Best Hubs For Touring?
#1
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Colorado-California-Florida-(hopefully soon): Panama
Bikes: Vintage GT Xizang (titanium mountain bike)
Best Hubs For Touring?
I'm reworking my GT Xizang, a vintage titanium front-suspension mountain bike, to use for short touring. I'm looking to build a pair of touring wheels, and wonder what you guys suggest for hubs.
I've been running Shimano XTR hubs front and rear, in 32-spoke Mavic 717 rims. But I recently got a Mavic 719 36-spoke rim for building up a new rear wheel. I still need to buy a rear hub. Is there something that would be more durable and reliable under a load?
I've been running Shimano XTR hubs front and rear, in 32-spoke Mavic 717 rims. But I recently got a Mavic 719 36-spoke rim for building up a new rear wheel. I still need to buy a rear hub. Is there something that would be more durable and reliable under a load?
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Colorado-California-Florida-(hopefully soon): Panama
Bikes: Vintage GT Xizang (titanium mountain bike)
My whole bike is currently using Shimano XTR components. I would like to go with as good as, if not better, for touring with loads. And for the rear, wouldn't 36 spokes be stronger under a load than 32?
I'm wondering if any of you have any real world suggestions for hubs for touring that would be stronger and more reliable than Shimano XTR.
I'm wondering if any of you have any real world suggestions for hubs for touring that would be stronger and more reliable than Shimano XTR.
#4
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: NE Tx
Bikes: Tour Easy, Linear USS, Lightening Thunderbolt, custom DF, Raleigh hybrid, Felt time trial
I don't know hardly anything technically speaking about bicycle components. When something needs replacing, my lbs understands to install the manufacturer's mid price part, figuring that way I get the most for my bucks. Has worked very well for 5 years and thousands of miles.
It seems that the lighter a part is the more it cost and the more fragile. A buddy ordered some high price hubs for a new LHT. Rear one failed after 300 miles and left him stranded in Big Sur. Go figure.
It seems that the lighter a part is the more it cost and the more fragile. A buddy ordered some high price hubs for a new LHT. Rear one failed after 300 miles and left him stranded in Big Sur. Go figure.
#5
Phil Wood. Hubs pretty much do not come any stronger or more reliable. But if you don't like the cost of admission, White Industries or Velocity make a good po' man's Phil.
#6
+1, but then again, your XTR or even XT will be more than adequate for anything you can throw at the wheel.
#7
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Seattle, Washington, USA
Bikes: 2009 Chris Boedeker custom; 2007 Bill Davidson custom; 2021 Bill Davidson custom gravel bike; 2022 Specialized Turbo Vado e-bike
I have XTR hubs on 1 bike and XT hubs on another.
I'll be truly surprised if I ever have significant problems with either set.
I've looked at Phil Woods hubs a couple of times, and haven't been able to justify the price premium.
I'll be truly surprised if I ever have significant problems with either set.
I've looked at Phil Woods hubs a couple of times, and haven't been able to justify the price premium.
#8
Like with so many thinks in bicycles, there's diminishing returns as one goes up in price. I think the sweet spot with road level hubs is 105, and with MTB stuff it is XT. You can pay more to get marginally better quality, aesthetics and lighter weight but you really can't wrong with these unless you are doing something really harsh. Phil Wood stuff is pretty and gives you great bling factor but it is totally overkill IMO. Nothing wrong with them, just that if money is plentiful enough to get those I'd invest it doing a custom wheel set with better rims using XT or 105 hubs instead and use the extra money to tour with. Of course, YMMV.
#9
aka Timi

Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Gothenburg, Sweden
Bikes: Bianchi Lupo & Bianchi Volpe Disc: touring. Bianchi Volpe: commuting
XT here as well... I go for Ultegra on my 130mm bike. Even if I had a gadzillion $$s I wouldn't go for anything better for my bikes/needs - loaded touring and commuting.
edit: though I guess if I had a gadzillion $$s I wouldn't even need my commuter bike
edit: though I guess if I had a gadzillion $$s I wouldn't even need my commuter bike
#10
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Joined: Feb 2001
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From: England
In the past XT was the best touring hub and XTR was nice if you could afford it BUT the design seems to have changed in recent years with thicker aluminium axles, smaller drive-side bearings and more than a few reports of thin-walled freehubs cracking.
