Brooks Saddle for women?
09-27-06 | 05:13 PM
#26
sport fanatic
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: Dublin, Ireland
Bikes: Trek 4300, Surly Cross Check
Originally Posted by Polaris43
2. Is it true that if you get your Brooks wet, it's dead? I don't plan on getting it wet but what do you do about the unanticipated rain shower or accidental spillage from the water bottle?
'nough said!
09-27-06 | 06:01 PM
#27
Car-Free Flatlander
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,976
Likes: 0
From: Below 14th Street
Bikes: Sirrus
Brooks Finesse. It's shorter and a bit wider than the men's saddles and the leather is thicker than the B-17 - essentially a ti-railed version of the Professional S.
I've gotten it wet a few times and just used Proof Hide on it the following day. Lately I've taken to carrying a plastic bag in my seat bag for unexpected changes in weather.
I've gotten it wet a few times and just used Proof Hide on it the following day. Lately I've taken to carrying a plastic bag in my seat bag for unexpected changes in weather.
09-28-06 | 09:01 AM
#29
Mad bike riding scientist
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 29,127
Likes: 6,161
From: Denver, CO
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Originally Posted by garagegirl
So far this thread has made me more confused than not. Now I'm torn between the b17, b17s, team pro s, and regular pro. Too many choices!
Now's the time to jump in rather than stand on the side of the pool judging the temperature with your toe.
__________________
Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Dreamin' of Bemidji Down the Mississippi (in part)
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
09-28-06 | 12:25 PM
#30
Perfect reason to get one from Wall Bike since they have the great return policy.
Originally Posted by garagegirl
So far this thread has made me more confused than not. Now I'm torn between the b17, b17s, team pro s, and regular pro. Too many choices!
09-28-06 | 12:50 PM
#31
loves rail-trails
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: Western PA
Bikes: 2009 Kona Sutra, 2010 Kona Dew Plus, 2008 Raleigh Companion Tandem
I put a B-17 standard on my Marin Sausalito hybrid at the beginning of the season (1500 miles ago) and I absolutely love it. It has broken in beautifully and couldn't imagine a better saddle.
I recently converted a mid-90's Gary Fisher Marlin mountain bike to a tourer, and chose a B-17S (women's model). It feels great, and I think the extra width is a good thing for my sitbones. I don't think the shorter length will make a difference for me. I'm looking forward to many happy miles on it!
I recently converted a mid-90's Gary Fisher Marlin mountain bike to a tourer, and chose a B-17S (women's model). It feels great, and I think the extra width is a good thing for my sitbones. I don't think the shorter length will make a difference for me. I'm looking forward to many happy miles on it!
09-30-06 | 03:43 PM
#32
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
Yay! I just got a new Brooks Team Pro S on Ebay for $53!
https://cgi.ebay.com/Brooks-Team-Pro-...QQcmdZViewItem
I can't wait to try it out! At this price if it doesn't work out I can just sell it again. Thanks for your help everyone!
https://cgi.ebay.com/Brooks-Team-Pro-...QQcmdZViewItem
I can't wait to try it out! At this price if it doesn't work out I can just sell it again. Thanks for your help everyone!
09-30-06 | 04:09 PM
#33
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,053
Likes: 827
From: Fife Scotland
Bikes: Airnimal Chameleon; Ellis Briggs; Moulton TSR27 Moulton Esprit
Originally Posted by Peterpan1
"Really? Do tell."
I used to do a fair bit of leather work. There could be a couple of things that make the saddle uncomfortable, but if it related to "breaking in", then the problem is that your bony bits are resting on the hard leather dome of the saddle, and it has not as yet confromed to them. When it comes to softening up molded leather it just takes a certain amount of force, it's going to take a long time if your weight or the pressure your rump applies, is simply insuficient. If you could locate the area where you bones contact the seat, try carbon paper, then all you have to do is give those locations, spots about the size of a golf ball, a little tap with a rounded mallet or hammer, and they will easily punch down. What you want in the end is soft little craters in a surounding field of hard upward curved leather. The seat does not care how the upset occurs as long as it is accurately performed.
Right now I imagine you could sit on your hands without undue pain. How gently would you like me to hit your hands with a hammer? When it comes to softening up the leather there are much more efficeint ways that using you sit bones, on the other hand you do have to tap the seat in the right place. Softening the whole seat top is not what you want.
Any preparation that sotens the seat will destroy the reast of the saddle that is holding up around the craters, and ruin your comfort. So don't use oils etc... Wax is a good preservative and water proofing (though I still use a cover whenver it is wet).
I used to do a fair bit of leather work. There could be a couple of things that make the saddle uncomfortable, but if it related to "breaking in", then the problem is that your bony bits are resting on the hard leather dome of the saddle, and it has not as yet confromed to them. When it comes to softening up molded leather it just takes a certain amount of force, it's going to take a long time if your weight or the pressure your rump applies, is simply insuficient. If you could locate the area where you bones contact the seat, try carbon paper, then all you have to do is give those locations, spots about the size of a golf ball, a little tap with a rounded mallet or hammer, and they will easily punch down. What you want in the end is soft little craters in a surounding field of hard upward curved leather. The seat does not care how the upset occurs as long as it is accurately performed.
Right now I imagine you could sit on your hands without undue pain. How gently would you like me to hit your hands with a hammer? When it comes to softening up the leather there are much more efficeint ways that using you sit bones, on the other hand you do have to tap the seat in the right place. Softening the whole seat top is not what you want.
Any preparation that sotens the seat will destroy the reast of the saddle that is holding up around the craters, and ruin your comfort. So don't use oils etc... Wax is a good preservative and water proofing (though I still use a cover whenver it is wet).
I've never understood why people should choose to try to create indentations in hard leather using their rear-end. Makes no sense to me.
