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the switch from MTB to a touring frame.. LHT? CrossCheck? Geometry Difference?

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the switch from MTB to a touring frame.. LHT? CrossCheck? Geometry Difference?

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Old 10-27-04 | 06:19 AM
  #1  
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Bikes: M- 2000 Trek 7000zx ____ R- 1990 Trek 1000

the switch from MTB to a touring frame.. LHT? CrossCheck? Geometry Difference?

Hi,
What was the number 1 reason for you to switch from a MTB to a touring bike?
I have over 9000 miles on my Trek 7000 hardtail. i bought it looking for something fast and rugged, and for a variety of purposes (courier, touring, commuting, whipping the trails etc.) its gone through slicks and knobbys depending on my seasonal purposes. (Favorite tires on this bike are Specialized Nimbus)

so, even though i can be aggressive about what i do with my Trek (ride wherever i please), and it has been a solid, sturdy boogierocket, the reason im making the switch is because the "aggressive" riding position has been getting to my lower back for some time now, even with the upgrade of a steeper stem and riser bars
So ive learned alot about my riding style over the years and im looking for a more relaxed and comfortable upright but more aerodynamic riding position where I am NOT leaning on the bars in any way, just gripping them. i want a comfortable bike with big gears that can handle some bumps and bruises.

So im done riding the MTB on the roads and im serious aboutmaking this purchase very soon.
im choosing between the Surly X-check or the LH Trucker. does anyone knoe the geometry differences between these?
i want steeel. any suggestions i am open to.
thanks in advance

-=stevey
-=solewheelin is offline  
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Old 10-27-04 | 08:11 AM
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From: boston
Surly's website has the geometry. The biggest difference is the chainstay length. The LHT has a longer chainstay for paniers. It also has a longer head tube for a higher handlebar height. The Cross frame has a higher BB for dodging obstacles.
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Old 10-27-04 | 09:58 AM
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From: Thailand..........currently Nakhon Ricefield, moving to the beach soon.

Bikes: inferior steel....alas....noodly aluminium assploded

i would think any move to a road bike will be less relaxed and upright. for this reason,
it's more common to move to an mtb for comfort or lower back pain. you won't know
until you ride some demo models at your lbs. or you might try a new, longer fork...
add spacers instead of cutting to raise the hbar height.

have you considered a recumbent? aerodynamic, no stress on sitzbones or lower
back, and with underseat steering you can't lean on the bars in any way.
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Old 10-27-04 | 10:44 AM
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The riding position of some cross-country style MTBs is very aggressive, whilst some touring bikes have the bars pretty high and short. Riding position is not directly related to drop vs flat bars, but where you chose to put them in relation to the saddle.
With the modern selection of seatposts and stems, the position of points of contact (pedals/saddle/bars) is not so related to frame geometry as in The Olden Days.
The first order of business is to measure up your current points of contact and plot them (xy) in relation to the bottom bracket. For purposes of comparison, using [xy] coordinates resolves any differences of seat-tube angle and seatpost layback.
Once you know your current setup, decide where you really want points of contact to be, then you can select a frame that permits this without having extremes of post layback or stem size.
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