sfsheryl

I have a Specialized Sequoia Elite 2005. I am planning a cross country trip this summer. Currently, I plan to carry my gear in a Burley Nomad trailer. I love riding this bicycle but I have some concerns about whether it is the right bike for a long distance camping tour.

I have three questions. First, does anyone have any recommendations for modifications/upgrades I should make to help get this bike ready for long distance loaded touring? Second, does anyone think that even with some modifications the Sequoia is not the right bike or a long distance camping tour? Third, has anyone actually used the Sequoia for long distance loaded touring and if so how was your experience?

Thanks for your thoughts.

cyccommute 

Let's start with the wheels. 20 and 24 spoke wheels probably aren't a good choice, even when pulling a trailer. A load...even a towed load...puts stress on the spokes. Go with at least a 32 spoke count wheel front and rear...36 would be better. New wider tires would be a good idea too Cost: $200+ for wheels, new tires $100.

Next the gearing. If you haven't noticed the western part of the US is kinda lumpy. The eastern part of the US is kinda lumpy. The middle part is nice and smooth. Your current gears would work well in the kinda smooth part. The lumpy bits are going to be very difficult. In other words, you need to change your gearing. You could replace the current chainrings with a 48/38/26 and replace the cassette with an 11-32 (or 34). You could change the crank also. Shimano makes a really nice trekking crank in LX or XT level that has the same set up as above but allows for a much lower low gear. You may or may not have to replace the rear derailer. I'd make the gearing changes and see if the old derailer works and then decide. Cost:

For chainrings route: $80 for rings, $40 to $50 for cassette, chain for $30. Total: $150+

For new crank route: $90 for crank, $50 for bottom bracket, $40 to $50 for cassette, $30 for chain. Total: $210+

If you need a new derailer, get an XT from JensonUSA for around $50.

Total cost for project: $550+ if you need a new derailer.


$550 is a lot to put into a marginal touring bike. The issues that I see are the carbon fork...not my first choice for a long tour. It looks like the bike has a carbon subassembly in the rear triangle, too. If it does, carbon doesn't usually handle the torsional forces that a trailer can put into it. That great ride it gives might not do well with a trailer trying to push you off a corner. The brakes would probably be okay but you might be limited in terms of tire width. Wider tires give a nicer ride and, when doing long distance riding, you'll want all the comfort you can get.

Would I do it? No. But I've ridden purpose built touring bikes for years. I've ridden marginal touring bikes and learned from the experience.

Could you do it? Probably. You might even enjoy it. But even a low end purpose built touring bike, like a Fuji Touring or a Jamis Aurora or the new LHT Complete, would be a better touring bike.

GeoKrpan

I have the same bike. If I had a choice, I wouldn't use it for touring. The wheels are too weak and the gearing is too high.
I've run 32c tires on it but they barely fit. If the tire develops any imperfections, as mine did, it will rub on the fork crown.
Here's an idea. 650B wheels with fat tires. You'd have to buy long reach brake calipers too. I looked at my bike and although they're supposed to be long reach, I don't think the arms are long enough. People are doing this kind of conversion and it works. Get 36 spokes. Fat tires do far more for the ride quality than all that carbon/Zertz stuff.
Ideally you would change the crank to a MTB sized crank, 44/32/22. Also, to a MTB cassette, 11-32, and a MTB rear derailleur. Unless you got an expensive two piece crank you'd have to buy a bottom bracket as well. You don't have to buy top of the line. The modest Deore stuff is really good. The MTB crank will work OK with the existing road front derailleur. MTB front derailleurs don't index properly with STI road shifters.
I wouldn't use a two wheeled trailer. There is just too many roads where there is no shoulder and you would be sticking out in traffic farther than if you had a one wheel trailer.
Check out the Extrawheel. https://www.extrawheel.com/index_en.php
It is far lighter than a BOB and will roll with less resistance due to the large wheel.
There is a really impressive video on the site of a guy riding some fairly technical singletrack with an Extrawheel.
I've toured with someone riding a pure road bike and pulling a BOB. It worked OK.

john bono

Actually, I'm looking at a similar situation. I'm looking to do a four to five hundred mile tour this year with an '06 Sequoia Elite. I've talked to Specialized, and they say it will handle a trailer OK. I've ridden with panniers grocery shopping, and have decided to go with a trailer for this trip. My first pref. is the Extrawheel, followed by the BOB or something similar. I dumped the oem Alex wheels for a set of 36 spoke Velocity Deep Vs. My main concern is the tires. The 25mm stock tires just won't cut it for a tour, not for comfort reasons but for reliability reasons.

GeoKrpan, you say you use 32s on the sequoia. I've noticed that the Sequoia has pretty close tolerances when it comes to the wheels/tires. Which brand tires are you using now?

