Converting my road bike
#1
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Converting my road bike
I'm not sure if this is the right forum to post my question on but it seems like it's the best fit, if not let me know and I will re-post.
I have a mid-90's Giant Cadex CFR-3 road bike that I want to use as a commuter/trail bike. The main triangle is cf, the fork, seat and chain stays are alumunim. It has Shimanon 600 (ultegra) components, including hubs, STI shifters/brakes, double chainring (53/42), wobler rims, 700x23 tires, Sakae Modolo Anatomic handlebar/Nitto stem.
I rode this bike exclusively up until 2 years ago when I bought a Scott CR1 Pro. Ever since then I've used the Giant on my trainer. I cleaned it up today and it is in surprisingly great shape. My husband and I are going to ride on Katy trail next month and I'm wanting to use this bike. I also want to be able to use it as my commuter too.
I need advice on:
1) The biggest issue is probably tires. I think the biggest tire I will be able to fit is a 700x28. Any recommendations? Although I need something that will work for the crushed limestone katy trail I need it to be good/fast enough for the road for commuting.
2) It's pretty heavy (I was surprised by the weight, guess I've gotten spoiled with my scott) and if there is anything I could do that wasn't too costly I'd like to. The weight won't be an issue on trails but it will be with commuting.
3) Is it possible to change the handlebar to a mustache or bull horn with the STI shifters/brakes?
4) I'll need a saddle and will get a new seat post, switch out the clipless pedals for something with toe clips. Any suggestions?
I think that's it... I would appreciate your advice and ideas. Over the last few weeks or so I have spent lots of hours reading the forums (just ask my husband) and other sites related to biking and have learned a lot, but not nearly enough so any suggestions would be appreciated.
I have a mid-90's Giant Cadex CFR-3 road bike that I want to use as a commuter/trail bike. The main triangle is cf, the fork, seat and chain stays are alumunim. It has Shimanon 600 (ultegra) components, including hubs, STI shifters/brakes, double chainring (53/42), wobler rims, 700x23 tires, Sakae Modolo Anatomic handlebar/Nitto stem.
I rode this bike exclusively up until 2 years ago when I bought a Scott CR1 Pro. Ever since then I've used the Giant on my trainer. I cleaned it up today and it is in surprisingly great shape. My husband and I are going to ride on Katy trail next month and I'm wanting to use this bike. I also want to be able to use it as my commuter too.
I need advice on:
1) The biggest issue is probably tires. I think the biggest tire I will be able to fit is a 700x28. Any recommendations? Although I need something that will work for the crushed limestone katy trail I need it to be good/fast enough for the road for commuting.
2) It's pretty heavy (I was surprised by the weight, guess I've gotten spoiled with my scott) and if there is anything I could do that wasn't too costly I'd like to. The weight won't be an issue on trails but it will be with commuting.
3) Is it possible to change the handlebar to a mustache or bull horn with the STI shifters/brakes?
4) I'll need a saddle and will get a new seat post, switch out the clipless pedals for something with toe clips. Any suggestions?
I think that's it... I would appreciate your advice and ideas. Over the last few weeks or so I have spent lots of hours reading the forums (just ask my husband) and other sites related to biking and have learned a lot, but not nearly enough so any suggestions would be appreciated.
#2
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It sounds like you will be using this bicycle for commuting.
If you were asking about touring, I would recommend 28 Gatorskins or Highway Contact tires, don't worry about weight when your total kit with you included will be close to 200 lbs, keep the handlebars you have now, and keep the clipless unless you plan on stopping to hike during your trip.
If you are asking about commuting, I would say mostly the same. The pedals depend on what you are commuting for. Do you need to change into work shoes anyways? And I would still say that the weight is mostly psychological, a few pounds of bicycle weight is still negligible when compared to the total weight of everything, wind resistance is the more important factor anyways, and your bicycle already sounds plenty light to me.
If you were asking about touring, I would recommend 28 Gatorskins or Highway Contact tires, don't worry about weight when your total kit with you included will be close to 200 lbs, keep the handlebars you have now, and keep the clipless unless you plan on stopping to hike during your trip.
If you are asking about commuting, I would say mostly the same. The pedals depend on what you are commuting for. Do you need to change into work shoes anyways? And I would still say that the weight is mostly psychological, a few pounds of bicycle weight is still negligible when compared to the total weight of everything, wind resistance is the more important factor anyways, and your bicycle already sounds plenty light to me.
Last edited by Dan The Man; 10-10-08 at 11:42 AM.
#3
Senior Member
If it was me...
