Thanks to both of you for the quick replies!

The Trek 520 is also "hand made" in Taiwan, so I'm told.
Some people may argue this, but if you really dig down deep, you'll find that they really are made in Taiwan. However, Trek doesn't really want you to know that.
I believe the actual "made in the USA" part is the painting of it.
The Trek 520 was my first touring frame several years ago.

Hmmm.......interesting.

Up until this year, you could tell which Treks were built in Wisconsin and which were built in Asia by the chainstay decal. They've sinced changed the decal to read something like "hand built in USA of domestic and foreign parts" which could mean anything. It seems like Trek is trying the blur the distinction as it has rapidly moved more and more of its production overseas over the last few years. I believe that they've even got an Asian-made carbon frame now.

Hey, whose not doing that these days, eh?
Then they wonder how come sales are down in NA.
Take away the jobs, send them over seas, and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out. :rolleyes:

So if they moved production overseas to reduce cost, the price of the 2006 520 will be lower, right?? ;)

That little American flag sticker on the chainstay was the reason I was willing to shell out the money for that putrid green bicycle. If I buy a Surley LHT and assemble it in my garage, I could say "hand built in the USA" also...

Not bloody likely! That's the reason why the move such manufacturing examples off shore. Bigger profits! If anything, I think you'll find that they may be even a tad costlier this year Anyone know for sure?

Hey, MC, where did you get those fenders that were a "breeze" to install?

Here is a link to the sellers ebay auctions. http://cgi.ebay.com/Bicycle-fenders-...QQcmdZViewItem

I took delivery of my Dark Cherry Pearl frame and fork in a 58 yesterday. I am looking forward to building it with quality parts and probably a hub generator. Going with the Sugino triple crank that uses a plain 'ol square BB and a Chris King headset for starters. Upper Mid-west touring this summer. You betcha.

Kewl!! You'll have to post some pix at one of the free online photo sites and let us know where they are! Have a look at my tag line below -- you may be interested in joining our group. Keep us posted on the blow by blow build up, eh?

Im looking around for a frame to build up for this summers tour.
Looks like the LHT is going to be it :)

I've toured once before on an ancient GT mountainbike(Australia east coast) and I really did not know what I was doing. Still had a suspension fork on the front and flat bars :eek: for the entire tour.
Going to do it different this time.

Anyway, I've been riding/racing/breaking mountain bikes for a while now but never got into the road scene. I dont know anything about the products or how to fix them. Thats why the LHT calls to me.
It seems like this bike can be built up with almost all MTB parts and still be a competent tourer.
That means I can use my old parts and know how to fix them.

Quick question:
Surly's site says cantilever or linear pull brakes. Linear pull brakes are V-brakes right?
If they arent can you put V-brakes on the LHT?
I really dont like canti's and trust my V-brakes more.

Another quick question(sorry so long)
What cranset gearing are most of you LHT owners going with?
Regular MTB cranks would seem to lack in the higher gears but road cranks seem ridiculous.
???

My LHT will have the following braking system on it..

Brakes: Avid Arch Rival (v-brake)
Levers: Avid Speed Dial Ti
Pads: Kool Stop Dual Compound MTB
Boosters: Salsa Arc de Tri-Oomph (silver front & rear)

... and I am currently using the following cranks...

Crank Set: XTR FC-M952-4 Octalink (24/34/46)
Bottom Bracket: XTR BB-M952 Octalink

Hope that helps.

So it looks like the LHT will take v brakes without too much hassle?

Also the xtr crank is just straight MTB gearing. Is this normal/preferred for long tours?
I remember being short of gears on the downhills or even flats and wished for more.
But at the same time, on the ups all I wanted was a smaller gear :D

Nashbar has a 'tour specific' crank thats 28-38-48. That sounds good, but who knows...
Anyone with more gearing advice?

"v-brake" is Shimano's trademark for linear or direct pull brakes.

As far as gearing is concerned, MTB cranks are common with, often, slightly higher gearing on the chainrings. This varies a lot by rider. Some use standard road triples. I run 24/36/48.

Right. As long as the frame has the correct bosses, as has the LHT, they should work fine. Some may argue this, but the better end linears provide for much stronger braking, which I feel is necessary when trying to stop a fully loaded touring bike. :eek:

MTB gearing seems to be the preferred components to use. This is so because they seem to allow for easier pedalling when one is travelling with a fully loaded bike that can get to be rather heavy. The rear cassette can also be an interesting thing to play with as well. My cassette is a Harris Cyclery 14 -34 9spd set up. In combination with the gearing of my front rings and the rear cassette, I can usually find a good combination that can make climbing a tad easier. However, there are the odd cycle tourists that prefer the roadie gear setup.

22-32-48 with an 11-34 cassette.