Are the folks who advise an XT talking about their venerable old model or the new one?
I went bit downmarket for my hub, to LX. This used to be a solid MTB hub but now the name has been applied to a trekking hub with conventional steel axle and downgraded seals. It works well like all Shimano mid-market gear.
Shimano now dont make a quality hub which is ideal for touring.
Phil Woods is the best touring hub. It is more than just bling, it is very strong and durable and you can easily remove the freehub in the field for spoke repair.
I had to remove my Shimano cassette a few times using a Next Best Thing tool. Not as good as the Best Thing (A Pamir Hypercraker).
Are the folks who advise an XT talking about their venerable old model or the new one?
I went bit downmarket for my hub, to LX. This used to be a solid MTB hub but now the name has been applied to a trekking hub with conventional steel axle and downgraded seals. It works well like all Shimano mid-market gear.
Shimano now dont make a quality hub which is ideal for touring.
Phil Woods is the best touring hub. It is more than just bling, it is very strong and durable and you can easily remove the freehub in the field for spoke repair.
I had to remove my Shimano cassette a few times using a Next Best Thing tool. Not as good as the Best Thing (A Pamir Hypercraker).
#11
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: boston, ma
My whole bike is currently using Shimano XTR components. I would like to go with as good as, if not better, for touring with loads. And for the rear, wouldn't 36 spokes be stronger under a load than 32?
I'm wondering if any of you have any real world suggestions for hubs for touring that would be stronger and more reliable than Shimano XTR.
I'm wondering if any of you have any real world suggestions for hubs for touring that would be stronger and more reliable than Shimano XTR.
#12
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Posts: n/a
If you are capable of breaking ratchets then get the XT or XTR otherwise any cheap shimano hub will work I recommend getting a hub with the six bolt brake hub first choice or the spline brake hub second choice here is a photo https://share.ovi.com/media/currentre...resident.10049 the reason for this is the brake hubs move the cone farther out this places less stress on the axle it also reduces the play in the wheel. This wheel has 20000 miles touring on it. Use wheelsmith DH spokes. I'm mentioned here https://www.wheelfanatyk.blogspot.com/ for my mathmaticle analysis of spokes.
#13
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Joined: Sep 2008
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just a thought for the group, if you were stuck in the boonies and your bike was dunked in 2' of water and the hubs flooded as the bike is dragged through a muddy ditch which set of bearings will cause you less problems, a regular Deore/XT or any of the sealed hubs out there? How sealed are sealed (is there a range of quality?) and if they do get water in them how well can they run compared to conventional bearings with lots of grease?
#14
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: SE Penna., USA
Bikes: Too many! Santana tandems and triplet; MTBs; touring bikes
I think 32 spokes on a well-built 26" wheel is perfectly strong. I'm not the lightest guy and that's what I use on my 26" wheeled touring bike (I run 36 on my 700c bike). I'd stay with the XTR hub and 32 spokes if you already have the setup. Indeed, I have that very setup for my 26" wheeled bike, although I also just picked up a very nice set of White Industries hubs built with 32 spokes onto Bontrager rims and am running those now.
The big advantages, as others have noted about some of the higher-end cartridge-bearing hubs is the ability to easily disassemble the rear hub using nothing but two 5mm Allen wrenches (for the Phil, Hadley, and maybe others). Makes maintenance and spoke repair very easy. The cartridge bearings themselves are also handy.
The big advantages, as others have noted about some of the higher-end cartridge-bearing hubs is the ability to easily disassemble the rear hub using nothing but two 5mm Allen wrenches (for the Phil, Hadley, and maybe others). Makes maintenance and spoke repair very easy. The cartridge bearings themselves are also handy.
#15
just a thought for the group, if you were stuck in the boonies and your bike was dunked in 2' of water and the hubs flooded as the bike is dragged through a muddy ditch which set of bearings will cause you less problems, a regular Deore/XT or any of the sealed hubs out there? How sealed are sealed (is there a range of quality?) and if they do get water in them how well can they run compared to conventional bearings with lots of grease?
#16
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Joined: Feb 2001
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From: England
I have never heard of a Shimano axle , steel or alu breaking. The issue is diameter and bearing size.
