Bike Forums - Bike build

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Flog00 (Post 16495636)

Yeah, I get it.

But he is the guy I want. Small time, living the dream and a good family man. I have no issue with his price. Is it too much? Probably.... but I live very conservatively so I can splurge on this a bit :)

Scott

Scott fair play to you i see where you coming from, ah its going to be a dream bike for sure the very best of luck with it i really didn't mean to be negative .:thumb:

Flog00, Should be a stunner! Please keep the photos coming.

Brad

WOW...

and that is all I can say...

WOW...

Oh hell just get a collection of tires and jackets for conditions. You've already got it all.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flog00 (Post 16495636)

The real joy with your new bike will be, of course, changing everything over the years. I would go with nice, but not "boutique" nice parts everywhere and then replace things as you see fit. For instance, get some cheap(er) drop bars and splurge on Titanium bars once you're sure where you want your hand positions. Etc...

Everybody has their ideas of what makes a great tourer. To my mind, the main thing is make it comfortable. As you are having a custom built frame you are half way there!

I've toured for years on a custom built 531c frame with front (lowrider) and rear Blackburn racks. Originally I had a BB dynamo and thought about hub, but decided to rely on battery lights. Deprending on what type of touring you do, you may never need a front light (a rear is always a good idea), but a nice light bright battry light covers most eventualities and can double as a torch.

Since swapping my Campag record hubs to another bike I've used Hope cartridge bearing hubs with butted spokes into Mavic A719 rims. 700c as the tyres can be found (for me) all over mainland Europe.

Drop bars with under tape gel padding. If you can get Randonneur style (which kick up a bit before the hoods, they are comfy and allow lots of hand positions.

Brooks saddle (natch!)

I use a Shimergo set up (9sp Campag mechs on 8sp Shimano cassette) allied to a Stronglight Triple with 46-36-28 rings. Ergo works well as when touring I'm never really on the drops.

I wouldn't go for ultra high end consumables (like h/set or B/B). I've had a mix over the years Tange, FSA, and now use Campag H/set (Chorus) and, after years of Campag BB, have changed to Shiman UN 55.

If you do a lot of miles you will wear things out/break them. My bike is on its 8th or 9th BB, 4th Headset and 4th or 5th Crankset. Loads of rings and rims! The only original bits from my original build in 1984 are the frame (and that has had additional braze ons and just had its second respray), the bars (stem change as original fractured) and the seatpost.

Lucky man! I hope you love the bike.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GamblerGORD53 (Post 16481085)

Tensioners/ Creaky klutzy EBBs ???? Get serious. A horrible idea for where 3/4 of dirt and rust goes.
Track dropouts or don't bother.

SO Gord53, what R'off bike do you own .. ? I have this one WB Bicycle Gallery: Robert Clark's Koga Miyata WTR I bought Used.

nothing Klutzy about it. and being Aluminum it won't rust.

the Way R&E does the EBB seems best, Tout terrain seems well done too .. Not many tandems dont have an EBB up front.

Looks like the OP has made their Commitment. in the meantime. and went for a derailleur drivetrain, so Be It.

Please Caption the pictures , what is that ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by fietsbob (Post 17226328)

Please Caption the pictures , what is that ?

Cable routing to front disc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Pringle (Post 16481909)

I would suggest to keep it beautiful and simple, esp. if you already chose a builder. A derailleur drivetrain is super efficient, lighter, simple and a LOT less expensive than a Rohloff IGH. You're also not stuck with a proprietary system that very few people in the world know how to fix, although they seem to be super durable. I would consider a Rohloff IGH maybe if I were going around the world where that type of drivetrain might have some merits. Also, I would only go with a Rohloff-approved builder who has tenths of these under his belt or else you might be in for a disappointment. As mentioned, Rohloff can be tricky to be set up.

If money is not much of a concern:

* Tomii Frame - I like the touch of C&V of Tomii frames with flat top tubes. Is that what you're trying to achieve -- a beautiful C&V look? First time I hear of him, but overall I like his work. His frames look like they are TIG welded. Lugs or fillet would be even more awesome. Some builders can do amazing paint jobs that incorporate faux lugs. Those could be a nice alternative.