NeezyDeezy

I too have the exact same bike, and I agree with everything GeoKrpan said. There seems to be a lot of these sequioa elites floating around, they are very versatile, but not for loaded touring.

Also, even though it's been a great bike, I am thinking about selling it and buying a sherpa or LHT because I need something more sturdy to hold up to daily commutes and touring.

GeoKrpan

I was using Michelin Dynamic 32c tires. These are inexpensive tires. I currently have the same tire in a 25c size.
As I said you could go the 650B route if you want to use fat tires.
Panaracer makes a 40mm 650B tire.
I saw this on the Harris Cyclery 650B tire page.
https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tires/584.html
I'm into fat tires for touring.
Thanks for that info about Specialized saying that pulling a trailer is OK with the Sequoia with carbon stays.

sfsheryl

Thanks folks. These were really helpful comments. I am leaning towards selling it and getting a Trek 520. I really appreciate you all taking the time to respond.

karmantra

Take a look at the REI Novara Randonee--cheaper price ($949, soon to be $760 with the upcoming dividend sale) and better gearing set up for loaded touring--save over $450 at sale price!

jcm

I have a 2006 Elite and a 1998 Trek 520. There is no comparison between the two for long trips. Although I very much enjoy the Sequoia because it's fast, fun and light, the 520 has it all over it for strength. To me, that's what should be the determining factor when you're out there. The advice about wheels is good.

Comfort is relatively the same to me, one being aluminum/CF and the other high quality steel. Both ride extremely well and are built with long rides in mind. In other words, the Sequoia borrows heavily from the classic tour bike geometry with regards to how the rider feels on the bike, except they are like sports sedans, not pickups with campers on them. Sequoias are not competition type road bikes - they're built for advanced recreational riders who nevertheless want decent performance. They are also very popular among older riders who are feeling the pangs of arthritis and other wear-and-tear issues.

On Trek 520's:
There are several decent tour bikes out there that will give as good a loaded performance as the 520, and for less money. I cite Aurora, Novara, etc. You will pay alot for the fact that the Trek is made from True Temper OX2 tubes that are made in the USA (equal to reynolds 853) and hand assembled here as well. For many, that's important. Now, I got mine on the local CraigsList for $550 in mint condition with all the goodies - and I do mean ALL. I got lucky. It's a great bike. If I were to actually use it for a fully loaded tour, I would change the gearing like everybody seems to suggest. But, as I don't tour, I have left it alone because I like a fast bike, and the stock 520's are fast. They make a tremendous all-purpose bike. But, that price of $1200 for a bare bike really is a sticking point to me. I would think that you could talk them down quite a bit, tho, with the competition the way it is...

cyccommute 

The Rocky Mountain Sherpas are also worth a look. If you are looking at 520s, look for a Cannondale T800 too. Bit better gearing but they are a little stiffer.

sfsheryl

Thanks guys. I will check out those other bikes. And the REI Novara is a terrific idea. I believe that the REI 20% off member sale is usually in early March. And if I can swing it financially I am going to try and keep my Specialized bike. I have loved it for weekend rides.

karmantra

sfsheryl: Called REI today (Sunday, 2-25), and they said the dividend sale starts tomorrow (Monday, 2-26). At $760 for a Randonneur, you can keep your Sequoia!

jcm

I'm sure cyccommute would agree that the C'dale T800 is a very good aluminum bike. Stiff when unloaded but nice and supple with all the gear. I've encountered several of them and everyone seemed to like them just fine.

trace22clawson

Not alot of love for the rocky mountain sherpa out there?... just kiddin'! I've really fallen in love with touring bikes. They just seem to be good all-purpose bicycles. I've tried all the bicycles listed above. My favorite was the Rocky Mountain Sherpa 30. I liked the trek 520... just didn't care for the bar end shifters (just a personal preference.) The trek 520 and the Sherpa were the most expensive bikes... so if budget is a huge factor in your decision making you'll probably give more consideration to the Jamis Aurora, Fuji Touring, or the Novara Randonee (if you can get it at the 20% off price.) I didn't let the $300-$500 price difference affect my decision... it's like one car payment, right? I figured this is the bike I'm going to ride at least 5 days a week for the next 20+ years... I better be happy with it. And yes, their are alot of guys working at LBS's that are still riding there 20+ year old steel touring bikes everyday as a commuter.

When I was out looking for a touring bike, they weren't easy to come by. Shops don't carry a huge selection (at most 1-2 manufacturers, and at most 2 sizes of that bike) so it can be tough to find one to ride that is your fit. I had the most luck finding a Jamis Aurora to ride. Then a trek 520 (30 miles away) and the REI stores had a few '07 randonee's in, but they had not been built up yet so I couldn't ride them. I rode the cannondale T800 (600 miles away) but selected REI stores carry the cannondale but none in stock when I went to look.