At new style aluminium axle of XT/XTR takes 13x 3/16" bearings instead of the old standard of 9x 1/4"
This is smaller and subject to higher stress and wear.
Does anyone know if the freehub is the same design or has that been changed to accomodate a wider diameter axle? If so, how?
At new style aluminium axle of XT/XTR takes 13x 3/16" bearings instead of the old standard of 9x 1/4"
This is smaller and subject to higher stress and wear.
Does anyone know if the freehub is the same design or has that been changed to accomodate a wider diameter axle? If so, how?
#17
Bikaholic
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From: Western, Michigan
Bikes: Trek Fuel 90, Giant OCR, Rans Screamer Tandem
I vote for XT as the biggest bang for the buck. XT hubs will probably outlast XTR in a purely touring use but both will work well. In Shimano's MTB lineup, XT and XTR get boron coated bearing races in the hub. Boron is the second hardest substance on earth. A good well built set of 36 spoke wheels built with XT hubs and strong rims (ie. Mavic X717 or Velocity Aerohead or Synergy) will be almost indestructible when properly maintained. XTR, Phil Wood etc. may be incrementally better but all cost considerably more. You have the added benefit of the hubs using parts and technology that are so common that most any LBS can work on the bike if need be in some remote location. You can buy these hubs for less than half the price of an XTR with all of the same basic technology and only slightly heavier.
#18
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From: Western, Michigan
Bikes: Trek Fuel 90, Giant OCR, Rans Screamer Tandem
This is an everyday situation in mountain biking. XT would be just fine. What you need to do is regular maintenance, just like any other hub, and keep things properly lubricated. In general, hubs are mostly trouble free if used within their specs and maintained. For evidence, look at the number of beat up old mtb bikes around. It's the spokes and rims that go usually, not the hub.
#19
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I think the bigger bang would be in the kind of hub you have. The less dish the better, which starts to conflict with the latest designs out there. My M15 White hubs are pretty extreme. I'm building out some MA2 36 hole rims I have, and I am currently thinking of the Riv/Phil freewheel hubs, since I come from the freewheel generation, and the cassette hub advantage doesn't get me all excited, plus the spoke angles should be better.
The main advantage to the Phil was when Shimano had axle problems with their freewheel hubs. Having addressed that with cassette hubs, the current problem area is the cassette shell. Phil has addressed that, but the hubs are pretty heavy. Whites are cheaper and lighter, and have the Ti shells. You can also get better hubs from DT which uses the superior loose bearing model, but in a super hub, or there are Chris King hubs, which come from a great headset company.
Myself, I haven't even managed to break an LX freehub, which sorta sucks to the extent that I could then righteously stomp off and buy one of these super hubs for a real reason. At the moment, they are just nicer parts, not so far necessary. And in my case I was riding at near tandem loads on 700c...
The main advantage to the Phil was when Shimano had axle problems with their freewheel hubs. Having addressed that with cassette hubs, the current problem area is the cassette shell. Phil has addressed that, but the hubs are pretty heavy. Whites are cheaper and lighter, and have the Ti shells. You can also get better hubs from DT which uses the superior loose bearing model, but in a super hub, or there are Chris King hubs, which come from a great headset company.
Myself, I haven't even managed to break an LX freehub, which sorta sucks to the extent that I could then righteously stomp off and buy one of these super hubs for a real reason. At the moment, they are just nicer parts, not so far necessary. And in my case I was riding at near tandem loads on 700c...
#22
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Joined: May 2010
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I roll on Alexis world tourers (26"). They are fantastic, can handle a load, and are much stronger than the larger 700cc. You don't go as fast, but if you've got a ton of gear, you won't anyway. Plus they are moderately priced.
#23
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Joined: Jul 2010
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Phil. Nothing more need be said, but I will anyway. My mate and I have wheels with Phil Wood hubs that have had hundreds of thousands of trouble-free miles over very demanding terrain. When you want reliable, it is the only game in town.
#24
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From: Fife Scotland
Bikes: Airnimal Chameleon; Ellis Briggs; Moulton TSR27 Moulton Esprit
I've used XTR hubs on a 2500 mile tour while pulling a trailer and found that the largest rear sprocket bent under use. XTR seems to be designed to favour lightness and this sprocket was not solid enough for the job. XT has always been my favourite for heavy touring.