* Wheelset - Chris K. nailed it. Velocity for beautiful silver rims. White Industries hubs are gorgeous, roll super smoothly and less expensive than Phil Wood's. But if money is no issue, Phil Wood! :) I know 650b is becoming more popular, but I really question their usefulness, especially for international touring to various countries due to the lack of replacement tires and parts. 700c or 26" would be my only personal choices for a touring bike.

* Drivetrain - There is nothing more beautiful than Campagnolo, IMHO. Unfortunately, they are not great for touring. I would definitely use their ergo shifters (so comfortable!) for touring in combination with Sram/Shimano drivetrain. There are some tricks to make this combo work because they're not naturally compatible.

* Handlebars are very subjective, but for a classic look and comfort nothing beats Nitto handlebars, esp. the Noodle or Randonneur.

Extras to consider:
* S&S couplers - Take your bike anywhere in the world
* Honjo "hammered" fenders
* Lots of polished silver touches: stem, seat post
* Leather saddle: Brooks, Gilles Berthoud
* Brakes: Paul Components for the best in aesthetics and function when it comes to rim brakes

We did a similar C&V touring build last year. We went with R&E Cycles (AKA Rodriguez Bikes) in Seattle. We settled with 26" wheels due to what I mentioned above (worldwide availability) and so much easier to pack in S&S case for air travel.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq9...etrorando2.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq9...trorando12.jpg

Really beautiful! Among the most elegantly put together bikes I've seen here at Bikeforums. It's both beautiful and highly functional, bravo!

I'm confused --> you're taking pictures while your custom bike is being built?

They are from the builder.

Yah Bob, too bad we didn't make a Rohloff sale here eh. Mine is a 700c custom build totally of my design, for function and brute strength. It has track DIY dropouts also. Turned into a Franken bike like no other. I started it with a SA 5w and then switched it to the Rohloff. It was stiff for 2000 miles, but it goes better and quieter every day. Weight matters diddly to it. The skinny cogs do suck tho, I have to get a SA 1/8 cog on it.

The bikes in this thread are pretty out of the box for sure.

Disc brakes on a curved fork, OP ??
I hope you aren't considering a cartridge headset. They didn't pan out for me at all, it's an 1 1/8 threaded however.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GamblerGORD53 (Post 17227225)

I hadn't really though about the fork/brakes? My Jamis Aurora Elite has curved fork and BB7 disc brakes. No trouble.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flog00 (Post 17227483)

I hadn't really though about the fork/brakes? My Jamis Aurora Elite has curved fork and BB7 disc brakes. No trouble.

My guess is the Jamis' forks have some device to prevent the axle being pulled from the fork under braking. It maybe a shroud, an extra aggressive set of "lawyer's lips" or some other device. Whether the fork is curved or not is not really the issue. Forks designed for disk brakes generally are more rigid and may have a thicker walled tube or a larger diameter tube on the rotor's side. More recently a through bolt design has been used and may become more popular in the future.

You may want to discuss axle retention with your builder if he hasn't provisioned for this.

Brad

Wow, that's really some metal work. I wish I knew how to do that. lol

For rims, I'd go with Sun Rhyno Lite. They may be cheaper than Velocity and Mavic, but some have said they rode a tandem with them without breaking them.

For a front light, I'd go with a Busch & Muller Eyc even though some people may choose a more expensive model. I read it has the beam of a higher-priced model.

I'd also go with bar-end shifters. If you want to go with an 8 speed drivetrain, I'd choose a Sugino XD 600. I received these Dimension drop handlebars but I haven't tried them yet: http://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...-groove-silver
I also got gel for it which I haven't tried yet either.

I have not tried Paul brakes but I'm a big fan of the Avid Shorty Ultimate and its easily adjustable tensioning. I also think it might be possible to have canti posts positioned so that either 26" or 650B wheels are supportable on the same build.

[Oops. Disc brakes already chosen. Feel free to delete this post.]

technically, The ones on aluminum forks have the steel posts screw in, so you need to have several bases welded in, to screw the brake posts into.

[MENTION=20478]dbg[/MENTION] I was really torn on the brakes, I finally followed my builders wishes and went disc. I think either choice was good.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbg (Post 17236785)