Spare spokes
#1
Thread Starter
deep stuff
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Nampa, ID
Bikes: Road, Touring, Mountain Bike
Spare spokes
Hey all
Been on a few multi day trips the last couple of years, nothing too long. Now I'm getting set for a week or so over into Eastern Oregon (John Day, Burns, etc.)
I haven't worried about carrying a spare spoke yet but then decided perhaps I should. Yesterday while working on my road wheels (pinch flat at 48 mph, ouch) it dawned on me that if I break a spoke, it will probably be on the drive side of the rear wheel. If that is the case, then I would need to carry a cassette nut tool & wrench to fit I guess plus a chain whip?
Thoughts or experiences with this?
Thanks!
Been on a few multi day trips the last couple of years, nothing too long. Now I'm getting set for a week or so over into Eastern Oregon (John Day, Burns, etc.)
I haven't worried about carrying a spare spoke yet but then decided perhaps I should. Yesterday while working on my road wheels (pinch flat at 48 mph, ouch) it dawned on me that if I break a spoke, it will probably be on the drive side of the rear wheel. If that is the case, then I would need to carry a cassette nut tool & wrench to fit I guess plus a chain whip?
Thoughts or experiences with this?
Thanks!
#2
FiberFix Repair Spokes are your answer. Otherwise carry normal spokes and the new Stein Hypercracker.
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Ron - Tucson, AZ
Ron - Tucson, AZ
#4
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Toronto/Montréal
Bikes: Eight homemade, three very dusty
You can carry a few spare spokes taped/ziptied along tubes or inside the seatpost. Or if you really want you can braze some spoke holder on the non-drive chainstay 
It's good to carry some, especially if you carry large loads on bumpy terrain with low spoke count (less than 32; however you can get away with a deep section rim). It's better to have some and not using them than the contrary. Make sure you know how to true a wheel.
For the drive side use the fiberfix or the hypercracker (nice tool btw, anybody used it?)
edit: do you guys think the fiberfix works as well as a steel spoke under torque loads? I guess yes when properly tensioned...

It's good to carry some, especially if you carry large loads on bumpy terrain with low spoke count (less than 32; however you can get away with a deep section rim). It's better to have some and not using them than the contrary. Make sure you know how to true a wheel.
For the drive side use the fiberfix or the hypercracker (nice tool btw, anybody used it?)
edit: do you guys think the fiberfix works as well as a steel spoke under torque loads? I guess yes when properly tensioned...
Last edited by tuz; 07-03-07 at 10:03 AM.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
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Bikes: Rivendell Quickbeam, Rivendell Rambouillet, Rivendell Atlantis, Circle A town bike, De Rosa Neo Primato, Cervelo RS, Specialized Diverge
Originally Posted by becnal
With an emergency spoke, you don't need to get the cassette off.
#8
phredite
Joined: Jan 2007
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Bikes: Salsa Casseroll, Surly Long Haul Trucker, Soma Groove
Another option is to carry straight gauge spokes longer than you need. When you need to replace a spoke, take out your multi-tool (you do have one, don't you?) finesse the old spoke out, cut the replacement spoke down to size leaving just enough to put a 'z' bend at the end. Replace the old spoke with your new custom cut spoke and ride on. I used this method both on my own bike, and helping others out. I know from experience that the replacement spokes on my wheel (both drive, and non drive side) lasted for years through loaded touring, commuting, and just plain riding.
Long story short, the spoked wheel is a rather strong device. As long as you have something to take the load, you'll probably be fine.
Another upside to this approach is not having to carry spokes sized to your drive, non drive, and front wheel spoke size. And while you probably won't tie anything off with the extra, you could use the spoke to cook a hot dog if the need arises.
Have a great time on your tour!
Long story short, the spoked wheel is a rather strong device. As long as you have something to take the load, you'll probably be fine.
Another upside to this approach is not having to carry spokes sized to your drive, non drive, and front wheel spoke size. And while you probably won't tie anything off with the extra, you could use the spoke to cook a hot dog if the need arises.

