Fork, Rack and Fender Help
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 30
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From: North Tonawanda, NY
Bikes: Cannondale Six13, Soma Double Cross
Fork, Rack and Fender Help
I have a Soma Double Cross and the fork has 1 set of eyelets at the dropouts and threaded bosses half way up the fork blades. I have Planet Bike Fenders on the front and back. On the front the fenders use the eyelets at the dropouts and I was wondering if I will have any problems installing a front rack with only one set of eyelets?
I told my wife I wanted the Blackburn FL-1 Lo Rider Rack for christmas and I was looking at the installation instructions online and noticed that rack uses the eyelets where I have my fenders installed right now. If there is going to be a problem what are my options/
https://www.blackburndesign.com/black...144_manual.pdf
I told my wife I wanted the Blackburn FL-1 Lo Rider Rack for christmas and I was looking at the installation instructions online and noticed that rack uses the eyelets where I have my fenders installed right now. If there is going to be a problem what are my options/
https://www.blackburndesign.com/black...144_manual.pdf
#2
Cycle Dallas
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,776
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From: Land of Gar, TX
Bikes: Dulcinea--2017 Kona Rove & a few others
I would think that with a long enough screw, you could use the same eyelet for the rack and for the fender stay. Just put the fender stay between the rack and the fork.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: NE Tx
Bikes: Tour Easy, Linear USS, Lightening Thunderbolt, custom DF, Raleigh hybrid, Felt time trial
That's an excellent rack for panniers that don't require a positive locking mechanism. I've used one for years. I did grind off the little tabs that stick up above the top bar because they interferred with the hooks on my panniers. A positioning issue mostly.
Last edited by Cyclebum; 12-20-11 at 06:02 PM.
#4
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Joined: Nov 2004
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I have always heard that the rack strut should be against the eyelet with the fender strut mounted outside the rack strut. If there is a lot of weight on the rack, it does not stress the bolt as much. Here is another thread discussing this. I also use Loctite or nylock nuts when installing racks and such to help reduce things rattling loose.
Here's a quote from that thread
Here's a quote from that thread
Stainless steel M5 allen bolts are the usual solution.
The correct order, from the frame eyelet, outwards is:
Rack
Fender
Washer
Bolt.
If the rack is outside the fender, it has more leverage on the bolt and can over-stress and break the bolt.
Use a washer
Smear the threads of the bolt thinly with some grease (white lithium grease), or at least put a drop of oil on the threads.
On the drive side the bolt can protrude inwards and interfere with the chain. Add more washer or file off the end of the bolt. You need about 1-2 threads protruding to ensure full engagement of the bolt.
The correct order, from the frame eyelet, outwards is:
Rack
Fender
Washer
Bolt.
If the rack is outside the fender, it has more leverage on the bolt and can over-stress and break the bolt.
Use a washer
Smear the threads of the bolt thinly with some grease (white lithium grease), or at least put a drop of oil on the threads.
On the drive side the bolt can protrude inwards and interfere with the chain. Add more washer or file off the end of the bolt. You need about 1-2 threads protruding to ensure full engagement of the bolt.
Last edited by Ciufalon; 12-20-11 at 05:33 PM.
#5
Single eyelets are not a problem. Spacers are often required when mounting front racks,and it is easier and often make more sense to put the fender strut inboard of the rack mount. The spacers are required due to some rack designs and dropout configuration. Just make sure to keep the bolts tight. This is a SKS fender with the "break away" connector. My Tubus rack on my LHT has a 5-6mm spacer between the rack and the eyelet, otherwise something would have to bend to get the rack flush against the eyelet. The 3mm of fender stay between the rack and the drop out should not be an issue.






