Sweet!

That is correct. I was using the 5 gallon water as an example. I have gone to a store and picked up a 5 gallon water container and put it on my rack and rode home. Only about a 5 mile ride, but my point was the 5 gal was an extreme load that shifts around. Probably about the worst load I can think of. Was it stable? Not really, but doable for a short trip. Only did it twice. After that, I drove a car. Anyway, thanks for all this information. I am going to head down to the LBS tomorrow and discuss this as well as get a feel for how much components and such cost, incase I find a frame and fork.

You guys are the best. I am leaning towards a little different load configuration. Seems distribution is a big consideration. I weigh 190 lbs mysel and am 6'2". That is a load on a bike in itself. The lowest I could weigh is about 180. Still a lot of weight.

distribution and how well it's secured, you're not a big load for modern touring bikes . My partner in the shop was 6'4" and weighed about 185. His lightly built road wheels held up fine because he was a careful rider and didn't carry much on the few trips be took. The basic 32 spoke wheels on a CrossCheck would be sturdy enough for a light load and if you wanted to carry a big one there's wheels plenty strong to carry you and 40lbs more. Put 10 of 30lbs on the front wheel and ride on a plain 36 spoke wheel with heavy rim and you'd be fine.

Hmm. I wonder what you think about me considering I'm 5'11" and 240+ lbs. with 40+ pounds of gear/food/on-bike equipment(racks, lights, etc.) when riding with panniers. I use stock Bikes Direct Windsor Tourist machine-made wheels that have been retrued by a local LBS mech. The tires are the stock 700x28c rubbers.

;-)

A local mechanic explained once that most bikes are made with a 300 lb+ design load and that unless you go below 28 spoke wheels on a modern bike you have nothing to worry about. 32 or 36 is better so you don't have to true the wheel as often, especially if you go off hard surfaces. The real wear and tear for us big dudes is in the tires- the thinner it is, the more noticeable. It's about abrasion and lb per sq in at the tire contact point. So other than making sure you get tires as wide as you can fit under your fenders for durability, the rest is kinda' a matter of taste. As far as weight distribution, the weight of the rider is centered over the center of gravity in a properly designed bike and it won't matter much.

It's the weight as you get away from the CG that you want to watch out for and keep as low as practical. But in the real world, 40 lb is not really enough to hugely affect a 240 lb load of bike+rider unless the stuff shifts around or is improperly loaded left-right. The exception is mountain biking because of the weird forces and angles applied as you bump your way around. Those guys don't even bother with panniers and keep things in a tight pack on their back or on the frame. Think about it: a 20 lb backpack on the back of a rider has a bigger lever-arm than 40 lb behind and in front of you, yet they do fine.