Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Touring
Reload this Page >

Help with touring bike build

Notices
Touring Have a dream to ride a bike across your state, across the country, or around the world? Self-contained or fully supported? Trade ideas, adventures, and more in our bicycle touring forum.

Help with touring bike build

Old 10-08-12, 07:00 PM
  #26  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Ah, Where would one measure that? soon as I know I could do that for you. since we share the same frame...
Cyclist5463489 is offline  
Old 10-08-12, 08:04 PM
  #27  
Artificial Member
 
ahsposo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cyberspace
Posts: 7,159

Bikes: Retrospec Judd, Dahon Boardwalk, Specialized Langster

Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6811 Post(s)
Liked 5,519 Times in 3,251 Posts
If you've got a metric ruler you could tell me the width of the BB shell and the spread of the rear dropouts (inside).

Thanks.
__________________
ahsposo is offline  
Old 10-08-12, 09:13 PM
  #28  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ahsposo
If you've got a metric ruler you could tell me the width of the BB shell and the spread of the rear dropouts (inside).

Thanks.
What is the width measurement though? through or across the shell?
Cyclist5463489 is offline  
Old 10-08-12, 09:16 PM
  #29  
Full Member
 
GeorgeBaby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 362

Bikes: 2005 Bike Friday NWT, Bacchetta Giro 26, 2019 Titanium Bilenky Midlands

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by draig
What is the width measurement though? through or across the shell?
Width is in-line with the axle -- for most bikes, it should be either 68 or 73mm.
GeorgeBaby is offline  
Old 10-08-12, 09:22 PM
  #30  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
one last thing, would you want the wheel spacing in cm or mm? cause cm is 13.5 and mm 135.
BB comes out to 68mm
Cyclist5463489 is offline  
Old 10-08-12, 09:24 PM
  #31  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
oh, Oh, OH! I measured the wrong thing (doh) one moment I'll get the correct on for the dropout...

Turns out I did measure the right thing. it is 135mm spread for the dropouts

Last edited by Cyclist5463489; 10-08-12 at 09:27 PM. Reason: new info
Cyclist5463489 is offline  
Old 10-09-12, 05:52 AM
  #32  
Artificial Member
 
ahsposo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cyberspace
Posts: 7,159

Bikes: Retrospec Judd, Dahon Boardwalk, Specialized Langster

Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6811 Post(s)
Liked 5,519 Times in 3,251 Posts
Thanks for the info. You saved me a return with the wheels.
__________________
ahsposo is offline  
Old 10-09-12, 07:24 AM
  #33  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
No problem ^^ glad to help ya
Cyclist5463489 is offline  
Old 10-09-12, 09:22 AM
  #34  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,428

Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by draig
Turns out I did measure the right thing. it is 135mm spread for the dropouts
I think the spread is actually 132.5mm. Or at least it was when I bought the frame 2-3 years ago. I've used both road (130mm) and mountain (135mm) hubs with this frame.
sstorkel is offline  
Old 10-17-12, 05:25 AM
  #35  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
GAH! I was gonna order those Dimension Trekking bars later this evening just to find out their discontinued. Guess I'll just have to work with the Nashbar one irregardless
Cyclist5463489 is offline  
Old 10-19-12, 01:57 PM
  #36  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by fietsbob
I'm fine with the 2 types I use .. the bikes have Mountain bike brake levers
one has hydraulic brakes, and The Rohloff grip shifters..
that wont fit on a bar that is bigger than 22.2mm..

my setup the trekking bars are relatively flat, and I often use an open palm
laying across the ends, and not so much a grip like the baseball bat will
fly out of my hands , if I relax.
Does it matter what brand I get for trekking bars quality wise?
Cyclist5463489 is offline  
Old 10-19-12, 05:00 PM
  #37  
Senior Member
 
megalowmatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North County San Diego
Posts: 1,664
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
draig - how far along are you on your build? I would like to see some pictures
megalowmatt is offline  
Old 10-19-12, 05:34 PM
  #38  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by megalowmatt
draig - how far along are you on your build? I would like to see some pictures
Not to far actually, I got the frame, tires, stem, and rear rack. I'm gonna have to wait till the end of the month to pick up a fork. I prolly won't be actually putting much on it till later next month.