Have a great time on your tour!
#9
Punk Rock Lives

Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Throughout the west in a van, on my bike, and in the forest
Bikes: Long Haul Trucker with BRIFTERS!
Originally Posted by brucewiley
Hey all
Been on a few multi day trips the last couple of years, nothing too long. Now I'm getting set for a week or so over into Eastern Oregon (John Day, Burns, etc.)
I haven't worried about carrying a spare spoke yet but then decided perhaps I should. Yesterday while working on my road wheels (pinch flat at 48 mph, ouch) it dawned on me that if I break a spoke, it will probably be on the drive side of the rear wheel. If that is the case, then I would need to carry a cassette nut tool & wrench to fit I guess plus a chain whip?
Thoughts or experiences with this?
Thanks!
Been on a few multi day trips the last couple of years, nothing too long. Now I'm getting set for a week or so over into Eastern Oregon (John Day, Burns, etc.)
I haven't worried about carrying a spare spoke yet but then decided perhaps I should. Yesterday while working on my road wheels (pinch flat at 48 mph, ouch) it dawned on me that if I break a spoke, it will probably be on the drive side of the rear wheel. If that is the case, then I would need to carry a cassette nut tool & wrench to fit I guess plus a chain whip?
Thoughts or experiences with this?
Thanks!
roughstuff
#10
BE the Ferrari.
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: San Diego, CA
Bikes: Co-Motion Nor'wester Tour
FiberFix's are good. I've had to use them twice. They can get you through in a pinch, but they're not as easy to use or as durable as I expected. In both cases they were enough to get the wheel part of the way back, but some retentioning was necessary too. Note that both these times I was on a local day ride -- not loaded.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: okinawa japan
Bikes: giant great journey2
i just got back from a 420 mile tour of alaska. day 2 left me with a broke rear spoke on the non drive train side. i tried to get a spare spoke and tools nessecary for the repair the day i left fairbanks. the bike shop guy said i shouldnt worry about it cause it wasnt going to be possible to fix on the rode anyway without a truing tool, cassette remover, etc. needless to say i knew this wasnt the case but had no other options so i tempted fate...........so when on the SECOND day i discovered a broke spoke i was pretty angry and worried. i ran into this guy traveling from germany by bike and he gave me a spare spoke. it was a metal wire one but the rim side of it needed to be cut smaller to avoid popping my tube when installed. i took the spoke and pressed on figureing if the wheel started showing further signs of trouble i would flag down an RV or someone with the proper tool. well fortunatly the wheel held togther nicely. its a 36 spoke wheel and NONE of the other spokes loosened a bit. what a great wheel. if anyone cares its a ALEXRIMS ACE-18
#12
Thread Starter
deep stuff
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Nampa, ID
Bikes: Road, Touring, Mountain Bike
Thanks for all the great advice! I think I'll carry a fiberfix plus I really like the recommendation of carrying some too-long spokes to manufacture my own to fit. Just went out to my shop and found I had some about an inch longer (straight gauge) than I would need. Hmm, maybe I should try making one now for practice before I'm in dire need some day on the road side.
Of course I carry a complete Multi-tool! How else to open beer bottles (Fat Tire Ale) at the end of a long day's ride?
Of course I carry a complete Multi-tool! How else to open beer bottles (Fat Tire Ale) at the end of a long day's ride?
#13
Thread Starter
deep stuff
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 250
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From: Nampa, ID
Bikes: Road, Touring, Mountain Bike
Ok, just did the big test. I took a leatherman tool that has a vise grip type pliers on it (need to take that too), cut the nail head off the spoke with it, and easily made a nice "U" bend in the end that could be hooked on the hub. I can see making a semi U bend, hooking it on the hub and then closing it up with the pliers on the hub better once I'm sure the length is correct.
Leatherman cutter could also be used to clip the old spoke short to get it out of the hole.
Leatherman cutter could also be used to clip the old spoke short to get it out of the hole.
#16
Thread Starter
deep stuff
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 250
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From: Nampa, ID
Bikes: Road, Touring, Mountain Bike
Thanks fc for the link to the thread, I really do like the Z idea or hook method if I have to and find the spoke material more bendable than I had thought (without cracking or breaking).
Counting on making it to the next bike shop often isn't an option for me on my preferred remote rides. My next planned 400 mile ride in Eastern Oregon looks like there is one bike shop at the 240 mile mark so I prefer the more durable repair of a solid spoke although I will have a fiberfix also.
Hey, now they have me as a junior member. I haven't been called a junior for around 50 years now!
Counting on making it to the next bike shop often isn't an option for me on my preferred remote rides. My next planned 400 mile ride in Eastern Oregon looks like there is one bike shop at the 240 mile mark so I prefer the more durable repair of a solid spoke although I will have a fiberfix also.
Hey, now they have me as a junior member. I haven't been called a junior for around 50 years now!
#17
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Tulsa, OK
Bikes: Co-Motion Americano Pinion P18; Co-Motion Americano Rohloff; Thorn Nomad MkII, Robert Beckman Skakkit (FOR SALE), Santana Tandem, ICE Adventure FS
I just file the top half of the head off of a standard backup spoke and then slide it in to the hub hole. Basically, if the threaded end is at the twelve oclock position with the head on the right side forming an "L", you file the top 1/3 to 1/2 of the head off (leaving the bottom portion so it looks sort of like a "Z"), then it will work fine. Have used this technique for the past 25 years and it holds up fine. Best to replace when you can though.