I already tried the "converting a road bike to a commuter/tourer" thing. It wasn't worth it. Tire issues... 23mm max if you wanted fenders. No racks on the front... because of the carbon fork. Not enough braze-ons for racks and fenders. Chain stays were to short... feet kept hitting the panniers on the back. The ride is fast, but over a long haul... it would be pretty harsh. If touring or commuting is something you plan on doing regularly, I think I would make the effort to get a touring bike rather than go through the conversion. I sold my road bike, and bought the touring cycle. No regrets!

jcm

You know, this type of discussion often leads to talk of converting this and that to morph something into a more usable form - within a budget. I don't mean to hi-jack, but have you simply considered a old MTB to convert. It's pretty cheap and they're tough as tanks. Get a good one and don't even think about the wheels beyond a tune-up. Skinnier tires are cheap enough and you already get the tractor gears. Seems like most of the late 80'and early 90's stuff had good quality Sakae or Shimano 48/48/28 cranksets. The RD's were often the excellent and reliable Deore series. The frames had as many attachment points as a tour bike, too. Some, like my old Trek 830, had more than my 520. The only drawback, if it matters to you, would be that they tend to have a slightly higher center of gravity. Just load low.

john bono

Speak of the devil, and....

Anyway, I've been flipping between using the Sequoia and a old style GT Timberline MTB for the tour. The bike would handle the trip better, but I would also have change the handlebars and shifters in order to make it more tour friendly.

The Sequoia is lighter, and geared a little high, but I've already upgraded the wheels(36 spoke Velocity Deep Vs), it's nice and fast, rides comfortably enough for me, and I've ridden loaded doing grocery shopping with the thing, and I actually prefer climbing loaded than not(I know, that sounds wrong, but I do). However, it doesn't really accommodate wide tires, and I know I'll need a bike that can handle suboptimal road conditions, which is tough to do with sub 32mm tires.

The Timberline, on the other hand, would handle 1.5s or better, would be geared very low for hills. On the other hand, the top end gearing is a bit too low for my tastes. I also don't like the idea of turning a good MTB bike into a tourer. I think I'm running into the N+1 theorem. Have N bikes, now need N+1.

jcm

Those GT's were pretty stiff because of that cool looking truss bridge seatstay design. Might be a bit harsh for the long haul. Try one of these for your N+1: A '92 Trek 930. This bike is a little stiffer than my broken 830 due to the thicker tubes and especially the heavier fork tines. They have much less taper and are almost straight. A good century bike nonetheless.
https://i15.tinypic.com/2lktah0.jpg

radpucker

I am a almost fifty biker who bought a Sequoia elite back in 2005 (I think) I really like the comfort and feel of this bike but don't really care for the looks of the sloping top tube. It is very comfortable ride though and that is good for my weary bones! I thought it was neat that it had the extra brake levers on the upper part of the bars but I don't really use them that much. I do love the shifters built into the brake levers though! I can't believe I waited this long to get them! This bike replaces an older Sequoia I had from 86 that I liked but it had a frame that was too big for me. I also had a couple of Treks to here and there in my days too.

As for whether or not your Sequoia would stand up to a Cross country bike trip I feel it would! It seems pretty durable seeing I am a 215 lb rider and it holds up to my weight!
Consider that I rode cross country in 1978 from Mass to LA California and also in 77 from Mass to Minnesota via Montreal on a 1977 Motobecane Grand Jubilee which had only double crank with 10 speeds and a 14-32 cluster. Of course I weighed about 170 back then and was only 20 and had no problems but a few flat tires and broken spokes but it held up fine!
I still have the old Motobecane but it is neglected and needs attention but I just can't bear to throw it out!
I like my new Sequoia but it will never have that special feeling I had way back when I bought that Grand Jubilee! It was one sweet bike and I loved it!

It brings back great memories of my cross country ride back in 78! (Started out with 4 of us and ended with 5)
Our route was Agawam Ma where we started then CT,NY,PA,Delaware, Maryland, DC then VA, KY,IL,Missouri,Kansas, Oklahoma, New Mexico, Arizona and then to LA Califorinia! Not the conventional route but we started the ride on August 31st and ended in November so we needed a southern route. We made up the route as we went along! It was quite the adventure and we ended up staying with lots of people we met along the way from town to town.

Have fun and don't be afraid to mooch a stay with some local folks you meet as you ride your way cross country! We met many nice people that way!

Good luck with your ride!
Rad from Massachusetts!