I went to the Toronto International Bike Show today with the idea of buying several items. I couldn't find the helmet I wanted and I thought the Pearl Izumi winter gloves were too expensive but I found a B-17 at what I thought was a good price.

The only thing is, the directions state that I need to apply 'Proofide' to the saddle before I ride to assure that the saddle conforms to my bottom.

I don't have any Proofide. Can I use anything else?

There are other treatments but I believe only Proofide won't void the warranty. I bought Proofide at Urbane Cyclist at Queen and John...actually on John half a block N of Queen.

They sell something called "Obenoff's" (maybe I'm misspelling it, but I'm in the ballpark) at www.rivbike.com

You can get Proofide at www.wallbike.com

use anything. i use nikwax, which is made for leather hiking boots.

Ok not sure if this will help: i have a can; and the ingredents read as follows:

Tallow, Cod Oil, Vegetable oil, Paraffin wax, Beeswax, citronella oil.

- what is tallow anyway? I had my LBS order it about $6

I used mink oil

Tallow is a kind of solid animal fat historically used to make candles.

www.wallbike.com you can buy proofide here... very cheap too.

Mike

The best tallow used to come from rendered bear fat. It was a universal rust preventive and ball-patch lubricant for colonial long rifles in America. It was also used in many other lubes until whaling caught on. The tallow in Proofide might come from sheep or cattle as they no longer have bears in most parts of Europe.

Tallow could go rancid. Use a beeswax polish, but whatever yo use make sure it won't soften the leather. Once it's soft, it's soft, and that ruins the life of the leather. That is what they are worried about. I use beeseal. Mink oil is designed to soften leather.

You can add some wax so that if it stretches out there won't be any water damage to the leather if the finish opens up. You don't want to break down the leather so it stretches. I hit mine with a hammer to impress my sitbone position. Went on a 1000mile trip with 4 miles of break in no problem.

Snowseal is fine too.

You can use your new saddle without treating it. I rode one of my saddles for a couple of years before applying my first treatment of Proofide.

+1

I've been using a light application of Sno-Seal on my Brooks saddles for years. Works like a charm.

I wouldn't worry about stretching the leather so as to harm it . . . that's what the bolt up front is for (it shouldn't be allowed to become a sling); the softer the leather is, the more easily it will conform to the ischial tuberosities. To me,it is like working a mit. After years of tightening the bolt, my old Lycette finally tore at a brad in the back, but that was after about 15 years, and Lycette saddles were made of thinner leather than a current Brooks B17. I looked for one months back, before buying a pre-conditioned Brooks, only to learn that Brooks bought Lycette, I guess around the 60s.

This is a top secret trick that you shouldn't let get out:

Go down to a good local shoe shop and buy a bottle of Snow Country Wax Oil (Bee Natural Leathercare, P.O. Box 820803, Vancouver, WA 98682-0018) and apply it to the saddle top and bottom with a brush after warming it and the saddle to about 80 degrees.

Leave it on for a day and then wipe it clean with a soft towel.

Of course if it voids the warranty you might not want to do this. And of course any Brookes will last far longer than the warranty no matter what you do to the leather.

You only need to treat the saddle with this stuff every couple of years or so. Maybe once and nevermore if you do a partcularly good job.

When i recently purchased a Brooks B17 saddle, brand new from factory through wallbike, it included a handout that gave very specific directions.

It said that you are supposed to use proofide... it mentions that you can use some other wax based things, but proofide is the best, and must be used to keep the Brooks Warranty... it says you must apply the proofide before the first use. If you do not have fenders you are supposed to proofide under the seat also. you are supposed to contine to proofide the top side of the saddle 3 or 4 times a year for the life of the saddle. It also mentions that "apllying proofide more often during the break in period would be beneficial" It mentions in the handout that numerous people in books, and on the web have mentioned treating it with other chemicals, or even hitting it with a hammer to try to make the breaking in period happen faster. The handout specificly states that this is not the right thing to do because it voids the warranty, and the saddle will not last as long as it's supposed to after the leather has been "stressed" in this way.

This is information right from the origional factory packaging of the saddle.

If you purchased a ferrari, and the dealership told you that you had to use a particular oil, and it just so happens that the recomended oil is cheaper than most anyway, would you argue?


Mike

I've had a number of Brooks saddles, and I typically don't use any Proofide until I've ridden it a while. I've always seen the effect to be subtle, certainly more aesthetic than functional. I really think if the saddle doesn't start to work for you pretty soon, it isn't going to, regardless how much goop of one sort or other you use. It's by far more important to experiment with positioning adjustments than to put on Proofide. If the position isn't going to work, you have a closer to mint saddle to sell on Ebay, than if you gave it a full treatment before even trying it out.

Similarly, don't go for the adjuster nut. It might not ever need to be tightened, and it can definitely overstress the leather.

Ride it and adjust it, and if it doesn't work for you with good positioning, sell it.

Ken

Sno-Seal is great stuff. It's mostly beeswax. It does not soften or condition leather. Don't condition a new Brooks or any heavy gage leather product that must retain it's firmness to work properly. Sno-Seal is a waterproofer and it really works but you have to repeatedly apply it to hot leather for best results. I do it as soon as I get a new pair of work boots and I have done it two pair of Old School mountaineering boots, back when they were leather. Recently, to a Brooks saddle. That saddle is completely water proof.

Cyclintom has a secret that I also know about: Snow Country Wax Oil. It is 'oilier' than Sno-Seal. I just cooked my new B-67 in it. I've used it on primitive leather hunting gear - the kind Daniel Boone wore. Good stuff, too.

About the warranty: After getting up close and personal with Brooks saddles now, I'm not going to worry about it. They are so well built and so basic, it's hard to see a problem a year from now that you can't spot right away. It's leather and steel. As long as you don't over soften the hide, you should never get a tear or a sag at the rivets.

Just between us - if a Ferrari cost 1 1/2 day's pay for a manual laborer he might not be especially interested in the warranty period.

this is true....