Rowan

There's nothing wrong with me. But you asked in your opening post for comments and a few questions about the bike and whether you should get a new one. Remember???? Did you ask those question just to elicit positive responses to validate what in fact could be an error of judgment? Or to get a serious assessment of the suitability of that bike for what you intend it for, taking into account your previous posts elsewhere?

If you don't like the answers some people give, then don't ask those sorts of questions, and don't give them a hard time for giving their opinion. Simple, really.

As to your most recent question... it's not up to me to assess the bike in detail -- that is impossible by photograph. You admit you don't know much about bicycle mechanics. TAKE IT TO A REPUTABLE BIKE SHOP and get them to check it over. You've already replaced the rear gearset and the seat. With the new gears, will the chain do its job without skipping under pressure uphill? Are the chainrings up to it? Do you know why I ask those two questions? Why is the stem wrapped in electrical insulation tape where it goes into the steerer tube/headset? Do the brakes operate as efficiently as they should and do you intend to use the suicide levers or get rid of them? Have you tried to source 28/32 - 630 (27 1/4 - FIFTY) tyres -- a legitimate tyre size but I think very difficult to source? Will another tyre size fit those rims? Do you know what tyre pressure to run, and do you have a pump to achieve that pressure and a way of measuring it? Do you know how to fix a puncture beside the road in the freezing rain in the middle of the night? Has the bottom bracket actually been serviced, or the outside just cleaned up for sale? Is there any play in the BB. What about the hubs? Do they spin freely and are the wheels straight, or do the hubs bind and/or the wheels touch the brake pads? Are you going to fit bartape or just complain about sore and numb hands? Does the bike actually fit you, or are you compensating in the zeal of your bargain purchase to make it fit for the 10 miles or so you've ridden it?

If you don't know, then TAKE IT TO A REPUTABLE BIKE SHOP and get them to give you the answers. You may find, eventually, that the cost to bring the bike up to a reasonable standard may well be as much as buying a new bike. Consider that the distance you have ridden it so far is nothing compared with trying to ride 130 miles in a day.

By the way, I am not a dude. So please desist from calling me such.

And you referenced my "Dream. Dare. Do" sig in the other forum with "What about..."

l3ica

Rowan, I think your concerns about his bike are legitimate and well intentioned, but I can see how he would be offended by your tact.
Had I just spent $150 on a bike and then tried to get advice on it and had someone told me to 'dump it', i would be a bit miffed.

OP- you are going to get a lot of conflicting advice on here. I would really suggest trying to find a casual riding group or some other people to talk to about your plans and get their recommendations. I would do this before taking it to a shop where they may very well try to take advantage of your lack of knowledge and offer inflated repairs (obviously there are plenty of honest shops, but there are also a lot of crap ones.)

Best of luck to you, cheers.

rock_ten

I hope that answered all the questions that needed answering.

I'm going to describe what my impression is of your stance towards my bike and planned ride. I get the feeling that you see me, as the inexperienced cyclist that I am, planning to do something that supposedly requires a whole lot of training and experience and that couldn't be acheived by someone "off the street", and consider me an undesirable part of the cycling community for that reason. Perhaps you think that if I manage it, the importance of a century ride would be diminished, which belittles the acheivments of all the cyclists who worked up to it as some kind of formidable event.
Similarly, with the bike, it seems that you consider me undeserving of it because I don't have a certain level of technical knowledge, and that new riders should submit to a bike shop and a new bike to have their needs provided for. Not even worthy of selling the bike on, I should just dump it and quietly crawl back home.

I'd hate to think that's the case, but wouldn't be entirely surprised as similar feelings arise commonly in any kind of hobby or sport.

l3ica - I'll contact the cycling club at my uni to see if anyone there wouldn't mind meeting up and giving me their opinion on it.

Nigeyy

Joe:

Chain skipping could still occur with a new chain and rear freewheel if the front chainrings are worn. A word of caution: the load put on a chain with a bike unloaded versus a bike loaded going up a hill is very different, you need to find that out before you go. Hopefully this isn't the case and probably why Rowan asked those two questions.

I still recommend you get decent levers with hoods (will give you another hand position that most people use the most), bar tape to cushion the handlebars a little and Koolstop pads to maximize the brakes. Cycling fully loaded or even with some extra weight will mean you should have the best brakes you can have. For the distance you are doing, I can't say enough to maximize your hand positions.

