#6
Mad bike riding scientist




Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 29,209
Likes: 6,286
From: Denver, CO
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
I've been searching for a frame to make my new touring rig. I've built up, ridden, toured, and dismantled a couple bikes now. I have found a couple things I can't "just get used to":
- 1. A frame that is too small,
- 2. Weak brakes,
- 3. Narrow tire clearance. All three of these lessons came from my pet peeves about previous bikes I've built.
- 4 for me is a frame that is too big.
- Number 1: That’s on you. Learn how to size bikes better.
- Number 2: That’s a set up issue. Learn how to set up and adjust brakes properly. I’ve worked on just about every brake out there with the exception of spoon brakes and I can adjust any of them to the point where they will stop the bike when and where I want. My current touring bike has…oh the HORROR!…cantilever brakes! I have no problem hurtling down steep hills with a full touring load at speeds that even I would admit is pretty stupid. Never had a moment where I doubted that my brakes would stop me. I’m also an old mountain biker who learned how to mountain bike on cantilevers and never thought they were inadequate.
- Number 3: Learn how to assess a frame better for touring. I don’t know what bike frame you were trying to use but there are tons of choices out there that allow for all kinds of tire widths.
- Number 4: See number 1
I love this bike except for the fact that I can't stratle the bike without leaning to one side because the top tube is the same height as my inseam. It has caused me to crash with the bike in an emergency stop instead of hopping off to the side. Getting on and off is a pain and stopping at traffic lights is scary now. I've had it for about a month, put about 230 miles on it, and I'm pretty sure it's not something I can put up with any longer. I'm not looking for the PERFECT frame, but one that meets these standards and works with components I already have.
Am I just being picky?
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Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Last edited by cyccommute; 05-22-25 at 09:35 AM.
#8
Clark W. Griswold




Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 18,448
Likes: 6,758
From: ,location, location
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
I wouldn't want to live with a bike that is not the correct size but then again I wouldn't buy a bike that doesn't fit and certainly wouldn't keep it especially not for touring. Weak brakes are usually a function of pads, shoes, cables and housing if using cable actuated stuff and that is easy to fix. There are certainly some really crappy calipers out there that I wouldn't recommend to anyone but I would have just avoided those from the start or replaced them before touring. Narrow tire clearance is something I avoid when getting a bike these days anyway but I have lived with it in my current fleet of bikes, not ideal but I had different tire wants back when I got some of these bikes. Luckily nothing super narrow so not a huge problem.
I would say if you are having issues find a framebuilder and get them to build you something and then have them help you choose components to work best for you. That is a great way to go if you have specific wants and needs. Though plenty of great stock options of frames out there that don't have to be a compromise.
I would say if you are having issues find a framebuilder and get them to build you something and then have them help you choose components to work best for you. That is a great way to go if you have specific wants and needs. Though plenty of great stock options of frames out there that don't have to be a compromise.
#9
Sunshine
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 18,756
Likes: 10,315
From: Des Moines, IA
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Well since it was mentioned, I really cant get used to bikes that are not the correct size.
Seems kinda obvious, especially for an activity that is presumably 4-10 hours in the saddle day after day, but it was mentioned so I guess its not obvious.
Seems kinda obvious, especially for an activity that is presumably 4-10 hours in the saddle day after day, but it was mentioned so I guess its not obvious.
#10
When I worked the odd hour or two at our local bike shop, may it RIP, I was always amazed at the mis-sizing of bikes that people came in on, often looking for a new saddle or handlebar because they just weren't comfortable on their bike. When truth be told, they were two sizes off and nothing could be done to make it comfortable. What's really bad is when it was a new bike purchase and you just know that the bike shop sold the person what they had on the floor and wanted so badly to get rid of it, a very myopic view imo, making that sale today but will never see the person again because they won't continue to ride.
#12
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 266
From: NH
Hah! When I was about 17 years old I retired my Schwinn Varsity and ordered my first high end bike ... a Schwinn Paramount! My local Schwinn dealer said, "Boys your age usually ride a 23" frame" and he ordered one. I was (and still am) about 5'6". I rode the bike maybe two years with the seat as low as it would go right down on the top tube. I sold it to a buddy.
#13
Early-onset OldFartitis




Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,154
Likes: 748
From: USA
Bikes: 1996 Trek 970 ZX Single Track 2x11
I have found a couple things I can't "just get used to": 1. A frame that is too small, 2. Weak brakes, 3. Narrow tire clearance ... number 4 for me is a frame that is too big ... pretty sure it's not something I can put up with any longer. I'm not looking for the PERFECT frame, but one that meets these standards and works with components I already have.
My own preferences center on frames that would normally be considered too small. Yet they fit me better, feel better, cause fewer problems (of aches, strains). As I'm a mostly-upright rider, anymore, so long as the seat tube length and the standover height are great, then I can make adjustments around the reach and stack (ie, via stem+bar changes) to accommodate.
In my case, building-up a '90s Trek 970 to an upright commuter/city bike has done wonders. 2x11spd, suspension seat post, riser/swept bars. And in a puny 16in frame sizing that (with the stem+bar choices) allows my smaller frame to fit very nicely. One great thing is, it's got a sufficiently low SOH to tolerate my short legs. Nearly every other frame on the market just feels too darned big these days. (Surly Troll XS was very close, and the 15.5" and 16.5" Trek MTBs worked well. Most others were too tall SOH, and/or with TT far too long.)
I can't get used to a frame that's a grossly "off" fit. I can't get used to a SOH that's in the noogie-knocking realm. I can't deal with a TT that puts control of the bike and comfort out of reach.
Uncertain what your reach and stack measurements are, for a "perfect" sizing, but Velo-Orange has their Polyvalent Low Kicker step-through frame on sale right now (~$600). For 650B or 26" wheels, with 12x100 and 12x142 hub spacing and through-axles, up to 2.3" tires, made of double-butted 4130 chromoly. With the curved-and-sloped TT it ought to resolve your SOH issue. If you're okay with another build-up, and if the geometry numbers get close to your ideal frame size, it might be a way to keep most of your components and eliminate your primary pet peeves RE your current frame.
https://velo-orange.com/collections/...lyvalent-mk5-1
#14
Senior Member



Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 12,760
Likes: 2,117
From: Madison, WI
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Hah! When I was about 17 years old I retired my Schwinn Varsity and ordered my first high end bike ... a Schwinn Paramount! My local Schwinn dealer said, "Boys your age usually ride a 23" frame" and he ordered one. I was (and still am) about 5'6". I rode the bike maybe two years with the seat as low as it would go right down on the top tube. I sold it to a buddy.
Same as you, seatpost shoved all the way down. Every time I fly out to see her, I see that same bike hanging in the garage with a couple more years of dust on it. She has moved four times since, but still keeps moving that bike from new garage to new garage every time she moves for a new job.