I'm running V brakes. I also have an XT drivetrain, 9sp 11-34 cassette. I use mine for day rides and the gearing has worked out well for me. I used to have a 105 crankset on it, but I think the XT gearing works well for this bike. I also have downtube shifters.

Heres mine--just finished it this weekend. Its 60cm blue. Sugino XD300 26/36/46 crank, SKS fenders, FD and RD are LX, canti brakes, barcons, speedplay X5 pedals, Jandd expedition rear and extreme front (removed so I could tinker with brakes) racks, FSA orbit headset, Salsa shaft seatpost, Brooks B17 champion saddle (yes, its green!) with copper rails, Nitto classic handlebars, STI brake handles (temporary--removed from another bike), KMC chain, Sram 11-34 cassette. Rides sweet! Puts my Giant OCR tour to shame (compact frame didnt fit well). Very comfy and stable.
The pic shows a tiny bit of my BoB trailer. Rode it today on a 25 mile loop with lots of hills--no problems. Installation of parts was also no problem and my chain-line is near perfect (any combo--no rubbing). Sorry to rattle on--I really love my bike now! :D

Kewl!! The more I see that new Utility Blue colour, the more I like it!!

Howdie -- well, it seems that people are listing down what they have on their Surly's, so, here is what's being transferred from my Schwinn over to the Surly when it get's here this week...

Frame: Surly Long Haul Trucker (LHT) 4130 cro-moly double-butted TIG welded
Fork: Surly 4130 cro-moly, lugged and brazed, tapered curved blade w/low rider rack eyelet.
Crank Set: XTR FC-M952-4 Octalink (24/34/46)
Bottom Bracket: XTR BB-M952 Octalink
Pedals: Kona Jack**** Primo (pinned downhill platforms)
Cassette: Harris Cyclery Cyclotourist 14 (14-34 9spd)
Chain: SRAM PC-99 Hollow Pin w/Power Link Gold
Front Derailler: XT FD-M761
Rear Derailler: XT RD-M761 SGS
Anti Chain Suck Device: N-Gear Jump Stop
Shifters: Shimano Dura Ace SL-BS77 Barcons
Mounts: Pauls Components "Thumbies"
Headset: Chris King (in pewter)
Stem: 110/40* rise
Handlebar: BBB Multibar (essentially, butterfly bars)
Bar Wrap Tape: Brooks Leather bar wrap (Honey)
Bar End Plugs: Velox rubber (from Harris Cyclery)
Bell: Mirrycle XL
Mirror: Mirrycle Mtn Mirror (custom mounted to a Minoura SS band grip clamp)
Computer: Planet Bike Protege 5 (wired)
Saddle: Brooks B.67
Seat Post: Thomson Elite (27.2mm\330mm black anodized)
Seat Post Clamp: Salsa Lip Lock (30mm black)
Brakes: Avid Arch Rival (v-brake)
Levers: Avid Speed Dial Ti
Pads: Kool Stop Dual Compound MTB
Boosters: Salsa Arc de Tri-Oomph (silver front & rear)
Pump: Topeak Mountain Morph
Hubs Front: 36h XT HB-M760-S
Hubs Rear: 36h XT FH-M760-S
Rims: 26" x 36h Sun Rhyno Lite (silver - drilled for Schraeder valves)
Lacing: 3 over using DT Swiss Alpine III triple butted spokes
Nipples: brass
Rim Tape: Schwalbe
Tyres: Schwalbe Marathon Plus (26x1.75 w/Schwalbe tubes )
Rear: Tubus Logo
Front: Tubus Duo
Panniers: Arkel GT-18 (pair/black; custom made w/ additional side pockets each side)
Handlebar Bag: Arkel (large, black)
Trunk Bag: Arkel Tailrider (black)
Kickstand: ESGE two legged folding kickstand
Fenders: SKS silver (Actually, I happened upon an set of the original old style ESGE fenders.)
Lighting Rear: Cateye LD 1000 (10 LED)

On the "Wish List"...

Stem:
Install of a 2nd stem. Involves adding a Dimension stem riser, and the addition of a second stem where I will mount a short piece of handle bar tube where the new handlebar bag mounting location will be. This will allow the bag to be mounted lower, making for better control over steering, and some more handlebar real estate for mounting a headlight (or two).

GPS Unit mount: Will be making a mount to attach my Lowrance iFinder H2O GPS unit to.

Geez - I hope I didn't forget anything... :rolleyes:

Check my sig for my 62cm Sage Green one. :)

I am in the middle of building up my 62cm Utility Blue LHT, and I am also using a Sugino XD300. What bottom bracket spindle length did you use for your perfect chainline? Thanks.

Found the answer on the tread you started about your build, 113mm. That is good to know, I am building mine with a 113mm UN-73.