I have heard that bunging things on the rack is really not the best so I am going to make a couple of adjustable straps for my husband and I for our racks, but I really don't know the best length to make them. I have 60 ins of strapping and was just going to cut it in two, but that seems a bit long.

So, those of you who use a strap (front or back) what is the best length to make these things? We don't have any plans to strap anything on the racks long term as all our stuff fits inside our panniers. These will be used for misc. things and maybe some extra supplies at times.

Thanks for your help.

I use sleeping bag straps https://www.campmor.com/sleeping-bag-straps.shtml?source=CI&ci_sku=23034WC&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword** and recently found these and like them https://www.lowes.com/pd_40898-388-90...aps&facetInfo=

I understand that you want to make them but for the price these straps can't be beat...I found my bag straps at a local outdoor store.

bad link: the straps are Coughlans.

I also saw these @ REI https://www.rei.com/product/813836/re...release-buckle

I don`t know how you`re making strapping, but isn`t strap infinitely adjustable from neary zero up to its full length? Just tie up any excess to keep it out of trouble. I use lengths of clothes line and do that if I switch to a smaller load before the previous line is worn out.

if the straps are webbing, just order some appropriately sized ladderlocks and they'll be easy to adjust without any special knots or ties.

You could put a piece of velcro tape on the side of your panniers and the other bit on the end of the strap to keep it out of the spokes if you're worried about the loose end.

Get a hair tie if you need to bunch it up and are constantly changing the size. Easier than tying it off.

Bungies are a bit too elastic to hold bigger loads over rougher ground. I used a couple of inner tubes and they lasted for many months. I just knotted them and it didn't cause any problems. You have to be a bit creative with lashing to get the most effective pattern.

these here net bungees you find at motersickel shops work well to hold large or
odd-shaped loads...........

https://compare.ebay.com.au/like/3307...PriceItemTypes

I use two 40 inch adjustable straps, running front to back, to attach stuff sacks to the top of my rack. They are a little long, in that role, so I wrap them under themselves to prevent dangling. They double as carry straps for my panniers. I've also used them in various configurations around my campsite (e.g. as a tree-wrap attachment point).

Just my opinion but, I think straps aren't really that great for the kind of impromptu loads that you describe. I wouldn't bother with them unless they are used on a regular basis. You might consider just taking some parachute cord or something similar.

I do carry para-cord for food hanging and clothes line duties. The strapping context I'm talking about is secondary use only. I don't bring straps unless they are needed for everyday use on my rack. They can be more convenient than long para-cord when a short length would suffice.

yep these are great for touring. they allow you to strap all manner of odd shaped stuff as a temporary or semi permanent load. they're fast to get on and off and surprisingly stable. at times i've strapped down my helmet, food / water, tent etc i like to strap down damp clothing to dry out in the sun and wind too.

They sure look useful. I`ve been tempted for quite a while (would be great for carrying a gallon of milk or a 12-pack home). I`ll probably eventually buy one to add to the pile of "once-in-a-while" crap in my closet

Depends a lot on what your maximum-sized loads will be like. I've found it better to have a little extra. It weighs almost nothing and is easy to manage.

Side-release buckles make things much easier. I like using these much more than using the thread-through units. Mountaineering shops and departments sell them, and I'm sure you can find them online.

You can still adjust the length once they are installed. It isn't a fixed length system.

Some are better than others. Fastex is a good brand, and there are others. Avoid cheap knock-offs. REI has sometimes had cheapo Chinese ones that just don't work as well, feel cheap, and don't last like the others. You might pay slightly more, but it's worth it to get the good ones.

I have found it to be much much better to have these straps a little longer than necessary than a little shorter than necessary.

Have you considered a cargo net?

Seems the length you need is dictaed by the size of what you might strap. A bundle of firewood is going to require longer straps than a bottle of wine.

You can employ some basic geometry (e.g,. 2 xPi x r=circumferance of a circle) to get a rough idea of what a strap length can accomodate.

Personally, I use bungees for my tent on the rear and store-bought compression staps with locks on them for my sleeping bag on the front rack. Don't know how long the latter are. The bungees I have used for firewood and for runs to the grocery store where I have put some items in my sleeping bag stuff sack.

I got Double ended buckles .. they work with a loop of webbing , and both ends are pulled through.
neither are sewn .. so how long can be situational , as long as you need ..


double adjustable ladder-lock shown here: https://www.seattlefabrics.com/ladder.html

I know bungee cords are not popular here, but Ive used them without problem. https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/11264 plenty of rough roads. I never got them in my spokes, so it's what ever works IMO

A tube cut off both sides of the stem makes a nice long stretchy tie down and will also work as a hose if you find a water valve and need a wash down. You can cut it up as required and make bands and stuff out of it. and its free.