But, I will post pics as I get stuff put on it.
Cyclist5463489 is offline  
Old 10-19-12, 05:39 PM
  #39  
Senior Member
 
megalowmatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North County San Diego
Posts: 1,664
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by draig
Not to far actually, I got the frame, tires, stem, and rear rack. I'm gonna have to wait till the end of the month to pick up a fork. I prolly won't be actually putting much on it till later next month.

But, I will post pics as I get stuff put on it.
Sounds good. I built up one of those frames last year and it's a great bike.
megalowmatt is offline  
Old 10-19-12, 05:49 PM
  #40  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Coolness ^^ I can hardly wait to get started. I've been working on my shopping list (disguised as a wishlist on Amazon ) I got all of the required things on that list. I pulled my rear rack off my current bike (i use messanger bags and backpacks more, and will prolly get a trailer for utility use). I'm undecided of putting mirrors on backwards bar ends or helmet mounted rear mirror though... I'm used to both handlebar and helmet rear views (mircycle on my handlebar, Third eye helmet before) oh, the mount on the mirrcycle is in the tube of my handlebar (gotten from amazon I think)

Last edited by Cyclist5463489; 10-19-12 at 05:53 PM.
Cyclist5463489 is offline  
Old 10-21-12, 08:37 AM
  #41  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have another question for people here. I've looked into those Harris built wheels and their presta drilled, my prefference is shraeder drilled. any suggestions for 700c?
Cyclist5463489 is offline  
Old 10-21-12, 09:38 AM
  #42  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,428

Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
You can always buy the Presta wheels and enlarge the hole to fit a Schrader valve. I forget what size drill bit you need, but I'm sure someone here or in the Mechanics forum could tell you.
sstorkel is offline  
Old 10-21-12, 10:40 AM
  #43  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Pearland, Texas
Posts: 7,579

Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 308 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by draig
I have another question for people here. I've looked into those Harris built wheels and their presta drilled, my prefference is shraeder drilled. any suggestions for 700c?
Drilling out the hole is perhaps the best option. Another is to pick up a Schrader/Presta adapter at a bike shop.

Brad
bradtx is offline  
Old 10-21-12, 11:53 AM
  #44  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,303

Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.

Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3507 Post(s)
Liked 1,491 Times in 1,164 Posts
Originally Posted by draig
I've been looking around for cranks right now and cassettes but I'm getting myself confused. I know I'd want a tripe crank. Some of them say their only compatible with 10-speed is that the cassette? meaning it would wind up be 30 gears? or would that be a cassette of 5 rings (if they still make those)?

Also, I'm flip/flopping betwenn Sram and Shimano cranks. what's all your experiences with each?
They would not mean that it works with a 5 speed freewheel or cluster, they would be talking about a crankset that has chainrings that are thin enough that they work with the thinner chains that are sold as 10 speed chains.

I am using a Campy 10 speed crankset with an 8 speed Shimano cassette and 8 speed compatible chain. I used some thin washers to account for the thinner chainrings. I think I used Wheels Manufacturing washers (or spacers or shims or whatever you want to call them) instead of the ones at this link however, but that was several years ago so I could be wrong on my source for them.
https://branfordbike.com/itemdetails.cfm?id=808

I can't say with certainty that such washers are appropriate with other manufacturers of cranksets. But if you get a 10 speed crankset from a different manufacturer and it does not seem to work right with a thicker chain, try it.
Tourist in MSN is offline  
Old 10-21-12, 12:08 PM
  #45  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,357 Times in 863 Posts
I have another question for people here. I've looked into those Harris built wheels and their presta drilled, my prefference is shraeder drilled.
you can always buy the Presta wheels and enlarge the hole to fit a Schrader valve.
A tapered hand reamer works fine, ream till your stem fits.

Found drilling has a significant de burring, with a rat-tail file .. to clean up the hole edges.
hand reamer may take less clean-up.