I would leave it pretty much as is except for adding some 28mm tires. I too like the gatorskins. They work OK on the crushed limestone rail trail here.
I assume it has dropped bars; I would keep them.
Why a new saddle? Is something wrong with it? If it is just because it is a racing saddle I would consider keeping it.
I would never go back to clips and straps. If you really want to be able to ride in regular shoes for short distances I would go with a pedal with a cage on one side and spd on the other. When you want to go on a long or fast ride put on the bike shoes, for a short ride just get along without any retention system. That is what I do on my folding bike although I seldom ride it without the bike shoes.
I would leave it pretty much as is except for adding some 28mm tires. I too like the gatorskins. They work OK on the crushed limestone rail trail here.
I assume it has dropped bars; I would keep them.
Why a new saddle? Is something wrong with it? If it is just because it is a racing saddle I would consider keeping it.
I would never go back to clips and straps. If you really want to be able to ride in regular shoes for short distances I would go with a pedal with a cage on one side and spd on the other. When you want to go on a long or fast ride put on the bike shoes, for a short ride just get along without any retention system. That is what I do on my folding bike although I seldom ride it without the bike shoes.
#4
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Thanks for your responses. Gatorskins sound like a good way to go. After more research and talking to the lbs I will be keeping the h-bar but change out the stem. The saddle has to go just because it is uncomfortable.
The clipless pedal system I have now is Look and have the traditional road shoe which wouldn't work with commuting. I looked at Performance site and they have the Quattro pedal by Crank brothers on sale, do you know anything about them? It looks like they work like an spd pedal system in that the cleat is recessed so you can walk in the shoes or I may get the type suggested that have the platform type on one side and the spd in the other.
The clipless pedal system I have now is Look and have the traditional road shoe which wouldn't work with commuting. I looked at Performance site and they have the Quattro pedal by Crank brothers on sale, do you know anything about them? It looks like they work like an spd pedal system in that the cleat is recessed so you can walk in the shoes or I may get the type suggested that have the platform type on one side and the spd in the other.
#5
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There is a chance that a 28mm tire won't fit your frame at the bottom bracket. Frankly, there's not much you'll be able to reasonably do that will noticeably improve this bike for touring other than SPD pedals. For hauling stuff, you'll need a trailer, but your chain rings will prevent you from taking much with you. Commuting is another matter.
#6
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Alu rear triangle means you can add a rack if you want.
Be aware that some MTB pedals have no platform and can put a bit of pressure on the foot if your shoes aren't stiff soled. The double sided pedals are pretty good.
You can add a handle bar bag or a top tube bag to keep snacks etc in. You should have at least two bottle cages on the bike.
Is your gearing low enough? At least you will not be in the road shoes so you can walk it if the weight is too much on a steep hill.
Are the wheels up to carrying a load? Shouldn't be a prob if you are light yourself.
Be aware that some MTB pedals have no platform and can put a bit of pressure on the foot if your shoes aren't stiff soled. The double sided pedals are pretty good.
You can add a handle bar bag or a top tube bag to keep snacks etc in. You should have at least two bottle cages on the bike.
Is your gearing low enough? At least you will not be in the road shoes so you can walk it if the weight is too much on a steep hill.
Are the wheels up to carrying a load? Shouldn't be a prob if you are light yourself.
#7
Professional Fuss-Budget
My husband and I are going to ride on Katy trail next month and I'm wanting to use this bike. I also want to be able to use it as my commuter too.... It's pretty heavy (I was surprised by the weight, guess I've gotten spoiled with my scott) and if there is anything I could do that wasn't too costly I'd like to.
If you're carrying the bike up stairs, yes weight is important; no question.
As far as performance goes, though, an extra 5 pounds might slow you down by a whopping 0.1 mph. (Really.) Aerodynamics and rolling resistance will do more to speed you up than dropping weight. I.e. in that specific respect, it's not worth spending one penny to reduce your bike's weight -- especially as you are quite likely to carry several pounds of stuff (e.g. clothing, books, papers, laptop, purse/wallet) with you during your commute.
So, let's say you're taking the stairs. Unfortunately, there really isn't one single easily-replaceable component that will whack 5 pounds off the bike -- maybe the saddle if it's a heavy one. You're only going to get a marginal weight reduction with each part, so you'd basically have to swap everything out to get a cumulative improvement in weight.
Originally Posted by Szn54
4) I'll need a saddle and will get a new seat post, switch out the clipless pedals for something with toe clips. Any suggestions?
Other tips: Consider getting some "race blade" fenders. They'll help protect the carbon bits from gravel & rocks that get kicked up.
If you haven't planned to already, get a tune-up before you go.
And have fun.