+1

I used them when I was courier hauling cargo to lash down bankers boxes of documents to my racks. That's 48 pounds of paper when full, and although they were never quite completely full I often had two on the rear rack and one on the front. Two bungees per box was enough to hold them securely through the hills of Seattle. I still use bungees when touring to secure my pillow, tent, and sleep pad across the deck created by my bucket panniers and rear rack. I also carry a couple of bungee nets and a couple more bungees for securing food/beer/firewood to the front deck on occasion while touring as well.

As much as I like bungee nets for some things, I don't feel that they are as secure as regular bungees. They are harder to get really tensioned down and even when they are pretty tight, don't seem to hold a load as well as two bungee cords. They are great for lightweight loads, or for reining in oddly shaped loads, and I feel are an essential tool to have as a supplement to regular bungees.

Just always get plastic hooked bungees and bungee nets. The wire hooks can really injure you if they pop free while you are trying to secure or remove them. I don't know what the benefit of the motorcycle specific nets are, are they bigger than the bicycle ones? Because a couple different companies make bicycle specific bungee nets with plastic hooks. If you do use wire hooks, make sure you've got some sort of eye protection on while manipulating them!

I will say that the effectiveness of bungees can be affected by the design of the rack. If there aren't a few different places to secure them it makes it real hard to get them tensioned properly. I've sought out racks that had places to secure both bungees and the leather straps I also use, but at times you still have to be creative in wrapping the bungee around some parts multiple times to use up some excess length and get it tensioned.

Back when I was motorcycle commuting I always had 2 of those and two cords. Between them there was almost nothing I couldn't strap down. Even a tv on the back of the tandom seat. Very useful tools.

Long straps with a free end can be cut to right length. Heat the end with a lighter to stop fringing.

Careful not to let a loose bungee get caught in a spoke when you ride off!

You might consider using shock cord. I know a lot of folks think they are unstable, but I have fonnd them to be as stable as straps. I've used shock cord fasteners (bungee cords), and have had no trouble with them. There are no wobble or bouncing issues.

These 2 shock cords have gone over 10,000 miles. I made them, bought the cord, and hooks, in 2007, and have used them on every trip since then.

Part of the route during this tour took us over 400 miles of unpaved roads and trails, and over 500 miles of cobblestone roads. They hold the load stable during minor, and even some not so minor crashes.


Different bike (below) on an earlier trip, but the same 2 bungee cords. It is amazing how much can fit under those cords. In this case my rack pack, a ruined tire looking for a trash bin, the tent poles, and my running shoes. They are made from 1/4" high quality shock cord.


My wife and I carry a 1/2" nylon strap that we call our "ferry straps". These are used to secure the bikes on ferries and trains, It is about 5' long with side lock buckles. If you are going to use nylon straps I'd recommend side lock buckles over ladder lock buckles.

Note red nylon strap going around the top tube, and over to the side of the ferry- the ferry strap. You will also notice straps connecting all the bikes together, and holding them securely to the ferries rail. This shows my bike, and my wife's and 2 daughter's bikes. My wife and one daughter use the shock cord "net, and our other daughter and I use the shock cord bungees.

P.S. You may also be able to see the velcro straps holding pressure on the brake levers. This acts as a parking brake which is very useful for parking on slopes, ferries and trains


My wife prefers this commercially produced "net" bungee contraption. It has worked well for her. It is flexible, and holds her rack pack securely. She usually carries her running shoes under her rackpack pack. I think it might have been raining this day, and she put them inside a pannier or her rackpack.

I borrowed her bungee net to get this 25 pound package, a part for my table saw, home from the post office. It handled this awkward and unwieldy load (the box was not balanced) pretty well.

+ 1

Yea REI has Shock cord By the Foot... one discovery.. great way to make the end of a piece
of shock cord, finished;

hot melt glue and electrical, heat shrink tubing.
there are adhesive lined versions of the heat shrink tubing too..

Climbing cord or paracord (or any polyester cord) is about as inexpensive/simple as you can get.

Lash down stuff on bike, guy tent/tarp, hang food, make clothes line, attach bag/pad to backpack.

As stated in #20, be sure to secure excess so it doesn't get into rotating wheel.

I've got a couple straps that I use for random utility stuff. They're 1" polypropylene webbing, with a side release buckle. Were I taking them touring, I'd get buckles that inter operated with the ones on my panniers. One side of the buckle has a ladder lock. One stays on the rack of my commuter and helps keep my lock from rattling. The other lives in basket of my beater utilty bike. The one on the commuter was made from about 2' of webbing, the one in the basket was maybe three. They're shorter than that, of course, because the buckle is sewn on at one end, and the opposite end is folded over twice to keep it from coming out of the buckle.

I don't use them a huge amount to attach loads, but they're handy enough to keep around. The other thing they're very useful for is holding the front wheel of the bike to the frame, when the bike is on a car rack, or the work stand. Also useful for keeping a brake lever applied, while you adjust the cable. Thigs like that.