Last edited by fietsbob; 10-21-12 at 12:12 PM.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 10-21-12, 12:23 PM
  #46  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,357 Times in 863 Posts
Does it matter what brand I get for trekking bars quality wise?
If you are in the $20 or thereabouts price range,
they are all similar , some are finished ,
Black or Clear anodized, a few dye the anodizing. [vs paint]

ITM and Modolo are Italian Imports , sourcing those in the US
may need direct retail importation from Europe
BBB is a NL company , they have a wholesaler, Bike Mine, in OKC
Your Local shop would need to open an account.

Wall Bike's stock is sold-out , several years ago, I got some Koga ITM. bars from them .
fietsbob is offline  
Old 10-21-12, 07:03 PM
  #47  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Tourism, that was clarified to me awhile ago, thanks anyways. I now know what I'll be getting drivetrain wise ^^
fietbob, coolness! I won't have to get more tools, I got something that may work as a reamer. and I can get ahold of a file I think for cleanup. I'd rather punch a larger hole than get an adapter.

Also, I was undecided as to the Nashbar trekking ones or the black ones at Harris. I think I'll get Harris though (next month.)

Update too. tomorrow after I put this pay (from day work) on my CC I'll be ordering that Nashbar fork.

Oh btw, fietbob. which way would you suggest I ream from. inside the rim outwards or the other way around?

Last edited by Cyclist5463489; 10-21-12 at 07:06 PM.
Cyclist5463489 is offline  
Old 10-23-12, 12:06 AM
  #48  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,441
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 3 Posts
Inside out is better. At the end of the day, it needs to be clean all around, but any burrs you push out are easier to deal with on the outside, and if you happened to miss something, it would better if it was on the outside.

If you have the right rat tail file you can twist it, even run it in a drill, and it will naturally act like a proper reamer. However, files are hard so do not shatter it, a lot of oil would be a good idea if you run it slowly under power, and wear face protection, etc...

Hey, were are the dang picture. I just got one of the frames at a price that is cheaper than powder coating one of my own builds. I have been without a touring frame, and with a huge pile of parts for too long. I have ogled "this" frame for like 30 years, so it will be fun, and then I will probably pass the frame on. When I get the next build done. I am going to do some serious measurements, and list them in the review section at Nashbar, it is pretty amazing how bad their numbers are. A big one they have always hidden was the BB drop. I finally got that up (it is so high you could run this on 26" wheel if you could run the brakes.) Then they changed the frame, and back to the drawing board. If you are running something other than the 58, you might give some thought to putting up more numbers also. Only takes a few minutes.

Last edited by MassiveD; 10-23-12 at 12:13 AM.
MassiveD is offline  
Old 10-23-12, 06:19 AM
  #49  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by MassiveD
Inside out is better. At the end of the day, it needs to be clean all around, but any burrs you push out are easier to deal with on the outside, and if you happened to miss something, it would better if it was on the outside.

If you have the right rat tail file you can twist it, even run it in a drill, and it will naturally act like a proper reamer. However, files are hard so do not shatter it, a lot of oil would be a good idea if you run it slowly under power, and wear face protection, etc...

Hey, were are the dang picture
. I just got one of the frames at a price that is cheaper than powder coating one of my own builds. I have been without a touring frame, and with a huge pile of parts for too long. I have ogled "this" frame for like 30 years, so it will be fun, and then I will probably pass the frame on. When I get the next build done. I am going to do some serious measurements, and list them in the review section at Nashbar, it is pretty amazing how bad their numbers are. A big one they have always hidden was the BB drop. I finally got that up (it is so high you could run this on 26" wheel if you could run the brakes.) Then they changed the frame, and back to the drawing board. If you are running something other than the 58, you might give some thought to putting up more numbers also. Only takes a few minutes.
I'm waiting to get some things on the frame to take pictures, like i said before. I'll do so when I get my headset. that way it's more than just loose parts. And I also got the 58 frame, plus I don't know how to measure the things.

Hope your build goes well MassiveD. I ordered my fork yesterday and expect it Thursday. and I'll be ordering that headset tomorrow (don't know when it'll arrive.
Cyclist5463489 is offline  
Old 10-24-12, 07:26 AM
  #50  
Banned.
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Update on my build. I'm going to my LBS today and getting a headset this afternoon, my fork isn't expected till Monday though. I'll take and post a pic after I get the front end set up.
Cyclist5463489 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.