From the photos it looked like the tyres are new, but if they are old, they may be cracked or weak. Like brakes, this isn't something to mess around with. Finding replacement tyres in that size *might* be an issue, but obviously if you don't need them, you don't need them. Some people might also advise carrying a spare tyre with you (personally I'd only do it if I was in the middle of nowhere, and the midlands aren't in the middle of nowhere) though again if you do have a tyre failure, you might have a problem finding a replacement easily unlike a 26" or 700c size which can be had at any Halfords or bike shop I'm sure.

I also recommend you do start measuring tyre pressure rather than just by feel -under inflating will mean extra resistance (which will have a terrible cumulative effect over 150 miles), over inflating will mean you run the risk of a tyre blow out -not something you'd want when you're steaming down a hill.

While I agree to an extent with your comments about bike fit, I also believe there are points at which a cycle enthusiast or professional can tell you if the bike is the completely wrong fit.

And while I think it might be worthwhile to take your bike to a shop to get it checked out, I think much depends on your own mechanical aptitude -are you mechanically inclined? If you are not, take it to a good bike shop to have it checked out. If you are, get a book from a library or buy one on bike maintenance/mechanics and do the rudimentary safety checks yourself.

I think Rowan makes some excellent points and ones worth taking heed of -and in my opinion not because he resents your lack of technical expertise or experience -but because what you are trying to do is difficult, and it's very easy to make it much more difficult with a lack of knowledge or experience. I do think he was hasty in telling you to dump the bike (you really can't tell the true condition of the bike in the photos), but hey, this is a board, and sometimes you get the positive and negative. Personally, I'd be welcoming Rowan's comments as right away they've made you think about stuff, right?

I really hope you'll post a report of your ride -warts 'n all -and give a very earnest perspective of the process (you may need to swallow your pride, if so do it, and if you don't have to, fantastic!). It will make for great reading, regardless of whether you complete the 150 miles or not.

rock_ten

Yes I'll certainly write up what happened and post it here. When I finalise my plans I'll leave them on here as well so people can see my route and stuff.

I've been pretty ill recently, today I'm almost a bit better and will put my new saddle on and see how that is. Its raining atm.. I'll need to keep it covered.

--Joe

Nigeyy

The type of levers on your bike are the old style -it's hard to comfortably rest your thumb and fingers on them. Buying new levers is the best way to get "new" style hoods that allow your thumb and fingers to rest comfortably on either side (take a look at a newer road style bike and look at the levers, you'll see what I mean). This also means that usually the levers are installed higher up on the curve of the handlebar. Honestly, for comfort, I see this as something that will definitely be worth it on a long ride. You might also want to consider gel pads under the bar tape as well. If you are going to get new levers, don't wrap that tape until you get your new levers installed!!!

It sounds to me like you mechanically inclined -not many people would strip a wheel bearing. Good luck, and ride as much as you can!

rock_ten

Maybe I was just over-curious/stupid :/

I'll see what brake levers the shops sell, and think about putting them on. I'll go right now, in fact!

--Joe

Nigeyy

Just remember you don't need levers with gear shifters (aka brifters, STI, ergos) otherwise you'll have a shock when you find out the price! Just road bike brake levers...... Also, utilize want ads and ebay (over in the States craigslist.com is a godsend) -usually used quality components can be had for the price of new but considerably lesser quality component.

rock_ten

The bike turned out to be just fine - read about it here: https://www.bikeforums.net/long-distance-competition-ultracycling-randonneuring-endurance-cycling/372573-ride-report-132-miles-york-birmingham-20-12-07-a.html

Nigeyy

Hey, congratulations Joe! A real adventure. I enjoyed reading the ride report. So how did the bike turn out? Did you bother with new brake levers in the end? Anything you'd change equipment-wise? In retrospect, what do you think of the replies to you in this thread (mine included, did I help/hinder?) I'd love to read your thoughts on this.

Monoborracho

My main recommendation, since the wheels are older 27"ers, is to start with the wheels. Take the tires and rim tape off, inspect the wheels for any cracks at the spokes (use a magnifying glass), possibly replace spokes as needed, and have them trued and tensioned to put them in the best possible shape. Put new rim tape and tubes in place, tires if needed, and go with it as is for a while.

rock_ten

The bike was great, I had no trouble with it. All that I changed since I bought it was putting a new saddle on and a new block, the old one was pretty worn and the place I bought it from replaced it for me.

Erm, I'll have a look back through the replies, I don't remember what was said now.


I've noticed that my back wheel is slightly bent so I need to sort that out. I've tried tightening spokes to true a wheel before and I ended up wrecking it. In the end I hit the wheel against a wall over and over until it was roughly straight. I might have to get some help with it.

staehpj1

I didn't follow this thread and only read it and the one on the LD group after they had played out.

I have to say that I wonder if rock_ten isn't putting us on. Either way thanks for an interesting read.